Caligari

I am speaking here on behalf of my client. Mr. Oud asked me to tell you the following:

My annoyance, not only at the mere mention, but at the fact that my name has also been prefixed with the adjective "Pure", is hereby firmly expressed. To speak of "pure oud", and then to put me as a representative of the natural ingredients yet two chemicals forcibly to the side, is not only unpleasant, but reputation-damaging.

I am in no way dependent on the accompaniment of such substances and find the defendant's conduct not only misleading but ingredientist. I can alone provide for the notes prosaically embellished in your advertisement, if only you had given me the proper freedom to do so.

Not only do you boast of including me in a concentration of 10% on your website. No, you actually still possess the audacity to speak of an "immoderate dose" (=measurable dose) with this portion. Those artisan artists who extract me from the wood with much effort and love in lengthy procedures, let me come into my own in high-quality oud fragrances with proportions of up to 30%. And they have it thereby not necessary such procedure still with the word "Pure" to apostrophize, but simply let me speak to the noses.

You harness me as a draught horse before your advertising campaign wagon and nevertheless do not consider it necessary me, or at least my provenance to describe adequately and thus burden the unsuspecting buyers with a high risk. In view of the currently called selling price of the equivalent of about € 1,250 per flacon, I do not find this responsible.

For the above reasons, I distance myself expressly from the product "Pur Oud | Louis Vuitton".

08.05.2021
Oud

Oud Advocate's After Note:
In fact, the fragrance is for a niche brand (watch out!!! I'm specifically not talking about Artisan or Independent brands here, in whose hands oud actually remain and is very likely to be processed much more appropriately and to a higher quality) is not bottomlessly bad. I would compare it with "The Spirit of Dubai - Baz | Nabeel". It's quite animalic, but not barnyard. Then it gets woody and unfortunately a bit soapy, which might be due to those awful notes Helvetolide®, Ambrettolide. It would be like painting a finely sanded cross-section of beautifully grained root wood opaque with grey acrylic paint. What, just in view of the price very aggravating is the astronomical price, which is certainly paid in large part just for the name.

Who is looking for an old oak table made of solid wood, should not try that at a very large Scandinavian furniture store and also at least check whether it is also pure oak.

Lovers of flowerless and largely fruitless, rather dark fragrances often ask themselves what this "oud" is, which is so often indicated as an ingredient in fragrances. And to answer the question, especially in view of the fact that in the vast majority of fragrances oud is not even present in natural form concrete, would be like giving a catchy answer to the question "How does wine taste?"

Oud includes not only a huge spectrum of very different manifestations, but also within an oil many different notes show up in different strength, duration, frequency and connection with other notes. Who would like to experience a wide range of my favorite notes that occur in real oud oils, is welcome to join me on the journey with and in "Tanoishi".

Like so many ouds, "Tanoishi" is largely built around the theme of "woodiness". What a wonder, these oils were after all "born" in the wood. And like most oud oils also "Tanoishi" runs with time from dark to light. This is certainly also due to the diminishing radiance. Whereas good oud oils are very persistent and not infrequently far longer than 24 hours detectable.

"Tanoishi" starts off dully woody, slightly animalic with little smoke and a spike of essential resins that get deep in your nose. More and more of those ethereal streaks of medium green permeate the dark brown wood and dissipate. What remains is a piece of rutted old root rotting in the morass of a shady forest lake.

A short phase, reminiscent of damp wood chips and tart leather, follows and initiates the unstoppable brightening. The wood now turns red. Further ethereal swaths now evoke associations with red wine at the bottom of an old wooden barrel. With the fragrance, which reminds of a mixture of plum jam and wine, the participation of fruits is completed for the time being.
For it follows the middle section of dark woody, powerful oud, as I can not describe it otherwise by now, so unique is this fragrance. In this stage of metamorphosis, the fragrance lingers for a long time before a further lightening occurs. Honey and toasty aromas from the toasty crust of a black bread join in.

Before the scent ends with a mesh of drier light wood, some dried fruit and medium leather, notes of sherry and whiskey barrels keep coming up in the transitional period.
I think that now many understand from the account why oud is the only ingredient that is included on Parfumo for itself as a fragrance.

How I got the fragrance - A little digression:
The sadness that Koishi, of which I have a sample and which had so swept me off my feet, was no longer available, was followed by the joy of a souvenir from PallasCC. She contacted, unbeknownst to me, just Adam from EO. He recommended her the at least 95% identical Tanoishi which she then gave me on the occasion of our little oud festival. Thank you dear PallasCC, the great Oud expert ♥.

As someone who has already enjoyed some ouds, one assumes a certain woodiness (perpetual) and leatheriness (often after many hours). What presents itself here, however, is a pleasant surprise.

One is received by an earthy plum jam. These are the fruits, which have fallen voluntarily from the tree before overripe and then connect there with the humus. After only a few minutes, one is carried to iridescent darker brown tones, which remind of the grain of acacia wood and evoke the association of burnt caramel and mahogany by roasting aromas.

Only after further hours, a return to the initial fruitiness takes place. The haze of dark red wine on the rutted bottom of an old oak barrel wafts up until it has evaporated. Then this barrel is carried out of the cellar and placed in the sun to dry. The wood releases the ferments of the wine and increasingly reveals itself, accompanied by a hint of honey.

This precious organic oud upends most notions of oud without betraying the general grandeur of its "strain". It behaves like a heavy, natural perfume with all the reds and browns you could ever want. Unlike most ouds I've been able to test, this noble drop lacks almost any roughness. It is always silky, oily and smooth. Unique, what nature is able to unite in only one ingredient. For the replication by human hands will remain unattainable.

Many thanks to PallasCC for this wonderful journey and expansion of fragrance horizons. ♥

The (only at first) silent and slow breeder. For "Chinese Oud" you need time. He's great, but he doesn't show you that right away. And maybe not the first time and then certainly not as a small test spot on the arm.

I'm certainly no oud-head but I've had my fair share of things under my trunk. I admit, I could do with the notes also nix and had my concerns. And then this hype before the sales launch. I don't like that much either. But here it is now first about the fragrance.
The top note wears its name rightly in this case. She bumps pretty much in front of the head. The oud is there, but considerably "denigrated" by the citrus, I want to say. And then something happens that I very rarely experience like this. "The discovery" (in the truest sense of the words) of the oud. It slowly works its way up. And it's the increasing strength of this note that makes you realise its content. It's one of those rare cases where the scent gets stronger as it goes on (even to a certain degree, of course - but still atypical). Never does it remain alone, but it becomes more and more clearly exposed. The rose remains until the end. However, falls silent according to its placement in the pyramid. Sandalwood and vanilla smooth the already not rabid oud, while patchouli counteracts this smoothing somewhat.

It is and remains a calmer and smoother oud, but about the fourth hour one recognizes the real quality and also strength of this extract.

The many souk appearances of "Chinese Oud" in recent weeks let me speculate that the expectations were disappointed, or the patience was not enough.

Even though it is one of the quieter ones in my collection, I feel very comfortable with it. Especially since there are simply not very many well-made, but especially natural oud fragrances. This one counts without a doubt among them.

PS: After 24 hours, especially in the clothes, a magnificent oud experience.

So, take your time!

This is probably the best oud fragrance I've ever smelled. And HJ dares to do something by not making any concessions for any oud.... ... Sensitivities. The oud used here is quite animalic and comes out clearly. It is flattered and supported throughout by the other notes, which do a fabulous job of not drawing too much attention to themselves. Only the Lader draws more clearly, which should be in view of the name component "Imperial" also so, without distracting too much from the oud.

A dream of a fragrance, which should be in view of 75 to 90 € retail price per milliliter. Who wants to order the 30 ml bottle at Harrods, should hurry, because they only have one left. And before hurrying please have the approx. 2,215 € ready.

Many thanks to Niklas1993 for the opportunity so what great times to test.