Carlitos01Carlitos01's Perfume Reviews

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01/23/2020
7 Awards
My affection for this perfume has grown in the past few months and it may evolve to an addiction. Curiously I started to appreciate more the similar fragrances of Swiss Arabian "Shaghaf Oud Abyad" and Ard Al Zaafaran "Midnight Oud", for their roughness and aggressivity. "Interlude Man" now wins for its sheer performance, in particular its durability.
This fragrance is what we can very well call a "full-bodied perfume". And like all bodies, it has a skeleton. In the interlude, the structural bones are made of incense. There is a rich aroma of penetrating incense at all stages of development. Almost intoxicating but in a good way!
The spicy opening already reveals the Incense frame; than it gets a bit sweeter as time passes, but also ambery and resinous. Later on it becomes woodier, darker, smokier - clearly the nicest phase for me. It dries down slowly, with earthy twists, keeping some of the previous darkness, but also very smooth and comfortable as not being in a hurry to fade away.
The performance is very very high. Interlude Man is definitely a beast in how long it lasts. Three sprays are good for twelve hours or more, while the maximum sillage, even if it's not as impressive, is well above eight feet and may fill a small room shadowing the other scents. It projects for three hours or even a bit more.
Another astonishing fact is that it really endures through the cold. Now - mid January in Lisbon - I may spray myself in the morning, go through the entire day outdoors, and still keep its warming scent by the fireplace at night.
How can I rate this Middle East treasure?
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Scent Opening:..........9,5 (very good blast of spices and incense)
Scent Drydown:........10.0 (marvelous smooth long woody resinous dark drydown)
Longevity:..................10.0 (cmore than 12 hours in my skin, with 3 sprays)
Sillage:.........................9.0 (8+ feet sillage with 3.5 hours projection)
Uniqueness:...............8.5 (not many similar scents but other arab perfume houses like Ard Al Zafaaran, Nabeel and Swiss Arabian, do make similar scents)
Wearability:................8.0 (just avoid hot weather)
Versatility:..................8.0 (go easy on the trigger and you will have an unexpected versatility mainly during the drydown)
Compliments:............7.5 (You will fright away all fresh, airy, citrusy and aquatic perfume adicts)
Quality:......................10.0 (well above average quality ingredients and performance)
Presentation:.............9.0 (Elegant and discreet... and heavy)
Price:...........................5.5 (usually €175.00 for the 100 ml flask).
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Overall rating: 8,68/10.00
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion: The price rating is the main cause for the overall rating being inferior to 9. This is one fantastic oriental fragrance for the lovers of incense, darkness, woods, oud and spices.
Recommended? It depends on your budget or in the way you value perfumes. If your taste is similar to mine, it's a clear yes. But watch out for the a lot more inexpensive but very good alternatives.
Blind buy worthy? Not really due to the high price, Try it first.

Music: Maurice Ravel - "Bolero".


01/20/2020
5 Awards
La Nuit de L'Homme puzzles me wirth its wide acceptance. For me it's a fragrance with polarized features with a lot of pluses and a lot of minuses. Let me explain you all my [+] and [-]:

[ + ]
- Very sexy! Unquestionably ladies like this fragrance and notice men who wear it.
- The flask is very simple and quite attractive.
- Within the perfume brand elite trio, the YSL brand attracts more young people than Chanel or Dior and has a broader market and acceptance.
- Within the perfume brand elite trio, the YSL brand may be considered the most affordable.
- I just know 4 perfumes thay may be considered an atemptive look a like of La Nuit de l'Homme; Other hits like Dior Sauvage and Bleu de Chanel have a million clones.
- The cardamom note is outstanding and it is maybe the best cardamom in any of my perfumes of my collection.
- Extremely eclectic and versatile. Perfect for the office.
[ - ]
- Still more expensive than other designer fragrances I prefer. It's also more expensive than other YSL perfumes i like a lot more like Kouros or Opium.
- The current batches are shamefully diluted. Is it pure greed? .. or is it to make it more elegant and discreet? ... or was it made on purpose to make the perfume easier to use and prevent a gentleman from disturbing the surrounding ladies? Well, I prefer the older batches!
- Be prepared to respray a lot.
- It is not really a unique perfume, because it was massively commented and broadcast on Youtube. Everyone has a bottle (or two).
- It lacks a real EdP concentration flanker. The two perfumes "Intense" and "Le Parfum" lauched as flankers with an EdP concentration, have different notes, a different scent, and I consider them just different perfumes.

Let's rate this cardamom manly potion:
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Scent Opening:.........9,5 (very good fresh cardamom blast)
Scent Drydown:........8.0 (soft sweet drydown)
Longevity:..................6.0 (close to 5 hours in my skin, with 3 sprays)
Sillage:........................6.0 (4 feet sillage with 1.5 hours projection; it performs better on clothes)
Uniqueness:..............7.5 (not many similar scents but everyones knows it and uses it)
Wearability:...............8.5 (just avoid extreme cold or extremely hot weather)
Versatility:.................8.0 (go heavy on the trigger and you will have an unexpected versatility but never for a long time)
Compliments:..........10.0 (a ladies natural pleaser, both young and mature)
Quality:......................7.5 (above average quality ingredients but shameful performance)
Presentation:............9.0 (Elegant and discreet)
Price:..........................6.5 (usually €75.00 for the 100 ml flask + taxes + shipping).
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Overall rating: 7,86/10.00
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion: A bad value for money offer even for an efficient manly attention graber scent but with a bad performance.
Recommended? It depends on your budget or in the way you value perfumes. Good for a good impression on a job interview conducted by a lady, but inoffensive for a long night out.
Blind buy worthy? Not really, unless you don't value performance.

Music: Cat Stevens - "Tea for the Tillerman" - very nice piece of music but lasts less than one minute.


01/17/2020
5 Awards
[short review]
The Dior Homme line is sometimes hated and often loved. Perhaps it is the most consensual male perfume of the elite trio Chanel-Dior-YSL.
This Dior star - as well its Valentino satellites and its Zara and Armaf's asteroids - have in common a strong Iris note. Then the different perfumes may offer you a little more or a little less of vanilla, ambrette and cedar, or even leather and cocoa. Performance and quality are proportional to price.
Usually the most serious perfumers prefer Homme Parfum or Homme Intense within the Dior offer.
Dior Homme Parfum and Valentino Uomo EdT are the farthest fragrances away from this strong backbone of Iris. The Dior's Parfum version has a musky footprint due to the Ambrette note and, of all the perfumes mentioned so far, it is the only one that has an Oud note added to the Cedar note.
I am not a strong fan of Iris so I may have some distance and fairness to compare these fragrances. On the other hand, I love Oud but I was never completely convinced that there is real harmony in a blending of Oud and Iris.
I should really like Dior Homme Parfum but I confess that its spraying choice for me is punctual, and I do it only when I find myself in a darker mood or when the weather is very cold. Most of the time I prefer the most wearable Intense version ... and I don't ever let anybody to take away from me my beloved and sweeter Valentino Uomo EdT in brighter and warmer days.
But if it's really cold, the Dior Homme Parfum thicker scent becomes irresistible, besides giving us the best performance with an enviable longevity, sillage and projection.

Music: Pink Floyd - "Dark Side of The Moon"


12/10/2019
5 Awards
[short review]
You may love it or hate it, but Bleu de Chanel is a blue fragrance landmark. Of all the versions, the one I prefer is the Eau de Parfum concentration and there is a number of reasons for it.
- First of all, the citrus. In the opening there is a citrus accord that smells like a mix of deep yellow lemon and grapefruit. Very refreshing and very attention grabbing.
- Second strong impression. The not strong balsamic and smoky incense/amber base notes frame that actualy makes this fragrance a bit less blue and stresses the woody facet of it. Due to this accord, the fragrance gains performance but above all, it excell in the wearability and versatility domains.
- Third remark. The wood notes are superb although not dominant. They add a lot of class and masculinity to the dominant "bleu" panorama.
- Fourth and last reasoning. As a masculine and manly perfume, the scent must please the ladies around us. And it does it quite well.

I do have other designer blue fragrances that I probably wear more frequently, like Mauboussin Private Club or even Versace Dylan Blue. But to complement a light wool dark suit, a white collar shirt and a silk tie, Bleu de Chanel EdP cannot be beaten.

Music: Frank Sinatra "Blue Moon"


12/03/2019
4 Awards
[short review]
Amber and Oud is a combo hard to resist for me. In my opinion as well, Baldessarini is an underrated designer, producing fragrances that smell more expensive than their actual price.
After trying the Ambré fragrance, that I liked very much, I targeted Ambré Oud as easily deserving a blind buy and I am glad I did it. It may be considered a flanker to the original as a similar amber trail is present in its DNA. However, and besides the introduction of mild oud, the apple note is a lot less noted and there is a new boozy opening accord.
This very well blended Ambré Oud also offers you some patchouli, leather and incense hints, making it a perfume to wear several times in the winter weeks to come. The light touch of whiskey in the opening gives this perfume a nice touch and makes it a bit more unique.
Performance is average, and the projection is not really strong. I was expecting a bit more sillage but I may consider it fair due to the smoothness of the oud ingredients used.
I do pick some small similarities with Interlude Man by Amouage and Amber Oud by Trussardi and both those perfumes are highly regarded. I invite you to take your own conclusions as well.


12/02/2019
5 Awards
[short review]
Oud fragrances may be proposed with different complimentary scents. I like "my oud" very woody with cashmeran and/or sandalwood, or very floral with rose, or very spicy with saffron, or very manly with leather, or sweetened by cinnamon and/or vanilla. It's not really common to have all those oud complementary notes in the same perfume.
Such a blending approach on a perfume description would make me very suspicious about the fragrance effectiveness and I would probably imagine it more as an oriental perfumed salad than as a perfume I would like to wear. I am glad I blind bought this fragrance about 3 years ago, after enjoying very much the previous purchase of Aigner N°1 Intense. I only paid attention to the notes description after trying this fragrance for the first time after buying it.
You can smell the oud right from the start and it stays active till the fainting of the drydown. But in the opening you notice a lot of sweet cinnamon, in quite a "Montalish" way I should say. After the the sweet opening you cannot fail noticing a "Montale" smooth rose as well. After a while the fragrance looses a bit of its sweetness and it becames easier to detect the leather and the saffron. The cashmeran note is more apparent during the drydown.
The final result is very good indeed, and I cannot help to recall two fragrances I love very much: Armani Privé - Oud Royal and Armaf Niche Oud.
Unfortunately the performance is under average for an oud fragrance, but I do recommend it anyway even if you'll must respray to keep the scent alive and kicking.
My "oudish" regards!


11/29/2019
4 Awards
Leather Oudh by Al Haramain is similar to other leather gems but equal to none. Is it better? Is it worst? Well it may be just a bit different... similar but different.
Let's start with the raspberry note. It's to sweet and to pungent for my taste, but the overall composition remains well balanced with this opening.
In the heart I remark the not too strong labdanum/incense accord and the cashmere/woody notes. I really do like them and they frame very well other more extreme or noticed notes.
In the base, animalic leather rules and gives just a a bit of space to an austere cedar and enough amber to cope with the labdanun/cashmere heritage. A bit of musk stresses out the animalic seasoning coming from the leather.
Without the initial sweetness this fragrance would be too bitter and probably too animalic. Consequently the overall fragrance perception could be way different.
The end result is a final product that can easily recall any of the other more famous leather sweet perfume. In my opinion its closest cousins are Tuscan Leather and La Yuqawam.
Performance is high but I already learn that leather scents tend to present different behaviors in different skins types. With leather perfumes I do give a high importance to clothes spraying performance and Leather Oudh excells in that field.
The (-) ... I really consider the presentation inferior to the one displayed by the competing flasks.
The (+) ... Unbeatable value for money ratio. "Arab Tradition" is also an inexpensive fragrance but very difficult to find.

Let's rate this leather gem:
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Scent Opening:.........7,5 (good)
Scent Drydown:........9.5 (fantastic animalic leather)
Longevity:..................9.0 (close to 9~10 hours in my skin, with 3 sprays)
Sillage:........................9.0 (6~8 feet sillage with 2.5 hours projection; better on clothes)
Uniqueness:..............7.0 (evoquing other less recent leather scents)
Wearability:...............7.5 (Winter and Fall night & day)
Versatility:.................8.0 (go easy on the trigger and you will have an unexpected versatility)
Compliments:...........7.0 (pleases leather fragrance lovers and little else)
Quality:......................8.0 (above average quality ingredients)
Presentation:............6.0 (I don't like the red glass colour and the lettering used; Good cap and spray though!)
Price:.........................10.0 (€30.00 for the 100ml flask).
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Overall rating: 8,05/10.00
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion: An excelent value for money offer for a quality leather fragrance.
Recommended? It depends on your budget or in the way you value perfumes. is it really worthy to pay 10~15 times more per ml for a very similar perfume? Is this one (or their compeating cousins) my favourite leather scents?... No way! I prefer less sweet leather scents like Dark Rebel Rider by John Varvatos or Cuir by Molinard.
Blind buy worthy? No! Do try it before you buy it.

Music: Kenny Rogers - "The Gambler"


11/28/2019
3 Awards
This perfume is quite unique.
It opens very floral with magnolia, frangipani and jasmine (jasmine is not listed, so I may have been fooled by the magnolia and frangipani duo).
I can perceive the rose notes almost along with the opening persistent florals. Undoubtedly there is cinnamon (not at all sweet) and some tobacco hints in the heart.
The oriental twist is perceived almost from the start as well. Both ouds listed are not the barnyard type and there is a bit of a smooth medicinal oud touch in the air. They blend very well with the persistant florals. You just get a non floral oud in the drydown. There is an animalic accord present that I tie more with castoreum as the typical civet pee smell is tottaly absent to my nose.
The dry down for me is all about a smooth oud background, an animalic accord, the (not really sweet) vanilla and cocoa pod, and hints of tobacco and cinnamon. The traditionally sweet notes have a strong spicy behaviour but are not really of the gourmand type.
This fragrance is somewhat complex for a spicy-woody oriental perfume, but I also classify it as an oudy-oriental for beginers as the usually strong oud and animalic notes are really tammed from start to finish.
The global performance is high, with an above average longevity, and an average sillage and projection for the existent notes.

How do i rate this unique oriental?
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Scent Opening:.........8,5 (very good)
Scent Drydown:........9.0 (fantastic but smooth)
Longevity:..................8.5 (close to 9 hours in my skin, with 3 sprays)
Sillage:........................7.5 (6 feet sillage with 2.0 hours projection)
Uniqueness:..............9.5 (quite unique, although evoquing some other oriental scents)
Wearability:...............8.0 (Winter and Fall night & day, and why not on Spring days)
Versatility:.................8.0 (go easy on the trigger and you will be surprised by its versatility)
Compliments:...........8.0 (more a self pleaser than an attention grabber but catching the attention of all oriental fragrance lovers)
Quality:......................9.0 (above average quality ingredients and a high concentration of 25%~30%)
Presentation:............8.0 (in line with all other Bortnikoff flasks)
Price:..........................5.0 ($90.00 or $350.00 for the Extrait de Parfum (25 – 30%) in 9ml or 50ml contenances.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
Overall rating: 8,09/10.0
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion: An oriental unique scent, and I like it very much. An oriental gem.
Recommended? Only if you feel like paying the niche Bortnikoff price. Other niche and not niche Oud Perfumes satisfy me as much as this one, and they sell for 1/5 of the price.
Blind buy worthy? No! Do try it before you buy it.

Music: Mena Massoud, Naomi Scott - "A Whole New World"
I thank my pal Armando Raposo (Arjotera PARFUMO profile) for sending me an Oud Monarch decant to enable this perfume review.


11/22/2019
4 Awards
[short review]
I like (very) dark, spicy & woody perfumes. If a bit of animalic leather is added, better still. The rose note is also wellcome but only if it's a dark animalic one... like the one you may smell in Mancera's Black Line.
I really like this fragrance. You get spices, a wonderfull dracula rose seasoned with dark leather, and a great balsamic gaiac with a bit of santal for the drydown. This scent that is amazingly blended and gives you a very smooth development. It has the one of the most pleasant rose note that I've ever smelled. It's smoother than my rose references, namely the rose in Oud Ispahan or in Qasamat Morhaf.
Browsing by the ratings given so far to this perfume I can only conclude that it's not really a popular scent. What a pity... as I really really like it. That's our right to be different.
The performance is great, and the ladies seem to like it a lot. It will be one of my picks for the upcomming Winter for sure.


11/16/2019
6 Awards
[short review]
I may describe Acqua di Giò as lime fresh, citrus fresh, sea breeze scented , with a dash of sweetness and, of course, with a touch of wood, moss and musk for the drydown to last a couple of hours. However this small description - 90% accurate in my opinion - fails to encompass a complex fragrance like Acqua di Giò.
This fragrance is like prism for me. I synthesize it into different feelings and, depending of my mood, I pick different perceptions. I just list half a dozen:
* Perception 1 - Boredom - you will meet other people today wearing this scent.
* Perception 2 - Nostalgia - of my scuba diving days and the boat sea breeze after a long dive. It must use a very good quality Calone ingredient.
* Perception 3 - Freshness - the strong lime freshness is unmatched.
* Perception 4 - Spruce - it really passes the sensation of neat in dress and appearance.
* Perception 5 - Sweetness - sweet, but classy sweet due to the fruity and floral notes topped by the sweet queen Mignonette flower.
* Perception 6 - Self reliance - reliance on one's own powers and resources, and yes... ladies keep turning their heads with this perfume sillage.

... and that's how this complex fragrance does not fit in a simple description.
Do I wear Acqua di Giò EdT a lot? Not really! But I like to have this perfume near by.
My 51 year old wife and my 18 year old daughter both just love it.


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