Comed

The Private Line (dark bottle) was replaced by the Signature version (transparent bottle) by Tom Ford. In fact, I like both versions.

The private version is super green, multi-faceted and very playful. I once described this with a journey through the herb garden. The scent undergoes a strong transformation. And it's a little harder to understand.

The signature version is less complex and for me, it really only reflects the main theme of the fragrance (that wonderful zino note). Besides, the drydown is a bit monotonous. The Patch/Amber combination is less high quality, somewhat synthetic, even "sticky"

In the Private Line is for me the more exciting fragrance. It is exciting, versatile and complex
The Signature version is the better one for daily use because it is cheaper and less dense and complex. Actually, as I was hoping. I keep both bottlings.

Since 1959 there is this great fragrance and I have tested and analyzed the last 4 reformulations for me. The result may help you to identify the different versions and to classify them better:

1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)

Top note: citrus+, tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Heat: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Shelf life: +
Note: Vetiver as an accessory to fine cut tobacco, after an unspectacular prelude unfortunately quickly up close

2. Milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (in the years 2000-2011)

Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: ++
Note: completely new composition, vetiver appears green, cool and sober, tobacco is only prominent in the top note, in the drydown then harmonious tobacco vetiver next to each other

3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" logo, green liquid, green packaging (2011-2016)

Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Heat: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Remark: looks harmonious from the beginning, also in the drydown vetiver and tobacco well balanced, corners and edges were sanded out, composition again a little warmer

4. Synthetic wood cap, high bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, grey standard packaging (since 2016)

Top note: citrus+++, tobacco+
Drydown: vetiver++, tobacco+
Heat: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Shelf life: +
Note: Prominent lemon in prelude, much less tobacco, in drydown harsh vetiver turns green, slightly dull, warmth was reduced again

Over time, the conditions of vetiver and tobacco have changed greatly. In summary, it can be said that tobacco has been further and further reduced. In return, the fragrance became ever more vetiver-green and the top note ever more citrus-rich.

I wouldn't go so far as to describe the 4 versions as separate fragrances. Also the topic of the "smoking gardener" is still present. But he smokes much less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)

In order to be able to judge the question of price and quality, a comparison is always necessary.

Am I too big or too small? Too thick or too thin? Too expensive or too cheap? Compared to what, please? You can't get ahead without comparison...

I will compare the fragrance here with Elysium Cologne by Roja Dove. What's the matter with you? Simply subjective perception.

Because the comparison always lies in the eye of the beholder. And for me personally Office for Men strongly reminds of Elysium Cologne by Roja Dove.

In addition both have the same price with 160 euro per 100 ml and must therefore be measured by me.

Where is the money best invested?

While the opening of the Roja is more fruity and radiant, Alberto makes the scent for Jeremy more woody and less noisy.

Morillas saves the Roja-typical pompous fireworks of the opening, but shines with much better durability at an arm length projection.

If you want a spectacle of craftsmanship, you reach for the Elysium. If you want solid craftsmanship that can last an extra mile in the office, go to Office for Men.

What are the differences? More Marketing.

If you want beautiful stories about noble fragrances and childlike experiences, you can go for Roja Parfums. If you want YouTube push-ups and "the Best" Bling-Bling, you inevitably end up with Jeremy.

What's the same? Solid craftsmanship.

The juice is 1A in both cases. The perfumers are true masters. The heads are great storytellers. And the fragrances are both in the mass-produced segment at niche prices.

A comparison with the market will show whether commercial success can be achieved. I certainly wish it for both of them. They both do good work.

For a long time I have been looking for a portable oud scent for the office. Oud and office does that ever go?

In the office I either wear scents with a maximum of one arm length projection. Or which ones are so pleasing that you can hardly perceive them anymore. Reflection Man or Aventus are good examples.

If Oud's in the game, it'll be interesting for me. Oud is like the salt in the soup. Too much is not good and without it quickly becomes boring. The nose reports "harmless" to the cerebrum and gradually fades out many good fragrances.

Oud is the "hello guard" of the perfume world. It's impossible for my nose to blend out scents with oud. Oud smells like burnt wood. Fire! An alarm signal that activates the mind.

But you don't necessarily want that in the office. The only exception may be trade fairs or negotiations. Here you want to be present all the time. Otherwise rather not.

The Armani Oud scent manages this difficult balancing act. He is present, but not more than an arm's length. Through the iris so noble and pleasing that my brain can switch off from time to time.

The Armani Oud is located somewhere between Tom Fords Oud Wood (cardamom) and Dior Homme (iris). Shelf life is ideal with 6-7 hours on my skin. I don't want to be in the office any longer.

Finally, I can fully recommend this fragrance for the office. Although he has his own character, he is still a team player: a true leader!

Early November, 10 degrees and the days are getting darker. Time to get to grips with oud scents.

I send 3 fragrances into the race, which not only have oud in their name, but also smell mainly of oud. Or what I think is oud. ¶)

Here we have the reformulated classic of YSL M7 Oud Absolu. The established reference of Nasomatto Black Afgano. And the challenger Gucci Oud Intense here.

The opening starts with the M7 very warm, round and almost sweet with nouances of mandarin and for me very light but spicy oud. The Gucci comes a little deeper with dark fruits. Black Afgano is the soprano in the round and hits an oud with nouances of cannabis around the ears. What a blast!

In the course of time the oud in the M7 becomes even lighter and keeps its fine note on my skin for 6-7 hours without becoming really intrusive. Simply a masterly composition without corners and edges. The projection is OK.

Gucci keeps its high quality oud fragrance very linear for 8-10 hours at a high level. It is a bit stronger and darker than the M7. But still round. The projection is GUT.

In the course of the Black Afgano of 10-12 hours, the oud scent gets darker and darker and becomes really heavy and smoky on the skin towards the end. Even a little tiring for me to wear. The projection is STARK.

Conclusion: For me personally, the Gucci Oud Intense has won. Even if the fragrance composition of the M7 is perhaps more refined, it has something more valuable for me. You notice the outstanding quality of the ingredients. The oud just smells wonderful.

Both are so beautiful and round that I can wear them in the office. The Gucci is right on the border, but that's exactly what I like about him. He is very present and does not beat the strands.

This is where I personally see the great weakness of Black Afgano. I personally can't think of many scenarios where I want to smell so strong and heavy of oud (and some pothead).

Nevertheless, all fragrances are wonderful oud fragrances and should be tested by anyone interested in oud. I like the Gucci best in the overall package. Even in terms of value for money. Thank you, Gucci!