Coutureguru

I made a comment after reading Gold's review below that Jour is like Terre, but with flowers. To a certain extent, this is true ... but I have, again, had the same experience that I had with Terre. Jour has grown on me!

I was given a bag of samples some time ago, containing 5 or 6 of Jour, so I've been spraying every now and then, out of morbid curiosity I guess. This morning, I had that 'a-ha' moment ... and realised that while Jour is not groundbreaking in any way, M. Ellena's art definitely comes from an intensely cerebral place.
Jour d'Hermes is not a 'smell it and buy it' fragrance (at least for me), as so many offerings these days are designed to be. No padded top notes here ... just bright, crystalline citruses that have the exquisite sense to hang around for a while, before they segue into what I like to call a 'hush' of florals. Not overly sweet, I am still trying to figure out which part of the 'jour' this fragrance relates to ... but I'm pretty sure that it's before noon.
There is a dewiness here ... and a green-ness that feels like an open field spotted with nodding daisys and wild lillies. On this side of the fence is a gardenia bush glistening with dew, while the sweet peas in the formal border turn their faces to the sunshine.
The only negative for me here is the laundry Musk in the dry down ... yes, it provides a certain cleanliness to the composition ... but is really not something I enjoy on my skin.

So then ... lesson learned! Spend some time with the creations of this legendary perfumer (as one should!). Jour d'Hermes is thought provoking and will finally paint the image that it intends ... even if one doesn't feel the need to purchase it.

1947 Paris, in fashion terms, must have been such an interesting place to be! Post WW2, the collection at Dior is heralded as a 'New Look' on the back of a quip by a reporter, while at Balenciaga the first fragrance from this house is released ... the inspiringly beautiful 'Le Dix'. The world of fashion is looking forward, and shedding it's wartime severity.

Does Le Dix smell old fashioned? Why yes ... in the same way that all great things from a time gone by do! Does it smell dated? Well ... not to my nose it doesn't. The difference between a perfume smelling 'dated' and 'old fashioned' ('it's the same thing' some will cry!) resides in its heritage as far as I am concerned. Some fragrances from as recent as the 90's smell 'dated' to me ... whereas Le Dix simply smells vintage, and classic. I'm lucky enough to be reviewing a vintage parfum, gleaned off the net at a very reasonable price.

It is unfathomable that Violet is not listed in any of the note pyramids I have seen, because there it is ... front and centre. I have a spotty track record with violet (a la Stephen Jones Millinery) ... but here in Le Dix it works a magic that is tantamount to ethereal. This fragrance carries a certain melancholy ... suitable to its intention as an 'evening' perfume. One can see it matched with a starkly elegant, architectural gown ... the hallmark of Balenciaga style. It smells like dusk in Autumn, when the last rays of a watery sun still carry enough warmth to slightly emblazon the clear, crisp air it has just vacated.
A floral aldehyde, it is difficult not to draw parallels with other famous fragrances of the same genre - many say that Le Dix is like no.5 with violets, and to a certain extent this is true. Le Dix is, however, in very good company ... Miss Dior is released in the same year, as is Balmain's Vent Vert.
The progression from slightly sharp Bergamot and Lemon in the top, to beautiful florals in the heart and on to a solid woodsy and slightly vanillic base is all crystallised by the aldehydes here ... doing their job of making this fragrance sparkle. I can't help but be reminded of a line from one of my favourite Eartha Kitt songs : " ... I like the old fashioned flowers, Violets are for me ... have them made in diamonds by the man at Tiffany ...".

So there it is ... sparkling violet diamonds ... herein lies the attraction of the beautiful, classic Le Dix by Balenciaga.

In a marketplace that abounds with Oud fragrances, Ferrari Essence Oud strikes me as one that may be trying too hard. I generally avoid fragrances made by licence to automobile manufacturers, but I tried this one out of my morbid Oud curiosity.

Essence Oud definitely has some wonderful moments. The first 10 minutes are a little confused as the Rose/Saffron accord desperately tries to unshackle itself from a dusty note (probably the elemi and caraway combination), but when it does, it is truly lovely as it combines with a synthetic Oud rising from the heart.
Too soon, the dustiness is back while the base tries to release itself from the chemical soup it is trapped in. Again ... when it does, a rich sweetness takes over ... incense-y and smooth ... but before long a ton of Vanilla (not listed for some reason) steps in and obliterates pretty much anything that has gone before.
Essence Oud is more like a well driven car that needs a tune-up than a finely honed marvel of mechanical engineering. Priced mid range, this Oud is a good one as a harbinger for an Oud fascination and definitely has great moments. Unfortunately I also find it messy in the transitions, which is a great pity. It is possessed of above average longevity and medium sillage ... but in saying that I must mention that it interacted very well with the Encre Noire I was wearing when I tested it.

Like vat produced celeb-u-scents, I find this offering annoying! If one can afford to drive a Ferrari, then one can afford a fragrance that is beautifully made. This statement is, however, simply a matter of opinion :) ...

This was a gift from a friend who knows I collect frags and every so often surprises me with something really different! Monocle Scent Two: Laurel is an outstanding fragrance from CdG … different enough to be noteworthy!

It is impossible to have such a large number of fragrances by a house without having the occasional bomb (I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Wonderwood) but most of the frags I have tried by CdG have agreed with my skin and I have liked … especially their Incense series. Monocle Scent Two: Laurel is an animal of a different nature.
Firstly, I have given this fragrance full marks for sillage and longevity, with the proviso that I wore it twice in hot, humid weather … and I characteristically oversprayed (lol). On both occasions I literally had people crossing the room to ask what I was wearing, and telling me that it was fantastic! I have yet to try it out in the cold so time will tell.
The bracing Lemon introduction segues quickly into a strong Pepper and warm Cinnamon accord that may be over the top for some. Also apparent quite fast is the abject dryness of Galbanum and then the aromatic herbal Laurel (or Bay) joins the party. The heart phase of this fragrance is quite green with a soft, incense vibe going on. By the time the base is reached the woods are going strong … sweetened a touch by the Violet.
Monocle Scent Two: Laurel is a densely aromatic fragrance that for me, personally, stands out of the crowd. I've read elsewhere that it is a rough representation of Malle's French Lover, but not having had the opportunity of ever trying that I cannot comment. Be that as it may, I was genuinely surprised (and delighted) by the positive feedback I had wearing this.

Comme des Garcons regularly pushes the envelope with its fragrant wares. It's wonderful to know that something can be as different as Monocle Scent Two: Laurel , and still be completely wearable!

A quick stroll through Marks and Spencer's beauty department a few days ago afforded me the opportunity of trying some Monotheme fragrances, a company that is new to me. If you enjoy Oud and are not willing to pay some of the exorbitant prices it goes for, then this £22 offering should be right up your alley.

From what I can tell, Monotheme is an Italian outfit, and I'd love to know where these fragrances are formulated.
Black Label - Black Oud opens with a colourful, orange peppery-ness before a sweetened Labdanum/Oud accord takes over. There is a warmth provided here too with the addition of a very controlled and delicate Clove … something I never thought I'd say about this spicy note! I'm really impressed that this fragrance doesn't contain the obligatory Musk undertone that many 'Black' Oud offerings do … not that I dislike the Musk in, for example, Montale's Balck Aoud … which I also love but rarely wear anymore.
This Monotheme offering moves in a different direction, sweetening up the woodsy dry down with a beautifully vanillic Amber. While the Oud note here is probably synthetic, it is rather convincing in the company of a well thought our Wood accord. Soft and smooth, the Oud here stays well out of medicinal territory and comes off as relatively light when compared with some others I have tried.

I may have titled this review 'budget', but that refers only to the nominal asking price of a 100ml bottle of this lovely fragrance. Black Label - Black Oud is a fantastic discovery … one that will find a regular place in my rotation.