DieNaseDieNase's Perfume Reviews

1 - 5 of 17
DieNase 7 years ago
9
Scent
7.5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle

The better Terre d'Hermes
Well, I own a decant of this scent. Have given it a few full wearings meanwhile. My first impression was "Terre d'Hermès". However when trying it more thouroughly I can see lots of differences. I do smell the incense here - I don't get any incense at all in TdH. I don't get the green and salty notes that I get in TdH pure perfume. I don't get the flintstone from TdH EdT, or say much less flintstone. I don't get Iso E Super in this one. Then the citric notes are different - probably due to the ginger notes. Vetyver incenso is not as loud as Terre d'Hermès. In the drydown I do get greenish notes of vetiveryl acetate, which I don't get in TdH. They blend extremely well with the incense. Overall, I think vetyver incenso is the more elaborated and sophisticated of the two. Definitely worth a try. If it is worth the extra price tag is up to you. I got a decant for a good price, bought blind, so that's ok. Don't judge this scent by the first impression. Give it the chance to dry down for a couple of hours and you'll see that it is NOT a copy of Terre d'Hermès but rather a more refined descendant!

DieNase 8 years ago 2
8
Scent
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle

Still waters run deep
I got a sample vial of this one when I ordered at AlzD. The description sounded very promising to me.
Actually I have no clue what Mandragore is and how it usually smells like.
This one is a true unisex scent, maybe leaning a bit to the masculine side. It smells very natural. Maybe too natural. To my taste some of the Goutals lack abstraction. Sometimes I feel as if I was in a herb garden.
In the beginning I get a lot of anise, which I like. The scent is very herbal, and there is a beautiful incense note.
The drydown gets interesing and is better balanced. The herbal feel fades slightly but I still smell a slight herbal bitterness.
Can't say much about the longevity because I haven't had a full day trial yet. I got the impression that it stays close to the body, a still water. But close to the skin it has presence.
A beautiful scent, but not a clear buy. But I'll try again.

Update december 2011:
I tried again and liked it. I noticed a slight rubber note. But somehow it doesn't get me. When I had put it on my sisted asked me to stay away for her (well, don't take it too seriously, she hasn't got taste *lol*). She said that I smelled of cloves. Strange, it is not listed. Don't know if there was some Equipage lingering on my collar.

DieNase 8 years ago 4
6
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
5
Bottle

Nostalgia
I used to own this scent when I was much younger. I had an english teacher who was really cool and I loved her signature scent. She was a smoker - and this flowery aquatic scent in combination with cigarrete smoke was even better. I know, this sounds strange.
I wanted this scent. Went to a perfumery and tried some. And when I smelled CK escape I thought I had identified the scent. My parents bought me Escape for christmas (that I don't like any more at all today - too heavy and harsh flowers). But after wearing it a couple of times I wasn't sure any more that this was my teacher's scent.
Later, a couple of years after having left school, my sister got sunflowers as a present. She didn't like it - so she gave it to me and got my Vanderbildt (which I hated and still hate). And it was like a déjà-vu: THIS was my english teacher's scent! At first I liked it a lot. But after having used only half of the 30 ml bottle I was really fed up with it.
Today I still don't like it - but I understand why I used to like it: the sunny flowery notes, some fresh, aquatic notes, a little bit of spice. Very nineties. Can't really describe it in detail. Today my nose thinks that it is unbalanced and cloying, a little bit cheap as well.
Recently I met this scent again, seems to be the new signature scent of a friend of mine. Well, she's pregnant, maybe that ruined her taste ;)
Longevity was ok, as I remember (don't want to try again to find out).
I'll give it a benevolent 60% - just because of my memories. As I said I used to like it. Otherwise I would give it a lower rating.
2 Replies

DieNase 8 years ago 5
9
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle

A dreamscent
I bought a decant of this scent blind. And as you can guess from the title - I don't regret at all! This is damn porn cool (well, can't translate that one)!

In some reviews on the internet it is compared to one of my favourite scents Déclaration by Cartier. Both have the bitter orange in common - and of course the nose: Jean-Claude Ellena. But that's it - to my nose.
The salty cumin note of Déclaration, that some people consider as sweaty - is totally absent in this scent. Nothing powdery-musky animalistic in this scent. Well, there is a tiny skank note in this scent. I suppose that it comes from some indolic jasmine, which is not listed above. But I'm quite sure that there is some indolic flower, jasmine or neroli. I'm also able to smell the rose, which I have never been able to discover in Déclaration. No cardamom here. A totally different scent indeed. A juicy bitter orange with flowery elements and a touchh of skank - just enough to give it some depth and flesh.

Some have asked how Bigarade concentrée compares to Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne. Again I would say two totally different scents. The top note of Orange Sanguine is absolutely stunning, a very natural juicy orange. But it dries down to a woody white musk, which is fortunately absent in Bigarade - at the expense of some longevity. I don't get jasmine in Orange Sanguine, although it is declared.

To summarise: Bigarade concentrée is a really juicy fruity flowery scent, very sensual and erotic. It would be definitely full-bottle-worthy if it wasn't that pricey in combination with mediocre longevity. Otherwise it would have been a 100%!

Update: possibly I'll get the full bottle for summer. It smells just absolutely great! Love it!

Update II: I get some similarity with Eau d'Hermès in its actual version - far less skanky of course. Definitely a tribute to Roudnitska! Also reminiscent of Eau Sauvage (but jucier and stronger, less herbal).

DieNase 8 years ago 3
9
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
10
Bottle

Lavender Vanilla
After having this scent in my collection for a while I have to pay tribute to it and write a comment.

Lavender + Vanilla but neither Jicky not Pour un Homme. How is that?

You can find the recipe of this dream-scent at
http://www.bykilian.com/en/les_fragrances/a_taste_of_heaven/

What you see are mainly high-quality naturals, amber seems to be the only component that is synthetic. And they make us pay for it (although lavender is not particularly expensive, it must be the real vanilla and tonka) - but the travel refils are affordable.

I've just sprayed some on my arm - in summer (original written in august) the sweet vanilla notes are a bit more prominent, I think.
The scent seems quite linear for quite some time. The vanilla is present from the beginning, the lavender is very long lasting. The transitions between the different stages are veeery smooth. I suppose that this is due to the high concentration of perfume oils and the technically very good composition. The longevity of the scent is very good and the sillage very noticeable but not too overpowering.
In this scent Kilian uses costus oil as a fixator. Together with Barrême lavender this ingredient seems responsible for the slight animalic touch of this scent. The Barrême seems to dominate the other lavender oils although it doesn't have the highest percentage (I own some decants of different lavender oils, and I clearly smell the Barrême in this one). Animalistic and sexy - yeah. But very different from Jicky, which has a good dose of civet and herbes provencales. Actually I don't think that it ressembles Jicky that much at all. In taste of heaven the lavender note is more dominant and more long-lasting, while the drydown of Jicky is more carnal and muskier.
To be honest, I have no clue what absinth smells like, but I don't think that it contains that much even though this perfume owes its name to this component.
Luca Turin calls A taste of heaven a "refined version of Pour un Homme" (more refined but one star less than the Caron). I don't agree with him in this point for one simple reason. I love taste of heaven but can't stand Pour un Homme. To my nose Pour un Homme is pure synthetic and not well composed. It does have a civet note (I think) that strongly reminds me of bad breath.

Taste of heaven is a unisex scent. Due to its classic fougère structure it leans a bit towards the masculine side. But the vanilla sweetness makes it very wearable for women. Despite its classic character I wouldn't consider it dated at all. Due to its intensity it is more of a special occasion scent and not an everyday-to-work-scent. Especially in summer I wouldn't wear it to the office. Actually I don't have many opportunities to wear it. I think it would be very suitable for formal occasions (suit+tie / coat and skirt), for theater, opera, work dinner amongst others - as long as it may be less subtle than Pour Monsieur. Don't misunderstand - it is not a terribly loud fragrance, but it does have presence and you will get noticed.
Simply beautiful, classy, perfectly balanced.

Addition: Later it starts developing a herbal, slightly bitter note. Especially when you stick your nose close to the skin. Might be the absinth.

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