DieNase

This treasure is part of my collection of late (edit: original comment from 2.9.2011). I had tested the EdT various times (in summer) - it is much easier to find in ordinary perfumeries. It was somehow very nice, but it seemed to lack some harmony. i suppose that the combination citrus + cocoa does not work that well on my skin (although I really love the citrus note of l'instant). Maybe it was the temperatures. In food, I don't like the combination choclate + fruit/lemon either. Rather either or. Well, an exception is bitter choclate (at least 85% cocoa) with bitter orange. Maybe Guerlain should do that as a flanker.
Well, I tried to love the EdT, because I loved the citric-spicy top notes so much. But somehow, the development on my skin did not convince me. Maybe I should try again in winter.
Then, in july I finally got to try the EdP in the Alterhaus (Hamburg) and it was obvious that I would get this version instead. The drydown is more beautiful, better balanced, more high grade.
The scent sweetens when smelled directly on the skin, when smelled from further away it's not that sweet (depending on the weather conditions) although I have a quite "sweet skin".
The EdP is heavier and more intense than the Edt, but I don't think it is too heavy or cloying. Elemi and aniseed give it an ethereous character. To me, the EdP is more unisex (not feminine) than the EdT due to the lower key citrus notes and because of a noticeable jasmine note in the heart/drydown. Instead of the citrus here the peppery elemi takes the role of a counterbalance to the bitter-sweet cocoa. In the beginning it tingles a bit in the nose, which must be the elemi. The aniseed supplies additional spice and character. The discreet jasmine note in the heart blends in seamlessly.
It is difficult to identify all the single notes. I got no idea how hibiscus seed smells actually. And I would never have thought of tea. But that's not important after all. This is just a very well balanced composition. Very pleasing, at the same time it has character and recognition value.

Longevity: very good.

Sillage: imho the sillage is medium. It is not breathtaking nor room-filling. It is significant directly after spraying. But when it starts drying down it has a rather discreet presence, it is noticeable, but rather subtle. Some reviewers on the internet call it a sillage monster. I cannot see why. I think, in autumn/winter it is very suitable for the office. It is also perfect for special occasions or even as a signature scent. Very versatile in my opinion.

Concerning the category: I would name it a borderline-gourmand. Despite of the cocoa I wouldn't call it a pure gourmand. It is too complex and hard to categorize. The choclate-patchouli also has some woodiness.

PS: They try to prevent women from using this scent by making the 75 ml bottle nearly too broad for my hands to hold - and i don't have particularly small hands :))

Parfums de Nicolai is considered an insider tip among perfumistas. Luca Turin calls Patricia Nicolai one of the most gifted noses today.
Even if some of her scents take quite some time to access - some seem a bit crude and unbalanced at first sight - they can turn out to be true treasures when looked at a bit closer - Vanille-Tonka, New York, just to name a few.

But Eau Turquoise? What the h** is THAT?
It is supposed to be an exotic-tropical scent. I reckon Creed or CSP are better at it.
At first sniff I get some fruit and lots of mint or something like that. After a couple of minutes, it totally turns and gets a really disgusting note that is hard to describe. Animalic somehow, maybe not. Like a mixture of used underpants, sweaty feet and some spilt cuba libre. Something makes me think of Cuba by C&S. I found Cuba quite brutal at first. Not bad, but somehow inaccessible, I had to get used to the heavy skank notes.
This one however is bad and stays bad. Makes me sick. The best thing about it is that it doesn't project much.
I simply can't understand how the same person can create a masterpiece like New York or Vanille-Tonka and this tasteless rubbish. It shocks me. Technically bad. Just my two scents.

Some parfumistas seem to associate Eau Sauvage with "old man", old school etc. Well I don't. Maybe because I'm a girl or because my Dad did not wear this scent (or any scent at all). I don't get this old man vibe at all. Doesn't seem more dated than A scent by Issey Miyake or Bigarade concengtrée.
Why these two scents? Well, let's start from the beginning.
How does Eau Sauvage smell at all?
Some people call it a pure citrus scent, I don't get that. Yes, there is lemon in the top notes, a beautiful lemon indeed. But that's just the beginning. It exhibits a slight skanky note. I would ascribe this to the hedione and some indolic jasmine. Hedione was first synthesized in the 60's - and I believe it occurs in natural jasmine as well. If my nose is to be trusted this stuff is to be found in Chanel Cristalle (especially the EdP) and in A Scent by Issey Miyake - in this last one far to much of it I think. Diorella, the female version of Eau Sauvage, doesn't convince me at all. Certain notes (white flowers and too much of the green stuff) are too strong for me. In its brother scent Eau Sauvage however, there is a magic balance: lemon with a very light flowery (rose!!!+jasmine)-green-skanky touch. When I say skanky in this context don't think of Miss Dior with its heavy civet note or even Jicky. Just a tiny little bit, which gives flesh to this EdT and makes it luscious, gives it a feel of something carnal and "not too clean". So, in a way this justifies "sauvage" = wild in the name.
A scent that inspires confidence (that's the daddy vibe?) but in a very erotic manner.

And now please don't beat me up for this comparison: I find this highly delicious combination in a similar form in Bigarade Concentrée! Bigarade Concentrée is more intense in the beginning, it is even more luscious, more rosy. The lemon is replaced by orange. No herbs there (well, on my skin Eau Sauvage doesn't get that herbal anyway). They definitely belong to the same family. Those who love Eau Sauvage should try Bigarade Concentrée and vice versa!

My conclusion:

Audience:
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Although this scent is marketed to guys (and called a gentleman or old daddy scent by some) I think this is very unisex. To me it is not any more masculine than diorella. It is extremely well blended, so delicious, luscious, soft, flowery, sensual... I don't find it conservative at all. It is NOT a macho macho scent.

Occasion
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All the time! Best in spring and summer. Extremely suitable as a signature scent, but also suitable for special occasions (especially sensual ones).

Sillage/longevity
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both medium. It seems to be more of a subtle skin scent. But will be notices in your proximity. Longevity is ok, but could be better.

Having to chose between Cristalle (EdT/EdP), Diorella and Eau Sauvage, which all belong to the same family (and maybe the Miyake), I will always clearly prefer Eau Sauvage. Actually Eau Sauvage is the only one I would even consider out of this bunch.

Between Eau Sauvage and Bigarade concentrée: Hmm, maybe Bigarade would win. But when taking into account the enormous difference in the price tag, Eau Sauvage is a winner. I will use ES more regularly especially in spring/summer while I'll keep my decant of Bigarade concentrée for more special occasions.

...was my first question to the vendor when I sniffed it for the first time. The packaging said "Bois de Satin" whatever that was. Lateron I looked it up in google an - surprise surprise - it is gaiac wood.
Now I finally know for sure how gaiac wood smells like. I assumed it but was not sure. In some scents it doesn't disturb me (colonia intensa by AdP, Brooklyn by Bond) - maybe these scents don't contain that much. However I find it is really awful in Wonderwood, Serge Noire and some of the other modern (oud) orientals. Although this is a difficult note for me, Oriental Lounge is a respectable oriental. On my skin it gets quite sweet and spicy, too sweet for me. Reminds me of the Lutens style, maybe a bit more subtle.
Well, for my taste it is not earth-shaking, but I think that lovers of this genre will like it.

This vetiver is different. To me it is very linear, hardly earthy and smoky, rather fresh and a acid. Yes, quite sour indeed. Some black tea, tea with citrus. A bit like Lipton icetea with less sugar and more citric acid. Maybe some of the acidity comes from the incense. A while ago I ordered some real incense and I made the experience that my Boswellia serrata R. (from india) is very different from the typical church incense, which is from Africa, I think. The indian stuff has some citric notes, I think it might be in some of the Tauers' as well (incense rosé, incense extrême).
In this scent i find some similarities to Tauer's Vetiver Dance, however Coeur de Vétiver Sacré is more tasteful, without the urinous notes of Vetiver Dance.

All in all an interesting scent worthy to be tested, well made. Just not my kind of scent. The acidity makes it seem a bit cool and inapproachable. It lacks earthiness (maybe that's coming in the base, but the top/base notes just last forever). Probably it is just not made for me. I would wear it if it was given to me, but I wouldn't buy it.