DrB1414

DrB1414

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DrB1414 12 months ago 5
10
Scent
Epitome of natural deer musk usage in perfumery
In my opinion, here you have the best use of Siberian Deer Musk in perfumery, so far. I'm a long advocate and lover of the original EO2 parfum, but this one, is better. More complex, more balls, and better blended. Oh, did I mention it's half the price and at a higher concentration? Yes.
Onthamara uses two core materials that lead the composition as a duet, the musk and the amber fossil. They marry beautifully here, the musk with it's animalic, earthy, chocolatey and pissy facets, perfectly tamed by the smokiness, dryness, leathery, and sweet facets of the amber. Around these, you have other notes dancing around, rounding everything. Woods, spices, tobacco. At the end, you get this multifaceted smoky, ambery, musky perfume, that makes people get close to you, and dances around like a hypnotic aura for hours and hours. Perfectly dosed dirtiness, never too much to offend, just enough to intrigue. I love it so much, I had to get a backup. Top 3 ever Prin releases for me.
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DrB1414 12 months ago 4
9
Sillage
10
Longevity
9
Scent
Ashy Black Leather
Danse Lascive is a composition where Rose and Leather dance together till the end surrounded by a big cloud of Frankincense smoke. The smoke accord almost renders a spiritual flair to the perfume.
I'm not a huge rose lover and struggle with smoky perfumes, however, I find the balance Angelos struck here truly captivating. Here we have a smoky leather perfume where Rose is used carefully to balance the composition but never to dominate it. The leather accord makes me think of a black leather jacket, whereas the smoke accord comes across as churchy to me, and appears to be built on the olibanum note. I must say, it makes me think of an Oriental perfume rather than a dance floor. The rose is beautiful, and natural smelling with a slightly green and metallic facet given by the geranium. A masculine rose indeed. I don't quite pick up the tobacco. The vetiver is used to instill a dry texture to the leather. It feels like a dry, almost ashy perfume. In the dry down, the labdanum lends extra leatheriness and smokiness, while the animalics become increasingly assertive. The hyraceum gives a slight mineral nuance while pushing the composition into dangerous territory alongside the civet. As mentioned, I don't get the dance floor association. It makes me think of compositions such as Sultan Pasha's Ame Sombre and to a small extent, Sultan Leather Attar, two perfumes that I adore. Yet, it brings a different flavor to the table and behaves differently enough to find a welcoming place in the collection. One of the best Rose and Leather pairings that I have tried, and the beautiful Frankincense accord is the icing on top of the cake. This was a blind buy for me and a very successful one at that.

IG:@memory.of.scents
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DrB1414 1 year ago 4
8.5
Scent
A beautifully werid one.
Now this is a very complex piece of olfactory art. Wow, what a journey. This stuff smells different in the air, close on the skin, on paper, and it changes all the time. It has that same smoke accord you'd find in Lita, Rex, and Serin, but I prefer this one over the others, as it just conveys what it wants better. The story behind it pretty much tells you what you are to expect here. Buttery Daffodils, ripe peaches, dusty-old furniture, and of course, the smell of a burning lamplight, with the oil and everything. One of those telling-a-story type of perfumes. It is smoky, but not overly so, it has this oily texture to it. The fruits balance out the smoke and the dusty woods, but they are perfectly dosed, not too much, nor too sweet, and the daffodils are very buttery, and creamy, providing even better texture and a sense of the outdoors. The woods are dusty and smell like old furniture. I can't pick up a leather accord, but there is definitely a boozy, scotch-like nuance flowing through.
Blind bought this and I don't regret it at all. This is interesting, very complex, and unique. Big like.

EDIT: It also kinda feels like a child of Kiste and Serin lol:), so yeah, it's a weird one, in a good way.
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DrB1414 2 years ago 5
10
Bottle
6
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
The Animalic perfume to rule them all
This to me is the best animalic perfume ever created. Oh, and I am a huge lover of animalic perfumes, I've sampled pretty much all, and own most.
I'm baffled that this exceptional work of art doesn't seem to get much attention, and not many perfumistas talk about it.
This is an anmialic that has it all. Complexity is very high, one will not get bored wearing and exploring this beauty. It's quite linear from start to finish, but the amalgam of notes and accords makes the journey one of a kind, and one discovers new nuances every other wear.
In short, this perfume is sexual. Yes, sexual, filthy, not sexy. This is sex, intimacy, bodily odor, and fluids. If pheromones would have a descriptive scent, it would be this.
In other words, this perfume has several facets that are perceivable and that coalesce to create the final result. There are spices, mostly cumin, and aromatic notes like parsley, and chamomile. There is also an agrestic nature in here, the smell of grass, hay, and wildflowers. There are woods, and resins, mostly labdanum and styrax, but I wouldn't say that this perfume is a resinous experience, if anything, these two resins give a smoky vibe to Peau de Bete. And the big players here, the civet, castoreum(the leather accord here), and skatole. The three of them are the core players, with all the other notes and accords dancing around them.
The scent is musky, spicy, earthy, grassy, a bit smoky, and leathery. Quite fascinating, there is a prominent creamy, buttery texture that others have also mentioned. Salty as well. Do you see where is this going? Musky, creamy, salty. The skin of the Beast might just as well have been named Human Skin. The smell of human skin after a long night of sexual interplay. But not in a bed, but rather on the wet grass and soil.
One would think, do I want to smell like this? It's artistic for sure, but do I want to wear it? Here is where this perfume shines once again and sets itself apart from the other animalic creations. The perfumer somehow managed to take all this untamed, shameless dirtiness in Peau de Bete, and give it a beautiful sophistication, smoothness, almost elegance. The sillage and projection are low, which means, only you, the wearer, will be able to fully appreciate it, and only those that come close to you. Who would have thought, an uber animalic composition, that can be worn anywhere, anytime, almost like a second skin, an extension of one's identity?
I could go on and on about why I believe this perfume is a work of genius, but I would stop here and plead for all animalic, skanky perfume lovers out there to try this one. You will not be disappointed.
Also, this one didn't make the cut for what is deemed as commercially acceptable, therefore, it's not going to be around for long.
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DrB1414 2 years ago 3
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
The true Arabian Horse, the only one amongst them.....
This one is such an underrated gem. And I am glad to have found out about it. This one has nothing to do with the aesthetics of the house, it's original, not mass-appealing, very complex, bold, and unapologetic. I find it to be utterly seductive and alluring but I can see why many find this repulsive. First of all, there are no animalic musks or synthetic oud accords in here. However, there are two phases of this perfume that could be challenging for many. This one is a very complex perfume that changes a lot after application, so, do test it on the skin, and do wait for it to transform. The first part, is a weird combination of very dry woods, a powerful clove punch(very mentholated), gummy resins, and a hint of honey. This first part almost has an antiseptic or shoe-polish vibe from the cloves, and it can be offputting. It's not my favorite part, but I find it to be very intriguing. Soon after this assaulting opening, the leather accord and the incense accord start to creep in and slowly assert themselves as the main players. The cloves dial down, and you start to get this beautiful brown leather, quite rugged, almost baked in the sun, that also has a buttery and salty quality to it. It feels alive and does smell of horses and stables. To that, you add a beautiful incense accord, creating this dirty and smoky leather feel. In the base, the styrax adds a hint of dirtiness, sweetness, and oriental mysticism. As I said, very complex perfume. This one does pay tribute to the two beautiful stallions on the front of the bottle, as it does smell like being around these beautiful and majestic creatures. I would say, if you are a fan of the house, stay away from this. If, however, you like to explore and expand your horizons, and you are into smoky-dirty leathers, orientals, and animalic perfumes, and you find the house laughable, boring, and commercial, then this one is not to be missed. It's quite unique, I can't compare it to anything else, but it is in the same league as Tauer's L'Oudh, Afrika Olifant, Tom ford's London, Dior's Leather Oud (OG). A gorgeous perfume.
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