DuftDoktor
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DuftDoktor
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The perfect leather fragrance
Well, what's perfect?! Everything is at least partly a matter of taste. And yes, the ingenious leather opening doesn't last forever.
Maybe that's a good thing, because otherwise it's easy to get satirized. A danger that we perfume fans are always in for anyway. That's why we spare our favourite fragrances to avoid getting tired of them.
Leather is an exciting fragrance theme. First, because of the associations. Much more than any other fragrance theme, leather is charged with thought images and promises - from masculine Lonesome Rider attitude to passionate sex. Here, therefore, strong affection and vehement rejection lie close together, not only due to the physiological scent impression. There are so many conflict issues that access to leather fragrances is almost always biased.
Second, because of the scent itself. In general, all of them polarize fragrances that are considered great by some people. There are fragrances that everyone finds nice, but there are no undisputed great fragrances. This applies particularly to leather. Because a leather fragrance is obviously very difficult to produce without suffocating on disadvantages.
There are beautiful scents with leather. Either the leather is hardly noticeable there (and one can guess how one often smells anyway what one thinks to know about the scent) or is overlaid by other scents. Fragrances with leather in second or third place can be very nice (see e.g. "Aoud Night" by Montale), but then it is simply not a real leather fragrance. - So for my taste many would-be leather scents slip into sweetness or iris-heavy (which is then talked about more beautifully as suede). Also the sweet leather can be nice, for instance with rum like in "Bentley for Men Intense".
So far I thought it was impossible to make a good real leather fragrance (i.e. a good leather fragrance with leather as the dominant fragrance). This was not a rejection in principle, but a thesis based on many experiences with leather fragrances.
Examples: Guerlain's Derby is my carnation. It's bugging me. With "Knize Ten" the Bibergeil portion is too high for me (which is a cool scent, but rarely wearable). At "Bel Ami" I don't like the pungent bitterness.
Now Alberto Morillas has proven with "Dark Lord" that a beautiful, even very beautiful real leather scent is possible!
So far I have not thought him to be one of the great perfumers, as he has already committed many scent crimes. But now he has received absolution and ascended to perfumers' olympus.
In his Opus Magnus he did not succumb to many temptations. So the dark lord does not drift off into the sweet, bacony, dirty or (all too) synthetic. That the fragrance ends with an impression of shoe polish and woodiness is acceptable to me. All other leather fragrances have other disadvantages. You always have to swallow a toad, because there is nothing perfect in every respect, as I mentioned at the beginning.
Darth Vader's signature fragrance has a perfect leather note in its head and heart. It smells of leather jacket, leather school satchel and does without a second violin. Only in third place a noble, spicy fragrance bed appears. Davana and Rum are the most likely to be mentioned here.
The best way to imagine the scent impression is to imagine "Epic Man" by Amouage without the oriental fuss (myrrh, frankincense, spices). "("Epic Man" still has its justification as a spice-leather Oriental, only it is not a real leather fragrance.)
A work of art in leather is this dark lord, which can be worn from autumn to spring.
However, its scope is much wider. Because finally there is a "pure" leather fragrance with which you can spice up other fragrances. In the meantime I have become a great friend of layering fragrances, because almost all fragrances do not seem to me to be optimally balanced or incomplete. The little man's perfume smithy is the layering. So you can make your own settings on the fragrance controls, so to speak as a perfume DJ!
Full of excitement I expect my upcoming layering experiments. In perfumery I was already thrilled how "Dark Lord" can add an evil side to Etro's (cypress)woody-herbaceous "Patchouly". Actually, the perfume seller and I were just looking for a perfume that the Lord would NOT go with. Because even with fresh (citric and green) scents the leather school bag harmonizes. That sounds implausible, I know.
His combination strength lies in the fact that the Lord is still restraining his power. Through this countenance, he does not flatten other actors, but lets them stand and come to the fore. He knows he's the coolest, but he doesn't have to show it all the time. "Dark Lord" is not a boastful bawler, but an elegant, dignified gentleman.
Maybe that's a good thing, because otherwise it's easy to get satirized. A danger that we perfume fans are always in for anyway. That's why we spare our favourite fragrances to avoid getting tired of them.
Leather is an exciting fragrance theme. First, because of the associations. Much more than any other fragrance theme, leather is charged with thought images and promises - from masculine Lonesome Rider attitude to passionate sex. Here, therefore, strong affection and vehement rejection lie close together, not only due to the physiological scent impression. There are so many conflict issues that access to leather fragrances is almost always biased.
Second, because of the scent itself. In general, all of them polarize fragrances that are considered great by some people. There are fragrances that everyone finds nice, but there are no undisputed great fragrances. This applies particularly to leather. Because a leather fragrance is obviously very difficult to produce without suffocating on disadvantages.
There are beautiful scents with leather. Either the leather is hardly noticeable there (and one can guess how one often smells anyway what one thinks to know about the scent) or is overlaid by other scents. Fragrances with leather in second or third place can be very nice (see e.g. "Aoud Night" by Montale), but then it is simply not a real leather fragrance. - So for my taste many would-be leather scents slip into sweetness or iris-heavy (which is then talked about more beautifully as suede). Also the sweet leather can be nice, for instance with rum like in "Bentley for Men Intense".
So far I thought it was impossible to make a good real leather fragrance (i.e. a good leather fragrance with leather as the dominant fragrance). This was not a rejection in principle, but a thesis based on many experiences with leather fragrances.
Examples: Guerlain's Derby is my carnation. It's bugging me. With "Knize Ten" the Bibergeil portion is too high for me (which is a cool scent, but rarely wearable). At "Bel Ami" I don't like the pungent bitterness.
Now Alberto Morillas has proven with "Dark Lord" that a beautiful, even very beautiful real leather scent is possible!
So far I have not thought him to be one of the great perfumers, as he has already committed many scent crimes. But now he has received absolution and ascended to perfumers' olympus.
In his Opus Magnus he did not succumb to many temptations. So the dark lord does not drift off into the sweet, bacony, dirty or (all too) synthetic. That the fragrance ends with an impression of shoe polish and woodiness is acceptable to me. All other leather fragrances have other disadvantages. You always have to swallow a toad, because there is nothing perfect in every respect, as I mentioned at the beginning.
Darth Vader's signature fragrance has a perfect leather note in its head and heart. It smells of leather jacket, leather school satchel and does without a second violin. Only in third place a noble, spicy fragrance bed appears. Davana and Rum are the most likely to be mentioned here.
The best way to imagine the scent impression is to imagine "Epic Man" by Amouage without the oriental fuss (myrrh, frankincense, spices). "("Epic Man" still has its justification as a spice-leather Oriental, only it is not a real leather fragrance.)
A work of art in leather is this dark lord, which can be worn from autumn to spring.
However, its scope is much wider. Because finally there is a "pure" leather fragrance with which you can spice up other fragrances. In the meantime I have become a great friend of layering fragrances, because almost all fragrances do not seem to me to be optimally balanced or incomplete. The little man's perfume smithy is the layering. So you can make your own settings on the fragrance controls, so to speak as a perfume DJ!
Full of excitement I expect my upcoming layering experiments. In perfumery I was already thrilled how "Dark Lord" can add an evil side to Etro's (cypress)woody-herbaceous "Patchouly". Actually, the perfume seller and I were just looking for a perfume that the Lord would NOT go with. Because even with fresh (citric and green) scents the leather school bag harmonizes. That sounds implausible, I know.
His combination strength lies in the fact that the Lord is still restraining his power. Through this countenance, he does not flatten other actors, but lets them stand and come to the fore. He knows he's the coolest, but he doesn't have to show it all the time. "Dark Lord" is not a boastful bawler, but an elegant, dignified gentleman.
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