DufterMann

DufterMann

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DufterMann 4 years ago 32 17
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Parfumo creates joy! The journey to Arsene Lupin
Preface:
Where should I start? There are perfumes that you just can't get out of your head, that are on your wish list for months or even years, that are discontinued and therefore increase in price to such an extent that you either can't afford them, you are struggling with the fear that they are overturned, or you are simply not willing to pay such a drastic surcharge and then the search for alternatives begins. You browse reviews, use the expert search here on Parfumo for similar scent pyramids and test your way through, but for every perfume you come across during your journey, it just doesn't click. Then there is the fact that you no longer have the sample given to you by a similarly scented madman for a direct comparison. You write to other perfumers and ask them for alternatives, but no matter what you test, you won't find anything. Your better half sees your dilemma, sells one of her sacred scents, pulls out all the stops to make you happy for Christmas, but she also fails to get the master thief under the Christmas tree. But there is one bright spot. One of the perfumers did not want to part with his bottle, but offered to send a sample so that the good gentleman could continue his research. And then he got an idea...
Why didn't he just write to the fragrance maniac who gave him the sample? You can't take no for an answer. Maybe he'll part with a bottling ?
He had an understanding and offered me an exchange of bottlings, with the scent that inspired him by the sample exchange with me over a year ago. When I hammered the letters into the keyboard, my better half said:

"What do you have to lose if you ask him to fill up his bottle and then he will give you his treasure?"
"That would be cheeky, I told her! I know he likes the smell as much as I do."

But you know what it's like - you don't stand a chance against the better half and besides, I lacked the arguments not to at least try. Especially these days, when women also wear the pants. :-D

And what did I get in return?
The bottle already had a story. It was the very last Arsene Lupin Dandy from KaDeWe before he was hired. But in the same breath, he stressed that he knows that the fragrance will be good for me, that he knows that I love him and that he's leaving the bottle to me for the reason. I could not believe my luck, even now I still lack the words, he did not want money but I still hope that I make him as happy with my exchange package as he made me.
As a small side note, if you're reading this: I know I'm repeating myself, but I'm really fucking grateful to you and I'll take the best care of him. :-)

And now we come to the fragrance:
Freshly sprayed on, a fresh, peppery, citrusy note jumps around my ears, and I also think I can locate the incense quite early. My wife said that she also recognizes a chypre character very early on. The violet becomes noticeable relatively quickly and gradually replaces the bergamot. The peppery note is replaced by cardamom at that stage, with which I actually have my problems in many fragrances, as it usually has a shower gel character for my nose. But not so with arsene lupin. Here it gives a nice spice, the fragrance gets a floral character through the violet and incense serves as a support here. The heart note then lingers for a while before moving gently into its woody base, which is supported by patchouli. In the base he is then very close and still manages to accompany me for just under a working day. And even though the Arsene Lupin is a master thief, I can't manage to locate his leather gloves, even though I find the rest of the scent pyramid very plausible. In my eyes, that's a Woody Chypre. Suitability for everyday use? Yes, sir! 4 Seasons? Check(even though I haven't been able to test it in summer yet). The Sillage is present, but not disturbing. If you ever get a sample from the dandy, give him time. It is complex and wants to be worn more often. But you should bring a certain weakness for Chypres and not be averse to violets. ;-)

And before it gets too long..
Over & Out
Your Scentman
17 Comments
DufterMann 5 years ago 20 5
8
Bottle
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Tuxedo - a fragrance that lives up to its name
Foreword
I must confess that I no longer had great expectations of the Yves Saint Laurent brand. In recent years, in my opinion, the focus has been on flankers and mass-compatible, boring perfumes that have been planned down to the last detail and from which I could no longer derive anything. Until now I didn't know the Private Collection, but that was about to change. Through a lovely perfume I got a sample of velours and yesterday I had the chance to test Cuir and finally Tuxedo. The latter then wandered to a proud price in the shopping bag.

The fragrance, shelf life & Sillage
First of all: Le Vestiare(the wardrobe) Tuxedo lives up to its name as the headline already says. In my opinion his full potential will only be reached with the right outfit, which is certainly due to the prominent violet note at the beginning, which reminds me of a freshly ironed shirt like in Arsen Lupin Dandy. This is neatly underlaid with a britzelnden pepper note. A certain slightly fresh flower note also resonates. Bergamot and coriander, however, I do not perceive. Neither does the listed rose, which with its frequent soapy nature usually doesn't appeal to me either. Over time, the vanilla note also sparkles, giving the whole construct a certain sweetness without the fragrance drifting away. For me, the heart note is a triad of violets, vanilla and pepper, which is the main accompaniment to the perfume. The vanilla is also the base, patchouli & ambergris are rather discreet and give the whole thing no earthy but at best a slightly chocolaty, balsamic touch.
The Sillage is present in the first 2-3 hours, but not overloaded, as it belongs to a suitable occasion in the restaurant, or more sophisticated celebration. After that he gets pretty close, which doesn't have to be bad under the circumstances.
After 6-7 hours the spell is gone with me then.

The presentation
The bottle and the OVP are kept relatively simple. A lightly embossed cardboard, whereby the logo only seems to be glued on. The lid has a good grip due to the ribbing and closes very easily due to the magnet. The atomizer also does its job perfectly and distributes the amount evenly from a distance of 30 cm. Altogether the presentation for me is very solid, but also not outstanding.

Conclusion
Why the Tuxedo made it into my collection?
For me he radiates style and elegance, is never too loud but still present and violets seem to have become very rare in men's fragrances. In addition, the combination closes the gap in my collection which I would have liked to have closed with the Arsen Lupin Dandy. In my opinion it is definitely worth a test.
5 Comments
DufterMann 5 years ago 24 5
10
Bottle
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The darkness I called... and grabbed me!
Foreword:
I was fascinated by Stéphane Humbert Lucas' creations and the "Harrods" with which I booted to the Schnitzler branch and asked for a similar fragrance. It didn't take long and the saleswoman stood in front of me with a golden bottle, sprayed it onto the test strip and after a short test phase on her skin, the "Une Nuit a Doha" went straight into the shopping bag and I walked home with a smile on my face. My interest was aroused, because it was already the second fragrance from Mr. Lucas, which I like so much. So I started looking for more samples and found what I was looking for at a big perfumery. I was allowed to choose 5 samples, of which the number 1 was equal to Black Gemstone.

History:
It is said that the perfumer named the scent after the black stone in Mecca. This so coveted stone, for which so many pilgrims come to Kabaa to touch or kiss it or its fragments, has this scent at least in my imagination very well hit.

The scent:
Sprayed on and what a dark, smoky, resin-soaked cloud that made itself comfortable in my nose. The Sillage at the beginning is breathtaking. Is something like that wearable in everyday life, I wondered?
The minutes went by and slowly a smoky marzipan-like note became noticeable, giving the whole thing a sweetish touch. But if you are expecting a gourmand, you are at the wrong address. The resinous sweetness surrounded by the smoke surrounds the wearer for a few hours before he surrenders more and more to the sweetness and the resins and slowly makes room for a creamy woody note.
The further he progresses in the process, the more lovable, brighter and cuddlier he becomes. The fragrance is not presented on a test strip and does not show its full potential in the first few minutes, but only reveals its heart to those who are willing to surrender to darkness and strong charisma. For this you are rewarded with a woody sweet, only minimally smoky base that is so deep and magical that I could bathe in it.
Nevertheless I needed several attempts, 5 times I tested it and I was sure that one filling would be enough, because I would have classified it rather as difficult to carry.
But then it happened - I shared my last few drops with 2 other perfume madmen and a splash got lost on my hand and the scent went straight back into my nose. I had fallen in love and I had to have him. Not as a filling, but directly as a bottle.
I have tested him meanwhile also in the everyday life and that did not come as feared with strange looks, but as reaction: Oh, he is good, I like him!

Nevertheless I would probably not wear it every day because of its opulent charisma. I also consider him to be suitable for unisex use, even if his mostly smoky and gloomy nature is more likely to appeal to men. In a review, a tester said that he would classify him as a "4 Seasons" perfume, which I can't leave standing in the room. It's heavy, dry and quite strong, only colder autumn days, winters and cooler spring days would come to my mind. You don't need a certain outfit for him. The scent speaks for itself. ;-)
5 Comments
DufterMann 6 years ago 30 14
9
Bottle
9
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
For some a veritable confusion, for me the Holy Grail
Introduction:
I think it's been about 2 months since the lovely Parfumo TalkingHead sent me a few drops of his Chypre Palatin. The perfumer and the numerous good reviews here, especially from the people whose opinions very often agree with my own, naturally aroused my interest. Why I could only now overcome myself to write a comment worthy of the scent from my point of view, probably already explains the headline. We are definitely dealing with a fragrance that couldn't be more complex.

Bottle and packaging:
The outer packaging of the Chypre Palatin does not at first suggest a high-priced fragrance. A little bit unkind cardboard, on the front a sticker in a punched frame, where only the most important things can be seen: Name, brand, eau de parfum, content, vaporizer/ natural spray. Opening the OVP welcomes an even more cardboard box with MDCI lettering and a folding mechanism made of cardboard to secure the bottle. To be honest: unkindly implemented, just fulfils its purpose, but definitely works better when I look at other high-priced fragrances from my collection. If you then free the bottle from its gloomy home, you hold a very heavy glass bottle with a beautiful yellow-red bobble in your hand, MDCI in golden writing on the front, an equally golden lid that sits firmly on its spray head of the same colour, on the back in the same font is then still Paris printed and on the underside are then the most important information, which also stand on the packing and besides the address of CM Création & Diffusion (like those stand to MDCI, I could not find out however due to lacking French knowledge). Who now believes that I give the perfume 9 points in the category bottle, despite its lousy packaging, only because of the beautiful fragrance, is wrong. The bottle is very beautiful and above all of high quality, the atomizer does its job perfectly and MDCI apparently wanted to impress its customers with a beautiful presentation.

Description of fragrance:
Shortly after spraying on you are welcomed by a green, fresh cloud, the clementine gives the scent a little liveliness, the smell of sage candies spreads in my nose, slight hints of the top note of Chanel No 5 have an effect on me, which I attribute to aldehydes
(little side note: to make sure, the wrist of the fragrant woman just had to hold out again).
The top note lasts for some time, the clementine says goodbye and the scent becomes sharper and in the background the sweetness is also slowly noticeable, but at the moment still very, very quiet. The leather slowly emerges under the spicy note and fights for supremacy. But from a distance I still smell the ointment note, which still doesn't seem to want to admit defeat. Gradually the sweetness increases more and more, the ointment note is no longer present at all and the vanilla now takes over, slightly animal underlaid, but the green character is still maintained by the oak moss. Oakmoss and vanilla now walk hand in hand through the spice garden and conjure up a truly beautiful smell in the nose, where I still haven't had enough of it even after 2 months. There are a few scents that have managed to give me this feeling, but Chypre Palatin manages to keep this happiness for some time.
At the time I met him, unfortunately there was no bottle in the souk, the cheapest retailer price with 195 Euro plus shipping was unfortunately also no bargain, but I just had to have him and wrote Talking Head again. "If you can part with your Chypre Palatine. I've got to have it." He diced out a prize, the stars were good for me and a few days later the almost full bottle arrived together with beautiful further rehearsals. I can't say it enough, but you know how grateful I am to you for that.

So far, not a single fragrance I have tested has been able to bring in so many compliments, despite its complexity and the fact that most people around me are mainly used to designer fragrances. From "What is that nice aftershave?", to "You always smell good, but what is that you're wearing", to "You should also buy that perfume. The DufteMann smells so good today" everything was there. Chypre Palatin was also the trigger for the fact that I have tried Chypres more often lately. But no one really knocked me out. Through your comments I will definitely give Mitsouko a chance and Apicius' contribution was also very informative for me despite the scathing. Then I will now look further at the Oriental Chypres, if there is something else for me at.

Over and Out
Your ScentMan
14 Comments
DufterMann 6 years ago 31 11
10
Bottle
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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The gates to the mysterious forest open for me too
And once again I couldn't help but buy a fragrance blindly from Mr Duchaufour. But since this one seems to be a Love-it or Hate-it scent, the risk of kissing the ground with the nose was quite high. Thanks to a very dear Parfuma here, I could not resist the offer and have struck. At this point again many thanks. :-)
But since I also like Vert d'Encens so much, my fear of blind buying was a little dammed again.

So the package was quickly scissored and I was greeted by a beautiful square blue cardboard with an opulent golden flower print reminiscent of the painting of the last century. When opened, you are gleamed by the golden mirrored lid, which rests on a black roundish bottle, where again the attention to detail has not been spared. A laughing moon and a sweeping swan already show that the brand also attaches great importance to the presentation. The velvety soft fabric in which the bottle is embedded is the icing on the cake
But as we know, it's still about the content, so hand out, gold spray head actuated and up with it.

In the first moments I was a little flabbergasted. No forest far and wide in sight, however a very strong fruity sweet cassis note spreads in my nose. If the fragrance continues to develop like this, it might be better in the future if I do without blind purchases completely. At first I thought I had a woman's scent under my nose again. But if you give the fragrance a little time, the doors open to the exhilarating forest everyone here talks about. Partially dark, gloomy, resinous, then again some sunrays shine through the treetops, one currant bush follows the next and one never has the impression to stroll through an ordinary forest, even if the fir trees here definitely attract attention and together with the cassis note conjure a very unique scent into our trunk. Towards the end it becomes a little creamier, but without missing its main theme. To make things a little easier, I would say that the Vert d'Encens has been dumped in a fruit sorbet of currants.
The shelf life of just over 6 hours is in the good mid-range. The projection is very strong in the first 1-2 hours before he withdraws bit by bit. Just right and discreetly dosed, it can also be worn in the office. In my eyes he is wearable in casual outfit, as well as in a suit.

So I would say: mission successful and I can still trust my nose for blind purchases. ;-)
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