EauSavage

EauSavage

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EauSavage 3 years ago 25 11
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Bianchi on the rocks
When I asked my niche fragrance dealer in the Veedel when he expects the new Goodsir Corpus Equus, he informed me well aware of my fragrance fetishes about this new Bianchi and their new brand. I was hot right then. Then he mentioned the name - "Divine Perversion" - and now I was horny. A Bianchi with that name! And with leather! Yes! That must be it. Mentally, I had already pre-ordered him.

Back home off into the net. Hmm, the brand and fragrance name on this bottle so and at all. Is not that yet all what too striking? Continue reading, the Hedonik Store was not yet unlocked, the Instagram page for it also not, but when it was then and I saw the additional leather accessories and the fashion concept to the brand, as my skepticism grew. Fortunately, I had not pre-ordered it.

Then I was allowed to spend two days with the fragrance - thank you, dear Mr. Dubben!

Divine Perversion starts with a whole basket of gorgeous, ripe raspberries, the pink pepper gives the lush fruits enough 'pepper' that no jam needs to be spooned, here is toasted with sparkling raspberry champagne. In an interview Francesca Bianchi calls this opening phase "sparkling sweetness". Class!
For me, the rose also comes early from the heart to it, from the leather I get the first hours nothing to hardly anything, but certainly it serves subliminally, perhaps it also intercepts the artificiality of the per se synthetic fruit note. Anyway, according to Bianchi, the leather is a vertical note that dominates from beginning to end.
(By the way, should anyone think whether the combo of leather and raspberry of Tuscan Leather & Co, forget it, Divine Perversion is not in spraying proximity.)

The aforementioned first few hours are quite long, these are not top notes, these are thick head notes. The raspberry is clearly present for three, four hours and only then comes with the iris butter something of the usual Bianchi feeling. The rose has grown with that time and yes, there's caramel too, but it's dark and slightly salty, not gourmand caramel. Thank you, dear Francesca!
The heart note is more of a smooth transition and briskly everything melts into the - really beautiful, gentle base. By then, more leather has long since arrived and is increasingly widening, it is new, light leather and in harmony with wood and amber, the extract goes into a long stay. "Animal notes" I no longer perceive here, even their mention in the fragrance pyramid does not help.

Divine Perversion is absolutely successful as a concept fragrance. The brand Hedonik is about "Pleasure, elegance and sensuality" and all that I find in the fragrance again. Whether you love it so much that you find it divine is a matter of opinion, in any case, the 'Divine' came before the 'Perversion'. A friendly tester or testing friend found him namely divine.
Perversion, nada. This is a very sensual fragrance and for me just substantially distinctive enough to classify him unisex. My prediction, however, is that more women than men will wear and love him.

Francesca Bianchi said in this interview that Divine Perversion is not as daring or bold ("daring") as The Lover's Tale or Under My Skini, but also resonates with a certain animalism, but is "more relaxed."
I'll pass here. Who looks in my collection, understands me certainly better, in any case, I lacked here the force and depth, which I admire so much in my Bianchis. The raspberry hours last too long for me, the heart phase too short and the late, long base is not special enough for me against the background of my collection.

In this case, I do not (yet) give a fragrance rating. As a match to the concept would be a 10 for me, assessed as a fragrance beyond my preferences at least an 8, measured against my anticipatory, false expectations rather a 5 or 6, but that would somehow also not right.

Two days after these two days, still in the same week, then Corpus Equus arrived and has galloped blowing tail into my collection.
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EauSavage 3 years ago 37 11
9
Bottle
8
Longevity
10
Scent
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Égoïste. Excentrique. Humaniste.
1990. After the epochal classics Pour Monsieur from 1955 and Antaeus from 1981 only the 3rd perfume for men from the house of Chanel. And the first men's fragrance with sandalwood as a dominant note. And again a milestone.

Personally, I don't find Égoïste remarkably egotistical at all, I attribute that attribute much more to my beloved Antaeus than to it. Perhaps 'uncompromising' is a more appropriate word for the attitude I mean here. I'd call Égoïste Excentrique instead, but then it would have been guaranteed not to be a big seller.

I don't know if the following motives contributed to the naming, but in a historical context Égoïste was a real announcement. These were dire new times for our gender at the time, as two major waves threatened to bury us beneath them at once: The 3rd wave of the women's movement was crashing mightily on our shores, calling our gender into question altogether. And two years earlier, with Cool Water, the aquatic tsunami had found its source, we men no longer smelled not because we had showered, no, we were now to underpin qua perfume that we had really done it. And the shirt should now also no longer be unbuttoned so far, what for, the way the modern, aquatic 'man' smelled, the basic assumption was anyway that he had already shaved off his chest hair in conformity as a precaution. If any, I might add.

What was that all about, how could it come so far at all and where should it all lead to? Perhaps Jacques Polge, who had previously created Antaeus, wondered all this too.
Well, anyway, 'Égoïste' addressed certain basic needs with its grandiose advertising. I, at any rate, have yet to meet the sex comrade who doesn't want to be damned as an egoist the next morning by a whopping 35 balconies of gorgeous drama queens.
The Égoïste man, recognizable only by his hairy (!) Arm, opens the lamella doors just a crack and puts in the middle of the whole theater just very cool the flacon on the balustrade. After all, there is nothing more to say about it.
And just as the egoist does his thing, Égoïste was, in any case, once again proof that Chanel unflinchingly goes its own way.

Égoïste begins with wood and ends with wood. The eccentric drumbeat begins with rosewood, which only doesn't smell too pungent because it is softened by mahogany flanked, refreshed by mandarin and spiced by coriander. Individually, I hardly if ever notice the last three notes in isolation; they serve the overall tone. And almost immediately, the sandalwood is in orbit and we are already very close to the heart.
Now Égoïste transforms and a dark, beautiful rose grows on slivers of sandalwood. And no, it doesn't smell rosy. If you know the slightly truffled black rose from Dior Homme Parfum, you know what I'm talking about. But here it's very delicately dusted with cinnamon, quite soft yet deep. So beautiful. And soon, even very delicately gossamer tobacco leaves settle on our rose, making it spicier and darker, and the cinnamon dust grows to flake size, and now we're divinely relaxing in the base:
The cinnamon lingers, more tobacco blossoms and then ambery warm leather grows on the joints of the solid sandalwood base and as we tap on the leather, feathery clouds of vanilla rise.

Égoïste has an intangible drydown. From here on, Égoïste could no longer be called Excentrique, but quite possibly Humaniste.
It will probably forever remain a mystery to me that some associate sweet baked goods here or even develop pre-Christmas feelings. Perhaps the mere mention of 'cinnamon' is enough for that, much like citricism immediately - all too often - gives birth to toilet bowl analogies. "Nonsense!" I shout as loudly as the 35 ladies shout "Égoïste". The cinnamon here is always dry, the vanilla always dark, neither sticky or sweet, yet warming. They're sometimes contrasts, sometimes additives. And what this melange in the base transports there in distinctive, elegant friendliness, that has so much character, Laytonistas and other love-uncle scents from Marlyland and similarly mild climes can only dream of, if I may also note that. So!

Égoïste has phases yes, movements like a symphony and tempos and loudness change. But there is this one theme that runs through from beginning to end, the proverbial whole that is more than the sum of its parts, the "fragrance Égoïste" as a total sound. As befits a masterpiece.

--

Note: I apologize for any potential political incorrectness. I was just being ... selfish.
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EauSavage 3 years ago 17 8
8
Bottle
7
Longevity
10
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A straight story.
The straight story.

My new leather jacket is so chic, I don't want to wait, I have to wear it and the sky promises a beautiful day out there. So I'm off on my way.

The jacket still casually swung over my shoulder I meet the orange farmer next door, who is just finishing his morning walk in the grove, we nod to each other in wordless agreement that so only men can master, connected. I see his wife on the terrace, she is cutting lemons for a fruit salad, we smile at each other while her little daughter takes advantage of this moment of distraction to snatch some raspberries from the bowl. She waves her quickly emptied hand at me joyfully, grinning thievishly proud as she shows me her fruit-filled gap between her teeth.

Mom is of course all this not escaped and we smirk conspiratorially to. She bids farewell to my passing by pointing first to her shoulder, then to mine, and giving me an appreciative nod.

The beautiful impressions linger with me for a while. I have put on my new leather jacket by now, and I keep looking down at myself to admire its distinguished shimmer. And I have to stroke it again and again, the fabric feels so soft and precious. And how pleasant it smells!

And as I stroll along, so leather-mindedly elated, I hear a pretty tune. It is the old rose-grower humming a soft song in her garden. I like the old, graceful lady very much, but often approach her with caution, for not too seldom is she all too talkative for me. But today she seems to be quite herself and so I meet her openly and am rewarded. She looks up, pauses and after that brief moment she tells me that I must have that leather jacket new and how fantastic it looks on me and while I'm still rejoicing over that, she's already cut a rose and magically tucked it into my buttonhole. "My husband used to have one of those." And now I'm supposed to turn around. And teasingly gives me a popo slap! She's allowed to do that.

There are some plants growing along the edge of my path, but I only have one eye for my great new jacket and now I've arrived at my destination: At the old wooden bench in the clearing.
I like to carve figures for myself and so I pull out my pocket knife and the small piece of fancy wood I had chosen for today and take a seat. My new jacket has long since taken on my body temperature and I am now more aware of the leather, its fine, slightly tart, rich warmth. I breathe deeply and savor the noble scent that accompanies me the whole way home, my new wooden figure in my left hand. It is - with beautiful curves - an elegant woman sculpture.

--

Colonia Leather is an inviting but not prompting leather scent with fine manners and in essence just and 'only' that. Similar to how the impressions and encounters on my little hike embellished the way to the destination, the additional fragrance notes in Colonia Leather only form an aura polish. They don't shape its character, they don't even consolidate it, they cast purposefully accentuating highlights on its noble shape. Beneath and in and above everything, noble leather always swings and floats. Straight, pure elegance
8 Comments
EauSavage 4 years ago 10 5
7
Bottle
7
Longevity
8
Scent
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God Save the Queen!
Hach! Those pretty little flacons with the little crown on them! Published in 2002 for the Golden Throne Anniversary of Elizabeth II. I confess, this is what I wanted and my soft spot for the good old days, by which I mean the culture of barbershops, and a sympathy for traditional, small family houses made a purchase all the more inevitable..
Geo F. Trumper offers many interesting fragrances, but because of my admiration for Égoïste, I chose the fragrance for my first flacon king with the crown. It was the fragrance that first drew my attention to this small, traditional family business.

The previous speakers have already given excellent comments and descriptions of fragrances and I agree with all of them. However, I would like to go into two details that make it worthwhile for me to make a further comment and make Sandalwood Cologne exciting for me:

Pepper:
Nowhere is it listed as a note, but every now and then, when I sniffed the notes, pepper came to my mind. Not strong, not clear, but spicy enough for a fine perceptibility pepper resonates for me. And lo and behold, looking up Geo F. Trumper's website, I find this in their description: "Exudes a hint of pepper." ("... whilst woody warm murmurs exude the suggestion of pepper from its sumptuous depths ...")

Cinnamon:
No chance. At least it's not listed anywhere and at least my nose can't get it in.

And here I am at the point: Sandalwood Cologne is definitely a gem. His independence - in contrast to Égoïste - is his fouger and more citrusy performance at the beginning, right down to the base, and his tart spice before the drydown, until he is a gentleman at the long end. I don't really use leather and tobacco is not included. For a cologne the durability is by the way in the range of stable EdTs

Sandalwood Cologne does not have the depth and interweaving of Égoïste. Konsalik had already used the term before: Sandalwood Cologne is more angular. In a good sense, more straightforward, and for all the similarity in the general scent silhouette, the differences are strong enough that I can recommend Sandalwood Cologne as a complement to Égoïste. I can also recommend Égoïste because this friendly and distinctive Englishman has no cinnamon in his luggage and with its uncreamy clarity is much more summer-compatible!

Finally a hint:
There is an affordable shaving balm from Geo. F. Trumper for before and after shaving, the name is "Sandalwood Skin Food". A nice fluid, slightly refreshing and disinfecting, as it contains a little alcohol, but above all it is caring and then calming. And just with this beautiful scent!

The 'Flakönchen mit dem Krönchen' I have also honoured with a photo, which will probably be released here soon.
5 Comments
EauSavage 4 years ago 6 5
9
Bottle
10
Scent
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Welcome to the Florida Keys! (+ I got news 4U.)
It was the beautiful empty bottles, which made me want to order something from Lehmann. But as nice as this company with tradition is, I couldn't get past some of the fragrances. And to satirize Adenauer: "People always shave." I certainly did, and so Laguna was the first thing on my shopping list

As straightforward as the descriptions are typical of Lehman, the association that has given this after shave its name is for me full of the twelve: Laguna - South Sea sunshine fresh
And now I'm already starting to sweat, because I just don't want to succeed in determining any scent. Yes, it's fresh, but I don't perceive any citric acid or menthol. And it's sunny, but I can't identify the source of the heat. It's not wood. That's another reason why I can't say how much Laguna After Shave has in common with the eau de cologne of the same name. The notes mentioned in the two comments on the cologne don't give me an "Aha, yes, that's right!" moment for the After Shave. Vetiver is still my strongest guess.

Anyway, the sun is shining so beautiful and warm and magnificent and Laguna delivers the total South Sea feeling, but without aquatic life - just under palm trees. A tropical mystery! In the fiery highlights of my violent sunstroke I see my Eau Sauvage After Shave flacon in front of me, a dark-skinned beauty in a beach bikini with wiggly hips wrapping a gorgeous flower chain around it and smilingly shouting Aloha! to me. Here at the After Shaves I am exclusively among men, so I can let my daydreams run free with impunity

Laguna After Shave really inspires me! The low price including the beautiful, simple pouring bottle is just the icing on the cake. Will be reordered!™
The water quickly becomes very close, but stays there for a few hours. At least on my arm. So whoever is allowed to cuddle directly after shaving should reap a pleasant purr. On the face it's gone faster and you can spray classics like Guerlain Vetiver, Eau Sauvage or others from the yellow-green area even for a short time without any really competing but partly complementary elements.

One more piece of information: I think it was the highly esteemed MonsieurTest who had mentioned here in a commentary reply that Lehmann had registered four new fragrances. In a telephone conversation with Lutz Lehmann I expressed my joy about Laguna and that it would be a great thing as EdP and ... *drum roll* ..., the man said that one would come in that direction! He didn't have a name for it, but it's supposed to be 'Naples' or 'Miami'. As long as it's Florida!
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