What Is Your Favourite Era in Perfume?
Most of all I like Now. Nearly half the fragrances that I own and wear were composed since 2000 and, regardless of when composed, the vast majority of the juice was put in a bottle within the last few years.
What I like about Now:
the variety and quality of raw materials available to perfumers;
widespread application of Headspace technology in commercial perfumery;
novel ingredients;
increasing concern for environmental safety;
the deconstruction/disintegration of the natural/artificial binary;
the rise of Indie and Niche bringing diversity;
upstarts and start-ups aroma-bombing the market monopoly of the designer brands. feeling a little shaky perhaps about their leading monetised "luxury goods" big brands are now sometimes throwing us a better smelling bone;
compositional innovation: such an abundant field has room for experimentation;
dipping the lid to C20 - many scent designers mix up genres and gender and history and fashion in their beakers;
I appreciate the aesthetics of other eras through the necessarily imaginative/romantic goggles I don to do so and fragrance is one of the loveliest and most flexible facilitators of such play;
and that, even now, I can still be surprised.
example Now fragrances:
Une Fleur de Cassie by Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle;
Bois des Iles Chanel les Exclusifs;
Aurelain Guichard's reorchestration of Baghari for Robert Piguet;
#203 Violet Empire CB I Hate Perfume;
Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons.