Efemmeral
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Efemmeral
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I'm wearing the 1990s EdT, the one in the very upright chiseled fan shape bottle with the comically huge blue plastic lid. Of all the Shalimars I own in different concentrations and vintages, this one is most bliss-some beginning to end.
The rindy citrus tingle begins it, and it is my private pleasure, enough to energise and propel me into the Big World.
Out there I ride the warm rich vanilla and smoky leather. I might never leave the house if it began so, thank heaven for bergamot. The warm base wears pretty close, but the fragrance casts also a floral veil - sillage enough to draw comments when hugging and dancing. One hugger mentioned iris, but couldn't ID the fragrance (which he *does* know well), and it is true, the iris is clear and lovely, a little mist weaving its way through the composition.
Although it may be true that I perspire IsoE (my skin seems to floralise and prettify everything) I do feel the florals are a little more pronounced in this version than others I've tried, and yesterday, although the notes say Tonka Bean, I was aware of a delicious light heliotrope.
I felt wonderful wearing this. I can't say how long it lasted, it was a background bliss for hours, but when I went swimming under a dark sky I felt sure I smelled it breathe its last 8 hours in.
On a scale of 10 I give it an I Love You (and how very nice, you love me too).
The rindy citrus tingle begins it, and it is my private pleasure, enough to energise and propel me into the Big World.
Out there I ride the warm rich vanilla and smoky leather. I might never leave the house if it began so, thank heaven for bergamot. The warm base wears pretty close, but the fragrance casts also a floral veil - sillage enough to draw comments when hugging and dancing. One hugger mentioned iris, but couldn't ID the fragrance (which he *does* know well), and it is true, the iris is clear and lovely, a little mist weaving its way through the composition.
Although it may be true that I perspire IsoE (my skin seems to floralise and prettify everything) I do feel the florals are a little more pronounced in this version than others I've tried, and yesterday, although the notes say Tonka Bean, I was aware of a delicious light heliotrope.
I felt wonderful wearing this. I can't say how long it lasted, it was a background bliss for hours, but when I went swimming under a dark sky I felt sure I smelled it breathe its last 8 hours in.
On a scale of 10 I give it an I Love You (and how very nice, you love me too).
Sublime Sorrow
Not only the most, but the only melancholy fragrance I own is RP Futur. Yet her beauty brings me such pleasure. I fall into this dark green fragrance and fall and fall all her long life.
She lacks the defences of other green fragrances: she does not dissemble. There is no tough leather like sister Bandit, no haughty iris, no sparkle and zest of citrus, no splinter or seduction of woods, no galvanising metallic notes. No booze even to redirect her sorrow.
She is direct, exquisite and bereft. Her limpid florals, her lactonic kindness, the purity of her soapiness. The deep uncharted darkness of her cool damp patchouli.
She suffers yet proffers only joy.
She lacks the defences of other green fragrances: she does not dissemble. There is no tough leather like sister Bandit, no haughty iris, no sparkle and zest of citrus, no splinter or seduction of woods, no galvanising metallic notes. No booze even to redirect her sorrow.
She is direct, exquisite and bereft. Her limpid florals, her lactonic kindness, the purity of her soapiness. The deep uncharted darkness of her cool damp patchouli.
She suffers yet proffers only joy.
Ho Hum
Ludicrous faux Asian name that I find nearly as annoying as "oriental" being the name of a fragrance category. Trying to translate these phonemes in Mandarin gave "back alleys" or "waiting line". Vietnamese offered the slightly more promising "relatives", whereas the Filipinos sensibly declined to be drawn on the matter.
But how does it smell? Well, like Switzerland actually. Plenty of fresh air and sunshine, ever so well groomed, and neutrally poised between trad. EdC, soapy barbershop, herbal fougère and yes, perhaps even a whisper of "Oriental" through a very muted vanillatonkabenzoin contribution.
No Asians, 'Hos or back alleys in sight, this is a lemony fresh scent with a hearty geranium and lavender riding on a smooth soapy base. Nothing to excite, but it won't get you bombed either.
But how does it smell? Well, like Switzerland actually. Plenty of fresh air and sunshine, ever so well groomed, and neutrally poised between trad. EdC, soapy barbershop, herbal fougère and yes, perhaps even a whisper of "Oriental" through a very muted vanillatonkabenzoin contribution.
No Asians, 'Hos or back alleys in sight, this is a lemony fresh scent with a hearty geranium and lavender riding on a smooth soapy base. Nothing to excite, but it won't get you bombed either.
A Mathematical Approach
My fragrance librarian friend has a small bottle of this scent. In honour of my birthday this year she opened it for the first time despite having had it some time. Truly spoiled!
We put a decent schmear on my arm, and the strongest associations I had were for the cool rooty iris of Iris Silver Mist, and my delectable syrupy bottle of Mitsouko.
I scampered off to fetch both those bottles and made a fragrance continuum on my arm. The reality held up to the idea.
So if, as for most folk, you have no access to Iris Gris, but have handy supplies of the others, do the next best thing. Dab on those two, get out your protractors and differentiate the gradient of the curve between the two you know to find the value of "x" (Iris Gris).
We put a decent schmear on my arm, and the strongest associations I had were for the cool rooty iris of Iris Silver Mist, and my delectable syrupy bottle of Mitsouko.
I scampered off to fetch both those bottles and made a fragrance continuum on my arm. The reality held up to the idea.
So if, as for most folk, you have no access to Iris Gris, but have handy supplies of the others, do the next best thing. Dab on those two, get out your protractors and differentiate the gradient of the curve between the two you know to find the value of "x" (Iris Gris).
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Celestial harmony
One measure of great works of art is their ability to encompass and bear witness to disparate and diverse reaches of human understanding. Artistry reveals larger truths through combination and juxtaposition of elements and experience without ever distorting or diminishing those parts of the resolved whole.
This Molook - with its sonorous, smouldering, sauve, soaring, smooth, salty, sensual qualities all shimmering in perfect resolved harmony - this Molook is a stunning work of art.
The Ta'if rose is at once fresh, dried *and* jammy. What cruel magic is this?!? Whilst the piquancy and backbone of ouds, sustinato sandalwood, and the savour and seduction of ambergris... all singing celestial chords to provide an endless stage for the full-bodied rose to sing his full-throated song.
My body vibrates with the sound of this scent.
A choir of angels. Dirty sexy beautiful angels.
This Molook - with its sonorous, smouldering, sauve, soaring, smooth, salty, sensual qualities all shimmering in perfect resolved harmony - this Molook is a stunning work of art.
The Ta'if rose is at once fresh, dried *and* jammy. What cruel magic is this?!? Whilst the piquancy and backbone of ouds, sustinato sandalwood, and the savour and seduction of ambergris... all singing celestial chords to provide an endless stage for the full-bodied rose to sing his full-throated song.
My body vibrates with the sound of this scent.
A choir of angels. Dirty sexy beautiful angels.
