The Oriental, The Ancient, and The Sacred

Last year, ZARA released an Exclusive collection that includes four pieces signed by Jo Malone. I only discovered them now, and I got hold of three pieces. Zara Exclusive N°03 - Universal Oud is available in the stores, while Zara Exclusive N°04 - Leather Jardin and Zara Exclusive N°01 - Incense Sunset are only available online on the official website of the store. The first, namely Universal Oud, is a perfume with oriental traits, of those that the Montale house likes so much, and makes use of smoky, rosy, and slightly medicinal accords. Following is Leather Jardin, a perfume I took blindly and pleasantly surprised me. With an ancient flavour, the years of the Great Depression are the primary inspiration for the fragrance; it uses almost obsolete, austere, dense accords, rich in opulent dark flowers. Finally, Incense Sunset is a mystical fragrance that brings to mind places of worship and meditation and uses citrus and resinous accords to recreate the slightly smoky atmosphere of churches, mosques, and meditative oases. The entire collection uses sturdy boxes that open like a book, in bright colours, and the bottles are those already used by Jo Malone’s previous creations, this time equipped with a golden and knurled cap. Are you curious to savour these delights? Follow me here for first impressions, and then you can follow the most meticulous reviews.

The Oriental - Universal Oud

Universal Oud is like a meditative incense stick. When you spritz it, it fills the room with a mysterious, soothing, and calming aroma of smoky rosy oud. It opens with a familiar rose aroma; however, it feels sweeter and dirtier than other rose scents. But that’s what makes it so good. Smelling this perfume, I mainly take semi-medicinal oud, earthy rose, and bitter chocolate. These notes work together in perfect harmony. It smells opulent and elegant, with a little feminine slant from the rose, but men can also make it if they have style. The oud here isn’t too overwhelming. You know it’s there, but it’s not centre stage. The rose is as if someone had slightly dipped it in chocolate.

Continue reading A Meditative Incense Stick

The Ancient - Leather Jardin

Leather Jardin is the perfume of the Great Depression, between the two big World Wars. I smell this dry and austere perfume, and I can’t help but think of a movie star or a jazz set crooner rocking this beauty. Of course, I must admit that it is polarising, highly questionable, and divisive. It may look outdated, venerable, or old-fashioned from other times, but it’s actually very modern, almost futuristic. It is a riot of archaic notes, chypre oak mosses, dark flowers, and drenched leather. Mind-blowing. You must search into old-school territory if you want to find something analogous to this precious gem.

Continue reading The Scent of Empires

The Sacred - Incense Sunset

Incense Sunset is gentle, intimate, and delicate like snow. It is never too feminine or too masculine, but a citrus and incensed cologne. I was expecting something intense and austere. Instead, the scent starts with a sweet and sour taste with carrot reflections, passing to a soapy and dry heart, with a smoky finish of creamy incense. On the clothes, a citrusy incense accord prevails, while on the skin, the smoky incense is more marked with almost clerical but never annoying implications.

Continue reading Medina’s Ancient Biblical Scent

And now only Zara Exclusive N°02 - Ancestral Papyrus remains. Is there anyone out there who can say a few words about this fragrance? I am very pleased to know what emotions it gives and imagine the scent of her in my head.

-Elysium