ElysiumElysium's Perfume Reviews

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Elysium 15 hours ago
Wake Up And Smell The Saffron
Saffron is as old as time. Sometimes thought of as the King of Spice is most popularly known for imparting food with its unique flavoring and rich golden hue. Historically, saffron has been used for thousands of years to cure a myriad of diseases and injuries. Cleopatra was said to bathe in saffron-infused mare's milk before seeing a suitor. Saffron was used to dyeing the woolen bolero jackets worn by Minoan women; also in cosmetics, where it was mixed with red ochre, tallow, and beeswax to make lipstick. Often, people are curious about the 'saffron smell.' Just a touch of it in a perfume adds a bitter yet sweet note, which some describe as being earthy or even a bit like honey. It has a leathery aspect to it too, which is perhaps why it complements exotic ingredients very well.

A l'Iris is like an elegant noblewoman seated in the saffron red velvet of the opera house and lost in the bubbling pastel silk of her dress. Her neck, set with pearly pearls, suggests an amber skin. Her golden hair is expertly assembled in a lacquered bun. In the hollow of the curls, an iris, a flowered diadem of this discreet highness.

A l'Iris, like all the other six perfumes of the collection, was realized through essential rules, no limits to the quality of the raw materials used, minimalist packaging with paper, wood, and glass from eco-sustainable sources. The only protagonist is the fragrance that describes and enhances, in its deepest essence, an authentic and shared passion for the Art of Perfume.

Amidst the six Eau de Parfums in the collection, I choose A l'Iris precisely for that boozy, chalky, bitter, sharp, and penetrating aura that surrounds its fresh brightness—its many facets are capable of telling a romance. Its nobility requires a full-bodied alliance.

The Nathalie Feisthauer's masterpiece belongs to the floral, woody, and musky family. It opens with a blast of the boozy accord, I have no clue whether it is the alcohol of the essence or a booze note not mentioned, but I like it. As soon as the boozy tone calms down, a raunchy-smelling resembling semen pops up, indulgent fruity, delicate, sweet, a bit musky, and that is the pear, a bit too strong during the opening fainting a gourmand frag which it is not. In all this boozy and dirty sensuous accord, the bergamot is lost in the background and nearly perceivable. There's something incredibly animal that could be indolic in there, which increases sexual pleasure. And I like it!

If you can't wait to savor the heart in bloom, you may be disappointed. The iris, which should have the bearing of a queen's head, is nothing but a chalky, powdery, green, but not buttery nor creamy accord that gets more shouty as the scent settles. The concrete of Iris Pallida Florentina is blended here, the creamy, solidified oil derived from the flower and not from the bulb. Instead, the lily-of-the-valley dominates the ring and shares its sovereignty with the golden saffron whose frank color, the leathery effect draws a noble decor. The saffron is present since the very beginning, and there is no mistake, it has a gourmand tone and reminiscent of the Milanese risotto, a traditional northern Italy dish where saffron savors the risotto. There is more than a pinch of saffron, which magnifies its multiple facets and invigorates its temporal progression.

Moss acts as a background to smooth out all the harshness, adds depth, and makes it a little dusty. I perceive the atmosphere of saffron leather, and I do not find it too earthy, the vetiver is green and relaxing with dark underwater quality. Ambrette adds a delicate sweetness to the perfume, neither dry nor woody, but all too animal and musky. The overall base is neat and a bit soapy.

A l'Iris is a small amount of everything. Musk mellow, mossy in general, pears, exploit of saffron, and above all is the lily-of-the-valley but traces of iris only. I wonder why they called it "A l'Iris", ain't a dominant note here. Sillage is quite soft, and what comes to my mind is crisp, white linen freshly-taken-in from hanging on a line, but not just any linen: this is fine, hand-embroidered with sparse gold threads. It is a warm-weather scent for spring days at work or in leisure.

It is a pity that this perfume, together with all the other six in the collection, has not received the success and the prize it deserves. This is a very interesting perfume and not for everyone, the beauty of inner silence. But that's fine because I wasn't disappointed, on the contrary. It's such a sexy scent, and complex and constantly evolving, absolutely astounding! I use to think it was one of the most feminine fragrances of the collection, but it does work great on a man too! The saffron adds a dry and cold impression that gives a really special signature, really unique and original.


Elysium 38 hours ago
A Caress, A Kiss On The Neck
A White Lady is a type of female ghost, typically adorned in a white dress or similar garment, reportedly seen in rural areas and associated with local legends of tragedy. It is varyingly known as the Dryad of Death, Queen of the Dead, and the Crone form of the Goddess. She is correlated with death, destruction, and annihilation. White Lady legends are found in many countries around the world, and it is interesting to remark that on Wikipedia, there are various stories, one for each country, all different one another. Familiar with many of these legends is an accidental death, murder, or suicide, and the theme of loss, betrayal by a husband or fiance, and unrequited love. Is La Dame Blanche, or the White Lady of the title, therefore, the classic ghost that populates the long-abandoned rooms of the castle of Avenel, which classically dominates a Scottish village? Who knows.

Of course, what I know is that La Dame Blanche is like a kiss, initially domineering, then light as a blow of the wings of a bird in flight. Greedy lips, like two petals, snap and slide with laziness, a Muslin caress that draws a ghostly embrace. It evokes a tenacious softness that touches and embraces. Julie Massé has a taste for the opulent and intense tuberose, and this fragrance turns around it, like the vaporous sweetness of a caress, and a kiss on the neck.

La Dame Blanche, like all the other six perfumes of the collection, was realized through essential rules, no limits to the quality of the raw materials used, minimalist packaging with paper, wood, and glass from eco-sustainable sources. The only protagonist is the fragrance that describes and enhances, in its deepest essence, an authentic and shared passion for the Art of Perfume.

Amidst the six Eau de Parfums in the collection, I favour La Dame Blanche precisely for that opulent, delicate, intense nimbus that surrounds its fresh brightness—a vaporous, light, an almost heavenly dimension with a more complex and mysterious effect.

The masterpiece belongs to the floriental family. It opens with a very gentle blend of citrus peels and fresh berries. The lemon is not too sour, yet is pleasantly sparkling, and is complemented by the black currant that smells like a rich, sweet, fruity blend of juicy wild berries and ripe currant. This prelude lasts a short while, and as it fades, it yields room for the fleshy diva, the living tuberose from Grasse hills.

The heart is absolute, in any sense, given that it consists of two blossom queens, the absolute of tuberose and May rose. I find the heavenly tuberose here not too bossy, prominent, carnal, usually known for its intensity and heady notes, but a bit more velvety and smoggy thanks to the smoothness and softness of the rose. At the same time, the rose is not an old-lady rose; it is not all too oriental like the middle east attar. Instead, it is a delicate, succulent, lush, and fragrant May rose from Grasse, the pale pink flower that blooms in May, and whose flowers are at the heart of more than a few famous fragrances.

And then comes the dry down. Very hushed notes of cocoa and a whisper of spices appear as the heart fades. I was expecting a soft and warm vibe similar to CH Good Girl, ZARA Ganache Tonka, or PR Pure XS Night; instead, the resulting smell is more mossy and musky. As far as I know, La Dame Blanche features cocoa resinoid, a sort of cocoa powder roasted, which exhibits a compelling dark chocolate profile and a slightly bitter note, though I have no clue if it is what I get here. Notwithstanding, I get a musky undertone the day after, even though neither musk nor moss is mentioned.

Don't be tricked by the name; this scent is warm, not pale. It is magnificent on my skin and nothing of the usual bite of white flower drama from the tuberose, a flower that usually generates reactions of the type love it or hate it. If you typically run away from tuberose, you do not have to worry, here is not remarkable. It lasts a very long time on my skin for over half a day. Silage is medium. Perfumer Julie Massé has created a gem that has class and elegant charm that is both modern and reminiscent of the Beautiful Epoch. It is a perfume that embraces the history of perfume while looking to the future, exquisite and refined, subtle, and masterfully blended. It could be worn day and night, at work or in leisure. Winter has just gone as I write this, and I'm looking forward to wearing this often in warmer weather, too, to see how it presents itself.


Elysium 3 days ago
Why Is My Mouth Watering So Much?
If the perfume were a sensation, then L'Eau à la bouche would be a joy. Joy is lively, and it bursts, it explodes. It also sparkles. Escaping bubbles of inebriation, tangy, almost sweet. Joy has the colours of the jungle, a profusion of wet yellows, greens, and blacks. Joy sounds like a percussive cymbal, and it resonates deeply. Cécile Matton has a taste for sharing, puts mouth water like a mojito on a terrace in summer.

L'Eau à la bouche, like all the other six perfumes of the collection, was realized through essential rules, no limits to the quality of the raw materials used, minimalist packaging with paper, wood, and glass from eco-sustainable sources. The only protagonist is the fragrance that describes and enhances, in its deepest essence, an authentic and shared passion for the Art of Perfume.

Amidst the six Eau de Parfums in the collection, I fancy L'Eau à la bouche precisely for that disrespectful, cheerful, joyous nimbus that surrounds its fresh glow—engaging without constraints, disengaged in its spontaneous and devouring odorous aspect. A cocktail dosed in delight and delicacy.
The masterpiece belongs to the citric and aromatic family. It opens sour sharp with inviting graceful notes of lemon and mint that makes your mouth water, so fresh and sparkling, and it always fascinates me. In the first minutes, the cologne is citrus and green.

The heart is made more intense and intriguing by the essence of white rum, which gives it a slightly sugary but decided look. The resulting blend reminds me of a Mojito cocktail on a summer patio, with its combination of sweetness, citrus, and herbaceous mint flavours intended to complement the rum. Mojito is one of my favourites summer cocktails, together with Caipirinha.

As the boozy accord fades, as if the ice cubes have melted in it, the dry down rises, suspended in a calm slow and announced harmony of sweet exotic softness with gurjum, patchouli and sandalwood. Here there is an idea of ​​a Cuban drink that you spin with a pencil, the rum that celebrates inebriation, the wet leaves of undergrowth, the ebony wood that flows. When it cools down, a luscious note comes up quite weird! It's not sugar, and not vanilla, not candy, and not chocolate. It's like a slightly sweetened fruit gum! I guess it's the gurjun somehow, but there is some delightful sweet note in here that changed the blend upside down and made it pleasant. The colder it goes, the more the sweet exposes and gets near to rum.
But, wait a moment, what the hell gurjun is? Gurjun balsam is an oleoresin exuded from trees of the Dipterocarpus species which grow in various parts of Asia, and it is gently warm, sweet and sophisticated. The soft fragrance is woody, sweet, dry, balsamic and resinous with hints of pine, patchouli, and camphor, and it is superbly calming and centering.

The perfume comes as an EDP, which is supposed to be longevous. On my skin, it projects smoothly, yet it lasts quite a few hours, almost all day if I wear it in the morning. The notes and the resulting accords make me reach for it during the latest warm days of spring and all summertime. It is safe for the office and suits the evening out with friends.


Elysium 6 days ago
What Is a Sartorialist?
Famed Italian haute couture brand Pal Zileri offers the perfect fragrance suited for each season and occasion, and today I would like to introduce you to Pal Zileri Classic, the scent of a sartorialist. So we know what sartorial means, but what's a sartorialist? The definition of a Sartorialist is someone interested in or practices sartorialism, a well-dressed man, or something so modern and new that people just haven't caught up with the trend yet.

I got this frag incidentally, and blindly. While searching cyberspace for bargains, I came across Pal Zileri Classic. It is like a suit, and suits are full of joy. They're the sartorial equivalent of a baby smiling.
It opens with an effusive melon note singing a solo while still in harmony with a chorus of apple, mint, and citrus. The fruity apple-honeydew melon combo is overwhelming, it hits you straight away, then comes to the bittersweet grapefruit, and ultimately the pepperiness of the mint.

Lavender is listed at the top, but I assume it transitions the top and heart notes of a pretty dainty rose and green violet leaf duet. This is green and aromatic but in a slight shiny sort of way that is not ostensible in other melon-topped scents for men. It also has a metallic and watery feel to it.

The drydown is just that dry, full of mellow amber, rooty vetiver, and earthy oakmoss that steal the spotlight from sandalwood sweet. The notes that make up the accord are outstanding. Melon, green apple, violet leaf, aromatic herbs, and all the other soil-like components. It reads like an all-star cast. The mossy and musky tones are animal, the oakmoss is reminiscent of manly mushrooms instead of tender blue raspberries.

It's not a sillage monster, but longevity is better than average. This is the perfect work or school scent where it stays close, but those who get close will enjoy and experience the sweet but smooth sheer green bliss. For the men who work in an office but still want to have a little sweetness in their life. It's an outdoors, ideal for a night out, a sunshine fragrance that works in warm seasons, and cold weather as well. Extremely good when you just want to feel energized, fresh, optimistic.

It's straightforward fresh and masculine. Another under-appreciated one. Very sharp and fruity but remains masculine. Very lovely, manly yet clean with a brisk sea breeze vibe to it.


Elysium 7 days ago
Happy May Day! Magnolia The Great
Let's talk about one of the iconic flowers that evoke the month of May: Magnolia. It smells like the way it looks: creamy, velvety and exotic. It can be described as having a delicate creamy floral scent with a hint of lemon, spice, and vanilla. You can smell the lovely flowers of the Magnolia Grandiflora tree blooming from early spring through the summer. Magnolia is a flower evocative of the Asian culture and is also one of Louisiana State symbols. Creamy magnolia blooms in the crisp spring air are the fulfillment of a gardener's winter dream. The scent is released in the fresh morning air when the petals are adequately hydrated, and again in the late afternoon when direct sunlight passes away from the flowers. A quick sniff of magnolia flowers at any time is sure to reveal a pleasing fragrance; a few blooms in water perfume a room. As soon as I find myself under one of these Magnolia trees, my steps invariably slow and I dawdle a little to savor the scent. My lingering under the magnolia tree isn't entirely innocent, the fragrance is sensual and turns on my human brain!

First things first, there are four main faces in the smell of Magnolia: the green, the woody, the aroma of white flowers, and the creamy, almost milky note. Why do I like Monotheme's magnolia scent? Now I will reveal it to you. The cologne greets you with a blend that expresses its smoothness already in the top notes, where green chords cleverly intertwine with fresh citrus notes. There is a creamy, indolic, and very white floral accord. Some modest citruses keep it clean and lifted before the scent slowly advances towards the richer, warmer, and sweeter heart, although that citrus backbone does hang around; more on that later. Nevertheless, the opening is nearly full of sweet citrus accords.

After a fresh opening, it takes on an almost salty character. Flattered by a bouquet of white flowers, allegedly jasmine, the grace of Magnolia explodes in the heart, which, majestic and noble, celebrates a well-bred beauty. White flowers bring radiance and fruity smoothness to the composition.

I've been wearing this one spray for good two-three hours and have yet to arrive at the woodier and muskier drydown. The citrus is gone. Instead, along with the faint creamy and grassy vibe, I get a slight whiff of something herbaceous. It could be basil, I don't know, but it's there on my masculine skin. I love aromatic herbal notes in sweet perfumes, so this is a plus for me. I think this is a bridge to the woods. When the woody facet comes, it is all about blonde woods, a blend of almost rosewood and the smoother, more milky silkiness sandalwood. The dry down of the composition lastly seals its emotional charge, thanks to a winning combination of intense woody notes and the most refined musky touches.

Monotheme's Magnolia is a glowing art crafted from the duality amid creamy wood tones and delicate floral notes, with subtle green and white accents. It can rock about in the daytime, in a suit, at a wedding, an elegant luncheon, dinner or other events. It is sensual and dramatic without being blatantly seductive. Perfect for spring and summertime.

As a side note, Monotheme is a collection of perfumes born in Venice and based on single-theme fragrances, created by Lorenzo Vidal from precious essential oils to cover the entire perfume variety. All the scents draw their inspiration from a single prevalent raw ingredient, Magnolia, in this case, without scratchiness, chemical nastiness, or the mighty, ambroxan, iso-E super, or excessive amounts of white musk. I am shocked how much this perfume resembles Essence No 2 Gardenia from Elie Saab.


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