ElysiumElysium's Perfume Reviews

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Elysium 10 hours ago 1
9
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
8
Bottle
Miracle Tea & Spices
What is this magical elixir of life that is also the second most-consumed drink in the world, right after water itself? Tea.
Put simply, all tea comes from the Camellia Sinensis plant. Over time hundreds, if not thousands of varieties have emerged, but they are essentially all the same plant. Herbal "teas" are not teas in the true sense of the word, but are actually "herbal teas". The many different types of tea essentially fall into the broad categories of Green, White, Oolong, Black, Puerh and even the lesser-known and a rather rare Yellow. Many factors differentiate each tea from the other, including the territory, how the teas were grown, whether they were shaded or not, what time of day they were harvested, and most importantly: how they were processed and how much the teas are oxidized. Oxidation is the process that darkens the teas, and the treatment or processing that the leaves undergo, together with the moment in which they undergo it, determines the aromatic profile and whether the tea will be Green, White, Oolong, Black o Puerh.

Today I would like to introduce you to "L'Eau de Thé Vert | Labeau", my last buy from this Spanish brand. Although the fragrance is classified as fresh, fruity, and floral, to my nose, the essence is somewhat built around a fougére accord due to the presence of bergamot, lavender, rose, vetiver and musk. The overture is herbaceous and tangy, with a massive dose of hay-like lavender, sour citrus peels, and green foliage. Right off the bat, I had the impression of a modern fougére barbershop accord, pleasant and refreshing. My skin highlights the aromatic nuance of the lavender, whereas the paper strip releases the zestiness of the lemon, orange, and bergamot fruits. This mix of herbs and citrus hide a bit of the gentle rose, which is tamed and powdered. If you've come across this perfume, and avoided it thinking it was another green tea fragrance, say "Green Tea (Eau Parfumée) | Elizabeth Arden" or "Green Tea | Victor", well you were wrong. The opening notes are very distant from the classic ones of green tea fragrances, and I perceive dry, milky, and shady nuances as if among the ingredients, there were fig leaves, but more likely is the hasty announcement of the cedar shavings.

The more it enters the middle stage, the more it gets intriguing. Lavender moves behind the scenes, but remains available as a background note, giving way to the spices and foliage. The essence of tea is represented here by the maté, whose leaves belong to the Llex Paraguariensis plant, unlike the green tea, which is produced with the young leaves of the Camellia Sinensis. I suppose it is this note that makes the difference between this and an ordinary green tea perfume. In the mixture, I can catch the mentholated aspect of green cardamom, the essence of cedar that is present from the beginning, and the slight sourness of the blackcurrant leaves. Instead, I don't get the strong, spicy, pungent smell of cloves at all.

L'Eau de Thé Vert remains almost stable on these chords until it approaches the bottom. A clean veil of white musk slowly rises from the skin, along with earthy and green vetiver, and creamy facets of sandalwood. Not too musky, earthy or woody, but fair and surprising. Ambergris adds a hint of saltiness, making the final phase a little marine and fresh. To be a perfume that takes its name from green tea is by no means trivial. As you can guess from the notes listed in the olfactory pyramid, the perfume is balanced, well structured, and never too citrus, green, spicy, or woody. The ingredients are dosed so well that the result is long-lasting, refreshing, and very pleasant to the nose flavoured water.

L'Eau de Thé Vert is an impeccably balanced green tea fragrance with citrus, floral and delicate hints of wood. It is your ideal companion for the office, a lazy weekend with friends, and for evening events. The best seasons to wear it, in my opinion, are from late spring to early fall. It is a bit too fresh and light to afford the chilly days of winter. So delicate, both projection and longevity are moderate, but I don't care as I can reapply, and it costs next to nothing.

I base the review on a 60ml bottle I have owned since May 2022.

-Elysium
Elysium 1 day ago 2
9
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
8
Bottle
Retro Bridal Bouquet Style
Striking red and white rosebuds blend easily with the white freesias, jasmine stellar, and citrus blossoms in the gorgeous vintage rose bouquet. With deep pink and purple tones, this bouquet makes a wonderful gift for a friend or loved one. Starting from a concept of a fragrance with an adult but vintage nature, in this perfume, one rose after another blends to create its ancient bouquet. To recreate the vintage atmosphere of this bouquet, the master perfumer, or perfumers, might have blended a whole series of roses, including Amnesia, Mentha, Safi, Old Dutch and Majolika varieties. To these queens, white flowers of the lily of the valley, jasmine, and orange are added, and they completed the bouquet with a heavenly smell containing patchouli leaves, some musky grass, and a sprinkling of salt crystals as a finishing touch.

Vintage Rose greets me with an explosion of dark floral arrangements. Besides that flood of flowers, I get a superior, dark, and deep musky rose. It is not an old-fashioned rose, with an outdated or stale flavour, but it is like a high-quality wine, which improves as it ages. There are some camphor shades as if someone had placed the rose stem in an old trunk along with mothballs, which I assume come from the mix of rose petals and patchouli leaves. I let the initial outburst tone down, like the flow of waves continually crashing at the bottom of sweet nothing, and the faintest notes of the neroli rise and merge with the rose, without overpowering or dominating it. It is not a perfume in which citrus flowers predominate. Roses are the queens of this fragrance.

I realize that the perfume enters the heart zone when a bouquet of white flowers oozes and takes the scene. I feel the lily of the valley, a recognizable but tame touch of jasmine, and little or almost imperceptible orange blossom. As I have already said, the fragrance revolves around a rosy skeleton, to which the other ingredients add one by one, but in a volatile and not permanent way. They come, kiss the roses, and they go.

When the perfume reaches its end, the other companions met at the beginning of the journey have left the scene, or have moved into the background. Instead, the clean, creamy nuances of white musk expand, making the rose petals even muskier. A modern and refined patchouli joins this wonderful essence, which gives a touch of contemporary class, anything but ancient. An earthy and mossy vibe remains on the trail a few hours later.

Vintage Rose is a surprise to smell and to wear. Under some viewpoints, it reminds me of a lighter version of "Coco Mademoiselle (Eau de Parfum) | Chanel", something for the spring and fall seasons, non-offensive for working places. This scent is everything you expect from a fragrance class. It never becomes overwhelming even if sprayed in abundance, but moderate use and possible retouching are all that you need.

I base the review on a 50ml I have owned since May 2022.

-Elysium
Elysium 2 days ago 3
So Sweet But So Excellent
TL; DR Very juicy blood orange followed by mint and lots of patchouli with a hint of vanilla. This unique scent starts with pure citrus orange but develops into something earthy, sweet, and ultimately quite addictive. The base combines a fresh mint smell with some darker notes of patchouli and cocoa again with a blood orange, a fantastic base.

I was unaware of this version and was surprised to find it today at a local store. I immediately thought it could be a flanker of "Ultraviolet Man (Eau de Toilette) | Paco Rabanne", a perfume that I have always chased but never bought, and I don’t know why. So, I tried it both on paper and my wrist and was pleasantly surprised. The fragrance belongs to the gourmand family, with dominant nuances of fruity orange, a high dose of earthy patchouli, and smooth vanilla. It’s a nice trio that works well and introduces a fresh flavour of acidity, juiciness, and powerful blood orange notes, both the peel and juice of the fruit. But not the typical juicy orange, on a par with Minute Maid or Uncle Matt’s. It is that sweet but not so sweet and not fizzy of Hesperides that I would normally attribute to a summer fragrance. I would describe the opening as sour, spicy, semi-bitter, and aromatic.

That bitter orange note strongly characterizes the opening and the rest of life. I suppose the name UltraRed comes from the sanguine colour of orange fruit. The impact is amazing, so bright, juicy, and spicy. Indeed, especially in the cloud surrounding me, the scent is further cooled by a semi-aromatic mentholated atmosphere. There is a dark bitterness in the back akin to the aroma of green cardamom seeds. At first, I even thought it was liquorice because it smelled dark and bitter like the viscous fluid of the root, the same output you get from "Au Masculin (Eau de Toilette) | Lolita Lempicka" that has this high liquorice pinch, but then it turned into something more like anise; it reminds me of aniseed sponge cake, a childhood sweet that I recently found in pastry shops. Remember that no mint, liquorice, anise, or cardamom are listed. Anyway, it’s a very pleasant impression I had for quite a few seconds, so I assume that one of them, and I swear the anise, is present in the top notes. I can also detect a slight hint of patchouli and cocoa in the background.
I love that opening. It is bright, spicy, and powerful. I immediately pick up the citrus notes. As the composition grows within a few minutes, I get majestic hints of chocolate praline, which blend with emerging sweet and toasted flavours of tonka. The praline is never cloying, but it is well-mannered and never too sweet. It’s a fresh, creamy feeling, which works very well with orange. Over time, the tonka bean and vanilla blend introduced a sweet and caramel-like note.

A mix of bright, warm, and cold notes extends into the base made of warm and rich scents of patchouli, vanilla, and tonka. Perfumers once again create a very soft chocolate accord comprising patchouli and tonka bean. The tonka and vanilla smooth some of the citrus edges towards the dry down, making the fragrance dry and sweet, while the patchouli adds depth and darkness. And vanilla is coming in more but at a slow pace.

It is an exquisite woody blend that is well seasoned with a mix of cold and hot spices and refreshed with citrus, creating the pleasant sensation of summer days with the first bright rays of the sun that tingle and warm our skin. Plus, even though it’s marketed as a summer fragrance, it’s so balanced that you could easily wear it in the spring and fall. Be careful with this perfume, as it can be offensive when you first spray it. I would recommend it for an office scent if you have some time before it settles down and settles down. But after it dries, it’s cool, and most people will enjoy it. I would wear it mainly in spring and fall. Ultrared is also fantastic for evening use but works great during the day as it is sweet, fresh, and pleasant. Sillage and longevity are moderate on my skin, and I have to reapply if I want it to feel until the evening. I see people comparing it to #Ultra Zest, which I don’t know, and therefore, I can neither confirm nor deny. However, as soon as I sprayed it onto the paper strip, my olfactory memory immediately associated it with "Zino (Eau de Toilette) | Davidoff" and then with "A*Men / Angel Men | Mugler". Maybe that’s just me, but the mix of patchouli with the other notes creates this similar chocolate and caramel vibe in all of those fragrances. Try it if you like the gourmand on par with A*Men or Angel genre. Gourmand sex in a bottle.

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since May 2022.

-Elysium
Elysium 5 days ago 2
8.5
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
8
Bottle
A Bitter Nocturnal Flower
I came across Modern Bouquet quite by accident. I had read that Stradivarius had recently launched a "Color Explosion" collection--a series of six fragrances--on the market, including one dedicated to men. As I passed the store, I remembered this fact and entered. On the shelf were exposed the testers, six very minimal bottles, some with frosted glass, soft and pastel colors, and the wooden cap in different colors. Obviously, I didn't focus only on the one intended for a male audience, and I tested all the fragrances. Well, Modern Bouquet was the one that immediately caught my attention, making me prefer it to Free Spirit for Man. I can't wait to tell you about this fragrance with a perfect name: "Nº115 Modern Bouquet | Stradivarius".

Modern Bouquet reveals itself with a fresh, dewy accord. The pear is juicy and crunchy, like a Williams or Doyenné du Comice variety. I feel the note of pear emerging quite clearly in a sweet cloudy, and not a cloying way, which I normally can never feel in other fragrances. Pushes the powdery bergamot fruit into the background while a carnal tuberose kicks between the top notes. In a few minutes, I can harvest the triad of white flowers. When I tested the cologne in the shop, I was unaware of the pyramid notes, but it was clear that the white narcotic flower was mixed in the potion. As soon as I sprayed it, I fell in love with it. There is a distinctive twist of the tuberose that makes this stand out.

As I wear it longer, I smell the bittersweet orange blossom anticipating and sharing heart with a relatively indolic sweetish jasmine. However, the duo is not enough to tame the poisoning tuberose, so bitter, seductive, and hypnotic. It is a riot of white, tart, and slightly animalistic flowers. From time to time, however, it smells like grape soda, but it's not as syrupy as it might seem. I find something about this mix of flowers and fruit intoxicating. And, perhaps contrary to popular belief, I think this is quite characteristic among modern fragrances, about how the flowery notes are reinterpreted. Tuberose is the most prominent of the three white flowers on my nose with its distinct carnal smell.

When the base notes start to take over, the scent becomes a bit earthy, smoky, amber, even deeper and denser, but with a slightly powdery accent. The patchouli gives it a deeper and more woody feel, and the base seems to contain cashmere wood, with that light and enveloping silky touch. It starts out soft and, yes, a little chewy. But the bottom is beautiful. On my skin, it dries, almost smoked. The grassiness of the vetiver in this perfume is intoxicating, with the white flowers completing it with a beautiful floral, woody, and slightly smoky scent. I get a somewhat woody undertone from this and a fresh, soapy, cleansing, and grape-flavored vibe that white flowers sometimes have.

Modern Bouquet is bright and heavy, joyful and mysterious at the same time. It is a remarkably unique smell, which stands out from the crowd. It twists and turns, sometimes it smells dry and salty like incense, and sometimes it smells like grass and a little aromatic like vetiver, with fruity hints of grapes. Don't wear it during the summer as this fragrance could be cloying in the heat. This scent is best suited for colder climates. I would wear it in spring, autumn, and winter during the day or evening. This would also be perfect for a date night! He is cute, flirtatious, and sweet. If you are looking for a morning aroma, sweet white flowers with a decent amount of freshness, this is a good choice. However, it's dark, perfect for cooler nights or days. I imagine it would work well on the chilly days of early spring or fall when you want to wear flowers but need something powerful, warm, and sweet that can cut through the cold air. The scent is quite linear, almost seamlessly passing from one phase to another. Its sillage and longevity are satisfying. I would wear this when I have an important meeting at work and want to be perceived as someone who smells good but without trying too hard. Overall, it smells clean and dark and mysterious but still fresh, mature, and playful. I feel a bit of a medicinal grape vibe mixed with a tuberose note. What can I say? I love it! In case you were wondering what it looks like, this little wonder is inspired by the most recent formulation of "L'Interdit (2018) (Eau de Parfum) | Givenchy", a perfume that I love to smell on a man.

I base the review on a 50ml bottle I have owned since May 2022.

-Elysium
Elysium 6 days ago 3
8.5
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle
The Return Of Happiness
Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, is a perfume linked to my childhood. Its candid but penetrating scent, lanceolate leaves, and bell-shaped little white flowers are my childhood memories. At that time, my family had moved to Milan, my parents were both working, and as a result, my elder sister and I spent the holidays with our grandparents during the summer months. My paternal grandmother had a passion for the vegetable garden and the grassland. Behind the house, close to a fence, there were lilies of the valley under some moist shady ground, in full bloom between late May and early June. Of course, there were many other flowers, dahlias, daisies, and gladioli, but the lilies of the valley had something that fascinated me and caught my attention. Those little white bells that dangled from the stem and hid among the greenish leaves gave off an intoxicated, fresh, powerful scent, and I always wondered how such tiny flowers might have had such an intrusive scent. And I was not aware that, although beautiful and sweet-smelling, this flower is quite toxic and deadly to domestic animals and humans when consumed. According to the language of flowers, Lily of the Valley or Muguet signifies "The return of happiness!"

Thus, the Labeau saga “continues” with "L'Eau de Muguet | Labeau". The aroma of a pronounced spring direction welcomes me with the freshness and sourness of black currant leaves. I can feel the tart motif, which blends with a somewhat shy red rose and a much safer juicy orange. There is an aquatic atmosphere in that opening, nothing salty or marine. Instead of something wet and dewy, delicate, like the first flowers of spring, like water lilies at the water's edge. The shade of juicy orange is bittersweet, not too sour, which is represented not only by the juice but also by the orange peel, and the presence of lily-of-the-valley is noticeable from the very beginning. The non-dominant rose, and the tamed jasmine refers to an elegant, volatile, and captivating sensuality.

As the sparkling chord of the opening calms down and the scent settles on my skin, the spicy scent of jasmine and lily of the valley blossoms explodes. As the fragrance is a tribute to the lily-of-the-valley, indole jasmine stands in the background, as do the choir's voices, while the spicy hints of black pepper masterfully balance the lily of the valley, otherwise too strong to induce a headache. The heart is well orchestrated, and the lily of the valley is gentle, bearable, not offensive. It is floral notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, and light rose; they are delicate watercolors, like solid colors diluted with water.

Subsequently, the fragrance dries on a predominantly earthy and musky base. The greenish opening and the central floral part flow perfectly into the clean patchouli leaves, the soapy and transparent musk, and a slightly salty but never too marine ambergris. The fragrance dissolves in the warm air, leaving a cold trail on the skin, something with soapy and dusty edges. It is as if ice cubes had touched it which, melted without a trace, at the end left only sensations. What a nice surprise this perfume is! This Spanish house, Labeau, is pleasing me more and more.

What else to say? Labeau L'eau de Muguet is a fresh and casual fragrance because there is nothing more refreshing than spring supported by the freshness of the lily of the valley. Still, it is, at the same time, delicate with a feminine cut like the first flowers that come and bold with a masculine cut like the ultimate earthiness that goes. It has an average projection and longevity, and after a few hours, the subtly wavering fragrance transforms into the lightest cloud of musky patchouli. The aroma does not completely disappear; it remains on the skin and clothes, and freshness and fruity acidity are probably for the best. I have no doubts about wearing it on warm spring days, in my free time, going to work, or spending some time at home relaxing on a lazy weekend. I can't help but check out and review "L'Eau de Thé Vert | Labeau", which isn't just another brick in the wall of regular green tea scents. Stay tuned.

I base the review on a 60ml bottle I have owned since May 2022.

-Elysium
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