ElysiumElysium's Perfume Reviews

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Elysium 15 hours ago 2

The Pearl of the Euphrates
The legend of the black rose, the pearl of the Euphrates, follows the descendants of an African princess stolen from her homeland. It is the story of a forbidden love divided by age. An accident will tear a family apart, but it will bring together age-old lovers in the most unusual way—a great love story of ancestral beings expelled from their homeland and condemned to wander like restless spirits. Follow ancestral spirits, lost and marginalized by time as they determine their place and identity. As you read, ask yourself, who is the Black Rose? Are you curious to know more about this hidden gem? Let’s begin.

In my fantasy, Black Rose is a perfume that sees two protagonists, which we will soon reveal. On me, it opens with a cold, metallic and dry rose, ignoring for a moment the other flowers that make up the top notes. Damask rose is the main protagonist, with a sort of creaminess from hedione, a molecule similar to the smell of jasmine and magnolia. White flowers sit in the second row and slowly exude right after the queen rose. There is also another protagonist hidden among the olfactory pyramid. It is not the green geranium, which I don't get at all. Instead, it is the aroma of freshly brewed coffee that takes your breath away. The cologne combines the flowering of the coffee bean with a fresh and vegetal rose, achieving a dry and refreshing head tone.

The more the fragrance heats up, the creamier it becomes. In the intermediate stage, I get something like a cappuccino, milky and with a lot of roasted coffee. It is genuinely edible, gourmand as if a soft layer of coffee chocolate covered the rose petals. It seems to smell the bowl with the roasted coffee beans that every good perfumery should have and is used to clean the nose when it becomes saturated with essences. The intense floral notes that immediately emerge from the opening continue in the blaze of rose that follows for about half an hour. A rose with a deep sweetness, with some spicy and honeyed accents, such as the quality of the damask. This rosy and toasty accord will last for a long time.

The fragrance dries with warm and sweet black amber, with an intensely evocative scent, a magical spell inspired by the suggestions of forbidden power. A very soft tail, with a discreet white musk soft on the skin, but above all, a lot of creamy vanilla combined with a dark woody, slightly balsamic scent, but I can’t identify which wood was used. I assume it is Brazilian black rosewood, very dark chocolate tending wood that has a distinct rose scent when worked. Finally, I would not exclude a hint of oud, dark, medicinal, not at all intrusive or overwhelming.

My final judgment is that this fragrance brings together a selection of noble floral notes with a rose in the head, precious dark amber and gourmand notes. This perfume is a beautiful dance of simple pleasures and the attraction of opposites. It is a velvety full red rose on a wooden table in a lovely smoky cafe on an autumn evening. It is the aroma of a soul mate. I smell the scent for many hours, with a straightforward but never noisy projection. It is a fragrance where roses and coffee are spread over an amber, vanilla, and white musk bed. The bottle is also beautiful, which I believe exists only in the 50ml format, in the shape of a crescent, with a heavy golden metal cap covered with white leather squares; the upper one has the brand logo imprinted. I find it an autumn fragrance for the humid and cold months of mid-season for my tastes, more suitable for social evenings. Even if I catch the secret note of coffee, this perfume will delight those who love the enveloping oriental sweetness of vanilla and the floral seduction of damask rose. It is a pity that the whole Alma collection is little known because here, we are faced with niche essences, never bland or made to please everyone.
And you, did you already know this fragrance? What do you think?

I base the review on a 50ml bottle I have owned since October 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 3 days ago 1
9
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

Morning Fog And Rain Smell
I can associate this perfume with a manticore, a legendary monster with a man's head, horns, a lion's body, a dragon's tail, or sometimes, a scorpion. Imagine you are in a tavern in Esfahan, where a hunter yells at the crowd, showing a big scar that cuts his chest from side to side. You approach to listen better and notice the hunter's look of hatred and terror when he utters a word: Martyaxwar. This is the story of the manticore. According to the first writings, it is a creature having its origins in the legend of the ancient Persian cities. It is said to have a large and powerful body, like a lion, with a fiery red mane, like the flames of hell, and a redskin color similar to that of cinnabar. Its tail resembles that of a land scorpion and is equipped with a sting. What arouses the most fear is the grotesque head of the animal similar to a human face, its ears and glaucous eyes identical to those of a man. The monster's huge, wide-open mouth reveals three rows of hundreds of sharp teeth that pounce on the victim like a lethal trap, severing his head at the height of the neck still throbbing with life. It can also inflict severe wounds with its claws. The term "martichoras" means "anthropophagous" in Greek, precisely because this beast feeds primarily on men, as well as other animals.
The association derives not so much from being anthropophagous but from the multifaceted character of the body. And this perfume has so many facets that it looks like a manticore. It is the second fragrance from the Jo Malone Rain Collection that I review. This perfume is a masterpiece! It will probably be snubbed because you can find it in a Zara store, not in niche perfumery. Instead, I can tell you, try it while you are on time. It drove me crazy, and its notes blend with my skin. Are you ready to learn more about this legendary monster? Let's dive in.

Amber & Fig Cashmere is a green, aromatic, and woody scent, fig-centered, not as simple as it first appears. It opens with a burst of spicy and heady pink pepper, infused with hints of orange peel. It may be watery on the untrained nose, a wet freshness typical of violet, but this is not another aquatic fragrance. It has the odor to the morning fog and rain. I love pink pepper, which is not a natural pepper, but a kind of berry with facets of aromatic seasoning, even if not too spicy like black or white peppercorns.

Continue sexy, stimulating, and fully accessible. Fig and white woods are fabulous at heart, and that concoction handles the initial dry chord. The core here is a blend of fig ingredients to give an accord between the green leaves and the creaminess of the fruit. It also has white woods, which provide some weight to the more relaxed top note of the orange. The fig note is slightly sweet and has a natural smell, like the pulp of ripe fruit. I catch a nuance of dusty, humid, as if the violet leaf were present but not mentioned, the same one that I can smell at the opening. The intermediate phase exudes creaminess and dustiness, a kind of double cream, a panna cotta dessert, something milky and greenish at the same time. Their thick, lush leaves and fig notes create incredibly green and herbaceous scents, but this one has a proper cashmeran creaminess that provides a cozy and comforting feel.

Salty ambergris, lively patchouli, and a generous ambroxan offer an almost sweet and slightly earthy aroma in the last phase. The Ambroxan provides a dry counterpoint, and the best part is that it never gets the better of the whole thing. The fig pushes back from start to finish, and it's just an idea in this final stage. If you know the ZARA fragrances and the Jo Malone collection, you can see that what survives on the skin is reminiscent of "Zara Emotions N°02 - Waterlily Tea Dress | Zara". Attention, I am not comparing the two; I am not saying that they are similar. Instead, I want to emphasize the similarity in the trace left behind.

The monstrous creature has excellent longevity, almost a full day on me, with moderate projection and sillage, never intrusive. The overall scent makes me reach it during the warm seasons. Late spring and midsummer days are ideal, though the warm woody cashmere makes it a beautiful autumn garment. A very summery scent, the citrus notes made sparkling by the pepper, arrive immediately but disappear soon to make way for fig milk. This milky odor, vaguely sweet but not cloying, remains throughout the day together with a scent reminiscent of a bouquet of white aquatic flowers. The name is fitting, reflecting both the dominant notes and the warmth of this perfume.

And you, did you already know this fragrance? What do you think?

I base the review on a 90ml bottle I have owned since August 2021.

-Elysium

P.S. Today I could test "Eau des Merveilles | Hermès" and I must admit that even if the opening takes two different paths, from the heart onwards it looks a lot like "Zara Rain N°04 - Amber & Fig Cashmere | Zara", and in the finale, they are practically indistinguishable.

Elysium 4 days ago 5
9.5
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

A Prodigious Medicinal Ointment
There are plenty of leather nuances in the perfumery world, ranging from the smooth suede glows to the rugged leather boots. These notes can take on different facets: smoky, tarry, burnt, or even shades of licorice. More Masculine rather than feminine, wild or refined, powerful but also delicate. Yet leather has linked its animal smell for centuries to the history of perfumery. Suppose the city of Grasse in France, famous for its tanners, soothes the invasive and nauseating scents of leathers with floral essences. In that case, it is in Russia that the history of leather and perfumery takes us. Russian cavalry and dancers will inspire many noses with the smell of their waxed boots. Russian soldiers and dancers of the time made their precious shoeshine and waterproof thanks to various essences. Birch and styrax, with hints of smoke, tar, and notes of tobacco and licorice, perfumed the boots of these gentlemen. However, the intense and relentless smokiness of birch is the vital ingredient, the odour that gives the Russian skin its characteristic smell.

Returning to the topic of Bergamot & Leather Spritz, the first time I smelled this perfume, I was thrilled. Without a doubt, if they did not print the ZARA brand on it, it could very well be mistaken for a niche perfume. It is dark, hypnotic, smoky, and animalistic leather. The kind you only encounter in cult masterpieces such as "Ombré Leather (2018) (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford", "Guilty Absolute pour Homme | Gucci", or "Hypnotic Leather / Strange Black Oud | Jousset Parfums". If the leather family has ended up disappearing, and in these days and has instead become only an olfactory facet, here we have an agreement and a core of dominance of raw leather, that of saddles for riding. And Jo Loves, aka Jo Malone, has done a fantastic job here. I strongly advise you to check it on your skin because the strip of paper releases only the tip of the iceberg; the essence releases many shades warming up with the skin, which are not perceived by the cold blotter.

First things first, I get licorice, birch tar, kind of musty, woody vibe, a bit of a fumy to it. The lavender, dark and wild, hay-like, I would say, blends with bergamot and smoky birch, resulting in a soothing and medicinal aroma—a prodigious medicinal ointment redolence. For an instant, I smell the oud from the base notes, slightly therapeutic with iodine and peaty aspects.

This fragrance pursues dry and warm, and when the heart approaches, the leather is the primary star. A powdery orris oozes and goes side by side with the leather, not a lipstick kind, but something with smoldering edges. Dusty and smoky whiff of iris infuses leather, like charcoal crumbs aroma.

When the essence chills out, the initial punch of medicinal leather softens, moves in the back, but does not disappear. The oud enters the game playing with the amber. I do not get a nasty oud, nor a too sweet or salty amber. They tune the former ideally not to overwhelm but to add subtle texture to everything. The overall redolence remains warm, cosy, sexy.

That’s my journey with Bergamot & Leather Spritz. The performances are superb, with several hours of amusement on my skin and clothes. The essence goes well with fall months, or better, it is a fall in a bottle. Day or night does not matter, inoffensive at work but captivating at night out. I want my jacket to smell like that. Pity Lagavulin Scotch whiskey, a burnt rawhide, drenched in smoke and alcohol. I want more of this. This is a ZARA rare gem, which is part of the Rain collection, n°2. It is a limited edition, and I doubt you will find it around.

And you, did you already know this fragrance? What do you think?

I base the review on a 90ml bottle I have owned since August 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 5 days ago 4
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle

Big City Streets Smell On A Gloomy Day
The way the master perfumer treated musk here undeniably brings your mind to a moist, clean and soggy accord. I do not base the damp asphalt accord that everyone describes on the smell of the individual notes, but strictly on how Narciso Rodriguez for Him, in its entirety, creates and revives it as a unique scented experience, genuinely like no other. I have never found another colony comparable to this one. The fragrance is reminiscent of new grass, damp moss, and wet bark, but it is so much more! Imagine walking along the sidewalk of a big city shortly after a short but intense spring or autumn downpour. Smell the wet concrete sidewalks, cobbled streets, ancient buildings, and structures around you that converge with clean sweetness and natural, clear, rain-soaked air. This scent stimulates introspection, like walking down that same busy street, alone with yourself. The composition also evokes the structure reserved for truly successful creations, certainly niche quality and character.

The fragrance is, in fact, as many say, a masterpiece. And so do I. It is a musky and earthy floral scent. I can make out a powerful punch of violet, then the musk, and finally the patchouli in it. Without compromise, it is a sweet, clean, and almost green opening with some floral shadows underneath. This accord makes a good impression from the start, at least to me: the violet leaf is refreshing and smells like young grass. The ozone opening is almost unparalleled. Not the kind of ozone smell you get when the first raindrops touch the burning summer asphalt, rather like the air you breathe when the silver raindrops start watering a wooded area, the undergrowth. Imagine that the rain has just stopped and the sky is still dark; there is a field of violets peeking out from a carpet of moss with raindrops sprinkled on them. The perfume for me is as if I had taken a violet leaf and crushed it between my fingers, bringing out a bittersweet aroma. The violet leaf isn't breaking out here, but the way they mixed it is. If that note releases an oil-like chord when mixed with leather, as in "Fahrenheit (Eau de Toilette) | Dior", it reproduces the damp concrete-like chord when combined with musk.

The scent is relatively linear and moves quickly from this outrageous, almost dramatic act of opening to something infinitely more wearable and understated. The combination of musk, amber, and patchouli takes center stage, never really removing the violet leaf from the background. If the powdery and moist note hits immediately, the base comes with more manly notes of musk and patchouli. Thick amber, but not sweet or cloying, and super masculine musk give a soft, soapy accord. Very classic, but there is something extravagant hidden between the lines. As already mentioned for the opening notes, amber, musk, and patchouli are well blended, clear, and soft on the finish. The first two create some buttery heat in this one, making sure it doesn't get so bland that it feels more like a smelly chemical. At this point, the ideal mix of white musk, which smells of clean, and dirty patchouli, which smells of earth, gives the best of itself to this fragrance—the right balance between clean and unclean, savory not too animalistic.

There are few examples left in circulation as they have been discontinued for some time, and it is a real shame. The most recent "For Him Bleu Noir (Eau de Toilette) | Narciso Rodriguez" has nothing to do with it. Kurkdjian has created a unique and challenging to interpret fragrance with only a few ingredients that leave a strange moist, earthy, mineral, ozone, and slightly sweet feeling. More suitable for the cooler months, day and night fit great, although it shines best during rainy days, such as gloomy spring and autumn days. Performance is outstanding, sillage is decent, and longevity is substantial. Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to call it an evocative masterpiece. It is simply absurdly sophisticated and unique.

I base the review on a decant I have owned since February 2021.

-Elysium
1 Reply

Elysium 8 days ago 6
8
Scent
4
Longevity
4
Sillage
8
Bottle

Luxurious in a British Style
There are parks near where I live. Every now and then I go there for running or jogging. If it has rained recently, the smells of drizzle, grass, wet earth, leaves, resin, wood and pine needles mix in my nostrils, and what comes out is like this scent. It tastes like wet woods and spices. Well, I don't find it particularly spicy, not like an Indian dish; it focuses on moderately sweet but not cloying raw tobacco. The mimosa note feels good and looks great, especially in the opening, and is entirely faithful, as it is synthetic. Mimosa is one of those hints that are difficult to recognize for those who have never heard it just picked or in the next two hours. I love mimosa, and I like to put my nose in a fresh and fragrant bouquet.

Almost immediately after application, the misty mimosa rises above me. It is the first note to break through and leaves an aggressive impression. There's a hint of subdued lavender and bergamot, quickly set aside by hot cinnamon, hot pepper, and sweet orange. London knows how to add spice to woody and floral scents to help create a different take on the spices. The initial blend, on my nose, blends perfectly and soon turns into something that reveals evergreens and leather. I must say that this unknown perfume took me entirely by surprise. It reminds me of the smell of some studies full of books, the scent in the waiting room when I went to the family doctor as a child, and we had to wait our turn.

Then comes the leather, a tarred birch, I guess, along with the fortified wine. The roaster claims to be port wine, an aromatic liqueur from Portugal, which shares some similarities with Italian Marsala. They are both red wines infused with aromatic herbs. I don't find it dark but pungent. Tobacco, mixed with cinnamon leaves, also reveals its more acrid and less woody nature. The Burberry London aroma improves over time, and this is where it shines. Tobacco is a major player here. It's a pretty sweet tobacco note, an excellent match of leather and cinnamon to give it something unique. Something a little smoky and aged just right, like a whiskey barrel, with port instead of whiskey. As the middle notes develop, the leather continues to hold its own, and a sweet and ever so soft aroma takes over. That beautiful leather accord marks the beginning of the transition to the dry down.

The port-wine present in the heart has almost disappeared, and woody notes emerge from the base. The last phase includes opoponax and honey-like tobacco. This aroma is sweet and narcotic, a cherry and vanilla pipe tobacco. I don't know why the Burberry colony takes this route on me, but it is undoubtedly a pleasant journey into foggy, humid and decadent London. The dark notes, composed of smoked guaiac wood and oak bark, show a dominant presence throughout the fragrance's life and give it a dark, sweet and vigorous depth. The dry, woody and amber accord with a bit of bitterness remains exquisitely on the skin.

A few hours after spraying it, there is only a very close smell to the skin, which no one feels. I hope it marries your skin better because it's worth it. Like other Burberry perfumes, this one is moderate in the way it projects and moderates its longevity. I love it when the masculine fragrance successfully balances warmth, masculinity and sweetness, and Burberry London does. It is one of my favourite scents on the scarf and sweaters, as it seems to bloom under the wool lining as my body heat amplifies it. If you are looking for a great perfume that ripens in the crisp autumn air, Burberry London should be on your list. I've always liked wearing it in the evening, but it's also good during the day. It is an opulent and magnetic perfume that evokes autumn in all its splendour. Just wait for the temperature to drop enough to call for a thick jacket or sweater. I would recommend this product to anyone who loves the outdoors or loves to smell like the outdoors. Ultimately, in the same baseball field as Bogart, but not quite similar apart from the opening. Bogart becomes powdery vanilla, where London remains piney resinous.

And you, did you already know this fragrance? What do you think?

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since February 2016.

-Elysium
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