ElysiumElysium's Perfume Reviews

6 - 10 of 506
Elysium 11 days ago 2
9
Scent
6
Longevity
5
Sillage
10
Bottle

Hidden Gem Nobody Talks About
I've always had a soft spot for skyscrapers, but I had never seen a real one until 2003, October to be precise. The start of a new global business project had required my presence in Princeton, New Jersey. Hence, I had travelled over the weekend to visit Manhattan before leaving for work on Monday morning. I remember staying in a shabby hotel to save the company money, with a tiny room where the King Size bed filled it three-quarters full. The window overlooked a blind cavity. A shock, but I didn't care. I was in Central Park. I was in New York. I remember spending the weekend wandering up and down the avenues, from uptown to downtown, moving from one neighbourhood to another without stopping, taking a myriad of photos looking at the sky, visiting the Empire State Building with a breathtaking view across the state of New York and beyond. The last time I was a couple of years ago, this time on vacation, the summer before the pandemic broke out, and the effect was always fascinating, impressive, astounding. And maybe it's just my passion for skyscrapers that led me to collect Elizabeth Arden's 5th Avenue series. I started with the classic and then bought all the flankers, one after the other, up to this last jewel that nobody talks about. Yes, because the bottle looks like a skyscraper, and the glass is as dark as night for the Royale flanker. It captures the mystery of Manhattan at nightfall.

Unrestrained and gloomy. The oud immediately makes its presence felt. The scent begins with a burst of lightly burnt raspberry liqueur on the face. It is an alcoholic, chocolaty, and medicinal accord, reminiscent of raspberry cough syrups, the fruity ones, the good ones. The pyramid note does not mention cocoa or chocolate, so this probably comes from patchouli, which often takes on a chocolate tinge. I can't tell if there is any bergamot in there because of the syrupy accord and a touch of sweet orange blossom shyly oozing. The abundant, thick, and greasy scent makes me doubt whether to wear it during the day or for the office - it could overwhelm my co-workers.

After a few minutes, it turns into a glorious smell. The leathery fragrance comes with a touch of incense. The accord of incense and patchouli exudes exotic craftsmanship and sensuality. The notes come in slowly, almost on tiptoe. On my skin, the heart remains balsamic, and the dryness of cedarwood and cypriol does not turn out as expected. Maybe it needs more time and more wear. The first impression never captures all the details. Afterwards, it doesn't change much as it dries. I observe that the patchouli warms it up a bit.

After about an hour, the fragrance fades, and the previous notes merge into the hypnotic accord of amber oud, synthetic but strangely good, slightly healing as mentioned above. Oud resin isn't alone but features smooth suede cuffs and clean mosses. Suede, yes, but not very leathery or animal for my nose and a soft flower that I still can't place, perhaps the opening orange blossom. The smell of delicate skin comes from the labdanum, the cistus or rock rose. I'm pretty sure I've smelled something similar before, in my collection or a shop. However, the oud here is used in a gourmand way, not mixed with spiced saffron or floral rose. To me, it smells like a leather jacket the morning after being worn on a romantic evening. The whole composition is gentle, with a musky undertone. It's that wonderfully quirky, almost salty variant of moss that I'm in love with.

Ambiguous. Brilliant. Mesmeric. Perfume is all those adjectives and more. Suede, chocolatey patchouli and liqueur with the addition of caramelized ripe raspberries are a pretty accurate description of what this fragrance is for me. Yes, the top notes are a little shrill, but wow, once it dries a little, it's so good. The cool evenings and nights of October, and generally autumn, are the perfect time to wear it. Dare with it to go to a party, out in the open, to dinner, to the theatre, or the cinema. I'm not sure about the performance yet; maybe wearing it a few times will give me a better idea. Sure, there is leather, incense and spices, but the overall result is not a manly fragrance, even if nothing is missing to be worn by a man, without hesitation or resentment. This perfume is ideal if you are looking for a light oriental, not extremely powerful, not so sweet and without the typical oriental damask rose. Its price is low, ridiculous, but it smells expensive, like a priceless Tom Ford perfume. My nose smells pretty niche, and I would never say it's Elizabeth Arden! And I'm surprised nobody talks about it.

I base the review on a 75ml bottle I have owned since June 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 12 days ago 4
9
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

Brazilian Grilled Pineapple
I often observe that men's clothing stores offer one or more fragrances with their brand. See, for example Gutteridge, Dan John, and Doppelgänger. And it is right in front of Luigi Fusaro's windows in Corso Buenos Aires in Milan that I stopped, attracted by a couple of perfumes with an exquisite matte black bottle. Intrigued, I entered the shop and asked if I could try them. I liked them immediately, both of them. "Accarézzame | Luigi Fusaro" is instantly more citrusy, while this is fruity, sweet, inviting. I opted to buy this one and promised myself that I would get the other one as well. If there's one word to describe this scent, it's magnificent. It is that nice.

Luigi Fusaro includes fruity and smoky accords. A fruit cocktail is an aroma that greets me as soon as the scent meets my skin. It is a sweet, warm mix of freshly cut apples covered with a noticeably fresh ripe, very ripe pineapple juice. Luckily, a more tart aroma from some bergamot and a little bit from black currant balances the sweetness. It is a very fresh opening that oozes maleness, something you'd like to smell on a male. The fragrance has a very smooth and creamy sweetness balanced by the tartness from the citrus notes, with pineapple, which is felt predominantly.

In the heart of this cologne, it follows the smoky and woody birch note. I detect a thick note creeping in. The combination of fresh, top notes with woody heart notes is excellent and gives it the smell that makes everyone go wild, at least me. The leathery and sharp birch combo, dirty patchouli, and aromatic juniper produce an alluring scent, fumy and well-rounded. Birch is more smoky than leathery, and I would say, a kind of velvety suede. While exotic pineapple tones down a bit, though it is still perceivable in the background. The birch tar smoothly caresses the initial fruity blast. I particularly like this smoky note for its unusual character in modern compositions, especially when transposed to the background of pineapple. I experienced an aroma close to the Brazilian grilled pineapple without the spicy cinnamon.

The more the fragrance stays on you, the more it gets musky and slightly gourmand. Luigi Fusaro ends with a pleasant vanilla note that perfectly polishes the scent. I notably like the vanilla accord that emerges towards the bottom. The creamy sweetness of vanilla gives an excellent balance to mossy and smoky facets. The burned notes persist all the way and are flanked on stage by an oakmoss accord that gives more earthiness to the composition.

Right off the bat, I did not peer Luigi Fusaro with "Aventus (Eau de Parfum) | Creed" initially. However, the more it progresses toward the final stage, the more it shares similar vibes. Yet, to me, Luigi Fusaro is a lot more fruity and more suited to fall days. It stays with me for a long time. Several hours, a few sprays are all I will need. It is because it's an EDP, so less is more. The fruity notes are delicious, and I love a solid musk base, so I like this scent, and I can argue that it veers a lot in the universe of masculine accords. Even if the superfine noses will find the synthetic fragrance, it is a significant result, especially for the price that is around €20.

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since October 2021.

-Elysium
2 Replies

Elysium 14 days ago 5
10
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

An '80s Powerhouse of Booze
I have owned this perfume for almost six years, yet I have never found the mood to describe it. I put it in my fall rotation, and on this misty Sunday morning in October, I think the time has come to give it the glory it deserves. First, Bentley for Men is uncompromising in its onslaught. It sits close enough in the olfactory profile to the much-discussed "Bentley for Men Intense | Bentley" flanker. While it’s easy to see why it was overshadowed by its more bombastic big brother, there are still important differences between them. Seldom there is such a great scent hype as that for Bentley for Men Intense. However, Bentley For Men is no exception.
The cologne has oriental and spicy aspects. It was released in 2013 and developed by Nathalie Lorson. Those who follow me should know that she is on the podium of my favourite perfumers. It’s almost a niche fragrance, which means it’s not available in so many retailers. All the Bentley perfumes I own I have bought blindly online. The perfume combination here isn’t the most unique, but it still sets Bentley apart from the average male cologne. Like an intense liqueur rich in very hot spices, the cologne combines wood with the sweet scents of Bourbon rum. And the note of refined leather warms you with the spices. Let’s get started.

For me, the bay leaf dominates in the opening, and it is the first thing I perceive. But the bergamot and pepper are immediately behind, with an incensed and smoky note in the background that emerges already a few minutes after spraying and is present almost to the end. Oddly enough, it does not mention the note of frankincense or olibanum, even though my nose smells it. The same goes for spiced bergamot, which lasts a lifetime. It’s almost spicy, and the peppercorn, oddly enough, can make you sneeze if you tend to smell the sprayed spot immediately. Then, the sugary alcohol calms down, and the woodiness takes over.

It takes almost a quarter of an hour to dampen the citrus and aromatic tones, after which the rum also begins to surface along with the woody accord. Thankfully, not everything is dark as the opening doesn’t last forever and begins to take its recognizable oriental shape, and the rounded edges smooth out. As soon as the tricky opening fades, leather and cinnamon join the game. While there are still plenty of avenues for the fantastic finish, the fragrance’s bold niche side appears. There are aromatic and green facets due to the sage, here it is so true with its fragrant and velvety leaves. The spicy, woody, alcoholic flavour begins to rise from your skin, and the brownish skin of birch and labdanum prevents it from getting too sweet. And the smoke is still present in the background.

All of that remains in the concoction after the base notes begin to emerge, except for the bergamot which dissolves completely in a couple of hours, a nice span for a citrus top note. When the protagonists, such as rum, leather and cinnamon, take a back seat, the glorious vanilla benzoin blends with the dark patchouli and makes the base delicious. Yes, the feel of cedarwood pencil shavings is present, although the amber and balsamic facets of the resins stand out more. And despite the patchouli plays a wiry role here, the notes of leather and cedar are still obtained.

Ultimately, the scent changes slightly during the first few hours, but at the same time, its core remains constant and very pleasant all the time. After about half a day, it is a little less spicy but still aromatic, sweeter, more sparkling and more leathery. It starts more as a daytime scent for the colder days of autumn and ends as a warm nighttime scent. It’s great considering it lasts and projects well for several hours and then continues as a skin scent.
Spicy yet light and woody but delicate at the same time, this fragrance easily got my approval. A more versatile and less self-centred version, I say self-centred as a compliment, of Intense. the rum component in both can make one look like a clone of the other but in my opinion, it is not. I think Bentley for Men is more to be worn for autumn, in winter there is more incensed and enveloping Intense that awaits. I got compliments from the guys ... “You smell so good, unobtrusive, just plain good!”

And you, do you like boozy perfumes? What do you think?

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since January 2016.

-Elysium

Elysium 18 days ago 3
9
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
10
Bottle

Almodóvar Artist’s Secret Splinter
For an unknown reason, my mind associates this scent to the figure of the Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar, his films, his characters, to his women. It is probably only the nationality that unites the designer and the director, both of Spanish origin. Or perhaps the Spanish name of the cologne, Ambar. Fact is, I imagine Almodóvar’s muse Marisa Paredes wearing this hidden gem. The natural amber fossil uncannily inspired Ambar. Vegetable amber is the fossil sap of prehistoric trees, stone-like nuggets of a honey-coloured hue admired for their ancient beauty. Jesús del Pozo presented this perfume in a beautiful bottle that gives the impression of a fallen piece of this semiprecious gem.

Ambar is not a traditional amber perfume, which is often thick, boozy, honey-like and sweet; instead, it is an upbeat and modern take on the amber theme, perfect for warmer weather. Jesús del Pozo worked with Marie Salamagne to develop the sophisticated perfume. The curved bottle enhances the sensuality of the fragrance, created by art director Juan Gatti. When I smell the bottle, I can really smell the citrus notes, but once sprinkled on me, the cardamom tames the opening citrus notes and takes on a very spicy, exotic sweetness, evoking the free and natural seduction of newly washed naked skin.

To begin with, Ambar is not a fragrance for everyone. On my skin, it’s fairly masculine, which I enjoy. The scent itself is a wonderfully diaphanous blend of crunchy tangerine and bergamot. It opens sourly, and the bergamot and mandarin fruits are fresh but not synthetic citrus. On me, citrus is in the foreground without being over the top. While it is not artificial, they have a slightly soapy and sharp smell. Right now, I adore the scent because it is fresh but amber and soothing—very well blended, balanced. Cardamom is present and in the foreground, but once again, it doesn’t take over the whole fragrance. After a few minutes, the exotic suggestion of cedar shavings and tea leaves shows up.

Later, it slowly calms down and settles on a flowery bouquet of peonies with an amber feel but still has that citrus note that doesn’t fade entirely and stays on for a long time. The scent is now dancing on a red floral heart of feeble rosy peony and powdery iris. I wouldn’t mind if the peony and iris were more prominent. As the fragrance dries, the floral notes grow, giving it an extra layer and making it even more beautiful. The peony sticks its head in there, but it’s minimal. It adds a little sweetness to the elixir without entering the vast white floral territory. This fragrance is multifaceted, truly unique, like an exotic dessert. It is astounding. A whiff of tea gives the scent a slight spice, spreading over a light cedar.

Then, in the base, I can still feel that amber sensation. The citrus fruits vanished, and I am left with a mixture of iris and woods. The dry shade of cedar is perceivable, very dominant in comparison with amber. I feel the faint scent of vanilla that seems to pull and blend the distinct notes into a creamy and tasty concoction. Last, but not least, there is a deep sage. I’m fond of the ultimate effect, a soft, warm, soapy, slightly sweet scent.

The loudest notes I smell are cardamon, cedar, amber and tea. It is modern, uplifting, with character, has an amber look, although not as much as some might expect because of its name. It is exotic, slightly woody and resinous, non-vanilla. As all Jesús del Pozo fragrances, Ambar is very affordable. The sillage is decent. It’s not everywhere, but I still smell it here and there after hours without having to reapply. Plus, it hangs around for quite a while, which for an EDT is a surprise. I see a man wearing it with no problem. Ambar is much more unisex than feminine. If you know "Lalique Le Parfum (Eau de Parfum) | Lalique", then Ambar and Le Parfum are cut from the same cloth, they share the same vibe. It is not a secret that men appreciate and wear Le Parfum, either. A daytime, inoffensive fragrance with great longevity. The sillage is not as intensive as I hoped, but it’s fine. I think wearing this in spring would be a pleasurable experience, either. However, it’s a good intensity for the office and just all too masculine for me, which is a plus.

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since November 2020.

-Elysium
1 Reply

Elysium 19 days ago 3
8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

A Rolls-Royce Full-size Luxury Car
The Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow is a full-size luxury car produced by British automaker Rolls-Royce in various forms from 1965 to 1980. It was the first of the marque to use unitary body and chassis construction. Was Francis Kurkdjian taking inspiration from that car when creating the cologne? Who knows, but I enjoy thinking he did.

Silver Shadow is part of the oriental wood composition and bases on three key elements: bitter orange, saffron, and amber. It is not innovative or disruptive, though the result is very pleasing. Perfumes are like paintings. All artists have the same colors available; it’s how they use them that makes the difference. Let’s now talk about the scent. It was first worn today after an inexpensive blind purchase long ago, and it is a very smooth, elegant, mild fragrance. I didn’t get a molecular blast or very sour citrus, just a good balance of resins, spices, and amber. I catch a fig-like redolence from the sprayer, dry, milky, yet the juice is pretty different when it melts on the skin.

A balsamic and resinous cloud opens the dance. Cedar leaf oil has a fresh, coniferous, camphorated, slightly sweet smell, far from the dry pencil shavings odor, and comes to the fore while it pushes behind the spicy, sweet orange. It is precisely the smell my mind associates with autumn and the misty air one feels walking in a coniferous forest. The opening combines a balsamic accord with a slightly herbaceous background. Initially, the resin is relatively nonspecific, but it solidifies into a cedar feel over time, which is quite good.

The more it warms, the more camphoraceous it becomes, with balsamic and mentholated facets. I’ve had it on my skin for ten minutes already, and that cloud shows no sign of calming down. It doesn’t bother me, but I’m excited to hear the heart notes. For many, Silver Shadow could be too light or uninteresting because it requires an effort to show and let appreciate the heart notes. The saffron comes sweet, and that disappointed me. I was expecting something leathery, but no, not in this cologne. The heart oozes a touch of sweetness but is not too strong or cloying at all.

A certain earthiness looms at the bottom, mainly moderately crunchy patchouli. Together with the woody note, this mix becomes more rounded, soft, and creamy, with an amber undertone towards the end. There is a faint woody note of cedar and then a clean-smelling vanilla amber scent that is unique, sweet yet not a gourmand. The smell is almost addictive. It is a well-kept secret.

I get moderate sillage, outstanding projection, and several hours of longevity on my skin. Those who passed by also liked the scent. I receive compliments about the beauty of this fragrance. Given the resinous, woody, and amber notes, I would suggest that the best time of year to wear would be autumn, ideal for the day and work, and warm evening too, as it displays a pleasant softness. It is intended for an adult audience, for men having some grey hair that shines, and therefore the volume of the sillage has been lowered, but that of sophistication has been amplified a lot.

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since April 2018.
-Elysium

6 - 10 of 506