ElysiumElysium's Perfume Reviews

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Elysium 21 days ago 3
8
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
8
Bottle

Best Bang for Your Buck
A Creamsicle is a parfait with a vanilla ice cream heart and a fruit sorbet coating. The classic combination of flavours is orange and vanilla, although we can find many variations on this premise in stores. Frozen fruit juice bars have historically been popular in many cultures, combining frozen sweet juice with creamy vanilla ice cream long before the Creamsicle hit stores. The dessert tastes very creamy with a hint of crunch from the frozen juice coating.

Well, do you believe in coincidences? I finished reading a Mandarina Duck Black review the other day, which was very interesting and inviting. To be tested, I said to myself. So, in the late afternoon, I decided to take a tour of the DM store, known in Germany and now very popular also in Italy. I immediately headed to the perfume department, and it displayed Black to my great surprise, on the shelf of the offers of the month, a super discounted price, the 100ml cost only €19. I sprayed the fragrance on the blotter, and immediately a creamy, spicy, powdery cloud spread in the air; it's much better on the skin. The aroma looks like another perfume I've used in the past without being a copy. It sits in the same ballpark as "Le Mâle (Eau de Toilette) | Jean Paul Gaultier" and "Gentlemen Only Absolute | Givenchy", to give you an idea, yet not too strong on lavender and orange blossom. It smells more expensive than it costs, and that is amazing.

For me, Black belongs to the oriental-gourmand family and turns out to be sweet, citrusy, powdery and spicy, with the sweetness of coumarin, the powdery tonka and the spiciness of citrus, just a touch. In the background, I receive a chewy, almost burnt note, perhaps from the roasted tonka beans. The black pepper I take is not too strong and balances the Hesperides cocktail well, a mix of sweet mandarin and bright bergamot. Not so sweet, not so floral, not so citrusy, not very vanilla. Each note performs a small role in this story. And the result is simply incredible.

I catch an excellent citrus opening that evolves into a very creamy tonka-vanilla combo, fragmented by zesty flashbacks. After about ten minutes, a creamy sweetness oozes from the heart, something akin to orange Creamsicle or rather butterscotch ice cream. Now the aroma is almost entirely gourmand, with a warm floral touch of tiarè and orange blossom. Tonka is the dominant note, the main protagonist, and here she plays a central role, leaving a space in the vanilla base.

Since the fragrance dries, the bergamot loses part of its initial strength, leaving the tangerine to guide the aroma, and this is the most apparent change from the opening to the dry down. I then double-checked after a few hours. The scent is very close to the skin and radiates a velvety face powder, rich in spiced vanilla, and it's not cloying like the one in cupcakes. It is no longer sweet or gourmand, somewhat powdery like a baby powder. The presence of two kinds of wood is justified as a support, although the base is neither too woody nor too dry. Sandalwood adds more creaminess to the already creamy blend, and cedar sets the scent on the skin. I don't smell the typical smell of wood shavings here.

Ultimately, Black is a cologne that everyone should check out at least once and have in the closet if they like the sweet gourmand genre. A powdery, round vanilla sugared almond, almost a biscuit. It reminds me of a childhood smell of a bath gel pouring into the bathtub. As for longevity, I would say not so great, less than half a day, and then you have to reapply. As I said above, projection places itself close to the skin soon after an hour on me. But, considering the low price, this is not a disadvantage for me. The genre and the arrangements make me prefer this colony during the colder months; autumn is ideal. The spiciness at the beginning gives it masculinity, and it is fresh just enough to be worn for daytime use. A pleasant discovery, I did not regret the purchase, instead. A 100 ml at € 19 is always good for us, especially if the fragrance in question is delicious. After a full day wearing, I could say it is true that it vaguely recalls "Allure Homme Sport (Eau de Toilette) | Chanel", but Pure Black is more dense and vanilla.

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since October 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 25 days ago 5
8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

The Best Scottish Shortbread In The World
Shortbread is as simple as a simple cookie can get. But it's also divinely delicious. And for this reason, Shortbread has been a favorite across the UK for hundreds of years. The origin dates to around the 12th century, when people initially made it with leftover bread dough, which was left to dry and harden until it became "biscuit bread." Over time, the butter replaced the yeast, and the biscuit evolved into a shortcrust pastry. The term "short" refers to the crumbly texture because of a sizeable amount of butter. Since butter was a luxury item, nobles and royalty only enjoyed shortcrust pastry on special occasions. Traditionally, Scottish Shortbread is baked in a rectangular or square dish and cut into fingers, like individual round cookies, or in a large circle and cut into triangles.

And Sublime Epoque has a lot to do with traditional Scottish Shortbread pastry. It is rich in white flowers, heavily centered on tuberose, with nuances of musky, woody, and almost powdery accords. Undoubtedly sweet with vanilla, but also clean. In the beginning, I get a fresh, fruity, and, above all, creamy accord from the candied orange blossom plus a slight spiciness from the brilliant bergamot. The bergamot remains until the end as a pleasant note in the background. There is a peach note on my skin, which is not mentioned, something with a chewing gum impression. The opening is like smelling the spring breeze. Then, a clean, crunchy, and floral start with a bit of fruitiness.

While the creaminess becomes more and more acute in the heart, the sensual tuberose surfaces and merges with the orange blossom of the opening and the clean jasmine with a lower tone, not at all indolic. Jasmine is a delightful addition to the perfume's limited range of heart notes, and here it plays a supporting role rather than a primary role, making room for the majestic tuberose. The result is smooth, sweet, and buttery, so much buttery that it reminds me of the traditional Scottish Shortbread pastry, as mentioned in the beginning.

Let the scent dry and fuzzy white musk tones, combined with a more subdued presence of dry cedar and a heap of spiced vanilla, not overtly gourmand or cupcake-like, linger on the skin. White musk is supportive, as is cedar. Instead, vanilla is quite potent and adds warmth to the base, which helps give the flowers some expansion. The cedar undertone intrigues me and makes this fragrance sway more towards unisex—it may still be too floral and fruity for a man who typically likes "masculine" scents.

Pleasant, it is perfectly balanced and built around the note of tuberose. It is versatile and can be worn both in autumn and spring, and for any occasion of the day, of the evening, but also of the night. It projects perfectly and lasts well for many hours. No question, it is a delightful, crowd-pleasing scent. It's floral, a little sweet, and feels like you've just stepped out of the shower. It is not the most original combination of notes. I mean, I've already smelled a lot of recent scents similar to Sublime Epoque, and it reminded me of so many other musky-berry-sweet scents around. It's something like "My Way | Giorgio Armani", "L'Interdit (2018) (Eau de Parfum) | Givenchy" and "Bloom (Eau de Parfum) | Gucci". Become identical to each of those scents throughout evolution. Though, the small price makes it a suitable alternative to any of the previous. The sweetness and floral aspects make Sublime Epoque which tends towards a feminine gender, although more daring men might wear it.

I based the review on an 80ml bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 26 days ago 7
8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

Drops Of Memory
The memory of intense love. The emotion that this perfume conveys comes from a story that touches the soul personally and leaves the heart vacant, like empty rooms. The fragrance describes the sense of emptiness that losing the partner has left inside the seat in the transition. The "empty rooms" represent the absence, inhabited only by snapshots and memories of the past life together. They are the "drops of memory" that flow like tears and leave an indelible trace behind them. The ineffability or the inability to express what one feels, to measure the feeling, which is in this a feeling full of pain and nostalgia—inestimable, your absence is elusive that it belongs to me.

So what is Mémoire Intense about? It is nothing more than a sweet fragrance with a musky layer under it. A modern chypre, also known as pink chypre, which means citrus, floral, and earthy accords, is featured, with plenty of patchouli replacing the IFRA-prohibited oakmoss. An extreme and flamboyant refined perfume belonging to the floral and clean chypre olfactory family.

The first splash reveals an atmosphere of oriental jasmine and chypre against a background of woody vanilla, possibly from the cashmere molecule. Well, it opens with a burst of sweet, succulent, and pinkish bitter orange. It hooks me from that first breath of beauty. The bitter orange is substantial support, which prevents the scent from becoming too sweet. It is a large, fragrant rose with a realistic orange juice vibe as if the rose petals are floating on fresh orange juice. A perfume beginning that makes itself felt while being quite elegant. The sensation of clean citrus with pink brush strokes.

As it settles throughout the day, you feel the vanilla, musk, and woody base notes become clearer. Modern patchouli becomes quite prominent, giving the fragrance a more earthy feel. The roster features a chypre accord, from which I get notes of something woody, patchouli, cedar shavings, and creamy cashmeran, as well as a generous handful of woody vanilla, spicier than gourmand. I love the dry and persistent cedar and the vanilla woven into the musk at the end of the day.

In conclusion, it is a crowd-pleaser, a fascinating combination of sweet, clean, and fresh chords. A perfect fragrance to wear in hot and cold seasons, from autumn to winter, day or night. I love the grace and elegance of Mémoire Intense highlighted through the chypre structure. It is balanced between the woody base and the floral heart, with such a warm and woody fragrance and a sensual touch. However, the formula is very complex, while the scent is airy and pleasant at the same time. I love the mystery of this essence, which is captured by the notes of patchouli and the floral heart composed of rose and jasmine, which I perceive intensely. In short, to better convey the idea, this fragrance is very close to the genre proposed by "Idôle L'Intense | Lancôme", also built around a chypre accord.

I based the review on an 80ml bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium
1 Reply

Elysium 27 days ago 5
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Marvin Gaye's Smooth Soul
Geez, Iceberg Man is so smooth, stylish, and romantic as Marvin Gaye's quiet soul! It is a kind of like leathery scent with hints of pepper, tar, coffee, light tobacco, and so forth, while not smelling like any of them. I am meditating on the interplay of citrus, spicy and floral notes. They gradually yield a massive patchouli base warmed by creamy amber here enriched with resinous constituent elements of benzoin cistus and styrax. For "Shalimar (Eau de Parfum) | Guerlain" and "Héritage (Eau de Toilette) | Guerlain" lovers, this could be the pinnacle of his expression.

It has a beautiful opening that comprises lemon and nutmeg goodness, though I don't get too much zestiness from the lemon. It tingles and sparkles like light brown amber crystals, with a soft touch of mild pepper that makes the scent sharper, spicier, and edgier.

Not long after the initial opening, the light spicy aroma warms as a wonderful creaminess smooths out the sparkle. Here it comes, the tricky part. Cistus, labdanum, and rock rose. Some people think it must be the smell of heaven, and others believe it's the smell from hell. The rock rose is deep, diffusive, musky, and sweet balsamic reminiscent of true labdanum, with a dry, warm, earthy, herbaceous undertone. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest. And just a pinch of lavender, not all too much.

Anyhow, if you wear Iceberg Man and wait about 3 hours after application when most of the sweet notes have faded and the slightly leathery, woody base is prominent, that's mostly labdanum. There is a hint of patchouli and styrax, which combined gives a kind of dark chocolate-like tone, but most of the woody and thick, resinous, syrupy, or tar-like notes are primarily thanks to labdanum.

In the base, eventually, the perfume moves away from the enjoyably edible and takes on a more traditional amber and powder tone. Benzoin and styrax control the stage, and they are mixed stupendously. Iceberg Man feels as if it should be bulky and hefty, but it remains restrained and contained. In the end, Iceberg Man endures an amber hue of masculinity wrapped up in gentle sophistication.

It is the second time I'm wearing Iceberg Man. The first was a night out for attending an event, and I got tons of compliments, this time at the office. The sillage is moderate and close to my arms, which is pretty good for co-workers. Still, the longevity is ridiculously incredible, 12 hours, I would bet, seriously. I prefer wearing Iceberg Man in cold weather. The richness in spices, resins, and woods makes this cologne ideal for fall days and evenings out. So hardest days and nights, Fall, Winter, and early Spring. Warm, welcoming, slightly sweet but not at all cloying. Definitely a hidden gem of a fragrance if there ever was one. Genderless, in my opinion, the amber character makes it neither too masculine nor too feminine. Safe blind buys if you are fond of amber family, and "Coromandel (Eau de Toilette) | Chanel" is in your collection, dreams, or wish list.

In a few words, Iceberg Man is calming, warm, sensual, deep, and uplifting. I love it; a stunning fragrance. Beautifully woody, dry, warm sophistication with a perfect, never pushy yet long-lasting performance. It lingers and pleases the wearer for the entire day and leaves a trail of masterfully blended bright, humorous and vibrant aura. It can remind you of others' fragrances; people compare it to "Lui Rochas | Rochas", which I am unaware of, yes, but no comparison here because this one exceeds and supersedes them all. Bravo Iceberg!! I've ordered a tester backup online before it gets discontinued.

This review bases on a 100ml (3.4 Fl. oz) bottle I have owned since November 2016.

-Elysium
3 Replies

Elysium 1 month ago 5
8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

A Dusty And Somewhat Papery Smell
Majestic Opulence, Maestosa Opulenza, Majestätische Opulenz, Majestuosa Opulecia, Opulence Majestueuse, Μεγαλοπρεπής χλιδή... Each idiom has two magnificent words for expressing the meaning. ZARA has given this perfume this name. Opulent means are rich in appearance, showing great wealth, abundance, and luxury. And here, we find the root of the iris flower abundant. If you don't know what a powdery note is, guys, smell this fragrance, and the first thing that comes to your mind is "powdery"! It has a dusty and somewhat papery smell, which I imagine comes from cedar. The dusty accord that emerges from the first spray is dry, powdery, for a moment similar to the scent of lipstick. There is no doubt—lipstick is a powerful symbol of self-expression, celebrating the power of femininity - and the smell of lipstick only adds to its appeal. Special occasions came to mind when we borrowed our mother's lipsticks as children and when you feel eager to reach into a handbag to pass some color that lifts the spirit. So, if you lack a bit of courage, why not dress up in this fabulous lipstick-inspired scent? But this makeup effect does not last long because soon after, a woody facet rich in cedar shavings joins to create a darker and deeper note. Ah, what would I give for this nuance to last forever? I love the iris flower, in nature, and fragrances as alpha-methyl ionone. That sense of dry and clean, of baby powder, and combined with cedarwood creates something unique. It is not a secret that I am fond of "L'Homme | Prada", "Dior Homme Original (2011) (Eau de Toilette) | Dior", "Ferré for Men (Eau de Toilette) | Gianfranco Ferré", "Frescaessenza | L'Erbolario", and "Santal 33 (Eau de Parfum) | Le Labo", to mention a few.

Majestic Opulence in an Asian-inspired Eau de perfume, and like "Golden Decade | Zara", it turns around the honeyed orange blossoms. It was my second choice in the ZARA Chapter 3 collection while quickly checking the new collection in the store. It opens in a curious composition of exuberant freshness, fruitiness, and powderiness. It begins with a chalky, almost waxy raspberry note that is very reminiscent of lipstick, and I found it just spicy enough to make my mouth water without being cloying.
Yes, there is fleeting bergamot, but there is also a bite dust base. It is dry, papery, sour, and powdery altogether.

It then slowly warms up on the skin and becomes a lovely, sophisticated, and slightly sweet scent, vanilla-sweet powdery iris note with an undertone of orange blossom and raspberries—such a wonderful scent. I love the orange blossom note used here as in the Gaultier fragrances, so well done and distinctive. But that is not the only flower used here; some rosy, akin to rose petals or geranium leaves, oozes from the heart.

The dry-down is not musky. Instead, it is floral vanilla with a sweetness seeping through. Vanilla and iris flower reflects sublime femininity touched by these oriental notes. The vanilla base is there, but it's not overwhelming and helps anchor the sharpness of the initial spritz. Nevertheless, I found the scent almost genderless, with both feminine and masculine facets. Despite the sweetness, it never goes into cloying territory. That buttery orris vibe sets the right mood for the final smoked vanilla. It is used here in its amber, authentic, and friendly way, with fruity and burnt nuances reminiscent of crème brûlée.

Gentle and comfortable, a fantastic choice for everyday use. I see it as an inoffensive sweet scent suitable for office and leisure—average longevity versus a moderate projection, something more intimate not filling the room. I would reach for it during the middle seasons; spring and fall days match with it perfectly. Finally, let me say that although certainly the color of the bottle and the notes may suggest that it is a very feminine perfume, I see it perfectly wearable for a man. Of course, you know that you are wearing a scent that is on the borderline. But for those men who love fragrances like "Dior Homme Original (2011) (Eau de Toilette) | Dior" or "Gentleman Givenchy (Eau de Parfum) | Givenchy" I encourage you to try it.

I based the review on an 80ml bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium
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