ElysiumElysium's Perfume Reviews

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Elysium 1 month ago 3
8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

Loose And A Little Androgynous
Most current fragrances smell the same to me nowadays, but I like that this one is just a little lighter and cleaner than most floral fragrances. It has a thick laconic creamy sweetness mixed with an aromatic touch. Many fragrances speak of being androgynous, and this one seems semi-demanding to me. There is something about the amber juice within the new scent that makes it very decadent and attractive.
Golden Decade is floral, creamy, spicy, with a cloud of light smoke. It mixes burnt orange blossoms, smooth vanilla, a healthy dose of bloom, and luminous amber. It's very harmless - if you're picturing a generic floral orange in your head, you can probably smell it already. I like it; it is delightful and has a unique twist with orange blossoms. It smells like a gourmand masculine fragrance, something like "The One for Men (Eau de Toilette) | Dolce & Gabbana" or "Emporio Armani - Stronger With You | Giorgio Armani". But it's just an observation, and I do not discuss tastes.

In this Eau de parfum, with a warm dark amber colour similar to a fine cognac, the olfactory pyramid includes citrus, aromatic, floral, and amber accords. When I apply the fragrance for the first time, I notice the citrus fruits, which have a fresh and sweet scent without being overly tart. Indeed, it is both charming and immaculate at the same time. It's a bit androgynous and reminds me of the opening of Libre Intense. It looks smooth from the start without being a gourmand at all.

The perfume then transforms into a sweeter, warmer, and more floral atmosphere. A mix of orange blossom and jasmine makes it pleasant, creamier, soapier. I especially notice the first soiled by a touch of sweet lavender on my skin, not necessarily herbaceous or too aromatic. Even if they are present from opening to complete dry-down, the orange blossoms are the queen of the territory and dominate the heart.

The creamy tones of the base notes manifest themselves in the dry down. It becomes hotter, smokier, and more resinous. The bottom is so sensual, with just the right amount of warm, creamy vanilla and roasted tonka bean. Vanilla has a caramel-like appearance. The cologne lasts very well on my skin and is addictive, and I want to keep sniffing my wrists and clothes. As the fragrance matures, it becomes bold, honeyed, syrupy, and sweet on vanilla and smokes, but not in a type of incense smoke, more of a tonka bean smoke, which blends perfectly with vanilla.

What else to say? It's an amber, big-hearted floral fougére with a welcoming vibe but still lively and robust. It has a slightly masculine and earthy edge that completely prevents it from tipping over into femininity. It is an easy-to-wear perfume, suitable for both day and evening. It doesn't project much, but it's an intimate, welcoming vibe that others around you will love, too. I think this will make the autumn-winter fragrance more beautiful. Love it! I do not find it disruptive. Indeed it is something already seen, especially in the character of "Mon Guerlain (Eau de Parfum) | Guerlain", "Baccarat Rouge 540 (Eau de Parfum) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian", "Classique (Eau de Toilette) | Jean Paul Gaultier" and "Libre (Eau de Parfum Intense) | Yves Saint Laurent" above all, but still beautiful. It is elegant and sexy, lasts many hours, and smells better as time goes by.

I based the review on an 80ml bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium
3 Replies

Elysium 2 months ago 3

The Wonderful Wizard of Oz
Who has never seen a red wilderness of poppies overlooking the ears of wheat at the beginning of summer? Poppies are wildflowers that grow spontaneously and bloom from spring into early summer. The red petals are like rice paper, but alas, they have no scent. So why use poppy to promote a perfume like Kenzo Flower? Perhaps because its ephemeral beauty, strength, and delicacy express everything this perfume has. Noteworthy, following the trench warfare in the poppy fields of Flanders, Belgium during World War I, poppies have become a symbol of remembrance of soldiers who have died during wartime.

Despite being on the market since 2000, I only discovered it these days, and I immediately fell in love with it. Alberto Morillas’ nose brought together the floral accord, which gives delicacy and sensuality, added the powdery and musky accord, which gives a feeling of intimacy and finally the vibrant accord of smoky resins that introduces an almost mystical note. Published as a masterpiece that remains very modern, not at all dated or taken for granted. When I sprayed it, it smelled of purple, softness and talc, like the dressing process of a sophisticated woman. It was exotic, completely different from the fresh perfumes that women are currently wearing.

Flower shows a head full of a floral accord, similar to a slight shiver that encloses the Bulgarian rose, the Parma violet and the citrusy Sicilian lemon. While I don’t have strong tartness, what reaches my nose is an explosion of fruit along with powdery purple and sour berries. A floral opening, a subtle balance of purple and pink. Ouch, it’s so damn good and captivating. The scent is immediately light, fresh, a flowery sweet.

Let the overture calm down, and immediately a lemonade magnolia blooms, rich in the accord of iris talc and the scent of synthetic hedione, a jasmine-like odour. Resinous opoponax, which is a kind of honeyed myrrh, reinforces its sweetness. Behind that lipstick vibe, there is subtle rose water, which dilutes the otherwise overly opulent blend. To keep everything clean, a musky touch exudes from the heart of this essence.

But Flower is more than that. Apart from the floral and powdery facets, the base releases a smoky accord of incense, smoky but not too ecclesiastical, which merges with a whisper of dark vanilla, which makes it more intense. It is not too sweet in vanilla, and it is my opinion that it is because of the woody base and the opoponax that rounds the vanilla.

It is a persistent but delicate fragrance. Beast mode as for longevity, over six hours. Nice to see and wear, to try at least once in a lifetime. Kenzo Flower is a beautiful example that shows that impressive sillage and enormous lasting potency don’t have to conflict with a nuanced and delicate overall impression. A powdery floral with an inimitable signature. There is a lot of resistance to this perfume. It is appropriate for day wear and casual events, and it is an ideal perfume for spring and summer. I love it. Did I mention that already?

I based the review on a bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium
1 Reply

Elysium 2 months ago 3
9
Scent
5
Longevity
4
Sillage
9
Bottle

The Spirit, Soul or Character of its Being
The essence of something is its primary and most important characteristic, which gives it its identity. The name of the eau de toilette, besides being a synonym of “perfume”, refers to the “proper and immutable reality of things”, but also to the “most important part of something”, recalling the pure Italian spirit of the brand that has always set it apart. Tonino Lamborghini Essenza gives freshness and awakens that feeling of absolute pleasure in contact with the sea and the Italian sun. The cologne was on my wish list after I bought its brother "Invincibile | Tonino Lamborghini".
Essenza is spotless, fruity, soapy, woody, aquatic, fresh, slightly spicy. I love this frag, and I bought it blindly. I am a guy who loves manly frags, but this one feels so pleasant and unisex. Soft, fresh, white floral, which isn’t too feminine, nor overly sweet, and I can see both men and women wearing this one. Some choices can never go wrong. The scent is very woody, with a floral hint but not wholly floral. I didn’t expect to like this fragrance that much, but it turned out to be much more pleasant than I thought.

Essenza takes off with a fresh squeeze of lemon zest; it is almost soapy in its composition, not overly spicy. It makes me think of the freshly grated lemon zest that is added to the cake mix. Green apple is also noticeable under citrus fruits, and soft, honeyed flower balances the tartness. There is a prominent note of sour lychee but then turns into a sweeter scent. Well-rounded from the start, not at all offensive, and quite soft.

As the scent moves into the heart, it becomes a little more floral, green, watery, and the citrus and fruit move into a delicate background scent. Subdued freesia shares the stage with a soft orange blossom, so soapy. However, the accord is not too indolic or flowery, but green and watery as if plant sap lingered. The addition of herbal vetiver keeps the heart brave so that green earthiness balances the floral mildness.

At the finish, the perfume reveals a pure amber accord stressed by sour fruity notes. The sensation of the dry cold of amber and the brightness of the floral and fruity green notes remain a light-dark, cold-warm oxymoron. It does not change dramatically on the skin, maintaining the fruit-amber pairing. The woody aspect of amber gives its fruity notes an intriguing character. However, we don’t have the sweet and sugary fruit punch, but something more like an abstract sketch. I adore the way the lemon zestiness blends with cedar shavings and mild teak wood; it is simply divine.

Essenza has an exciting and revitalizing breeze to it that is just so pleasant to the nose. This light, aquatic, citrusy scent is as timeless as your beloved pair of jeans, and it’s all you need to turn heads. Nobody will stop looking. I can picture myself wearing this fragrance on a warm and misty day for spring and summer seasons, safe for workplaces and cosy for leisure time. It represents the aroma of sparkling summer days yielding evocative evenings. Soothing, yet radiant. If you like fresh, summery, citrusy scents with a hint of floral and don’t mind a soap-like undertone, you’ll probably really like it. The sillage is marvellous. It never feels overwhelming, tiresome, or heady, like some heavy sillage fragrances, yet the shadow of the essence is always there. The price is phenomenal, not too expensive, really affordable for summer choice. Not beast mode, which is not bad if you need something safe for the office.

I based the review on a 75ml bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 2 months ago 2
10
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Crazy Little Thing Called Love
In Italy, there is a chain of department stores called UPIM, a historical one founded in 1928. Inside some stores, there is a perfumery, which, together with the most famous design brands, also houses the perfumes of Maison Royale. I had been looking for Plaisir Oriental for a long time, since last spring when it was introduced to the market; I appreciated its fragrance, and I immediately recognized and enjoyed its particularity. The other day I went there to see any news, and I found this little gem in promo in this period at €15.90 instead of €19.90. When I read the name, I knew I would like it. The only doubt was that some perfume I already own inspired it. Two sprays directly on the back of my hand, and immediately the surrounding air becomes thick, gummy, sweet. I smell smoky, earthy, amber, and spicy chords. The perfume immediately displaced me, captured, kidnapped, and transported me to another dimension. I immediately think of something of Montale or Mancera, even if I felt nothing rosy in it. Neither "Intense Cafe | Montale" nor "Roses Vanille (Eau de Parfum) | Mancera" . It is firm, penetrating, and pleasant at the same time. So oriental, amber, and genderless. They do not make it for the summer months, which is in these days, coming to an end. Late autumn and the harshest winter are better. Having bought it, I own almost all the other Plaisirs, which cannot be missing in the collection.

Once inside the house, I researched, and I discovered that this perfume, among its inspiration, comes from something niche that I do not know, precisely "Indomable | Morph". If the similarity is the same as the other half-siblings of Maison Royale, then I can say that the original must be something phenomenal. A sumptuous oud combined with cashmere wood and vanilla beans, a combination never dared before, a real olfactory jewel, timeless. It already manifested the stubborn character of this perfume on the top, where we find a contrast of resinous oud and creamy cashmere notes, a heart of patchouli and blossoms, and a base of musk and amber.

Plaisir Oriental belongs to the oriental-amber family and reveals itself with boozy, slightly medicinal, and creamy accords. There is a camphorous shade, like mothballs, not disgusting, instead of soothing and balmy. I recognize something alcoholic similar to rum, like a syrup made from sugar. There is a bit sumptuous oud, synthetic, but not as solid and penetrating as in the scents of the Middle East. It is a creaminess that resembles cashmere wood, that accord between musky and velvety.

Earthy, bitter oud meets the more syrupy accord reminiscent of Deglet Noor's date, with a soft honey-like taste that distinguishes it from other dates. Not too gourmand and pleasant to catch even on this not too hot summer's Sunday. In the heart, I get a velvety dry floral touch, akin to dried rose petals, the same as you found in the pot-pourri. Though, the rose is not mentioned among the ingredients. There are soft leathery nuances presumably from labdanum, which blend with earthy patchouli and tons of spicy clove buds.

And then it comes to the base, cozy, homey, and gourmand—clean and creamy hints of white musk fuse with brownish vanilla pods and salty ambergris. Here the woody and medicinal note of the oud is tempered, softened by amber and sugary notes. The result is a warm, sensual and mysterious fragrance, which, especially with these warm temperatures - gives its best and can project instantly into scenarios of a thousand and one nights. Not excessive for me, but with the different components well harmonized with each other.

Ultimately, Plaisir Oriental is a syrup-coated oud that will appeal only to those who are not put off by this overly indulgent style, and it has irresistibly drawn many to it. This, I find, would be nice to scratch off the occasional sugar craving, not something I would reach often. It's straightforward: saturated sweetness is the critical event, and it doesn't get messed up by including weird off notes for "interest." Instead, there's synthetic oud for a more extensive body and vanilla in pure candy mode. Finally, a mix of lovely patchouli and a pinch of cloves and musk complete the scent. It is among the most popular sweet fragrances, an intense perfume characterized by the long "trail" it releases and its persistence. Sillage and projection are extreme, more than the other fragrances of the same brand. On the skin, it lasts all day, while vaporized on fabrics it resists the day after. Plaisir Oriental is a Crazy Little Thing Called Love.

I based the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since September 2021.

-Elysium

Elysium 2 months ago 3
9
Scent
2
Longevity
2
Sillage
8
Bottle

Myths and Legends from Around the World
I perfectly remember "Chrome (Eau de Toilette) | Azzaro", released in 1996. I've always been a big fan of it, and it was my signature scent that summer. That fragrance was disruptive, innovative, and fascinating simultaneously and immediately won many admirers. I have received many compliments for wearing it in the past, and the performance was not in question. I still find it a very enjoyable aquatic-metallic, certainly better than many other ordinary fragrances available today. Certainly a spin-off of the pioneer Chrome, you can feel its presence overall. Though, with so many notes in common, it is almost impossible not to share the same chords and vibrations. Yes, Chrome Legend and "Classic Black (Eau de Toilette) | Jaguar" are very similar, although the former has the same metallic DNA that sets Chrome OG apart.

First, I don't know why Azzaro removed the original cap by replacing it with the cheapest and crappy one and leaving the sprayer uncovered, with no ring around, like any low-low cost stuff. Neither my beloved ZARA nor any other discount like LIDL or DM looks less cheap than this. Oh man, the bottle appears so incomplete, the same as "Aspen for Men (Cologne) | Coty" or "Blue Stratos (Eau de Toilette) | Shulton", all now made by Coty. Anyway, this is a pleasant fresh laundry type of scent, very aromatic in all the right ways. It's fresh and enjoyable. The performance is a little weak on my skin, but this is a banger and not a generic blue cologne. I don't know why the rating is so low.

Chrome Legend welcomes a boost of sharp and fresh open sea air with a sour and green solid apple shortly after the tea. Something more like an English tea, not a la "Green Tea (Eau Parfumée) | Elizabeth Arden" or similar. Bitter orange is subdued and a little dark. It adds sourness without turning the fragrance to citrus. Hence, an oceanic-fruity introduction, but it is not your typical aquatic. Those top notes combine so cleanly and clearly, and you get the feel of fresh water and breeze from it. The fruits are not cloying, and the otherwise abused green tea note seems to work here just fine.

The heart is green and watery, with that metallic DNA vibe of the OG but muted. The abundant heart notes give it its magic. That polished metal smell morphs into a rich, vibrant green. Then for the rest of the scent, I get fresh linen, green, and slightly aquatic. I get mossy from the oak, some harshness from coriander, the greenness of the ivy, laundry muskiness from the lichen, and the whole tinged with spicy floral from jasmine, cyclamen, and hedione.

The dry down is sweet but slightly woody and earthy. A pleasant creamy musk and soft moss are the backbones of the cologne. Vetiver is grassy, with dry cedar and enough sweetness from amber and tonka. Resin and woods make it very nice. Radiates a fresh herbal atmosphere, purifying, like a watered garden. The ground has a slightly British smell due to the tea having taken entirely over. It remains herbaceous all the time but gradually gives the aroma maturity. And after a while, a metallic note enters the chord and lasts for a lifetime.

Ultimately, Chrome Legend is a non-linear scent that transitions from an initial sharp citrus-fruity accord through a watery-metallic heart and a final mossy trail. It is the perfect wear for spring and summer, and the sharpness of this fragrance is for warmer days and perhaps nights. It is much smoother than "Chrome (Eau de Toilette) | Azzaro", adds a refreshing fruity twist, and is not sentimental or feminine. As I said above, the performances are not beast on my skin. I get a diminished projection for an hour, and then it becomes a skin scent. It's still there after a few hours, but I barely smell it; on me, it doesn't seem to have great sillage, more it does not fill a room. I don't know if my bottle's batch is weak or is counterfeit. The batch code seems genuine on both box and bottle. Consider clothes hanging out to dry in a lush grass field with ocean waves crashing in the distance. Chrome Legend is a great fresh scent, not top quality at all, but great value.

I based the review on a 75ml bottle I have owned since August 2021.

-Elysium
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