Elysium

Elysium

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Elysium 2 hours ago 1
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
Teach Me How To Love Yyou
"Lail Maleki | Lattafa / لطافة" and Oud Lail Maleki are two Lattafa perfumes that have always attracted my attention every time they appeared on online sites, with that beautiful Arabian horse imprinted both on the box and the bottle, but in the end, I always gave up and opted to buy other perfumes from the same brand. And perhaps I was always wrong because in my last purchase, I also added this, and it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. I’ll tell you that I’m not sure I can perceive exactly the olfactory notes reported here or on other sites, and that I haven’t found any information on the official website since it has been discontinued in the meantime and only the original perfume is present. But I will try to describe my sensations, the notes and the chords that I perceive on my skin.

Oud Lail Maleki, which comes in a transparent bottle with brownish amber juice, is an intense oriental perfume with floral and woody notes, with a heavy slant towards Arabic fragrance. Its name in Arabic should translate as Royal Night, and it opens with a blast of camphoraceous and leathery accords, right in your face, and oud, so dominating from the very beginning. For the sake of clarity, it is not an unpleasant out, not barny, not fecal, not tarry, not skanky, but just a tad medicinal. Behind this dense and deep aroma, there is the presence of a note reminiscent of forest honey or honeydew, the slightly dark wild one, with all those bittersweet nuances typical of that variety of honey. Incidentally, forest honeydew, unlike other classic kinds of honey, is not produced starting from the nectar of flowers but rather from the bees’ collection of the sugary secretions present on different plant species in wild forest environments. The initial phase is therefore very leathery, woody, and medicinal, almost camphorous, which could make hasty and impatient people immediately throw in the towel.

Once the initial impact fades, the perfume evolves into a beautiful scent that keeps getting better and better, transitioning into a sweeter, fruitier, and more floral phase. I smell aqueous accords, those characteristics of freesia, but not marine accords of ambergris or calone, together with something dense, a gelatinous and dried fruit, that smell released by ripe fruit dried in the sun, like California plums. It’s a little caramelized without taking on the toffee or praline tones. Meanwhile, that balmy and medicinal undertone remains, which now joins a bouquet mainly composed of jasmine, lily of the valley, and gardenia, which emerge dense, carnal, and hypnotic. The iris is strongly tamed. It gives just a powdery veil, but it is not dominant and does not present its buttery lipstick side. The honeyed accord persists, perhaps thanks to flowers such as ylang-ylang, and in this phase, the perfume could have momentum towards fragrances associated with the feminine gender, while maintaining its virile and dark side.

The accords of the middle phase last a few hours before the perfume takes a new direction, this time rich in woods and vanilla notes. The base consists of several elements, but the ones that I get most are the creamy sandalwood and sweet vanilla, with just a hint of leather and musk. The last stage is warm, less scary and less powerful than the initial blast. The overall trail is sugary, but not cloying, rather caramelized but not burnt.

Finally, I found Oud Lail Maleki an irresistible oriental perfume that is lavish with its appeal and very suitable for late afternoon, evening, and night events or festive occasions. Definitely a perfume to wear during the colder months of autumn and winter, and perhaps even early spring. I would exclude the summer months, the presence of accords that are too dense and sweet because of the high temperature. High performance, both in projection and in persistence on the skin. It is obvious that it is not a perfume designed for the masses, but I recommend it to those who love the Arabic genre, a perfume that leaves its mark, stands out, is affordable, and underrated.

I'm basing my opinions on a bottle I've owned since April 2024.

-Elysium
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Elysium 2 days ago 1
10
Bottle
6
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Flaming Red Like The Alfa Romeo Giulietta
After purchasing Opulent Oud, and Blue Oud, I decided it was time to tackle Opulent Red by Lattafa, a perfume often associated with "Armani Privé - Rouge Malachite | Giorgio Armani" and "Alien (Eau de Parfum) | Mugler". To start, Opulent Red is beautifully packaged in a red and gold satin, velvet box containing a handcrafted glass bottle, crafted in the same gorgeous colours, a lacquered, metallic, intense and shimmering red. The Alfa Romeo Giulietta car I had ten years ago comes to mind. It was exactly this metallic cherry red colour. Well, the packaging is the same as Lattafa’s other Opulent items, both in the package and in the bottle. I can anticipate that this Eau de parfum is striking because of the intensity of its aroma and the fragrance that belongs to the fruity floral group. From the packaging and the bottle, the first impression could be that of something strongly fruity, sweet, sugary or gourmand. And this, perhaps, is what pushes people to refrain from purchasing it.

Opulent Red opens with a blast of aldehydes and strawberry bubblegum. I immediately perceive the dense, sweet and syrupy floral heart notes, with sambac jasmine and tuberose, which perhaps create a bubblegum effect. I can understand why other people associate this fragrance with Alien, they have too much in common in this explosive and intense opening. Yes, they are like two parallel lines, going in the same direction but never meeting. There’s a fruity undertone, not sure if it’s pear, but definitely something semi-sweet and juicy, I think, thanks to the blood orange peel and pulp. The cool spiciness of the cardamom is there, not too heavy, not overpowering, just refreshing, so it never becomes too minty or balsamic. But there is a generous touch of pink pepper, so you must like it because it is noticeable in the initial phase.

The heart is opulent. Here we are, thanks to heavy tones of jasmine, tuberose and heliotrope. The first two appear already at the opening, and jasmine is dominant compared to tuberose, while later the almond aspect of the heliotrope exudes and takes part in the scene. Even if it is not too nutty, its vanilla and almond characteristics are perceptible behind the pink woodiness of the Brazilian wood. Sometimes I even get a deep musky note from the green moss, like the moss that grows in the damp, shady forest. I think this dark musk blends very well with the sweetness, keeping Opulent Red from becoming cloying. Well, I don’t get any alcoholic accord in this or other phases, those of the Cognac which should be among the heart notes.

Finally, Opulent Red leaves a sweetish powdery trail. Oud is not used in overdose and is never medicinal, scary, or barny. A tamed patchouli balances the otherwise too-sweet base with notes of creamy sandalwood, velvety and mossy cashmeran and toasted tonka bean. If you add vanilla on top of all this, it might become cloying, but instead, it’s perfectly balanced. An oriental touch, not unpleasant, is what remains on the skin for a long time. I wanted to try the comparison with Rouge Malachite, which is very strong on the camphoraceous tuberose note. In Opulent Red, however, the jasmine note predominates.

Despite the adjective Opulent, this is not a beastly fragrance. However, it projects a lot in the first hour and lasts many hours, all day or until the next morning with nighttime application. For me, it was a blind purchase, since in Italian stores it is not available as a Middle Eastern fragrance for testing. Furthermore, the fragrance needs time to become pleasant. It took me several tries to completely love it, and now the more I spray it, the more I get the beauty out of it. I’m wearing it this cold spring and I have to say it’s perfect. But I think it’s also great in autumn, both during the day and in the evening. If you love floral, slightly sweet scents, with a strong hint of jasmine and tuberose, and an impulse towards the feminine universe, then Opulent Red could be for you.

I based my feelings on a bottle I’ve owned since April 2024.

-Elysium
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Elysium 9 days ago 2
8
Bottle
4
Sillage
5
Longevity
9
Scent
The Clove, A Flower Believed To Be A Spice
Ferragamo Pour Homme is nothing new to me. I had used and loved the original version in the late 90s when the fig note was not as well known in perfumery. Perhaps this was the pioneer who started the chain of essences developed around the dominant accord of the fig, together with "Philosykos (Eau de Parfum) | Diptyque" and "Premier Figuier (Eau de Toilette) | L'Artisan Parfumeur". I remember my amazement when I smelled the perfume for the first time, so fresh, green, yet dry and milky. And its bottle slightly twisted on itself like a propeller. Then the perfume was discontinued, while I still kept a few drops to remember it every time I felt the need. You can imagine my joy when a few years ago the perfume reappeared on the shelves, at an almost ridiculous price. And this is how I came back into possession of this little esteemed jewel, both in the men’s and women’s versions.

The opening of Pour Homme is fresh and dry, milky, figgy, and semi-sweet. I immediately pick up the fig leaf nuance, it's straightforward. Something woodsy lingers behind the milky accord, with dark florals and tamed citrus fruits. Albeit it is refreshing, there is not much sourness, just the bitterness from the grapefruit. After a few minutes, I get the mineral and dusty facets of the fig element. Let’s say that fig and grapefruit work together well. Ouch, this is unexpectedly a very complex opening, not a scent profile you see very often in daily life, with a clean, sweaty slant from the cumin, or caraway, that blends gracefully with the milkiness but is still not obnoxious or repugnant. Green, milky, and leafy are the main nuances of the initial phase. Not aquatic at all, not too citrus, just mineral.

The fragrance just began and already told me a lot. Soon it moves towards a darker and more dusty accord. Balmy, a tad floral, and powdery comes to the heart. Cardamom and blossoms give off a balsamic aroma, so soothing, classic, and fancy. A lot of powderiness comes from the orris, which is not lipstick-like. The rose does not scream, while the carnation is the star of the middle stage, so real, so vivid like the purple flowers freshly cut at dawn with some dewy drops over. Sometimes, the carnation has a clove-like smell, spicy, which might be off-putting if you are not a lover of that spice and flower. But clove has nothing to do with carnation. The clove, a flower believed to be a spice.

In the drydown, the green is still present, but now the woody and musky elements come to the fore and Pour Homme becomes very virile and musky. The cedar overwhelms the sandalwood, with its pencil-shaving vibes, while the musk gives it a touch of class without making it dated. Lastly, the herbaceous and green sides of vetiver govern the last stage, not too dirty, but rather clean and pure. Compared to other fragrances centred on the fig note, this one is very dry, green, and mineral. There is not the sweetish part of the ripe fruit, but that of the leaves, wood and sap. The leathery aspect is tamed, so mild that I wouldn’t describe the fragrance as leathery.

Fig is the strongest note, green or not yet ripe, not sweetened, neither dried nor stewed. Noteworthy. Projection and performance are both moderate. It clings to the skin slightly when drying, which is perfect. Ideal for the office, or when you need something that doesn’t scream too much. It seems like the kind of fragrance you’d want to wear when you’re in close contact with people. I like to wear this fragrance during spring and summer days, and also on rainy autumn moments and evenings. Still a great one if you are fond of milky and mineral accords.

I'm formulating my experience on a bottle I've owned since Oct 2020.

-Elysium
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Elysium 14 days ago 1
8
Bottle
5
Sillage
6
Longevity
9
Scent
Getting Lost In A Dream World
It doesn’t seem real to me. I’ve had my eyes on these AA perfumes since they were launched on the market in 2020, but the average 50ml format compared to the slightly higher price has always discouraged the purchase. Until today, when the Tigotà chain of stores put this Tonka Musk on super-promo, at €19.90 the EdP. Without hesitating for a moment, I put it in the cart and now it is in my collection. Meanwhile, I’m waiting for the right time to arrive at "Amber Musk | Alyssa Ashley" and "Rose Musk | Alyssa Ashley" too. Others were added in the following years, but these three represented the first big breakthrough after the original Musk. Before describing the perfume, I would like to point out that Alyssa Ashley's perfumes, despite often being very affordable, are not of poor quality and indeed, often include noble raw materials and ingredients, and the noses that create them are also prestigious.

What to say about it? An unexpected explosion of toasted bitter almonds is what I smell at the opening. Unexpected, because my nose and my mind are calibrated on white musk with hints of blackberry, my instinct expects a variant of this accord, and this bitter almond aftertaste catches me unprepared. It is very strong and inebriating, perhaps the result of the ingenious melange between cinnamon and tonka. I imagine myself spreading a mix of cinnamon sticks and tonka beans on a baking tray, and then baking them at a medium, slow temperature to toast them; throughout the kitchen, and slowly throughout the house, this almond aroma spreads, a little gourmand but very bitter and not nauseating. The cinnamon arrives immediately, warm, and pungent, but not the sweetish cinnamon we are all used to. For example, you don’t feel the cinnamon-like in "Potion (Eau de Parfum) | Dsquared²", where the spicy aspect is very marked. Here it is already wrapped in a cloak of toasted tonka, on a sensual background of white musk, what we learned about with #ashley musk.

I let some time pass, and the cinnamon reduces its potency, leaving room for the tonka. Its smell has caramelized facets, with tones of vanilla and almond. Sometimes I also find touches of hay and tobacco. However, tonka produces a smooth, very warm, and balsamic olfactory result. If I smell the box where I sprayed the perfume, I get alcoholic scents, almost reminiscent of the Amaretto di Saronno liqueur. The skin mitigates this nuance, which with its warmth and chemistry highlights the notes of tonka and the slightly animalic and salty notes of amber. Now the essence also takes on sweetish tones, which override the more bitter ones, while always remaining on the border between the masculine and the feminine, never too saccharine or saccharine and not even virile or rude.

Minutes, and hours pass, and the softness of musk and vanilla emerge in all their splendour. The fragrance takes on powdery, powdery and musky nuances. Now it’s a skin scent, but its warmth and delicate sweetness can be perceived if you get close to the places where it was sprayed. Clean and powdery is the last trail.

Tonka Musk is not intrusive, despite having an important character. In its evolution, it touches accords of almonds, coumarins, and caramel, as well as musk. I would say that both the duration and the projection are moderate, and those accustomed to the extraordinary performance of the original might be disappointed. But those who love intimate perfumes will appreciate this essence. If used in the cold seasons, in the autumn and winter months, the perfume can be worn both during the day and in the evening. It is good for going to work, or for dinner or an evening event. Did I like it? Yes, it did not disappoint my expectations, and I have not regretted the purchase.

I wrote the review based on a bottle I have owned since April 2024 (BC 3501268A, PD 2021-09).

-Elysium
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Elysium 18 days ago 1
8
Bottle
5
Sillage
5
Longevity
9
Scent
Most Of Me Is A Dream
If you search with the subject “Ferré for men”, you will get two corresponding perfumes with that name, but completely disjoined from each other. I’m talking about "Gianfranco Ferré for Man / Gianfranco Ferré Homme (Eau de Toilette) | Gianfranco Ferré" and "Ferré for Men (Eau de Toilette) | Gianfranco Ferré". The first is historical, perhaps the progenitor. It dates back to 1986 and was produced by Diana De Silva; it is a virile, opulent perfume, with very accentuated leathery and chypre features, typical of when oakmoss was allowed and used in profusion. In those years, Italian fashion designers could be counted on one hand, and Ferré was among them, along with Armani, Valentino, Krizia, Versace, and Gucci. The last one, however, dates back to 2006 and was the first produced from the collaboration with the ITF group; That trend of masculine perfumes influenced it with an androgynous and unisex impetus, lightened and softened by a generous touch of velvety and powdery flowers. If I had to trace its olfactory journey, I would place it among the non-linear, a perfume that opens with hints of lipstick, then moves on to those of baby talcum, and finally closes with a soapy musk accord. Lipstick-like, creamy, and buttery are the nuances perceived among the initials accords, however not as marked as in "Dior Homme (2005) | Dior".

The opening is initially fresh, green, fruity and citrusy, but elusive, and very ephemeral. The powdery notes of iris reach my nose clearly, initially used here in the form of leaves. The blend of iris leaves and lavender creates a soft, rounded, creamy scent. Unfortunately, I cannot taste the sweet and sour nuances of pineapple, not in a frank way as #Aventus taught us. The lipstick effect does not last long, so don’t be scared by this initial scent and don’t focus only on its opening. As announced at the beginning, Ferré For Men very quickly leaves behind the typical lipstick accords to move towards shades more similar to baby talcum, flowery, pink, which is very reminiscent of the smell of Felce Azzurra talcum powder.

The heart notes should be mostly floral, but not all flowers are perceived in the same way. For example, the rose is beautiful, clean, dry, not gelatinous, never opulent, mixed with the dusty root of the iris and the greenish reflections of the geranium. More calm, however, are the notes of orange blossom or jasmine, tamed here. Overall, the heart is powdery but never too slender towards the female gender. It maintains that sense of cleanliness, which gives a sensation of freshness to those who wear it or those who feel it up close. I must recognize that the master perfumer Pierre Bourdon knew how to mix several ingredients, maintaining the perfume at an elegant and light level, well-mannered, almost elusive and imperceptible.

Finally, a new movement brings the perfume towards musky scents. It is in this last phase that the animalic notes of oakmoss and white musk are felt. Now the soapy musk aspects predominate in the perfume. Woody notes are almost missing, added to prolong the duration, as are the earthy ones of vetiver and patchouli. Their presence must be infinitesimal compared to the quantities used for coumarins or musks. Despite the mix of vanilla and tonka, the cologne is never too sweet or nauseating, maintaining a soft and light profile. Yet, this bizarre perfume with feminine traits maintains a classic, elegant, discreet and masculine character to the core.

Ferré For Men is an intimate, discreet perfume, and is suitable for those events where you don’t need to be noticed or the centre of attention. It is a ceremonial perfume, perfect for the groom, for a private dinner, or a gallant event. Alas, on my skin it doesn’t shine in terms of performance. My sense of smell gets used to it too quickly and I lose track of it after a couple of hours. However, I like what it offers me during that period, it makes me feel good, and it gives me serenity. Its delicacy makes it suitable for any time of day, evening or night. it’s a perfume that smells of spring, and this is the best time to wear it. If you feel more comfortable wearing lighter perfumes that will appeal to you and only those close to you, similar to "Dior Homme (2005) | Dior" and "Infusion d'Homme (Eau de Toilette) | Prada", you should try Ferre for Him.

I formulated my impressions based on a bottle I’ve owned since Nov 2015 (BC 11E14AH1, PD 2014-11).

-Elysium
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