EmergeR

If you deal with different fragrances of a perfumer, then you sometimes discover something like a "signature", a characteristic peculiarity that seems to run through all his works.
So also with this - comparatively unknown - work of Antonio Gardoni (Bogue Profumo) from Italy.
The idea of berceuse (French lullaby) and founder Will Carius is a collection of musical pieces that touches him strongly emotional. From these works, the perfumer may then choose a piece to serve as inspiration for the fragrance. In this case (and unfortunately the only fragrance from berceuse so far) it is the Allegretto (movement 2) of the 7th Symphony by Ludwig van Beethoven. A quite moving piece, as I find.
The corresponding fragrance revolves around the theme of vetiver. Even if the music sounds rather gloomy and melancholic, the fragrance comes to me with a certain cheerfulness. It is not heavy and oppressive, but runs circular and rather undulating with the Gardonis typical lactone notes over vetiver and green-herbaceous notes.
Who likes Gardoni's style, her / him the intensity of his works such as MEM, MAAI, DOULEUR! or LiTA but are too violent for everyday use, will find in Allegretto 7.2 a unique-characteristic and yet portable contemporary, which beguiles his environment rather than disturbs ...
For noses that have not yet smelled Gardonis, however, I advise against a blind purchase ;-)

I confess, I'm shocked. Nobody has been able to do that for a long time, especially since I deal with fragrances almost daily...
In my opinion MiC is quite different from all the other Dusitas. I like the handwriting of Pissara, I love "Issara", find "Erawan" exciting and so very different. Also all her florals are wonderfully complex and interwoven. But this one is really different. At first I thought unusually light and almost fresh. And yet it lasts all day long
It's hard to describe him. The yuzu is very present and not, as with many other fragrances, a hint between many other citrus fruits. With night jasmine I first thought of a classic jasmine scent, of course, but far from it. Night jasmine is a completely different plant and not even related to the classic jasmine. It has nothing "stinky", nothing Indian, is much more delicate than the typical white flowers. And under this beautiful weave of yuzu and night jasmine a soft but certain hint of nutmeg, which becomes more present in the fragrance.
MiC is for me in beauty and lightness the Yin to the warm and powerful Yang of "Issara". Simply enchanting, beautiful, a loving companion that envelops me like a light cloth of soft silk - so fresh that I don't sweat, so warm that I don't freeze - the perfect balance between grace and presence. Wonderful! ❤️

Don't get me wrong - I like Filippo and his creations. And I also like '_scusami_'!

Though I've been used to different things from him... Either incense in all variations from light to dark, or birch-tar-smoke, or calamus in 'epicentro' as a strange bitter-tart component. Something always had an edge. OK, maybe except for 'Pink_Nigra', which is just clear and pure

The first time I smelled it, I immediately thought of Mugler and his jasmine powder bombs, which you often smell miles against the wind. In terms of intensity, '_scusami_' is in no way inferior. However, delicious ripe fruits join in here, especially the mirabelle plum stands out pleasantly plump-juicy.

The fruit leaves us with the passage of time it remains a powdery-sugary bouquet of flowers that over the course of many hours, turns into a gentle, soft touch of light wood and musk...

Overall, the quality is again very convincing, but I would never have thought of Filippo in a blind tasting ;-)

Yes, I confess, I belong to the probably dying breed of gourmand fragrance lovers.
And yet I find this fragrance fascinating

Sounds weird. But it is!

Because "chocolate" is not a gourmand. Not really. Well, yeah, but not really. When I read "Chocolat", I think of a sweet piece of milk chocolate - preferably the one with the cow. But this scent is rather tart, slightly fruity, not over-sugared - more like a piece of dark chocolate dusted with a hint of cocoa. Do you know the situation when you hold the fork to your mouth when you eat tiramisu, inhale it by mistake and the cocoa flies to your palate so that you have to cough directly? That's about the same scent, only it's beautiful

Because of the bitter note I find it quite suitable for men, but personally I am free of pain anyway. Tom Daxon once said so beautifully that gender classification in fragrances is a pure marketing concept. I unreservedly agree with this

When I consider that the fragrance was created 23 years ago, it still feels a bit ahead of its time. For friends of unusual chypres, it's definitely worth a try.

Mr. Gardoni (architect and one-man-show called Bogue Profumo) is praised by Mr. Turin (scientist and controversial perfume critic). Now that my favourite shop in Cologne carries this brand I went for a walk with "Douleur!" for one day (on my arm, under my sweater...)
Let me put it this way: Strong tobacco, but without tobacco, but with a rose, but with a "different rose".
Rose scents are usually not very popular. They remind many people too much of the classic scents of their grandmothers. Therefore, for women often difficult and for men usually a no-go! What a pity actually.
The rose in "Douleur!" is not a classic rose - as soon as I sprayed it on, I noticed that it had an unusual penetrance, much brighter, less warm than I was used to from rose scents. And directly I had an association to another rose favorite: "Rose Alcane" from Æther. Here, however, there is no "real" rose, but rose oxide, a fragrance molecule that is one of the main components of real rose oil. The rose oxide lacks the depth and volume of a "real" rose. It is ethereal, almost slightly metallic, rather cool, as if you were blowing pulverized rose petals into the air and simply leaving out everything else like structure, stems, thorns (which are actually spines). I myself have always found fragrance molecules very exciting and inspiring.
While "Rose Alcane", however, consciously takes this approach and emphasizes the metallic-etheric character, Mr. Gardoni (to whom I am also referring here to the use of rose oxide) does something else: he weaves an extremely complex carpet of "background aromas" that give the ethereal rose an incredible warmth, depth and penetrance. Sometimes fresh, fruity notes flash out, sometimes sweet, almost powdery ones, and in the background there is always a skilfully dosed animalism playing along.
"Douleur!" drowns out everything - it's a loud, but by no means shrill scent. On my skin it lasted about 10 - 12 hours, but on my clothes it was still noticeable two days later. It is definitely unique, and in contrast to the other Bogue scents, it centres itself much more strongly on a central theme (rose) and is therefore, despite its complexity, not quite as versatile as e.g. "MEM" or "MAAI", in which IMHO "happens" much more. Nevertheless solid, multilayered and portable work. Chapeau!