Emphvtic

Emphvtic

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Emphvtic 3 years ago 31 6
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
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Whiskey vs. coffee
That's how fast it goes...

At the latest when I ordered a bunker bottle of Baraonda (my current still has about 20ml content) at a great offer, I knew that Golden Dallah by Xerjoff will no longer long adorn my profile as a signature fragrance.

As always, I would like to say something about the bottle and packaging first.
Of all the Nasomattos, I like the bottle design the best with Baraonda, as the theme was extremely well hit here.
It is, as already said, a wooden-boozy fragrance and what fits better than a lid made of cork?
About the outer packaging can be argued, because it does not really look high quality to me. The idea with the travel lid, however, has been implemented great, which ensures that you can always enjoy his Nasomattos even when traveling, without the risk of damaging / losing the fantastic lid.

Also worth mentioning and praising is the spray head. I own 5 Zoologist bottles and there the spray head is already the hammer. Nasomatto tops that, however, again around the double. A long, sustained spray that releases a very fine fragrance mist.
The madness!

To the fragrance:

I'm a big fan of alcohol in perfumes and so I get my money's worth with the whiskey & rum notes here.
Baraonda starts with an extremely authentic whiskey note, which I have yet to enjoy in any fragrance as I have in Alessandro Gualtieri's masterpiece. Of course, there are many fragrance houses that work with rum, brandy & whiskey, however, I have not been able to find a fragrance that conveys this note as authentically as Baraonda. Many other fragrances simply become too sweet or the synthetics come out too strongly.
Nasomatto puts the wearer and bystanders in the middle of the production of the finest whiskey the world has ever seen / tasted / smelled.
Woody tones, a certain sweetness (probably coming from amber) and light spice (probably coming from ambrette) in combination with the whiskey result for me the absolute best fragrance I have smelled so far. Many may perceive this combination as exhausting, annoying or strongly intrusive, but I had already fallen head over heels in love after the first spray of my bottling.

As for the durability & sillage, all that can be said is that the scent is very persistent.
I sprayed the fragrance on at 07:00 this morning (4 sprays, 1 of which was on the sweater) and at 15:45 I still notice it all the time.
I have heard from many that as soon as I enter a smaller room, Baraonda "stands" in that room. I got that comment 13 hours after spraying it on.
So you get what for your money, which is why I rated the price-performance ratio accordingly.

The fragrance can be summarized as follows:

B oozy
A mber
R aum-filling
A mbret
O lfactory experience
N asomatto's masterpiece
D uring
A tembering

I for one love this fragrance and really enjoy wearing it. Whether in the office, for me alone at home or at parties (should be sometime again which ;) )

Thank you for reading!
6 Comments
Emphvtic 3 years ago 24 3
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Coffeebomb Extreme
Since I own the bottle of Golden Dallah, crystallized in my collection a fragrance that can push Oud Wood Intense from the coveted signature throne and will. That the two fragrances are not similar, I think I do not have to clarify here again, because they are two completely different fragrances.

First of all, I would like to talk about the presentation of Xerjoff.

Whether in the cheaper collection like "Join The Club" or the more expensive "Oud Stars" collection, of which I own the Alexandria III, Shunkoin & More than Words, an above-average quality is consistently put on the day.
The bottle comes beautifully packaged, in a detailed cardboard box that hides a box covered in dark red faux leather. If you open this, the fragrance is protected with a silk-like paper.
The flacons of the "Coffee Break" collection have a wonderfully chosen red-black color gradient, whereby the bottle becomes darker and darker towards the bottom. In addition, the golden details + the solid gold metal lid...A dream!

After the long intro now finally times to the fragrance.

As soon as one frees the fragrance from its bottle, one is almost swirled around by many different spices, whereby one can smell out at a certain distance also already something cocoa, hazelnut & coffee.
The spices themselves I can not smell out unfortunately individually and with guessing I do not really get further.
In my opinion, the fragrance does not go through a great transformation. The spices warp after about 20 minutes and Golden Dallah now shows its real self.
With the combination of a frankincense note (not at all sacral smelling incense!), the roasted coffee and the all-known Rose-Oud duo it really leaves me speechless.
The incense together with the coffee makes perhaps a little too long roasted coffee beans and thus a stunning scent. That Rose-Oud together are a strong team, I think I do not have to tell anyone.
Amber I personally do not really perceive here. Maximum very, very far in the background.
The base of hazelnut, cocoa & tonka always resonates and underlines this great composition, although I can easily perceive the tonka bean only after several hours.

There is nothing wrong with the durability of the fragrance and so Xerjoff extends my daily coffee break to just under 9 hours. The sillage should not be underestimated in this fragrance in any case and should Golden Dallah accordingly carefully dose. The first 2 hours it radiates like plutonium in my opinion. Up to the 6 hour he becomes quieter and quieter and then you can perceive him only in close proximity.

For me, this fragrance is always an experience and I do not regret a cent that I invested in this.

Thus, Oud Wood Intense must unfortunately make room for a new fragrance after just under 4 months.

Thank you for reading and if you're looking for a gourmand, uniquely enduring coffee scent, you should definitely try Golden Dallah!
3 Comments
Emphvtic 3 years ago 23 7
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
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Tame giant octopus
After I was allowed to test already 13 zoologist fragrances and already 2 moved in with me, I dedicate myself today to the octopus.

At the beginning it must be said that I am not a fan of aquatic fragrances. This one, however, interested me so much because of his reviews that I had to test it.

Regarding the presentation of the flacon, it has to be said that zoologists really do show an above-average quality here, which is naturally also reflected in the price. With the squid flacon, "Pirates of the Caribbean" vibes somehow come back to me. Even though Davy Jones doesn't look a bit like the picture, I still have to think about it.

On to what you're probably all here for. The scent!
After the first spray I take a lot of incense, pepper, salty notes and a shot of ink was. The scent is anything but an unpleasant, fishy aquat. No!
It brings a very pleasant sweetness to my nose and the incense keeps all notes, which could become unpleasant when overdosed, very well in check.
The benzoin and ambergris as a base note naturally ensure that animalism is not neglected. For me, however, it is definitely not an animal scent, as it has absolutely no smell of a fish market or similar.

Squid is with Camel one of the most portable zoologists, because all notes are perfectly matched. It remains salty throughout, but not obtrusively salty. Squid is a very mystical fragrance, with the theme more than perfectly realized. It smells like sea.
Not according to summer, sun, beach-sea (as for example Soleil Blanc does). But like the sea from "Pirates of the Caribbean". The octopus rises out of the sea and pulls the ship and crew with it.
Because of the ink, he reminds me while wearing it again and again of my first tattoo appointment and what fear I had to put under the needle.

I had Oud Mineralè on my wish list at the beginning and I had assumed that the two would be similar. After my test I can say that there are 2 completely different fragrances that have nothing in common. While Oud Mineralé for me was more of a salty, algy wave with a mild breeze, Squid is a warm, spicy aquat that knows how to play out its strengths and convinced me from the first second on.

The shelf life is about 6-7 hours and the sillage is absolutely ok. He is not an absolute breaker who knows how to put others in their place, but you will be noticed. Alone already by the unique scent composition.

In conclusion, Squid is really very complex, but this does not mean that it is not something for beginners. Quite the opposite. The fragrance is a perfect introduction to the animal house from Canada. Definitely test it!

Thanks a lot for reading!
7 Comments
Emphvtic 3 years ago 14 2
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
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Drunk, cigar-smoking pachyderm
I have already tested Zooloist's Camel, Elephant, Moth, Bee & Bat and Rhinoceros was the fragrance I found hardest to rate. I simply love Camel and Bee from opening to closing. I didn't really like Elephant, Moth & Bat.

The rhino doesn't want to please you directly. I had to test him several times because I found him really repulsive at first. In short: You have to give him several chances and not run straight to the sink if you don't like the opening.

When I got my bottling, I only smelled disinfectant and strong, smoky leather. I put the sample back in the cupboard and dealt with other samples.
Recently, however, I sprayed the rhino on my wrist and finally also around my neck. I got only bad feedback from all the people I showed the scent to, but he just wouldn't let go of me.

The top note is really extremely obtrusive and clears you out of the way. The mixture between the powerful rum and the citric bergamot makes you gasp for breath. However, it is by no means unpleasant or even disgusting for my nose.

The fragrance gradually dries and settles in the room. Heavy and always perceptible.
Every now and then you can perceive a light breeze of smoky sand, which again takes up the theme of the rhino and transports you into the glowing heat of the savannah with a light breeze. The leather base is always present and resonates for many hours.

Just imagine a rhinoceros crashing through your front door and settling down in your living room on the old leather armchair in front of the fireplace, demanding a glass of whisky from you and lighting up a thick Cuba cigar.

After about 10 hours the rhino has exhausted itself and apparently lies down to sleep. Until then, many hours pass, in which the scent becomes drier and drier.
The base then consists of the dusty sand of the desert and the smoky breath of the pachyderm.

It is absolutely understandable if you can't do anything with this composition, but for me it is perfectly realized and simply great. It is an exceptional fragrance. A fragrance that makes no prisoners. Either you like it or you avoid me.

Meanwhile a bottle of the 2014 edition is on its way to me (luckily I got another one) and I am very curious what the new edition of this year has to offer.
2 Comments
Emphvtic 4 years ago 31 4
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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The real Fucking Fabulous
First of all: There is absolutely no front against the "real" Fucking Fabulous. I love him.

Oud Wood Intense was initially one of the fragrances that never played a role for me. It was simply too expensive and not special enough for me. Well, wrong thought, meanwhile it is my signature scent

Before my time on Parfumo, I assumed that it simply smells like Oud Wood, only it performs better
After I filled my perfume cupboard properly in 2020, I thought that I would have to test the Intense version after all.
So I ordered a bottling and let myself be enchanted.

As a test: It was a warm summer day (about 28° degrees) and I was with my girlfriend in the local perfumery and we strolled through the old city centre of my hometown. After I showed her all the Tom Ford scents and she fell in love with Orchid Soleil, we went for an ice cream.
Oud Wood Intense was close on my heels, and I always noticed him.
Even those in the perfume shop asked me what I was going to wear
Oud Wood Intense has a maximum 5% Oud Wood DNA. The rest is incredibly difficult to put into words. Unique. Balsamic. Heavy. Just special.

About the fragrance: Tom Fords from the oud series are not necessarily known as truly authentic oud fragrances, which is absolutely justified. Oud Wood Intense, however, definitely goes in an oriental and almost authentic oud direction. It is much darker and well, almost a bit dirty. The leathery undertone, which is always noticeable, is not as tamed as the one in Tuscan Leather. I would describe it as rough and edgy. All in all, it blends beautifully with the bittersweet cypress. The scent is extremely complex and unique. For me it fits more into the warm season, because it brings a slight coolness.

Regarding sillage and durability: Intense is exceptionally meant seriously here. The fragrance lasts loosely on the skin all day long and on clothes for weeks. Due to the high projection 3-4 splashes are enough. I also wear it in the office and am super happy with it. (My colleagues also :D)

Overall, Oud Wood Intense is a slightly dirty and multi-faceted fragrance. If Tom Ford can't think of another name, could he be renamed "Fucking Fabulous" and this could be changed to, well...maybe "Almond Leather"? He definitely deserves a name of his own.

Thank you very much for reading! Definitely test it if you're into that and don't be put off by the words "Oud Wood"
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