ErhanSaceros

ErhanSaceros

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ErhanSaceros 3 years ago 4 2
8
Bottle
5
Sillage
7
Longevity
6.5
Scent
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No reference - Le(i)der not
In the attack, the subtle leather note reminds me of that of Le Male Essence. Elegant and sweet, combined with mysterious, aromatic smoke. I also perceive similar "vibes" of Tom Ford's Noir Extreme in the sweetness, but I don't want to suggest a fragrance twin. Overall, it all seems mature, attractive and chic, but there's nothing at all about fetish and leather (sex) in mind. The leather note is really much too subtle for that. And that doesn't change at all in the transition to the heart note. The scent does seem a little dark and gently smoky, but the sweetness presented is now far too tame and lovely, even if the carefully used milk note gives the sweetness a unique taste. The sweetness is very fine: not thick, not sticky, but thin-bodied and still palpable.
After two hours, the base note is already spreading. Smoke, leather and Co. disappear gradually very quickly, until a boring, resinous-matte, tart-sweet, discreetly acidic "mock leather note" appears (Styrax?). This is from now on for hours alone present and remains close to the body.

Overall, a rather disappointing composition, especially if you also consider the name. The fragrance really only scores in the first two hours before it loses its special character. But even with those special characters, the scent is not in the leather genre at all. With such a provocative and sophisticated name, you could have brought in a lot more "black", rubber and leather.
2 Comments
ErhanSaceros 3 years ago 10 2
10
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
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Trend reversal: is a new way of doing things emerging?
My expectations of new scents/concentrations of existing classics were not met here. And that's in a positive sense. I do not know why, but with the increase of Eau de Toilette on Eau de Parfum, I expected here a more intense, denser code. Fortunately, this is so but not arrived.

The Eau de Parfum has a much stronger sillage and better durability. But here I want to clarify again that a strong sillage has nothing to do with intensity. The sillage here is indeed far-reaching, but in no way thick / oppressive, sultry or just intense. I like that!

I noticed something similar with Le Male Le Parfum and admired this way of doing it. That after all the EU ban madness and cheap manufacturing cost mentality of the designers, a fragrance lands on the shelves that is strong enough, I have honestly not expected.

I draw the conclusion that new ingredients or ways of making them are now being accessed. Also, this fragrance may also be a sign that sweet men's fragrances will have a more balanced, darker, sweet composition in the years to come.

Code EdP begins freshly fruity with a slightly herbaceous spiciness and the lightly woody, typically olive-floral-laced Code sweetness. After an hour, the scent seems much smoother and the fresh-fruity top note is gone. What I find funny is that after three hours, this very fragrance, has a Le Male Le Parfum twist in the sillage. On the skin, however, the typical Code DNA remains. In the base, you can not deny a slightly hidden, synthetic note.

In the past, one would probably have found this fragrance very sweet, but compared to today's fragrances, the sweetness in this fragrance is (er-)tragbar. Yes, seems sugary-dark-spicy; also elegant, attractive and ripe; but at least not saturating, sultry or too sticky.

You really shouldn't expect a 1:1 picture of the regular Code with better performance here, though. There are so some differences to perceive, even if they are not large enough to change the code.
2 Comments
ErhanSaceros 3 years ago 11 1
10
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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A tree to hug
No! Not like King Söder once did. Not in such a half-hearted and distant way. This tree from the house of ELDO, I want to hug it tight. Never let it go. And sniff it constantly.

I can usually do little with woody notes in perfumes. I'll happily put up with them as supporting actors/supporters, but when they take center stage, I quickly get bored. Woody notes are for me often unlively, inflexible, stubborn, boring and (too) dry.

Now here I have discovered a woody that truly blows me away. Whether synthetics play a role in the patchouli oil fractionation for the extraction of Akigalawood, I can not judge. Chemistry was unfortunately my weakest subject.

But god, is that woody note so authentic! It seems cool, breathy, smoky, alive, fresh (sawn), and partly damp. It is not somehow transparent or hazy to perceive. It is crystal clear, spicy looking, and close enough to touch. I feel very safe with it, and in the process, something familiar is triggered in me. Whether I have smelled a similar woody note in the forest, in my grandparents' village or even in other fragrances, I can't say. But the fact is that I do not get rid of this homey feeling.

And as if that were not enough, this brilliance is underpinned by a soft, powdery, subtly floral-sweet cream and partially fused together. In this, the wood doesn't lose character at all. Here I guess the careful dosage of vanilla and iris.
A certain relationship to the powdery note in "Eight & Bob - The Original" I can not deny. I had also very much liked there.

Here, supposed opposites make great theater. Even if the cool wood is dominant in relation to the creamy-blue-warm note, a surprisingly successful contrast was still created here. And I find the color gradient of the bottle reflects this also skillfully! Even if there are no major changes in the fragrance itself, the continuous balance between the actors is admirable.
1 Comment
ErhanSaceros 3 years ago 29 15
8
Bottle
5
Sillage
5
Longevity
5
Scent
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Hahahaha
Can you laugh sarcastically? Yes? No? In any case, I could not think of a better title for this fragrance.
It had to be again a comment, especially after I briefly skimmed the previous ones. Since one is screwed brazenly by Dior and that is still bought off.

1. This fragrance could be interpreted as a summary of 2020. It's just so frustrating that Dior is dragging its own Homme range through the mud with such a random scent.

2. Of course, this fresh scent is immediately hyped up by the usual "masculine fresh scent lovers", even though they already have at least 3 similar scents, maybe even identical ones in their collection. But no matter. The main thing is fresh, masculine and you feel horny. And it is yes Dior on it.

3. Thanks to pink pepper and synthetic-aquatic-amber woods, this fragrance should have been called "Sauvage 2020 EdT" rather. In addition, certain aspects of Bleu de Chanel and Versace pour Homme are not to be denied. Here are also still pungent-sour notes of patch and vetiver.

4. A fragrance that truly does not let a perfume lover expand the horizon. He is at most a solid fragrance. Craft and Dufttechnisch the fragrance is unfortunately only ordinary and qualitatively rather on a low level.

5. Sets a sign and buys this fragrance only if he also really loves. Or buys the other, even better alternatives. We as consumers have to show so slowly that it does not go on with this 0815 stuff. Especially not from a more premium range. Otherwise, then comes Dior Homme 2024 out and that will then smell like Invictus.

6. Dior also wants to tell you: "Follow every trend! We take away the iris and adapt the fragrance for the masses, so that as many as possible smell the same. What is individualism anyway? But this time we don't have to try nearly as hard as we did with Sauvage. Back then, we launched something innovative and were copied several times by other brands. Now we're just knocking out the scent in a slightly different form because we also felt the need for a slightly different copy. Muhaha."

7. Sorry, I'm not sorry. Good fricking job Dior.
15 Comments
ErhanSaceros 3 years ago 11
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
6.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
An alternative, but no substitute
It shouldn't be a comment, but I have to let out a little frustration again.
The, unfortunately discontinued, Cologne version had convinced me more and more with the time. Not because it was a complex masterpiece or one of the most creative fragrances. But rather because of its encouraging, cheerful, lively and summery way. This was due to the grapefruit and almond notes. While these notes complemented each other and added more weight, the light musk note was also added (probably mainly as a fixative) to add more weight, inclusion and longevity overall. As a result, the grapefruit aromas could be perceived until the end.

I mostly love fragrances that have a stable, rich, high-dose base. But it is not always easy as a perfumer to create an intense base without losing the top and heart notes or neglecting the desired effect thanks to a present base. Of course, it always depends on whether and which part of the fragrance pyramid the perfumers (have to) set as a focus.

Now Cologne is gone and Cool is here. I don't know who can detect the citrus notes in that scent. But respect that. I only smell the mint, which seems to me partly authentic and green and fortunately doesn't remind me of toothpaste. At the same time, ambroxan can already be sensed in the background, until the almond note appears after about 15 minutes and harmonizes beautifully with the mint. I'm not so sure, but I think there's more almond in cologne. But no matter. :)
The almond does not come alone, but accompanied by the "aquatic notes". Don't worry, because these notes are subtle and at least they don't wake up a shower gel feeling in me.
Unfortunately after one hour the mint already decreases gradually but strongly, while the almond in the Sillage becomes more intense. On the skin, however, after three hours, the notes listed in the base come to the fore: rough, sour, sometimes woody and spicy, green and a tolerable synthetic. Luckily, Ambroxan is used in small doses, but the sour smell of vetiver seems to dominate. After almost five hours, the almond is no longer perceptible even in the silage. And with the base alone the scent ends as well. Wonderful, isn't it? All three phases are perceptible. Doesn't always happen. :)

The problem is that the base of the Cool is rather weak and transparent. No part of the base note gives the mint / almond weight. I wonder why musk was not used here either, to emphasize the almond and mint and keep it alive longer. It's almost like when an author hasn't thought up a good/logical ending.

It's a pity, because I would have wished for the Cool to be a good substitute for the cologne. I ordered it quasi blind and before that I only tested it on a test strip, because I really didn't expect that the main components would disappear "fast". But with this basis I can forget about it. So I witnessed once again how important the base score is, even if the focus is on the head or heart. The finale can screw up a complete piece.

By the way, I suspect that the scent has been discontinued. It is available on fewer and fewer sites and Flaconi, for example, has been offering the bottle in just 50ml size for months. That wouldn't surprise me. As acceptable, usable, refreshing and partly "handcrafted" well done the fragrance is, the more it is replaceable and avoidable.
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