EvaK

L'Heure Bleue is a perfume that brings a caleidoscope of images to my mind.. memories that aren't memories, but should have been. A journey in time.
It's the faint smell that rises from a forgotten scarf in the Orient Express. It is the whiff from an aristocratic lady passing by, wearing a fur coat and a hat. That kind of lady that makes men throw their coats in the gutter for her to step so she won't ruin her shoes.
It's the silk lining in an old, expensive crocodile purse. The enormous staircase in the grand hall from an old hollywood musical, and the diva slowly walking down, her dress floating on the steps. It is the view from the balcony once you escape the laughter and the shallowness of the party. It's a golden powdercase with enamel decoration and a facetted mirror in the lid. It is pearls, gold and diamonds. Gas lights in dusk. An abandoned bench covered in autumn leaves in an empty park just after rain.
It is the very atmosphere of Hotel Paris in Prague - or any other fabulous original Art Noveau-interior.
It is warm and sophisticated, bold and distant, yet intimate and romantic. Old-fashioned? Yes. It makes me feel I live in the wrong era. Not the perfume, but me. 'Old lady'? Well, I can't imagine a teen girl wearing it, but everything is possible. Just as I couldn't wear it with jeans, but some could probably pull that off too.
L'Heure Bleue is fabulous. It is divine. The ultimate perfume. This is what defines 'classic'.

To begin with I was convinced that Eden would put me off big time. I'm not too fond of Cacharel in general, and the description... citrus? Water floral? Green? Ew.
Surprise! I liked it, really liked it. I can't trust myself or my nose when I try samples as they for unknown reasons tend to behave differently than when I try from a bigger bottle. (Wonder why that is).
Anyway, as soon as I found it at a good price I bought a bottle, suspecting that I had probably been mistaken when I thought I liked it.
Not at all. I'm not fond of too much citrus, but Eden seems to open without that stinging feeling. Quickly it changes into the compressed green smell of warm plants and flowers in a greenhouse on a hot day.
Now this sounds suffocating. It isn't. It's a fresh warmth, if that makes sense. It's a 'wet' smell like how it bursts from plants and flowers after rain. Imagine that heating up in a greenhouse. Wow.
Basically a summer scent, but absolutely warm enough for winter. I don't find it sweet.
The only bad thing I have to say is that the bottle is hideous. They should have switched it with the beautiful box - but who cares anyway, as long as the juice is good!

Knowing fits its bottle! Heavy, massive, nothing fragile here!
This is a powerhouse monster, more than bold, fearless beyond imagination. It radiates power, boldness, there's nothing soft or mellow about it. It is the kind of perfume that makes people give way to you on the street - and not because it stinks. You have to nerve yourself to wear it if you're the slightest bit unsure of your own personality. If you're not tough enough, Knowing will wear you and eat your intestines for lunch. It is confident womanity that demands respect. It's just animalistic enough to represent womanity in all repects. I normally don't age-discriminate any perfume as it's all a matter of personality imo - but this one.. I really can't imagine a 15-yr-old pulling it off. Absolutely not. It is so mature, experienced and formidable, that I really can't see it on a teen. Not that I can imagine any teen wanting to wear it!

It starts out a bit sweet and quite boozy, with strong mimosa to prepare you to what comes next. Minutes later Knowing reveals her face: it's a VERY dark chypre. I get no fruit, but the laurel and iris stand out. It does soften on the drydown, but it's never tender, romantic, fragile or anything in that respect.

Iceberg The Fragrance is one of my most unusual perfumes. Almost overwhelming fruit opening, not sweet at all in spite of the pear. A little while later the coriander stands out, spicy and strong, together with pistachio - all softened by the flowers. Very very spicy, and even more when in rainy/damp weather.
The drydown is warm and with a rather masculine touch. The leather is very distinct to me at this point.
After yet a couple of hours, it changes again when I wear it!! Here comes the ice cream and vanilla that I don't detect much earlier on.
Very, very intersting scent, spellbinding. But not a casual one, not for everyone I'd say - at least not from how it acts on me.
It's a bold, self-confident scent, not girly/pink at all. It makes a statement of strength as in when you mean business, yet inviting, warm and sensual. Try before you buy, but please give it time! So much is going on here!
It's a chameleon on my skin, almost scary, but I will come back to it again and again. After 10 hours it lingers on very close to the skin.

I bought Cabochard EDT blind, very unsure of what to expect. Wow. It opens with a burst of leather that almost knocked me out. So so strong, not like a leather bag or a pair of new shoes, but a real leather workshop. More masculine that anything I've ever had.So different, and so "huge".
The leather note goes on all the way, even all through the drydown. Actually the drydown seems to develop too constantly during the more than 8 hours it lasts on me. Impressive longevity! Good sillage as well.
This is not for any mood. I find no sweetness, only little tenderness when it dries down.
I know it's from a later decade, but it gives me associations of 1930'ies nightclubs, gamblers and bootleggers, big cigars and hidden guns - arrogant mafia mistresses with a dark aura of mystery and class. Or a film noir based on a Raymond Chandler novel.
A very adult perfume, not old, but with a sense of experience and strength.
Cabochard is magnificent. Not to be worn with airy, romantic outfits imo.
Love it.