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Art to analyze...
... is not always easy. Analysing a painting... why...? when it's nice. Analyzing a symphony... why...? when it goes through the ear into the heart. A perfume to cut into its 25 notes... why... when it just makes you dream?
A dream of a walk over moss and wood, over a meadow of lily of the valley and lavender, past lemon trees. In your luggage: spices from the Orient. This fragrance is a potpourri of natural ingredients, refined with some synthetic... with a wonderful result. How did Mr. Dove once say so beautifully? The cotton shirt becomes really comfortable only by 2% elastane content.
I like the comparison, because this perfume seems wonderfully balanced to me... sometimes snappy, sometimes smooth... sometimes spicy and pungent, sometimes flowery and gentle. I do not perceive the Cashmeran, but it certainly fulfils its purpose as a synthetic booster. Like the spandex.
Hardly any other perfume brand polarises as much as Roja. Many expect too much in terms of prices. Many don't want to afford these perfumes either. But art remains art, and for that I gladly pay the artist.
The perfumes (Extraits) were the expensive beginning, but the somewhat lighter EdPs from this house are affordable. Maybe that's why the EdPs are doing better here. Prejudices against luxury prices that are too high have an influence. The golden lid is enough for me, I don't need the black one.
Sauvage, Eau Sauvage, Moustache... many comparisons were made here with real Fougeres, with aromatic Fougeres and other Fougeres. Is classic still classic if it is reproduced in modern times?
I don't care what this is... because I know one thing: it's perfume that still smells like perfume. It's true art. That's what the feeling says, not the analysis.
A dream of a walk over moss and wood, over a meadow of lily of the valley and lavender, past lemon trees. In your luggage: spices from the Orient. This fragrance is a potpourri of natural ingredients, refined with some synthetic... with a wonderful result. How did Mr. Dove once say so beautifully? The cotton shirt becomes really comfortable only by 2% elastane content.
I like the comparison, because this perfume seems wonderfully balanced to me... sometimes snappy, sometimes smooth... sometimes spicy and pungent, sometimes flowery and gentle. I do not perceive the Cashmeran, but it certainly fulfils its purpose as a synthetic booster. Like the spandex.
Hardly any other perfume brand polarises as much as Roja. Many expect too much in terms of prices. Many don't want to afford these perfumes either. But art remains art, and for that I gladly pay the artist.
The perfumes (Extraits) were the expensive beginning, but the somewhat lighter EdPs from this house are affordable. Maybe that's why the EdPs are doing better here. Prejudices against luxury prices that are too high have an influence. The golden lid is enough for me, I don't need the black one.
Sauvage, Eau Sauvage, Moustache... many comparisons were made here with real Fougeres, with aromatic Fougeres and other Fougeres. Is classic still classic if it is reproduced in modern times?
I don't care what this is... because I know one thing: it's perfume that still smells like perfume. It's true art. That's what the feeling says, not the analysis.
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How the dragonfly came to the moon
A light-hearted mix of citrus fruits, neroli and vetiver... this is Moon Leather. But that was also Moon Fever from the same house. What distinguishes Moon Leather, and whether it is worth paying twice as much for him as for his little brother, I would like to investigate.
The series "Escales Extraordinaires" is the gold line of the house. Extremely expensive, extremely chic. Golden flacons in real leather cases... wow. But the juice? Actually only mashups of older fragrances with either an additional note or just a new fragrance balance. Moon Leather has exactly the same notes as Moon Fever. Only the leather is more heavily dosed. Memo calls this an "enveloping leather chord".
Moon Fever from 2009 is a fragrance that is relatively unpopular. Maybe because the name is stupid. Maybe because the story is stupid... Animals populate the moon and long for the stars... Well, yeah. For me, Moon Fever is a solid fragrance that always works. A perfumer asked: "Why so badly rated? Ask the man in the moon." :-)
But this is about Moon Leather now. The fragrance was released in 2014 and looks to me like a more mature, balanced version of Moon Fever. The leather note, which many at Moon Fever were looking for with a magnifying glass, can finally be heard here. While the neroli oil in Moon Fever was almost too fresh, almost pungent soapy, it is steamed here by velvety soft suede. Madame Massenet did a good job here, I think.
The leather is not creaky-strength, but pure and velvety. This leather fragrance could also please non-leather fans. Similar to Cuirs Beluga (only related to the leather note - the scents are fundamentally different in themselves). Vetiver and tonka bean make the leather here earthy and sweet.... the base is warm creamy but not overwhelming. Even during sports I still found the scent pleasant.
Does the story make sense now? No comment. Is the scent great? Yes. And he's better than his cheaper fellow. If you liked Moon Fever and are looking for an upgrade, you've come to the right place. But maybe those who found Moon Fever too arbitrary. I am grateful that thanks to a Parfuma and Essenca Nobile I was finally able to compare samples of both fragrances. Now I'm starting to save up for Moon Leather. Moon price. Moon quality. Moon leather.
Oh, what happened to the dragonfly again? Why do you see these next to crescents on the bottle? About 700 of the more than 5000 dragonfly species live in Africa. Since Moon Fever used to be called Moon Safari, the dragonflies could stand for the journey to the moon, because a safari is literally a journey. Dragonflies reach 50 km/h top speed - with a wingspan of 10 cm. In relative terms twice as fast as an F-15 Hornet. If an animal could make it to the moon, then the dragonfly ;)
The series "Escales Extraordinaires" is the gold line of the house. Extremely expensive, extremely chic. Golden flacons in real leather cases... wow. But the juice? Actually only mashups of older fragrances with either an additional note or just a new fragrance balance. Moon Leather has exactly the same notes as Moon Fever. Only the leather is more heavily dosed. Memo calls this an "enveloping leather chord".
Moon Fever from 2009 is a fragrance that is relatively unpopular. Maybe because the name is stupid. Maybe because the story is stupid... Animals populate the moon and long for the stars... Well, yeah. For me, Moon Fever is a solid fragrance that always works. A perfumer asked: "Why so badly rated? Ask the man in the moon." :-)
But this is about Moon Leather now. The fragrance was released in 2014 and looks to me like a more mature, balanced version of Moon Fever. The leather note, which many at Moon Fever were looking for with a magnifying glass, can finally be heard here. While the neroli oil in Moon Fever was almost too fresh, almost pungent soapy, it is steamed here by velvety soft suede. Madame Massenet did a good job here, I think.
The leather is not creaky-strength, but pure and velvety. This leather fragrance could also please non-leather fans. Similar to Cuirs Beluga (only related to the leather note - the scents are fundamentally different in themselves). Vetiver and tonka bean make the leather here earthy and sweet.... the base is warm creamy but not overwhelming. Even during sports I still found the scent pleasant.
Does the story make sense now? No comment. Is the scent great? Yes. And he's better than his cheaper fellow. If you liked Moon Fever and are looking for an upgrade, you've come to the right place. But maybe those who found Moon Fever too arbitrary. I am grateful that thanks to a Parfuma and Essenca Nobile I was finally able to compare samples of both fragrances. Now I'm starting to save up for Moon Leather. Moon price. Moon quality. Moon leather.
Oh, what happened to the dragonfly again? Why do you see these next to crescents on the bottle? About 700 of the more than 5000 dragonfly species live in Africa. Since Moon Fever used to be called Moon Safari, the dragonflies could stand for the journey to the moon, because a safari is literally a journey. Dragonflies reach 50 km/h top speed - with a wingspan of 10 cm. In relative terms twice as fast as an F-15 Hornet. If an animal could make it to the moon, then the dragonfly ;)
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The gentle nature of a killer...
... describes this fragrance from House of Matriarch's limited "Vintage 2015" collection. The killer whale, a seal-eating predator of the oceans, does not really live up to its name with this fragrance. But is he really a killer just because whalers call him that? As the largest species of dolphins, it is very socially oriented, the mothers look after their children touchingly, and with their intelligence trained specimens perform tricks in dolphinariums. Almost friendly and gentle, this mammal seems to be...
This gentleness is also embodied in "Orca", a fragrance that recalls the depth and clarity of the oceans... Ambergris (an excretion of whales) gives the fragrance a balsamic animality. Choya Nakh, a distillate obtained from roasted mussel shells, adds smoky oceanic notes. The perfume smells like the ocean as you would imagine it if all the salt had evaporated in one fell swoop....
Honey gives the fragrance a subliminal sweetness. The Clementine probably reinforces it - but it is not perceptible to me. The fragrance is anything but citric or fruity. Resins enhance the smoky amber aroma of Choya Nakh. The oil of the Indian Nard finally complements a warm earthy aroma. As a medicinal plant from the Himalayas, this baldrian-like plant is said to have a calming effect.
According to the website, the fragrance is 100% natural, and I believe that after intensive testing - I haven't had such a smooth fragrance on my skin for a long time, which even releases some etheric when warm.
Orca is unique to me. There's no flowers in here, no woods. No oud that could sting, no jasmine that could be annoying... everything that's in here... is the pure deep ocean.
This gentleness is also embodied in "Orca", a fragrance that recalls the depth and clarity of the oceans... Ambergris (an excretion of whales) gives the fragrance a balsamic animality. Choya Nakh, a distillate obtained from roasted mussel shells, adds smoky oceanic notes. The perfume smells like the ocean as you would imagine it if all the salt had evaporated in one fell swoop....
Honey gives the fragrance a subliminal sweetness. The Clementine probably reinforces it - but it is not perceptible to me. The fragrance is anything but citric or fruity. Resins enhance the smoky amber aroma of Choya Nakh. The oil of the Indian Nard finally complements a warm earthy aroma. As a medicinal plant from the Himalayas, this baldrian-like plant is said to have a calming effect.
According to the website, the fragrance is 100% natural, and I believe that after intensive testing - I haven't had such a smooth fragrance on my skin for a long time, which even releases some etheric when warm.
Orca is unique to me. There's no flowers in here, no woods. No oud that could sting, no jasmine that could be annoying... everything that's in here... is the pure deep ocean.
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A citrus scent of superlatives...
this water of Hadrian is indeed. But when is a fragrance really special?
If he smells good... check... when he's a popular classic... check. But this perfume actually sets a record: According to celebrityfragrances.com, this fragrance is worn by more Holliwood stars than any other. Proud 21 nominations can be found there, among them some great legends of the American film.
It is surpassed only by Chanel No. 5 with 30 mentions - but this fragrance is a good 60 years older and therefore out of competition. The nice Aventus only gets one mention :)
Now let's get to the actual fragrance: released in 1981 (as EdT), it was one of Annick Goutal's first perfumes and can be described as the flagship of this house. The EdP we're talking about here came a little later (1988) and lasts a little longer than the EdT. The higher scent concentration is the reason. This makes it smell even more lemony and fresh than the EdT. The durability unfortunately remains below average. But at the beginning you get a strong freshness kick.
This kick comes from the lemonatzitrone (cedrat) which smells even more citric than lemons. Some people think this scent is like a toilet stone or citrus cleaner, and I have to admit, sometimes I find it a bit too stinging.
Nevertheless a great Mediterranean scent, reminiscent of the garden of Villa Adriana, where once Emperor Hadrian last resided.
Another superlative is the number of flacon variants. After the renaming from Annick Goutal to Goutal, the flacons were redesigned. There is also a Homme variant (square) and a Femme variant (oval) with identical contents. I haven't seen anything like this in any other perfume yet.
Annick Goutal, who died in 1999, left behind Eau d'Hadrien, a fragrance of superlatives for posterity that is indeed beyond comparison with lavatories.
Your Frankfurt Fragrance Lover
If he smells good... check... when he's a popular classic... check. But this perfume actually sets a record: According to celebrityfragrances.com, this fragrance is worn by more Holliwood stars than any other. Proud 21 nominations can be found there, among them some great legends of the American film.
It is surpassed only by Chanel No. 5 with 30 mentions - but this fragrance is a good 60 years older and therefore out of competition. The nice Aventus only gets one mention :)
Now let's get to the actual fragrance: released in 1981 (as EdT), it was one of Annick Goutal's first perfumes and can be described as the flagship of this house. The EdP we're talking about here came a little later (1988) and lasts a little longer than the EdT. The higher scent concentration is the reason. This makes it smell even more lemony and fresh than the EdT. The durability unfortunately remains below average. But at the beginning you get a strong freshness kick.
This kick comes from the lemonatzitrone (cedrat) which smells even more citric than lemons. Some people think this scent is like a toilet stone or citrus cleaner, and I have to admit, sometimes I find it a bit too stinging.
Nevertheless a great Mediterranean scent, reminiscent of the garden of Villa Adriana, where once Emperor Hadrian last resided.
Another superlative is the number of flacon variants. After the renaming from Annick Goutal to Goutal, the flacons were redesigned. There is also a Homme variant (square) and a Femme variant (oval) with identical contents. I haven't seen anything like this in any other perfume yet.
Annick Goutal, who died in 1999, left behind Eau d'Hadrien, a fragrance of superlatives for posterity that is indeed beyond comparison with lavatories.
Your Frankfurt Fragrance Lover
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Holidays in the Maldives...
... is not affordable for me right now. So far it had only been enough for Mallorca. Should it ever work out with the Maldives, of course a luxury summer scent has to be included, which then replaces my Aqua, the Gio and my Sun Men. But let's start over...
The scents of Tom Ford are not bad, according to widespread opinion, but also not cheap. From a citric summer scent, which is applied due to a relative volatility at least 2 times, better 3 times a day, one expects then naturally a high quality - if one lets evaporate already one millilitre after the other in the sun. Mandarino di Amalfi lives up to this claim.
The "mandarin", which is actually grapefruit, bergamot and lemon according to the pyramid, is citrus-fresh, so that one immediately thinks of clear sea water, palms and cocktails. But I would like to illuminate another main theme of this fragrance: Soap! Musk and orange blossom give you the feeling of not only wearing a clean fragrance, but a hygienically pure fragrance. And this note sets the perfume apart for me from the citrus competition. Showers, mandarin soap and off to the sun!
Unfortunately I can't filter out the other notes, but I'm sure that every essence contributes its part to the overall impression. Durability and Sillage are average. Unfortunately I always found the sharp-edged bottles with plastic lids from Ford a bit ugly.
The only thing that stands in the way of an even better assessment: In the first 10 minutes the described soap is still a little too stinging. As soon as this wax-like opening, which is reminiscent of soap in its original form, a kind of household cleaner, is put in place, it gets better. So, Malle, hasta luego!
The scents of Tom Ford are not bad, according to widespread opinion, but also not cheap. From a citric summer scent, which is applied due to a relative volatility at least 2 times, better 3 times a day, one expects then naturally a high quality - if one lets evaporate already one millilitre after the other in the sun. Mandarino di Amalfi lives up to this claim.
The "mandarin", which is actually grapefruit, bergamot and lemon according to the pyramid, is citrus-fresh, so that one immediately thinks of clear sea water, palms and cocktails. But I would like to illuminate another main theme of this fragrance: Soap! Musk and orange blossom give you the feeling of not only wearing a clean fragrance, but a hygienically pure fragrance. And this note sets the perfume apart for me from the citrus competition. Showers, mandarin soap and off to the sun!
Unfortunately I can't filter out the other notes, but I'm sure that every essence contributes its part to the overall impression. Durability and Sillage are average. Unfortunately I always found the sharp-edged bottles with plastic lids from Ford a bit ugly.
The only thing that stands in the way of an even better assessment: In the first 10 minutes the described soap is still a little too stinging. As soon as this wax-like opening, which is reminiscent of soap in its original form, a kind of household cleaner, is put in place, it gets better. So, Malle, hasta luego!
