FlannelmanFlannelman's Perfume Reviews

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Flannelman 10 years ago 7
8
Scent

A sensual, dark, masculine rose fragrance
A sensual, dark, masculine rose fragrance.

The opening is quite sharp, fougère-like and dominated by citrus, lavender and a touch of vodka. I found it a bit agressive at first but it has definitely grown on me.

Lots of flower notes in the heart but rose is definitely the star here. This is not a shy white rose — not by a long shot! It's a dark, mysterious thorny rose bush; perhaps growing alongside the wall of an old manor house. But it's not just dark: Ungaro III is also classy, seductive, lush, and effortlessly sophisticated. It's on a mission to attract people and is very succesful at it.

The rose is still noticeable in the drydown, which is warm and balsamic, with a little sweetness thrown in.

The sillage is extremely good for the first few hours; longevity is average, 4 hours on me. The bottle is very nice, and matches the spirit of the fragrance.

Flannelman 10 years ago 4

An unusual fragrance with a somewhat misleading name
A very warm, interesting, unusual fragrance with a somewhat misleading name.

There is pepper, of course. White pepper. But it's definitely not "piquant", and for most of the (very short) longevity of the scent, it seems to only play a supporting role. The pepper is most noticeable in the very early top notes (together with an elusive note that reminds me of thyme, but not quite) and at this stage it really is very good indeed.

It is however quickly taken over by a soft, silky, milk and honey accord. The honey is just right: light and not too sweet. The milk seems to be mixed with spices, and at some times I was reminded of Chai.

The spices and pepper (when they emerge, from time to time) play hide and seek with the milk and honey and I find this to be very pleasantly orchestrated.

If only Poivre Piquant had a bit more longevity and sillage! It's gone way too quickly to be fully appreciated; that's a shame because it will stop many (including myself) from getting a full bottle.

Not a fragrance to wear when you want to be noticed, but great to relax at home on a freezing winter day...

Flannelman 10 years ago 4

Green, leafy, fresh, uplifting
A delightful, fresh, underrated green scent! Don't let the "aqua" in its name fool you, this is definitely not a marine or watery fragrance. It is however very tonic and uplifting.

During the first seconds, a very classic citrus note is present but the star here is a burst of bitter but delicious orange. A great way to start the day!

Aquatonic then turns into a medium sweet, but also spicy green scent with grass, vetiver and fern notes being the most obvious. There is at times a very faint foody aspect to the fragrance, perhaps because of the rhubarb note. Some have noted vegetables notes such as green pepper and celery, and although I can understand the (subconscious?) reasoning behind this, I can't say I have ever experienced it when I used to wear Aquatonic on a regular basis. Which is just as well (-sigh of relief-): nobody wants to smell like a market stall. And you won't, trust me...

The drydown is still green (vétiver) and woody (rosewood mostly, I find). But when it kicks off, the far end of Aquatonic's longevity has already been reached.

So, to me, Aquatonic is green, leafy and fresh all the way during the middle notes with a round and bright aspect, à la Guerlain Vétiver. There are also definite similarities with Mugler Cologne in the way the fragrance is built and orchestrated. And there are worst things to be compared to than these two fragrances...

If you haven't tried Miracle Aquatonic yet, I recommend it. But please, wait for summer: that's when it will shine...

Flannelman 10 years ago 3

Rich but discretely so...
L'Homme Sage opens in a surprising fashion with a very intense, rich, warm powdery blast of saffron and, to a lesser extent, licorice. Quite a shock — unexpected but enjoyable! Citrus and milder fruit notes take the second role in the top notes.

After a couple of exhuberant minutes, the fragrance's warmth continues to develop. But it's definitely a different kind of warmth: less fiery/spicy, more subdued and enveloping. Smoky incense notes are the first to join in and gradually start to dominate the saffron, of which only a discrete spicy trail remains. The progression then continues at a slower but definite pace, and L'Homme Sage starts to glow with warm amber and patchouli, leading us to a discrete but gorgeous woody-ambery drydown. An unusual, compelling, rich, warm scent.

The Sage, it is said, is quiet, serene, and does not boast of his riches. And so is this fragrance. Wear it when in search of peace and quietness. It will warm your spirits and stay close to your skin.
1 Reply

Flannelman 10 years ago 4
8
Scent

Pretty, elegant, very wearable incense and cedar
This is a pretty, elegant, very wearable incense and cedar fragrance with a delicate hint of fruitiness. It's soft, round and ethereal.

It is of course tempting to make a comparison with another incense and cedar fragrance: Christian Lacroix's Tumulte. They are undoubtedly in the same family, but there are important differences. Tumulte, for instance, is much, much dryer and has a definite harshness in the top notes. Kyoto on the other hand opens very smoothly and even with a hint of sweetness. There is also a difference on the skin: Kyoto seems to be warming it, while Tumulte does not. On the whole I would say that Tumulte is more rugged and masculine, Kyoto more elegant and peaceful.

If you like incense, try Kyoto. The olfactory trip it will take you on is well worth it...

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