Flannelman

Eau de Rochas Pour Homme is an (apparently) simple yet well crafted citrus scent. But it's not just that...

It opens with sharp, sunny top notes of lime, bergamot and lemon verbena followed by a more subtle aromatic note of basil: it's obvious from the start that this is a fragrance for glorious spring or summer days. Yes, it's heavy on the citrus. But it is, I think, one of the better designer citrus fragrances around; and as we all know, citrus fragrances abound.

The heart in Eau de Rochas Pour Homme is a beautiful, refined blend of flowers — white for the most part. This, I find, gives the fragrance lightness and elegance. In Geoffrey Beene's Bowling Green, a strong pine needle note reinforces the citrus right from the top. Here, instead, it is much more subdued but nonetheless lifts up the floral accord in the heart, makes it more interesting and gives it depth. Nice touch.

Transitions are well marked in this fragrance but longevity is average, and we soon reach a warm woody (and, to some extent, resinous) drydown; vétiver and cedar play the main role here, assisted by fainter notes of oakmoss. I can't say that I can detect any musk, eventhough it is supposed to be there. But I don't think it's actually needed.

To summarise: Eau de Rochas Pour Homme is a classy, fresh, energetic, refined and well balanced fragrance...

Eau de Givenchy is a fresh, light and uplifting floral fragrance.

Its opening is bright and sunny with bergamot, sharp citrus and grapefruit. There is also an added faint touch a mint. Other fruit notes are supposed to be present but I can't say that I get them.

The heart is a bouquet of flower notes: a very natural lily-of-the-valley is joined by jasmine, honeysuckle and rose. The lightness of this fragrance makes it ideal for warm, sunny Spring days.

Longevity is average, but not bad at all for a light floral. The base is woody (sandalwood and cedar) with light touches of musk and moss which add a bit of depth to the drydown.

To my dismay, I often find Serge Lutens' fragrances too sweet for my taste and always seem to approach them with a sense of resignation, concerned as I am that I will not be able to enjoy what I am about to sample.

I do love the smell of vanilla; and especially the wonderful, fragrant aroma of fresh vanilla pods. The idea of a wood and vanilla fragrance is appealing to me, and I thought that perhaps Un Bois Vanille could be something to enjoy, my worries about sweetness put aside. And I did, on the whole, with some reservations.

I should say first, on the negative side, that to my nose there isn't that much wood in Un Bois Vanille. I had the same "where's the wood?" interrogation with SL Cèdre some time ago.

The opening here is an intense blast of coconut and vanilla. Definitely gourmand territory! The fragrance immediately feels rich, and you know it's going to last. I am glad to say that the vanilla does feel very natural and mouth-watering.

The warmth of Un Bois Vanille continues to develop quietly — there isn't that much evolution, but rather the fragrance feels like it has to be enjoyed as a whole. The coconut note subsides and is replaced by something caramel-y. Vanilla fudge or toffee, something like that. Richness and sweetness, once again. Luckily this does not feel as sirupy as, for instance, Chypre Rouge.

At this point I would really have loved the woods to kick in, but sadly they did not. There is a slight licorice note that permeates from time to time but on the whole the fragrance remains a thick, intense coconut/vanilla/caramel affair.

To summarize, this is a pretty good vanilla that you might enjoy (especially during cold days) if you like very strong gourmand fragrances and don't mind the ever-present sweetness. Projection and longevity are both excellent.

Absolutely stunning right from the start! The rum, bitter orange and black cumin let you know immediately you're in for a treat. It's boozy, spicy, warm and a little sweet but just enough so... I'm often cautious about cumin in fragrances, as it can sometimes feel stinky to my nose, but no such thing here. It's just right. Saffron and, I think, something peppery soon joins in and at that point there was no going back: I was hooked.

The rum then subsides and the saffron shines; the middles notes remain spicy, with the addition of a gorgeous light smokiness. There is also something fruity, rich and liquorous but always balanced.

With time, gorgeous, warm amber develops, joined by sandalwood and, at least on my skin, a very discrete leather note.

Beautiful, comforting, warm, spicy but also mellow and velvety, Idole is perfect for cold weather. It's also unisex without a doubt. Sillage and longevity are good. Highly recommended.

P.S. This review is for the EDT.

Greenergy is a soft, easy to wear green and fruity chypre. It opens brightly with lemon but also sweetly with notes of orange and mandarin to which a faint (and brief) aromatic note of basil is added. The mint and cardamom could be more pronounced here, I think, to counter-balance the sweetness.

A light vetiver then appears, mixed with an array of floral notes, in the same vein as what is done in Insensé. I also get melon every time, although I have never seen it listed in the notes. The two keywords here are, again, soft and sweet.

Greenergy stays pretty much linear after that. While it's pleasant, to my nose its name was not aptly chosen. From "Greenergy" I was expecting an explosion of sharp green notes. And while it is green — because of the vetiver and a light moss-like note that develops in the final stages — it's also very flowery and has a sweet, soft, fruity side that I do not find "energetic".

All in all, this is not what I expected but nevertheless an inoffensive light fragrance for spring and summer. Longevity and sillage are on the weak side.