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Enchanting!
Maison Francis Kurkjian: FEMININ PLURIEL
This is just downright lovely on me! I turned my head slightly just after spritzing because the scent wafting from my wrists was so alluring. A decidedly rare, unusually clean and delicate floral chypre as it reads on my skin. Every single note sings out distinct and pure in this composition, every single note takes a wonderfully positive turn on my skin, and yet, every note is masterfully woven together in a seamless silken blend that is altogether more than the sum of its parts, and an ultra-feminine joy to experience for me.
Clean and clear the orange blossom, non-indolic jasmine, and startlingly intense, fresh-green un-wax-like lily of the valley florals herald the joyous opening here with no overdone soap or cleaning products evident. A cool and soil damp regal Iris emerges full force with a delightful shower of non-candied violet petals, swirled through with a crisply moist, just picked Rose de Grasse; the whole composition being impeccably balanced, and absent the overdone carroty powder bomb side effect.
The patchouli support here is immaculately vegetal and restrained, adding depth with no tinge of musty-dusty offensive decompositional odor. The vetiver is wonderfully blended so as to bolster things with a hint of the most delicate citric-spicy-woodiness, and cool earthy support. The balance between the vetiver and the patchouli is just flawless in enhancing the refined sensuality of the whole without overwhelming it.
The entire scent make me think of strolling through an enchanted fairy forest at dusk with all sorts of little magical creatures glimmering in the shadow.
I find that Maison Francis Kurkjian is growing to be my favorite house. So far, I absolutely love everything he has done. Notes that I ordinarily dislike in other perfumes, I find to be clearly present, and yet not only completely inoffensive, but marvelously realized by an astonishingly skillful blending of exceptionally high quality basic ingredients.
I’m definitely getting a full bottle of this one, and the scented cream as well.
This is just downright lovely on me! I turned my head slightly just after spritzing because the scent wafting from my wrists was so alluring. A decidedly rare, unusually clean and delicate floral chypre as it reads on my skin. Every single note sings out distinct and pure in this composition, every single note takes a wonderfully positive turn on my skin, and yet, every note is masterfully woven together in a seamless silken blend that is altogether more than the sum of its parts, and an ultra-feminine joy to experience for me.
Clean and clear the orange blossom, non-indolic jasmine, and startlingly intense, fresh-green un-wax-like lily of the valley florals herald the joyous opening here with no overdone soap or cleaning products evident. A cool and soil damp regal Iris emerges full force with a delightful shower of non-candied violet petals, swirled through with a crisply moist, just picked Rose de Grasse; the whole composition being impeccably balanced, and absent the overdone carroty powder bomb side effect.
The patchouli support here is immaculately vegetal and restrained, adding depth with no tinge of musty-dusty offensive decompositional odor. The vetiver is wonderfully blended so as to bolster things with a hint of the most delicate citric-spicy-woodiness, and cool earthy support. The balance between the vetiver and the patchouli is just flawless in enhancing the refined sensuality of the whole without overwhelming it.
The entire scent make me think of strolling through an enchanted fairy forest at dusk with all sorts of little magical creatures glimmering in the shadow.
I find that Maison Francis Kurkjian is growing to be my favorite house. So far, I absolutely love everything he has done. Notes that I ordinarily dislike in other perfumes, I find to be clearly present, and yet not only completely inoffensive, but marvelously realized by an astonishingly skillful blending of exceptionally high quality basic ingredients.
I’m definitely getting a full bottle of this one, and the scented cream as well.
FloraMilena 8 years ago
Fruit Syrup
Vero Profumo
RUBJ (Voile d’Extrait)
• This review applies only to the Rubj Voile d’Extrait, NOT the Extrait de Parfum or the EDP.
Opens with a blast of intensely bitter orange woody bergamot that softens after a bit into a subdued mandarin. There is no blast of cumin or basil in this composition. However, on my skin the voile d’extrait actually reads as less fresh and much more syrupy sweet than the parfum. The fruit softens the bergamot with an overly sweet sugary approach to citrics as is commonly found in your generic fruity floral top-note set. Citrics here lack the sour offensiveness that sometimes used to offset the sugar, but ultimately this emerges as a very blasé and rather inelegant opening.
The Neroli makes a later appearance which may be why the top notes are so mundane. The central core develops with mix of non-indolic white florals, and the Neroli tagging along, swirling in and out of a stronger orange flower absolute note, but a weaker tuberose/jasmine note than that which exists in the EDP version. There is no offensive cumin here to create skank, but the overdone sweetness lingers, casting a rather candied cherry cough syrup type cloying feel to the mix, making it ultimately less freshly juicy and sensuous on my skin than the Parfum Extrait.
The basenotes are very frail and anemic here, even for me. The cedar/oakmoss/musk combo are clean, and yet they are overwhelmed by the core, and the overly robust, but ultimately humdrum topnotes. The base unfortunately contributes no noticeable profundity, shadow, or fascination in general support.
The Voile d’Extrait version lacks both the height and the depth of the Parfum Extrait, and communicates a rather flat generality of fruity floral on me. It is not an ugly scent. I wish to be clear, this is not an offensive scent in any way. It is actually pretty in a very mundane manner. I simply find it utterly boring as it reads on my skin. I have not smelled it on anyone else’s skin, so my own personal testing is all I can tell you about it. It may be beautiful on your skin.
RUBJ (Voile d’Extrait)
• This review applies only to the Rubj Voile d’Extrait, NOT the Extrait de Parfum or the EDP.
Opens with a blast of intensely bitter orange woody bergamot that softens after a bit into a subdued mandarin. There is no blast of cumin or basil in this composition. However, on my skin the voile d’extrait actually reads as less fresh and much more syrupy sweet than the parfum. The fruit softens the bergamot with an overly sweet sugary approach to citrics as is commonly found in your generic fruity floral top-note set. Citrics here lack the sour offensiveness that sometimes used to offset the sugar, but ultimately this emerges as a very blasé and rather inelegant opening.
The Neroli makes a later appearance which may be why the top notes are so mundane. The central core develops with mix of non-indolic white florals, and the Neroli tagging along, swirling in and out of a stronger orange flower absolute note, but a weaker tuberose/jasmine note than that which exists in the EDP version. There is no offensive cumin here to create skank, but the overdone sweetness lingers, casting a rather candied cherry cough syrup type cloying feel to the mix, making it ultimately less freshly juicy and sensuous on my skin than the Parfum Extrait.
The basenotes are very frail and anemic here, even for me. The cedar/oakmoss/musk combo are clean, and yet they are overwhelmed by the core, and the overly robust, but ultimately humdrum topnotes. The base unfortunately contributes no noticeable profundity, shadow, or fascination in general support.
The Voile d’Extrait version lacks both the height and the depth of the Parfum Extrait, and communicates a rather flat generality of fruity floral on me. It is not an ugly scent. I wish to be clear, this is not an offensive scent in any way. It is actually pretty in a very mundane manner. I simply find it utterly boring as it reads on my skin. I have not smelled it on anyone else’s skin, so my own personal testing is all I can tell you about it. It may be beautiful on your skin.
Of Tacos & Tuberose
Vero Profumo
RUBJ (Eau de Parfum)
• This review applies only to the Rubj Eau de Parfum, NOT the voile d’extrait or the extrait de parfum.
Oh dear god the horror. Opens with an explosive blast of cumin! No…. not herby sedate basil, but skanky, sweaty, kitchen spice for use in hot/spicy cuisine raw ground cumin! I’m in my kitchen frying up a batch of ground beef for authentic Mexican Chili and just added a walloping dose of cumin! That’s just how strong it is! My eyes opened wide at first sniff and then closed as I jerked my head back and away to escape further inhalation. I was astounded. I was expecting something fruity, something floral, maybe just a little spicy at least for an opening. I was not expecting one of the strongest kitchen cooking spices outside garlic to assault my nose. Yes there is a tad of spaghetti sauce herby fresh basil in there too, but the freakish magnitude of the cumin……dear god why?
I am not a bigot. I love Mexican food. It’s one of my favorite cuisines. I love to taste and eat cumin as a food spice, but not in my perfume. I admit, I am negatively sensitive to skank. I detest it. My chemistry tends to magnify base notes and skank as well. I cannot handle the overabundance of cumin in this composition, at least, not on my skin.
I can clearly detect a light Neroli-laced citric and a slightly overripe fleshy passionfruit behind the wall of cumin. Later on, a very beautiful and non-indolic orange blossom/tuberose mélange swirls up from behind that ever present wall of cumin. A very understated foundation of clean, light mossy woods and white musk finish this off…..behind the ever present wall of cumin.
Seriously, the cumin NEVER died on me all through the 4 hour wear. If you want to smell like homemade tacos and little bouquet of white flowers, you might like this, because that is how it plays out on my skin.
RUBJ (Eau de Parfum)
• This review applies only to the Rubj Eau de Parfum, NOT the voile d’extrait or the extrait de parfum.
Oh dear god the horror. Opens with an explosive blast of cumin! No…. not herby sedate basil, but skanky, sweaty, kitchen spice for use in hot/spicy cuisine raw ground cumin! I’m in my kitchen frying up a batch of ground beef for authentic Mexican Chili and just added a walloping dose of cumin! That’s just how strong it is! My eyes opened wide at first sniff and then closed as I jerked my head back and away to escape further inhalation. I was astounded. I was expecting something fruity, something floral, maybe just a little spicy at least for an opening. I was not expecting one of the strongest kitchen cooking spices outside garlic to assault my nose. Yes there is a tad of spaghetti sauce herby fresh basil in there too, but the freakish magnitude of the cumin……dear god why?
I am not a bigot. I love Mexican food. It’s one of my favorite cuisines. I love to taste and eat cumin as a food spice, but not in my perfume. I admit, I am negatively sensitive to skank. I detest it. My chemistry tends to magnify base notes and skank as well. I cannot handle the overabundance of cumin in this composition, at least, not on my skin.
I can clearly detect a light Neroli-laced citric and a slightly overripe fleshy passionfruit behind the wall of cumin. Later on, a very beautiful and non-indolic orange blossom/tuberose mélange swirls up from behind that ever present wall of cumin. A very understated foundation of clean, light mossy woods and white musk finish this off…..behind the ever present wall of cumin.
Seriously, the cumin NEVER died on me all through the 4 hour wear. If you want to smell like homemade tacos and little bouquet of white flowers, you might like this, because that is how it plays out on my skin.
A Glorious Shower of Rubies!
Vero Profumo
RUBJ (Extrait de Parfum)
• This review applies only to the Rubj Extrait de Parfum, not the voile d’extrait or the EDP.
Oh my freaking god this is gorgeous. A fresh, powerhouse oriental that is so deep and rich I could drown in it blissfully. Startling clarity and no overdone sugary sweetness in the opening fruity elegant swirl of bergamot/Neroli/mandarin. Yes, I smell Neroli here on my skin. The richness and depth of the succulently juicy mandarin fruit is distinct from the typical, “orange” 5-10x fold found in most orangey topnotes. Thankfully, there is no overdone sourness that exists here in the citrus either. The Neroli is rounded and mellow, not screechy and thin; beautifully blended with the bergamot so that all woody bitterness is neutralized without any added sugar or saccharine, and yet the elegant gravity of the citrus wood itself is not erased. Top notes balanced perfectly here; masterfully done. The opulent floral heart then shimmers out, enveloping the blend in a plush, luxuriant white shower of radiant orange blossoms, non-indolic jasmine, and a delicately supportive silken tuberose. Nothing soapy, nothing detergent-like or shrill here, this is a full bodied white floral center with all harsh edges smoothed into velvet. The supportive base is also multifaceted and perfectly well balanced so as to actually achieve its purpose in increasing the lush profundity of composition by providing an elegant foundation of mossy-earthy-damp woods & restrained musk, without overwhelming the central core. Incredibly well blended clean mélange of cedar, oakmoss, and white musk with no furniture polish or anything vile anywhere to be found. I sense a touch of violet in the base and on me it is dew-laden, non-powdery, liquid, and all plum-dark violet petal seduction. In closing, for me, Rubj is all is beauty and balance, and glorious, sultry, succulent, lush, intoxicating decadence. Tropical fruits and flowers, trees, woods, and moss all in full blooming juicy technicolor ripeness with no hint of decay on my skin. I’m in love with this one!
RUBJ (Extrait de Parfum)
• This review applies only to the Rubj Extrait de Parfum, not the voile d’extrait or the EDP.
Oh my freaking god this is gorgeous. A fresh, powerhouse oriental that is so deep and rich I could drown in it blissfully. Startling clarity and no overdone sugary sweetness in the opening fruity elegant swirl of bergamot/Neroli/mandarin. Yes, I smell Neroli here on my skin. The richness and depth of the succulently juicy mandarin fruit is distinct from the typical, “orange” 5-10x fold found in most orangey topnotes. Thankfully, there is no overdone sourness that exists here in the citrus either. The Neroli is rounded and mellow, not screechy and thin; beautifully blended with the bergamot so that all woody bitterness is neutralized without any added sugar or saccharine, and yet the elegant gravity of the citrus wood itself is not erased. Top notes balanced perfectly here; masterfully done. The opulent floral heart then shimmers out, enveloping the blend in a plush, luxuriant white shower of radiant orange blossoms, non-indolic jasmine, and a delicately supportive silken tuberose. Nothing soapy, nothing detergent-like or shrill here, this is a full bodied white floral center with all harsh edges smoothed into velvet. The supportive base is also multifaceted and perfectly well balanced so as to actually achieve its purpose in increasing the lush profundity of composition by providing an elegant foundation of mossy-earthy-damp woods & restrained musk, without overwhelming the central core. Incredibly well blended clean mélange of cedar, oakmoss, and white musk with no furniture polish or anything vile anywhere to be found. I sense a touch of violet in the base and on me it is dew-laden, non-powdery, liquid, and all plum-dark violet petal seduction. In closing, for me, Rubj is all is beauty and balance, and glorious, sultry, succulent, lush, intoxicating decadence. Tropical fruits and flowers, trees, woods, and moss all in full blooming juicy technicolor ripeness with no hint of decay on my skin. I’m in love with this one!
4 Comments
Bizarre
UNTOLD by Elizabeth Arden
Opens on me with a raucous blast of sweetened dessert pears floating in a viscous corn syrup broth sprinkled with a tad of rosy pink pepper, a dusting of bergamot, and a hint of acidly urinous cassis.
To this is added a central white floral core of weighty jasmine/gardenia that is surprisingly non-indolic, but unfortunately, also very inelegant, ungainly, and ponderous. The white floral accord here is bizarre in that it lacks all ethereal beauty, strength, and headiness in spite of the lack of indoles.
An unpleasant whiff of harsh peony does not smooth the rough edges and rather serves to underscore them along with the cassis. The dry down proceeds to descend into a quagmire of thin and non-herbal, and sickly patchouli, a lackluster musk which wouldn't even pass muster as a sedate skin scent, a nondescript amber that does nothing but add to the general cloying staleness of the mix, and finally an anemic sandalwood accord that only serves to anchor the dessert without adding anything really woody.
Everything that could possibly be a negative in the accords manifests on my skin with this one. Even the reformulated 5th Avenue, which is a pale shadow of its former glory is light years ahead of this one in terms of basic compositional white floral balance, headiness, and beauty.
Those that enjoy fresh scents will probably wrinkle their noses as I did at the unattractive lack of transparency in the florals and everything else here. Those that love the ultra-rich and dark resinous musk blends will most likely shrug their shoulders indifferently at this one. You might like it if you want an opaquely sweet floral without aldehydes. I can’t call it a gourmand either so it doesn’t really fit for the food-lovers either.
A very strange smell this one is on me. Oh well, a learning experience. C’est la vie.
Opens on me with a raucous blast of sweetened dessert pears floating in a viscous corn syrup broth sprinkled with a tad of rosy pink pepper, a dusting of bergamot, and a hint of acidly urinous cassis.
To this is added a central white floral core of weighty jasmine/gardenia that is surprisingly non-indolic, but unfortunately, also very inelegant, ungainly, and ponderous. The white floral accord here is bizarre in that it lacks all ethereal beauty, strength, and headiness in spite of the lack of indoles.
An unpleasant whiff of harsh peony does not smooth the rough edges and rather serves to underscore them along with the cassis. The dry down proceeds to descend into a quagmire of thin and non-herbal, and sickly patchouli, a lackluster musk which wouldn't even pass muster as a sedate skin scent, a nondescript amber that does nothing but add to the general cloying staleness of the mix, and finally an anemic sandalwood accord that only serves to anchor the dessert without adding anything really woody.
Everything that could possibly be a negative in the accords manifests on my skin with this one. Even the reformulated 5th Avenue, which is a pale shadow of its former glory is light years ahead of this one in terms of basic compositional white floral balance, headiness, and beauty.
Those that enjoy fresh scents will probably wrinkle their noses as I did at the unattractive lack of transparency in the florals and everything else here. Those that love the ultra-rich and dark resinous musk blends will most likely shrug their shoulders indifferently at this one. You might like it if you want an opaquely sweet floral without aldehydes. I can’t call it a gourmand either so it doesn’t really fit for the food-lovers either.
A very strange smell this one is on me. Oh well, a learning experience. C’est la vie.
2 Comments
