Florecilla

Ambraliquida - this spell-sounding perfume name fascinated me for quite some time. And every time "Avada Kedavra!" was heard in a Harry Potter movie, I had to think of the "Ambraliquida":) Don't worry - the scent is by no means as morbid as the death curse from the J. Rowling universe, but surprisingly good.

Surprising - because it was namely a blindbay. There was no way for me to test the fragrances of L'Erbolario at the time, so I had to order the Ambraliquida blind. And since the sympathetic Italian brand offers its products for absolutely acceptable prices, the decision was easy for me.

Why I ordered the fragrance in the first place? Because of the name (see above), and because of my desire to try something off the floral track. What would be best suited, if not an amber fragrance, a fragrance whose main substance for thousands of years finds its use in perfumes - namely the liquid amber, the resin of the amber tree.

Before we move on to the fragrant essence, a few words already about the packaging and the bottle - a virtual unboxing so:), because I find the design of both quite successful. Especially the flacon has already appealed to me in promotional photos - this satin dark brown glass fits very well to the fragrance character and has proven haptically a hand-flatterer. The lettering as well as the cap - both held in bronze - also quite suitable. The white cardboard adorn the golden leaves of the said amber tree, which looks firstly very appealing and secondly very authentic - inside is what's on it.

So what is inside? According to my sensation - exactly what Pinkdawn has written in her worth reading and apt review: as "...when you open a box that has been found again after a long time, on which is written autumn". The scent is warm, soft, dry, slightly spicy, distinctly balsamic. Styrax and labdanum play the main roles here. Although I initially denied the fragrance its sweetness, I would still attest to it now. However, this is neither the sticky sweetness of an oriental nibble nor the sweetness of musty foliage, but the subtle sweetness that brings us the wind on a mild October day along with other autumnal aromas.

Indeed, this is how "Ambraliquida" smells to me - like an autumn day, not necessarily lit by the sun, but rather by gorgeous golden-red foliage. This scent makes me wander along winding paths in an autumnal park, where the resinous-balsamic wind swirls dry leaves around me... Oh, what - you become an autumn leaf YOURSELF, ready to be driven along the path by the wind! And that's also due to the fragrance character - namely, it's engaging, pervasive-enveloping (quite characteristic of amber fragrances, as I've now learned). And since the durability and sillage neatly deliver, one should be careful with spraying.

The Ambraliquida is for me a beautiful "mood scent", which - like the Gris Clair - is intended more for internal use. No "show-off" fragrance, although very present in its appearance. He is far from lovely or verfüherischen floral "compliment magnets" and yet he is dear to me :)

PS. I quote in the heading the wonderful lines of R.M.Rilke ("Autumn" from the "Book of Pictures" 1906)

"Datura fastuosa (The Beautiful Datura)" - this is the name of a novella by E.T.A. Hoffmann, one of the most famous writers of German Romanticism. The novella is about a naive youth named Eugenius who becomes involved in the mysterious machinations of the diabolical Count Angelo Mora. The titular plant Datura fastuosa plays a central role in the intrigue surrounding Eugenius and becomes a symbol of temptation and beautiful deception in the narrative.

Since E.T.A. Hoffmann is one of my favorite authors, of course I could not help but try the fragrance, whose name reminded me of the hoffmann novella. Back then (a few years ago), the very first thing I was drawn to was perfume names, not fragrances. If the name appealed to me and made me curious, the perfume had to be tested. And with Serge Lutens fragrances, I found the strangest and most intriguing word creations! After many tests, for the time being, three perfumes from him moved in with me one after the other - including the beautiful mysterious Datura noir.

Undoubtedly, Serge Lutens - just like E.T.A. Hoffmann at the time - was inspired by the reputation of Datura as a narcotic hallucinogenic plant, this "devil's herb", which has been used since rather in the Old and New World in so-called witch potions and initiation rituals. Even today, the description of this nightshade plant in any reference book is accompanied by the reference to its high toxicity.

Did the fragrance then live up to this "devilish" reputation? Does the perfume smell as if its floral ingredients came from a hoffmannesque garden? The fragrance is generally considered heavy, sweet, floral-opulent (which is off-putting to many), although there are other voices on Parfumo that describe the scent as light, creamy and tame. However, the creator himself has dubbed the Datura as the seductress of twilight ("séductrice du crépuscule") and thus we are all entitled to expect a beguiling (even sensory-robbing) effect:)

Well, the Datura Noir has this effect for me, but in a subtle - yes just dodgy - way. He is for me the olfactory embodiment of the femme fatale, a type of woman who is present since ancient times in human perception and thus in art and literature (as we know him, for example, from the film Noir of the 40s). A mysterious woman whose beauty seems enigmatic and threatening, but is always almost hypnotically attractive. A woman who is characterized by intelligence, certain coldness of feeling, striving for power and urge for self-determination, and therefore very often perceived as a demonic deadly seductress.

So for me the fragrance - neither heavy nor overly sweet, but unmistakably strong in character and very attractive. It is floral, but in a wonderfully elegant and adult way - and please do not confuse adult with mature! As with another Serge Lutens I own, my fragrance compass, which is also unreliable anyway, fails here - I can't for the life of me enumerate the exact sequence of floral notes and all the other ingredients, as they are so artfully woven together here. The scent is also not at all somber to me, but actually bright, or rather transparent. Yes, it has for me despite the warm creamy notes a certain crystal clear coolness that makes it seem distant.

It's neither clingy nor superficial, it's not everyday but it's suitable for everyday use, it doesn't hit any big curves in the course but stays true to its line without becoming boring - all thanks to its complexity and appeal. Yes, he is truly a femme fatale, once known as a dangerous seductress, nowadays simply a woman who knows what she wants and goes her own way:)

PS. And what does this have to do with E.T.A. Hoffman in the end? Well, you probably won't be surprised to learn that there is also a femme fatale in the aforementioned novella - as a female counterpart to the Datura from the garden of the mysterious Count - namely the beautiful mysterious Countess Gabriela, whose charms almost became the undoing of the poor main hero. But don't worry - he managed to escape her fascination and her seductive powers. However, I am completely addicted to the attraction of the Serge Lutens fragrance:)

Was it in one of my last reviews about a Xerjoff fragrance, so the crème de la crème of luxury perfumery, I take today an absolute counterpart - a Cheapie of unknown origin without noble lineage.

Okay, I exaggerate a little, some things I was able to find out about my foundling. The perfume is produced since 1998/1999 on behalf of SPCC Paris Bleu, a group whose business partner in North America was called or is still called Red Pearl Inc. In June 2021, SPCC Paris Bleu underwent a complete relaunch and now simply calls itself SPCC - Société Parisienne de Parfums & Cosmétiques. On the company's website, the Red Pearl is praised as a significant emblematic perfume that would have marked the history of SPCC with its overwhelming success.

As you can see, the supposed orphan nevertheless has a notable, if somewhat convoluted origin - very much in the style of 19th century trashy novels:) However, you can't find out very much about SPCC's perfumes - you only know they would be developed in collaboration with renowned (but unnamed) perfumers and made in Honfleur, Normandy. And - that they are enormously cheap.

Therefore, the question arises - can a perfume for currently 24,99 € fulfill all that one expects from a decent perfume so? At least smell nice and be durable? Or would such a fragrance be just trash? Well, I would say, the Red Pearl beats itself valiantly:) But do not forget - I have not yet tested too many fragrances, enjoy my assessment with caution. Certainly resonates here also in view of the low price a very decent portion of synthetic fragrances.

So, the Red Pearl is from the fragrance direction feminine, fruity-spicy-floral and warm. The fragrance pyramid turns out neither too lush nor too minimalist and does not seem too trivial. However, the individual fragrance notes are hard for me to smell out, I can only report on the changes in the course of the fragrance: initially I perceive a somewhat drier tart-sweet note, which then increasingly gains in warmth, sweetness, spiciness and a certain "juiciness". I find this heart note very attractive - it has a caressing effect, warming from within and evoking a strong association with grape punch. And believe me - the perfume name and the look of the bottle didn't sway me, I got that red grape vibe immediately after the first test:) Oriental is not necessarily the scent for me - I think of it more like vineyards in the south of France, warm sun rays, golden autumn and sweet grape must. In the drydown, the fragrance retains this grape juice note, but it loses intensity and fades pleasantly and quietly.

The shelf life is above average: over 8 hours with projection and sillage and then additionally over 4 hours close to the body.

So, I am satisfied with my foundling - it is a fragrance that gives you pleasure, attracts, is wearable on many occasions and - for my opinion - does not smell "cheap". He even has a recognition value - at least for me - and thus not generic-cheap. A quite worthy very feminine fragrance that makes for nice cozy hours in the fall, but can also be used all year round. The adoption succeeded! :)

PS. A little tip: if you want to test the perfume "live", you can find it regularly in the perfumery departments of the large department store, which was created a few years ago from two venerable chains.

Don't let my statement discourage you - the scent is by no means bad, but it did irritate me quite a bit at first. The name literally conjures up a fluffy cuddly marshmallow fragrance (Guimauve=Marshmallow) and I was curious how that should work -in view of the lush herbaceous-floral-spicy-woody fragrance pyramid.

Well, it didn't work right away. The scent actually starts off green-herbaceous, only then comes the warm sweetness that lingers on the skin for a longer time without any changes. This note is not sticky-penetrating, but inviting and actually reminiscent of a dessert - marshmallow or cotton candy. The woody base notes are, unfortunately, barely perceptible to me.

The scent lasts about 7 hours on my skin, the projection and sillage are moderate. On clothing, the scent lasts much longer and remains pleasant throughout.

So, my verdict turns out mixed - the fragrance has first before me his gourmandigkeit vorborgen and showed me a long herbaceous-spicy tongue, the rogue! His marshmallow heart, however, he has in the right place and therefore donates willingly a few hours of cozy sweet warmth.

If you are looking for a somewhat cleaner and finer version of a Guimauve fragrance that lasts a little longer on the skin, but is much more expensive, you might find it here: "Guimauve de Noël/31 | Parle Moi de Parfum"

Of the three Les Notes Gourmandes fragrances, this is the only one that does not have a "real" gourmand name, but rather the name of a plant. Heliotrope is also called "vanilla flower" or "cherry pie flower", because its smell is reminiscent of vanilla and marzipan. Heliotropin has already sweetened many a noble perfume and also found its use here.

The older sister in the Les Notes Gourmands trio was the most unwieldy for me - as its sweetness is mixed with a portion of balsamic spice and the fragrance comes along overall in a certain way green. The first half hour was particularly difficult for me - I got a full load of benzoin balsamic, so I certainly understand the medicinal associations of some perfumas. After that, the fragrance becomes more conciliatory, and the green-tinged sweetness comes in and really caresses you. Whether this sweetness should now resemble pistachio ice cream or Amarettini cookies, this is left to the preferences of each tester:).

The scent lasts on my skin about 7 hours, the projection and sillage are good. On the clothes, the scent lasts much longer and could then already seem intrusive.

I have not quite warmed to the fragrance, although it is undeniably interesting composition. For all who want to try a sugary gourmand special kind, he would be worth a test.