GewoonBBGewoonBB's Perfume Reviews

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GewoonBB 2 years ago
7.5
Scent
8
Sillage
9
Bottle

Encre Noir A L'Extreme (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)
• LALIQUE ENCRE NOIRE A L'EXTREME •

If you start your fragrance journey going by community recommendations, you will come across the Encre Noir trio sooner or later. I blind bought the A L'Extreme flanker as one of my first purchases. It's dark, heavy, gothic and a bit challenging.

Vetiver is the name of the game with this one, and it's a green, deep vetiver, working in tangent with cypress. The woods lead the way and the incense adds quite a lot of smokiness. I love vetiver, but I'd say this is at the edge of a comfortable wear for me. It's not neccesarily a dirty, super earthy vetiver, but it's green and combined with the cypress, it reminds me of tree sap from a pine tree. This is a fall and winter fragrance exclusively for me. However, not a comforting, warm fragrance, but more of a mysterious, dark, cold fragrance. Not so much as an evening by the fireplace, but more so a nightly winter walk in a pine forest. Aside from the woods and smoke, there's not too much to the scent. Some wafts I get a hint of booziness, but not overly so. I do think it's well-balanced and it's not too wild or harsh, but as a beginner, buying this at the pricepoint, you might be getting more than what you bargained for.

I only tried the original Encre Noir once, but from what I can gather, the A L'Extreme is a bit smokier and complex (although still pretty simple), whereas the original is even more bare-boned (and dare I say, more extreme). The performance on this is okay. It's really strong and pungent at first, but the longevity is average. It will cling to your clothing for ages though, so be warned. You can pick up a 100ml with great presentation, for about 25€, and for that price you're getting a scent profile far out of the range of your common designer fragrances. You can't really go wrong with it. For me, it was love at first sniff, but I soon found it challenging to find occassions on which to wear it, so the bottle will last me forever •

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GewoonBB 2 years ago
8
Scent

Hummingbird (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)
• ZOOLOGIST HUMMINGBIRD •

The honor of my second trying of the house of Zoologist went to Hummingbird. This is an Extrait de Parfum that opens really strong, but also instantly clearly feminine to me.

The lilac flower is the star of the show here, giving the opening an overall floral and slightly sweet scent. Now as a guy with a balcony and strictly articial flowers in his house (partially due to my cats eating flowers, partially due to my gift to let even cactuses die within a week), I'm not able to distinguish most florals. My initial connection with Hummingbird was the smell of orchids. The second main note here is honey, but in the opening I only got the sweetness and not so much the creamy or smooth texture that sometimes comes with a honey accord. Most surprisingly, when looking at the listed notes, is that I barely got any of the fruits in the opening. Pear, apple, cherry and plum are listed, but I wouldn't say this has a fruity opening at all. It's not until the drydown, where fruits become a more prominent player, turning into a sweet pear fragrance to my nose. Whereas the first hours have a slight musky and powdery undertone, the drydown also becomes much more creamier, which I really enjoyed.

Overall, this is a beautiful, smooth fragrance, but it leans overly feminine for my personal taste. Obviously everyone should be able to wear any kind of fragrance, but as long as we're using gender to label fragrances, I would be hard pressed to label this one as unisex. The drydown is more unisex to me, but the opening reminded me of female hair shampoos, however beautiful the scent may be.

Performance is good to great. It's slightly less present during the day than Zoologist's Panda was, but it opens pretty loud and as a skin scent it will last all day or into the next morning. I could highly recommend this to female readers, for the guys I'd suggest getting your hands on a sample (the discovery sets are gorgeous and Zoologist is one of the few brands that provide affordable worldwide shipping) •

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GewoonBB 2 years ago 1
9.5
Scent

Maremma (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)
• TIZIANA TERENZI MAREMMA •

Recently, I went through my last wearing on my Tom Ford Black Orchid sample, which I really enjoyed and I contemplated buying a bottle. When I discussed this, I was recommended looking at Tiziana Terenzi's Maremma as an alternative. Flashforward...first succesful blind-buy of 2020 accomplished.
Maremma is an Extrait de Parfum that opens nearly identical to Black Orchid to my nose. There are a lot of notes listed, but what pops out at you are the patchouli, cocoa and an array of flowers (and orris) that I would not be able to distinguish. There's a slight fruitiness to the composition, with blackcurrant and ylang ylang. In the drydown, this starts to differentiatie itself more from Black Orchid, turning into a sweeter (though definitely not overly sweet) and more accesible or lighter scent. The cocoa feels a bit stronger here, giving it a powdery chocolate scent. The fruitiness fades in the drydown, but there remains a floral and slightly vegital accord. It's not too earthy or green for my taste and it's very smooth, and not too powdery, which is not something I always like. There's only one thing that's keeping me from giving this a perfect score scent-wise, and that's a hint of plastic or as one review I read described, chewing gum, that sometimes keeps rearing it's head.

As an Extrait de Parfum I'd say it's quite subtle giving how dark and heavy the scent can be, with moderate projection and sillage. Which does add to the versatily of the fragrance, so that's not necessarily a bad thing (edit: on second full wear, it's stronger than I initially noticed). Longevity is above average. It's a unisex fragrance and if you're familiar with Black Orchid and enjoy that one, I think you will enjoy this one as a man as well, but this definitely doesn't lean more masculine to me. Looking at the quality, the scent and the presentation, for the price, this gives Black Orchid a real run for it's money and I'm surprised it isn't talked about more frequently •

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GewoonBB 2 years ago
4
Scent

Another Oud (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)
• JULIETTE HAS A GUN ANOTHER OUD •

Ah another oud...and it's a conflicting fragrance and ultimately, a misfire for me.

Another Oud was interesting from the start, with a pretty strong raspberry note added to the oud. Almost instantly, I felt like the raspberry was needed to save this fragrance for me. Whereas I think that the raspberry in Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather or more so in Rasasi's La Yuqawam is needed to make the scent more wearable and versatile, I like the leather note as it is. The oud in Another Oud on it's own however, is something I'd pass on. It smells oddly familiar, but not in a pleasant way. There's a hospital or nursing home quality to the scent and also a lingering barnyard-y smell. When I made an effort to hone in on the barnyard aspect, I could make out a slightly leathery, animalic touch.

Now the lines above might come off a bit more negative than I intend them to be. The raspberry is a really nice touch and obviously on a regular wear, you're not putting your nose close to your skin and you're not analysing the fragrance this hard. Smelled in the air, the negatives are less prominent. After smelling Acqua Di Parma's Colonia Oud and Montale's Fantastic Oud, I might conclude that in general, these more modern, fresher takes on oud aren't really up my alley. That being said, Another Oud is not topping that category for me either. I get some enjoyable wafts during the first hours, when the raspberry freshness is still around, but once the raspberry settles into a mild sweetness, there's nothing to save the rather harsh and unpleasant oud. That harshness must be in part due to the load of ambroxan that's in here. The ambroxan adds some warmth, but it's not a cozy, well-rounded warmth, but rather a loud, powdery unrefined undertone. Longevity and projection are good, so if you are a fan of this scent profile, this is a winner. For me, unfortunately, Another Oud is a no go •

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GewoonBB 2 years ago 1
6
Scent

Black Phantom (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)
• By Kilian Black Phantom •

By Kilian (or is it Kilian Paris now?) has been recommended to me plenty of times, so in one of my first sample orders I included Black Phantom...I didn't like it, but given the status it had, I waited a while to give it another shot.

Based on the notes, I should love this, but my perception of this fragrance steers quite a bit away from what the listed notes suggest (in the first hour). I get a lot of the sweetness, the caramel, the rum, but I also get a hint of green, a bit of saltiness and most of all, liquorice. Almost like salmiak. What I unfortunately don't get as much as others seem to get, is the coffee note. The opening is reminiscent of Carner's Ambar Del Sur for me. I wouldn't say the scent is bad at all, but I don't really love it and because it projects really strong, it starts to border on being unpleasant after a while.

The drydown is where this fragrance is starting to win me over. The sweetness starts to tone down a bit (as well as the projection), the booziness remains and is in my opinion the best part of the scent. The green and salty bits that I picked up on, completely disappear, and in place, there's nuts (almond and heliotrope) and creamy sandalwood. The fragrance becomes much more cozy to me and turns into something akin to a sweet pastry, next to a cup of instant caramel coffee (usually those kinds of drinks barely taste like coffee, so no, I don't get more coffee in the drydown). By this point, this comes closer to a rum injected Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Grand Soir, which I absolutely love. The liquorice-esque scent lingers around for a while, but it's not as strong as in the opening.

Longevity is really good, although by the time it turns into a real skin scent, most of the depth and complexity is gone and I get more of a generic sweetness. Overall, I'm not fully sold on the first hour of the wear, but I 'get' it now. Would I be inclined to run out to get a bottle...There are a couple of gourmands high on my wishlist, like Grand Soir and Lubin's Korrigan, which also has a nice booziness. I think Black Phantom isn't ready to skip the line yet, but it definitely made the ever-growing list •

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