GewoonBBGewoonBB's Perfume Reviews

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GewoonBB 2 years ago 1

Honour Man (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)

I've been trying out a lot of Amouage fragrances, some I love, some are not my personal taste, but I can appreciate them for what they are. With Honour Man however, I can say I'm not a fan at all.

The opening is very spicy and a bit green. There's the same spicy nutty quality to it, that I got from Opus II, which reminds me of rucola or maybe walnut. It's quite strong in the opening, almost palpable. There's a huge dose of peppers, that becomes particularly overpowering in the drydown. It also makes the opening harsher than what I'm used to from the house (even though it's not nearly as powerful as Interlude Man or Opus VI). There's a little bit of freshness, which I viewed as redeeming quality.

The drydown is milder, but similar in scent, although the woody base comes through more. Vetiver is a very distinct note in Honour Man. The vetiver leans more towards Encre Noir, albeit it lighter. It's not a clean, soapy vetiver. I think the vetiver on it's own smells pretty good and interesting, but with the overload of pepper and a slightly powdery texture, it just wasn't a pleasant composition to my nose. Performance was good, though not special compared to other offerings from Amouge.

To me, this fragrance has little to offer. There are a lot better vetiver options out there and if you like the opening of Honour Man, I think Opus II is a more unique and interesting alternative •

GewoonBB 2 years ago

Colonia Essenza (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)

I recently tried Colonia Oud as my first Acqua Di Parma, I went in with high expectations and left a bit dissappointed. This time around my expectations were lowered and I had a much better time with Colonia Essenza.

Essenza opens with a very bright and sharp citrus accord. There's a distinct neroli and orange scent, but it has a tartness closer to lemon. That initial sharpness does fade away quickly and almost instantly this does what I expected it to do; become a fresh, masculine, aftershave/cologne style fragrance. It's incredibly smooth and I'd say more classy than the Colonia Oud.
As expected, the citrus becomes more of a background accord in the drydown, where a musky and soapy vetiver scent becomes more prominent, giving this it's clean 'fresh out of the shower' connection. There's a hint of neroli and zestiness left to save it from becoming too bland, but the drydown isn't as nice as the opening. This is more the nature of the beast with the style of fragrance than it's a negative comment on Colonia Essenza.

Performance is good for a freshy. It doesn't blow my mind, but I'm pretty sure this is better value for your money than Tom Ford's Neroli Portefino is (although I haven't tried the Forte flanker). Colonia Essenza does not make me regret my purchase of Bvlgari's excellent Wood Neroli. Colonia Oud has a bit more depth and masculinity than Wood Neroli, where Wood Neroli tries to hold on to the citrus opening more than turning into an aftershave style fragrance. Performance on both are equally decent, so at the lower pricepoint the Bvlgari is a great alternative. I do recommend everyone trying Acqua Di Parma Colonia Essenza though, as it does exactly what it sets out to do, without any flaws I can detect •

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GewoonBB 2 years ago

Bee (@Nose.Knows.No.Notes)

Bee was the most anticipated fragrance out of the Zoologist discovery set that I acquired, and it met my expectations. This is a stunning fragrance from start to finish, albeit somewhat for an 'appreciation of the art', rather than being the perfect scent to wear.

The opening is a floral, honey accord, that's extremely natural smelling. There's a hint of orange, but only faintly. It's slightly powdery and the opening is reminiscent of pollen and flowers at a sunny dawn. It quickly becomes sweeter, as the orange and flowers fade even more and the honey really takes the lead. There's a touch of nuttiness from the heliotrope. The honey accord is sweetened by vanilla and tonka and there's a good balance of powdery and syrupy texture.

The drydown is very similar as this is a linear scent to my nose. It leans a bit feminine and the powdery quality has a classic perfume connotation. Men can definitely pull this one off though. It's a bit sweet for my taste, but this fragrance sits pretty close to the skin, so the sweetness isn't in your face all the time. Longevity seems fine, but this one isn't as strong as Zoologist's Panda or Hummingbird on my first wear. As more of a skin scent, it's gorgeous. I kept smelling it up close and everytime I'm surprised at how true to life this honey smells.
What is your favorite Zoologist fragrance? •

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GewoonBB 2 years ago

Lippizan (@Nose.Nose.No.Notes)

Parfums de Marly sometimes gets a bad reputation by niche lovers for making fragrances that are too conventional and mainstream for the pricepoint, but so far I have tried several that have flown under the radar or that just don't get the same attention that their more popular fragrances get. Layton Exclusif is a pretty challenging and lovely fragrance that you wouldn't find in a designer, Shagya one of the most slept-on vetiver scents and Lippizan is an interesting throwback.

Lippizan instantly reminded me of some Amouage fragrances, although not as powdery, despite it containing iris. I can't recall the exact fragrance profile differences, but it has a hint of Opus VII (which is greener) and Journey Man. There's a distinct animalic touch, warm and almost sour. In the opening it's combined with citrus, florals and last, but definitely not least, herbs. I'm usually not a fan of an animalic accord like this, but here it overpowers some of the green and herbal notes, in which case I prefer it over it not being there. The citrus combined with the other notes (amber, vetiver) gives it a balmy, soft, orange candle or soap like quality. Additionally I picked up on the cardamom straight away.

I said throwback in the intro, because this smells like an older style fragrance. There's definitely a bit of barbershop, especially in the opening. I don't have a lot of experience with those, but that's the connection I'm getting. I think it's because it's quite heavy, with the use of musk and moss. Despite it being quite heavy, performance could be better, but it's not bad either.

When I sprayed this on for the first time a while back, I didn't like it all, but on my second wear, it grew on me. Lippizan is not the type of fragrance I'd add to my collection, but it's definitely one that was worth sampling and one of the house that I think could be discussed more •

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