GewoonBBGewoonBB's Perfume Reviews

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GewoonBB 2 years ago

Between Two Trees (NKNN)

The second offering I tried from Floraiku (after the gorgeous One Umbrella For Two), is one from the Shadow collection: Between Two Trees.

The three listed notes for this one are grapefruit, mate and vetiver. It opens really interesting and it had me smelling my arm all the time. For a moment I didn't get the grapefruit; I did get a citrus, but maybe more a cheap orange drink like a Capri Sun, mixed with a new car smell. It is a bit smoky and leathery, but mostly it has a fresh, clean, herbal greenish tone. After letting it sit it does get more like grapefruit to me, maybe an overripe grapefruit or at least a pulp, not so much a really fresh citrus. It feels like a really dry texture, without it being powdery, more like a second skin and the projection is really subtle. I'm not exactly sure what mate is supposed to smell like, but it's a unique note that I believe is responsible for the herbal, earthy touches. It smells like a light animalic to me at times, hence the leathery, new car smell. But nothing jumps out, it smells almost sterile, and then again, some wafts make me think of pine trees, so I haven't really figured it out.

The grapefruit doesn't last all that long, but it remains interesting. It gives way to more of the vetiver, which is one of my favorite notes. It becomes an extremely dry, fresh woody scent with an herbal, almost minty touch. The smokiness remains, so it gives a tobbaco like vibe, but not a warm tobacco, more like a mint cigarette. It's fresher than a Versace The Dreamer or Xerjoff Uden Overdose. It's not really 'my kind' of fragrance, but I was almost obsessively smelling myself on my first wear and still enjoyed my second wear. It's really versatile, almost signature scent worthy in similar vein to Ormonde Man and it's a great different green vibe for warmer weather like Xerjoff Nio or Amouage Beach Hut, although not similar in smell.

The longevity was okay, but nothing special. Performance isn't impressive, as this one is 255 for the bottle. I personally prefer the scent of One Umbrella For Two, but still, this was an amazing experience and I'm happy I have another sample of this one (it came as a complimentary double). •

GewoonBB 2 years ago 3

One Umbrella For Two (NKNN)
Floraiku isn't a much talked about brand, but my first impression, that of One Umbrella For Two, is great, so let's dive in.

Earlier this week I received my discovery set from Floraiku. It's a house that I'd heard of before, but I neve really paid attention to it. A while back I saw Peter from Fragranceview in an old video, where he sampled the Floraiku line-up in the Dubai Mall and it piqued my interest. This is actually owned by the same people behind Memo Paris and largely uses the same perfumers. I feel way more of a connection to the presentation of Floraiku though. The bottles are amazing, although expensive at 255€ for 50ml, but they do come with an extra 10ml and you can use the cap of the full bottle as a travel atomizer for the 10ml, which I think is pretty creative. The brand has 4 collections,with different color bottles. One Umbrella For Two is part of the Secret Teas and spices collection. This was my first time trying Floraiku and it's definitely a winner. As with everything from Floraiku, only three notes are listed; in this case: blackcurrant, (genmaicha) tea & cedar oil.
There are two clear connections I make with this scent. One is the obvious one: a mirky blackcurrant tea. It's quite a fruity, slightly sweet, but also sour and greenish blackcurrant note. I'd expected it to remind me of Amouage Jubilation XXV, but One Umbrella For Two is more uplifting and bright. The other connection I get, is to a slightly nutty bread or bread pudding. I am not familiar with genmaicha tea, but from what I read, it's a green tea infused with roasted popped brown rice, so I imagine that's where this savory, gourmand element originates. I think it smells awesome and it's a very smooth blend straight from the opening. It's quite linear, although that roasted quality fades and instead of getting darker or just sweeter, as most fragrances, this one gets more feminine in the drydown for sure, although it remains unisex in my opinion. I can imagine this one getting boring when you wear it often, which I'd say is one of the only downsides I can think of. It feels like a high quality composition and One Umbrella For Two is one of the most unique fragrances I've come across. It's niche for sure, but versatile and easy-going. Unisex, all ages and although it maybe a bit too much for high heat, otherwise wearable year-round.

This was a great first impression of the house for me. The perfumer, Alienor Massenet did most of the fragrances in my discovery set, so I have high hopes. As I mentioned Floraiku isn't a cheap brand; so they have to offer something worthy of that expense. In my opinion, espcially because of how unique it is, One Umbrella For Two does a good job to justify the price point (and the gorgeous presentation helps). This was just a first impression of this particular one, but I'll shed some light on more of the fragrances in the discovery set in the future •
2 Replies

GewoonBB 2 years ago

Not a Jazz Club (NKNN)
I recently got a 10 piece discovery set from Maison Margiela in, so you can expect more impressions in the upcoming weeks, but I wanted to start with one that I had smelled before: Jazz Club.

Jazz Club is supposed to be a tobbaco and rum heavy fragrance, but interestingly enough, I get a clear coconut scent in the opening. Not a sourish, tropical coconut, but more so a semi-sweet, neutral nutty coconut, which I love. A hint of citrus in the first hour, makes for a surprisingly 'fresh' wear, considering what this is supposed to represent. The tobacco and rum are also both prominent, although the latter maybe less so, as I think tobacco is the more dominant of the two. The tobacco isn't really smoky or ashy and I could've easily mistaken it for suede. It's not a harsh, nor a realistic tobacco note and the more this fragrance dries down, the more it becomes a vetiver, woody fragrance, rather than a tobacco one. It also becomes heavy on the vanilla in the drydown and it has a vanilla candle vibe. Combined with the sweetness, it makes for a more unisex wear that I would've guessed based on the listed notes.

Because of the rum note this smells a bit like the classic Dolce & Gabbana The One (Jazz Club is more tropical, more tobacco and sweeter though), which I own and I love the smell of. The problem with The One is that the performance is laughable on my skin. Unfortunately, I can't say I'm really happy with the performance of Jazz Club either, it's not an impressive performer for a boozy tobbaco type fragrance and I'd say it's below average to average. I do love the scent however. I think with a name like Jazz Club it's a bit of a mismatch and especially looking at the notes, it can throw you off if you go in with different expectations. I'm not sure if a bottle purchase is fully justified with the moderate performance, but it's comforting and versatile and it's a smell that I wouldn't mind coming back to at all •

GewoonBB 2 years ago 3

Better than Bee (NKNN)

If you don't want to read, you can watch the video on it (same information)

Slowdive is a honey forward scent and the honey is really front and center throughout. Both are amazing in their own rights, but it's hard not to draw comparisons to Zoologist Bee. Both are very lifelike, natural honey dominated fragrances with a similar honey accord and price wise they are in the same ballpark with Slowdive being 155€ for 50ml and I believe Bee goes for 195€ for 60ml. For me Bee was great, but more for the artistry; it's so natural, that I felt as if I rubbed raw honey on my body and I got a long lasting, well projecting, linear experience. Slowdive adds a couple more nuances, but retains that realistic raw honey, beeswax vibe with a bit of a green edge, at least in the opening. It is a bit more floral, with an ever so slight exotic touch from the tuberose, some neroli and orange blossom in the opening, although I found those to be very subtle. Some dried fruits are listed as well. None of them really take away anything from the honey though, they are just little additions that add some dimensions and depth. The only note that really pops up next to the honey from time to time is the tobacco blossom. As the name suggests, that has a tobacco scent, but it's really soft and floral and it smells more like a woody, dry grass or hay with the most easy going hint of tobacco. It is quite a linear fragrance still. I get some sourish and more herbal wafts in the drydown that I can't really place, but otherwise, it doesn't change all that much. The opening is a bit loud for a couple of minutes, but otherwise it's more of a subtle wear. It's not as powerful, longlasting or projecting as Hyde or Voyage 2019 from the brand were. Which I think adds to the wearability, compared to Zoologists Bee, which is more in your face.

To me this is a comforting, dreamy, sweet honey fragrance, that might still be a little bit one dimensional, but I guess that's the cost for wanting to present that honey so vividly and I think Slowdive found a great balance and I would definitely recommend this to anyone that's looking for a good honey fragrance or those who have Zoologist Bee on their wishlist.

GewoonBB 2 years ago 1

Blood Orange (NKNN)

Blood Orange is the first I wanted to share my thoughts on, as I wore it a couple of times and it's the easiest to digest. As the name suggests, this is an orange fragrance and it's great as a fresh, easy-going scent. The opening has some sharpness, but in a pleasant way. It is very zesty and at first it's a bit brighter, like mandarin (which I believe is an actual note) or even lemon zest. It slowly becomes smoother, softer and the blood orange has a bit more depth than other citrusses. Combined with a subtle musk, which adds a hint of elegance, and amber, it's not just suitable for high heat, but also great in milder Spring weather. The quality of the fruity accord feels really high and it smells natural.

The performance is good, based on my first wears I'd say excellent longevity and above average projection for a fresh scent like this. I haven't worn it in real warm or sunny weather, I think that's where Blood Orange will shine (or as Aaron suggested, during physical activity) •

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