GewoonBBGewoonBB's Perfume Reviews

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GewoonBB 2 years ago 5

Une Rose (NKNN)
• FREDERIC MALLE UNE ROSE •

Portrait Of A Lady by Malle is my favorite rose so far, so how does Une Rose compare?

Une Rose is a very 'red' rose. I wouldn't say it's sharp (it's not comparable to a Montale rose), but it's very bold. The rose has a fresh, tangy, almost sour tinge and it comes off really natural. It's a balance of being only slightly green and only slightly jammy, with more a punchy brightness, that I never came across before. There's a hint of musk underneath and overall it leaves a somewhat bitter or tart impression. Aside from the rose, you get this 'red wine' accord. There's definitely something there, but I'm not sure if I would describe it as red wine (which is a smell I strongly dislike), maybe a clear dry mild red wine or a rosé.

As it dries down, it remains very bold and rich and it does get warmer, but without getting much sweeter, which is nice for a change. I don't pick up on the truffle or even the honey that are listed at all. You do get a woody base, but the rose overpowers it all the way to the end.

This is extremely strong. I wore this side by side with Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Oud Satin Mood (a beast) and the Une Rose could definitely keep up with it. Finding an occasion for this one might be a challenge; I haven't tried it yet, but I would probably want to avoid warm weather, not so much for the scent, but purely for the performance. Men could pull this off, but I think it's most suitable for, middle-age or mature women who like to portray elegance or even opulence •
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GewoonBB 2 years ago 1

Rose Omeyyade (NKNN)
• ATELIER DES ORS ROSE OMEYYADE •

Rose Omeyyade is my second dive into Atelier des Ors (the first was Aube Rubis, which I loved). Based on the notes I was pretty sure that I would love this one as well and sure enough, I do...with one caveat, it's not the most unique fragrance.

Rose Omeyyade is a sweet rose. It has an oud component as many rose fragrances do, but the oud in here is of the mildest variety. I don't know if I would have really picked up on the oud if I hadn't seen the note breakdown. There's nothing challenging or harsh in this fragrance and the rose itself is soft and smooth. The candied rose is similar in scent to the one in Malle's Portrait Of A Lady, but it does not have that sparkling, almost palpable quality in the opening. I don't know if what I'm about to say makes sense to anyone, but Portrait Of A Lady feels yellow or green to me, whereas Rose Omeyyade feels pink or red. I think it has a lot to do with the amber, which adds quite a bit of warmth to the composition. There's a brown sugar note listed, which sounds interesting, but honestly, I don't get a particularly special or different scent compared to other sweet roses that I've tried. What is clearly noticable and different however, is the raspberry. I forgot this contained raspberry and initally I couldn't pinpoint what was different. It has a distinct fruity (what turns out is raspberry) touch and I think that's the key differentiator for Rose Omeyyade.

Not that I feel like it's a complete copy otherwise , but it is stacked up against a legion of sweet rose (often with oud) fragrances and I'm not sure if it does enough to stand out or be the better option. For me, Portrait Of A Lady is unbeatable, but it is more pronounced. And I have Oud Satin Mood, which is much heavier on the sweetness and the oud than Rose Omeyyade is. They are more exciting and I think I like both of those a bit better purely based on scent, however, if you're looking for a softer wear, that's an easier grab for most occasions, Rose Omeyyade becomes a real alternative...especially if you like the raspberry note! Unisex for sure, altough obviously men who don't like rose might feel it's too feminine for them •

GewoonBB 2 years ago 1

Squid (NKNN)
• ZOOLOGIST SQUID •

First of all...the color of that juice! This was an interesting one from Zoologist (which is pretty much a pleonasm). Putting this in the 'easy-loving' discovery set might be a bit of stretch, because it's far from conventional, although it is wearable for sure.

For me, this fragrance is clearly divided into two sides. On one hand, I get the inky, ambergris, aquatic scent. On the other hand, I get a peppery, spicey, warmer benzoin accord, that somehow almost reminds me of warm gingerbread or something in the direction of a spiced bread. The sides are tied together with smokiness from the incense and the opoponax. I feel like the aquatic or 'blue' notes are amplified by the color of the fragrance and the marketing, but it's not a typical marine aquatic scent at all. Salt is listed as the main note on Fragrantica for example, but in my opinion it's the pepper that clearly overpowers it in the composition.

I had to get used to it for a bit, but I didn't mind it at all later in the wear, although it's not for me. I think this would suit an older gentleman very well as far as the scent goes. The projection however, limits the wearability severely. It's an extrait de parfum, it's long lasting, but also projecting loudly for quite a while, which is something that this scent doesn't benefit from in my opinion •
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GewoonBB 2 years ago 2

Voyage 2019 (NKNN)
• HIRAM GREEN VOYAGE 2019 •

Voyage 2019 is an updated version of a 2015 release (which I have not tried). It's my second Hiram Green fragrance, after trying Hyde, which won Art & Olfaction Award last year. I will be doing a video on Hyde, in which I will also address Voyage 2019, but you can read my thoughts on the latter below.

Voyage is an amazing sweet amber fragrance. It opens very strong and more spicey than I expected. Although it's not listed, to me it has an incense scent (similar to the DNA that's in Hyde). There's a hint of citrus, but it's understated. After the initial punchy opening, it becomes sweeter and warmer, with a hint of florals. Voyage is centered around lotus. I don't know exactly how a lotus flower smells, but I feel it adds a tropical, exotic, almost body lotion element to this composition. To my nose, the florals here reminds me of tuberose fragrances that I tried recently. The essence in Voyage is the warm vanilla though; it's lifelike, gourmandy and reminds me of a vanilla pudding or other sort of dessert, maybe with a touch of honey to complete it.

Stunning fragrance. Seemingly simple, but executed well and I have a feeling the listed notes don't do the full composition justice. This is much more wearable than Hyde in my opinion, but Hiram Green is 2 for 2 as far as my experiences go and I look forward to trying out more from the house •

GewoonBB 2 years ago 4

1888 (NKNN)
• XERJOFF CASAMORATI 1888 •

After a couple of great first experiences with Xerjoff (Nio, Naxos, More Than Words, Uden Overdose), it's time to sidestep to their Casamorati imprint as well. 1888 is the only sample I have at the moment. Yesterday, I saw 1888 appear in instafraghead's top 5 most addicitive fragrances post, so I figured it would be a good time to sample it.

1888 is clearly a strong, punchy fragrance, as reflected by the color of the fragrance itself. It's a warm spicy scent, with a peppery amber with floral or even herbal touch. My first impression was that of a cola syrup scent with a herbal or minty backdrop. After a few minutes, it becomes warmer and deeper, and the spices become stronger. It actually reminds me of a deeper, higher quality and spicier version of the L'Oreal Men Exper Barber Club products that I use on my beard. Although that's supposed to be cedar wood, but it does surprise me that 1888 doesn't list more wood notes other than sandalwood and birch. Later in the drydown is becomes a bit sweeter, which I feel like stems from the patchouli, although I read people say it's a honey-like sweetness, which I can get behind. Especially, because it also gets creamier. Very pleasant and indeed quite an addictive scent.

The longevity is amazing. I did a quick respray during the night, but 24 hours later, including a shower, it's still noticable as a skin scent •
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