Glitteralex

Interesting how the category of "Chypre Floral" has changed so much in the last 30 years! This is an archetypal Floral Chypre that bears no semblance to those on the shelves today.

This sophisticated floral is another masterpiece from the house of Jean-Marc Sinan. It boasts a classical pyramid structure that unfolds perfectly. No one note outshines the others; this scent is a lesson in balance. At first it feels very old school, with a sweet classic floral heart bound by green notes. As the notes open up, Lune comes alive in a beautiful symphony of dry Vetiver, Oakmoss, and tart Bergamot dancing with Lily of the Valley. As the perfume warms on the skin, a luxurious soapy quality of Aldehydes, Jasmine, & Roses comes alive. The Ylang-Ylang gives the heart a more languid note, which continues in the base.

Medium sillage with awesome longevity, it will be smelled by those close to you, as a scent of this sort should be. It would not translate well into bigger sillage if overapplied. This perfume is a wonderful example of how stellar quality ingredients in an iconic composition can be timeless. Anyone 100 years ago, or 100 years from now, would find this beautiful.

I was lucky enough to sample this in the Parfum concentration on skin at the Caron Boutique on Rue Francoise today. At first, amidst all the louder parfums, Narcisse Blanc was lost. Throughout the day, though, it bloomed and showed the same incredible longevity of its nighttime sister, Narcisse Noir. Ten hours later, it has outlived all the other Carobs and is going strong. Honestly, although I do enjoy N. Noir in various vintages and concentrations, it is a very particular scent and not always an easy wear. There is a certain overripe fruit that borders on "skank"- I believe this is the quality most others adore. I feel that N. Blanc has less of this quality and hence a more balanced composition. The jasmine is less indolic and the orange blossom, while still tenacious, is polite. The orange note persists throughout, but it is gingerly bolstered by the Rose and bass notes.

I was sad to hear from the SA that this is not a very popular fragrance, and to read rumors that it may be discontinued. Truly elegant, and very wearable. My only problem now is how to get back to the boutique to buy some!

I recently found at a Paris clear market a small bottle of the vintage Parfum, pale gold in color and in the old square bottle. This is in the grande dame of perfume category- balanced orange blossom, lots of carnation, and a nice spice note. Powdery and sweet, like the lilting of Hawthorn, but not overly so, and with excellent balance. The base is amber-vanillin atop a restrained wood, With no sand or sea notes, at least in the modern sense.

This is an excellent interpretation of "carnation". Seek out the vintage version!

This fragrance is an Air France exclusive release for October 2016. I was able to sample it thanks to the courteous flight attendant who then tracked down two bottles for me.

This scent is all about pipe tobacco- it opens a little sharp and tannic, like unheated tobacco. Quickly it becomes sweet and camphorus, like the hot red tobacco. The drydown is languid and sweet and brings to mind trails of smoke. The effect is fairly straightforward, without a lot of complicated structure or development. Hyperbole is a lovely and natural choice for an autumn fragrance, for either gender. Very enjoyable and comforting to wear.

A very sophisticated and early Fruity Floral, where the fruit feels juicy, ripe, and real, not synthetic or high pitched like most current scents of this genre. It reminds me somewhat of a less waxy and more floral ForEver by Jean Patou.

Nubiade opens with a cascade of sweet Stone Fruits, almost overripe Blackberry, and a tart Raspberry. The floral heart is restrained & dominated by Jasmine, Freesia, and later, Rose, to anchor the Fruits. I wish I found the stated Carnation; it would offer the depth and backbone that would become this fragrance.

The base is primarily Tonka & Vanilla. The Woods and Patchouli are very subdued. For this reason, and the sparsity of the Carnation, I consider this a Fruity Floral rather than a Floral Oriental.

A very pretty afternoon perfume.