HenrikBlau
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HenrikBlau
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Fruit and Roses or The Scratchy Mustache
Although I have already found a fall and winter perfume. But the already ordered samples of course still invite you to sniff and comment. And it's also just exciting to know what's going on in the fragrance universe. Thanks to Corona-conditionally strongly limited work and social life, I currently have a lot of time to test. And meanwhile also made closer acquaintance with the species "perfume Youtuber". There appeared currently on the various top lists again and again Rochas Moustache EdP. I do not need. But "having is better than needing." - so just ordered a bottling from the souk and tried. And indeed, not much has been written about this fragrance. Therefore, a hopefully helpful comment from me.
FLAKON
Have a bottling, so no comment and no rating on the bottle.
DURABILITY & SILLAGE
With 5 sprays, the fragrance lasts on my skin circa 6 hours. Immediately after spraying, the projection is strong, but 30-40 minutes later already limited to the close range. After 2 hours, the scent is almost close to the skin. So not particularly persistent or assertive. But appropriate for most occasions.
Fragrance or fragrance process
Immediately after spraying, a strong pink pepper note dominates. Woody, fruity, hardly spicy, a little strict. Quickly then clearly tangerine and rose join. The tangerine comes for me rather little sweet and without any effervescence. No sparkling or intense citrus freshness, as it rises to my nose when peeling one of these fruits. The rose note shows a natural, restrained pallor and is overall rather discreet and greenish-tinged staged, rather than overbearingly sultry or sweet. In the background, the base notes are already working pretty quickly and round off the rose-tangerine-pepper mix pleasantly woody-spicy-balsamic-sweet. Apart from the smell, Moustache also develops a very exciting and pleasant texture for my nose here (around minute 20-30): cuddly-tickly, almost fur-like. Much softer than a mustache, though. More like rabbit or cat fur. As it goes on, this subsides quite soon. The pink pepper slowly but surely disappears, it becomes overall woodier-spicier and a bit sweeter. Especially the cedar note now comes out clearly. After 2-3 hours, rose and tangerine also gradually wear off on my skin. After about 4 hours remains a vanillig-woody base with minimal floral residual spiciness.
APPLICATION
To my sensibilities, Moustache EdP is light and pleasing enough to function as a woody-floral-sweet evergreen (possible exceptions: sports and hot days). With its pronounced cedar note, the fragrance for me is more in line with "masculine" fragrance conventions, but in my opinion can be worn well by all. Rose fragrance was and is for me personally always very adult, fine and expensive / noble connotations. So perhaps rather nothing for teens or twens. All this but please do not see so narrow. Who likes it should wear it.
CONCLUSION
By far not a bad fragrance, but for me also not really convincing.
The combination of rose and tangerine I find very creative and unusual, but in this case also something to get used to. Phases, the two do not seem to me just fresh. Almost a little overripe or withered. Matter of taste.
A weak point of Moustache I personally see at the base or in the "dry-down". Here the fragrance gets unpleasant bitter-scratchy nuances. So now scratchy brush instead of cuddly kitty? The beloved agrees and adds, it also has something of "salty-sharp sea air". Well, true. I actually know this note from some "blue" fragrances (e.g. "Blue Seduction for Men"). After a little internet research, I suspect that the fragrance note in question comes from some (cheap?) synthetic cedar or woody scent. I would have liked that but something "rounder". But at the low price must be made of course unfortunately somewhere cutbacks.
Ultimately, overall rather "hmm" than "mmh". Am glad, despite online hype and low price not just blindly bought.
FLAKON
Have a bottling, so no comment and no rating on the bottle.
DURABILITY & SILLAGE
With 5 sprays, the fragrance lasts on my skin circa 6 hours. Immediately after spraying, the projection is strong, but 30-40 minutes later already limited to the close range. After 2 hours, the scent is almost close to the skin. So not particularly persistent or assertive. But appropriate for most occasions.
Fragrance or fragrance process
Immediately after spraying, a strong pink pepper note dominates. Woody, fruity, hardly spicy, a little strict. Quickly then clearly tangerine and rose join. The tangerine comes for me rather little sweet and without any effervescence. No sparkling or intense citrus freshness, as it rises to my nose when peeling one of these fruits. The rose note shows a natural, restrained pallor and is overall rather discreet and greenish-tinged staged, rather than overbearingly sultry or sweet. In the background, the base notes are already working pretty quickly and round off the rose-tangerine-pepper mix pleasantly woody-spicy-balsamic-sweet. Apart from the smell, Moustache also develops a very exciting and pleasant texture for my nose here (around minute 20-30): cuddly-tickly, almost fur-like. Much softer than a mustache, though. More like rabbit or cat fur. As it goes on, this subsides quite soon. The pink pepper slowly but surely disappears, it becomes overall woodier-spicier and a bit sweeter. Especially the cedar note now comes out clearly. After 2-3 hours, rose and tangerine also gradually wear off on my skin. After about 4 hours remains a vanillig-woody base with minimal floral residual spiciness.
APPLICATION
To my sensibilities, Moustache EdP is light and pleasing enough to function as a woody-floral-sweet evergreen (possible exceptions: sports and hot days). With its pronounced cedar note, the fragrance for me is more in line with "masculine" fragrance conventions, but in my opinion can be worn well by all. Rose fragrance was and is for me personally always very adult, fine and expensive / noble connotations. So perhaps rather nothing for teens or twens. All this but please do not see so narrow. Who likes it should wear it.
CONCLUSION
By far not a bad fragrance, but for me also not really convincing.
The combination of rose and tangerine I find very creative and unusual, but in this case also something to get used to. Phases, the two do not seem to me just fresh. Almost a little overripe or withered. Matter of taste.
A weak point of Moustache I personally see at the base or in the "dry-down". Here the fragrance gets unpleasant bitter-scratchy nuances. So now scratchy brush instead of cuddly kitty? The beloved agrees and adds, it also has something of "salty-sharp sea air". Well, true. I actually know this note from some "blue" fragrances (e.g. "Blue Seduction for Men"). After a little internet research, I suspect that the fragrance note in question comes from some (cheap?) synthetic cedar or woody scent. I would have liked that but something "rounder". But at the low price must be made of course unfortunately somewhere cutbacks.
Ultimately, overall rather "hmm" than "mmh". Am glad, despite online hype and low price not just blindly bought.
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The marzipan-cherry-almond from Guerlain - Scratchy skin, soft core
As a fragrance novice on a voyage of discovery into the mostly unknown realms of spicy-sweet autumn and winter fragrances, I have recently been making 1-2 stops a week at the turquoise shop to scent my wrists out of pure curiosity. Anything only halfway interesting is first of all bought as bottling in the souk (thanks, thanks to all of you for this great opportunity!) and tested for a few days. Among them Guerlains L'Homme Idéal Extrême. When I first became aware of this brand or fragrance series, I noticed the EdP version in the Parfumo-Top-100 (men's fragrances). I did not know it yet. But because of the good ratings and promising reviews (I read about a high-quality cherry note and a mass-suited designer scent but in a noble and niche character) I simply ordered a sample
FLAKON
Just got a bottle from the souk. Therefore no comment and no rating for the bottle.
DURABILITY & SILLAGE
In everyday life I get by with three or four sprayers for a good 7 hours. On cosy days the fragrance lasts up to 10 hours. In the first 45-60 minutes after spraying, the scent projects very strongly on my skin, almost filling the room. But then it withdraws very quickly into the close range and after 2 to 3 hours it can only be perceived almost skin-tight.
STEAM or STEAM RUN
L'Homme Idéal EdP opens sparkling and lively with creamy bergamot, dry-coumarin notes and fruity powdery-sugary sweetness. Herbaceous-spicy notes and something slightly pungent, which I would most likely define as lavender (reminds me a bit of dried tarragon?). In the background, a subtle vanilla warmth comes through. I find it rather difficult to isolate individual notes or ingredients with this fragrance. The characteristic almond is a bit hidden but still unmistakably marzipan-like. After a short time I notice bitter almond oil or benzaldehyde (also known as cherry flavour) - besides almonds and (powdered) sugar a typical ingredient for marzipan. To round off the taste, marzipan is often mixed with a little rose water. And so it is only logical that after 15-20 minutes a fruity-honey rose note rises to my nose, making the previously rather dry fragrance beautifully full-bodied and round. At the latest now it goes unmistakably into squeaky-sweet gourmand terrain. I smell mainly juicy and powdery-sweet marzipan, but I can't help thinking of red wine gum (somewhere between English wine gum and these Haribo cherries). In the next 1-2 hours, more prominent vanilla and a little incense gradually steer the fragrance in a different direction. Namely in that of a sweet-smoky-scratchy tobacco or leather accord. The marzipan and cherry-like notes weaken, but remain present. There are also dry-coumarin, herbaceous-spicy or slightly tart nuances which I cannot classify with any certainty. A connection to vanilla bean or tonka bean seems obvious to me, but I cannot explain it further. Further associations are benzoin, balsam, coumarin/ hay, dried herbs, camphor, lavender. Because of this slightly "greenish" touch, I am thinking more of pipe tobacco than leather. But this scratchiness is gradually disappearing, while sandalwood and vanilla round off the warm and spicy scent
APPLICATION
I would classify L'Homme Idéal edp as a spicy fruity-sweet day and evening fragrance for the cooler months. Suitable both for leisure and for a more informal working environment. For all its gourmand playfulness, I find it altogether very mature, so that I see it more on people over 30 and in at least "casual-chic" wardrobe than on people in their mid-twenties with hoodies and running shoes. But everyone as he thinks.
CONCLUSION
I don't know the scent DNA of L'Homme Idéal EdP from any other perfume. Whether this alone justifies a predicate like "niche quality", I don't know. At least this scent is interesting. That's why it has potential to attract attention - through its individual character, not through volume. Whether it then not only attracts attention but also attracts attention is of course another question.
I'm torn. I really like the rich marzipan chord with a honey cherry rose touch. As well as the spicy-soft end of the fragrance. In between, however, the fragrance is often a bit too restless for me. The herbaceous-arsh notes and the scratchy incense (dis-)destroy the otherwise successful gourmand overall picture, instead of fitting in. I also find the occasional association with sticky artificial Haribo cherries rather unpleasant. Concerning these negative points it should be said that they are mainly noticeable from close up when I virtually flatten my nose on the scent. In the silage of the fragrance they are less important. Despite their seductive-sweet appeal, I don't like to bite into Guerlain's marzipan-cherry-almond in the end.
FLAKON
Just got a bottle from the souk. Therefore no comment and no rating for the bottle.
DURABILITY & SILLAGE
In everyday life I get by with three or four sprayers for a good 7 hours. On cosy days the fragrance lasts up to 10 hours. In the first 45-60 minutes after spraying, the scent projects very strongly on my skin, almost filling the room. But then it withdraws very quickly into the close range and after 2 to 3 hours it can only be perceived almost skin-tight.
STEAM or STEAM RUN
L'Homme Idéal EdP opens sparkling and lively with creamy bergamot, dry-coumarin notes and fruity powdery-sugary sweetness. Herbaceous-spicy notes and something slightly pungent, which I would most likely define as lavender (reminds me a bit of dried tarragon?). In the background, a subtle vanilla warmth comes through. I find it rather difficult to isolate individual notes or ingredients with this fragrance. The characteristic almond is a bit hidden but still unmistakably marzipan-like. After a short time I notice bitter almond oil or benzaldehyde (also known as cherry flavour) - besides almonds and (powdered) sugar a typical ingredient for marzipan. To round off the taste, marzipan is often mixed with a little rose water. And so it is only logical that after 15-20 minutes a fruity-honey rose note rises to my nose, making the previously rather dry fragrance beautifully full-bodied and round. At the latest now it goes unmistakably into squeaky-sweet gourmand terrain. I smell mainly juicy and powdery-sweet marzipan, but I can't help thinking of red wine gum (somewhere between English wine gum and these Haribo cherries). In the next 1-2 hours, more prominent vanilla and a little incense gradually steer the fragrance in a different direction. Namely in that of a sweet-smoky-scratchy tobacco or leather accord. The marzipan and cherry-like notes weaken, but remain present. There are also dry-coumarin, herbaceous-spicy or slightly tart nuances which I cannot classify with any certainty. A connection to vanilla bean or tonka bean seems obvious to me, but I cannot explain it further. Further associations are benzoin, balsam, coumarin/ hay, dried herbs, camphor, lavender. Because of this slightly "greenish" touch, I am thinking more of pipe tobacco than leather. But this scratchiness is gradually disappearing, while sandalwood and vanilla round off the warm and spicy scent
APPLICATION
I would classify L'Homme Idéal edp as a spicy fruity-sweet day and evening fragrance for the cooler months. Suitable both for leisure and for a more informal working environment. For all its gourmand playfulness, I find it altogether very mature, so that I see it more on people over 30 and in at least "casual-chic" wardrobe than on people in their mid-twenties with hoodies and running shoes. But everyone as he thinks.
CONCLUSION
I don't know the scent DNA of L'Homme Idéal EdP from any other perfume. Whether this alone justifies a predicate like "niche quality", I don't know. At least this scent is interesting. That's why it has potential to attract attention - through its individual character, not through volume. Whether it then not only attracts attention but also attracts attention is of course another question.
I'm torn. I really like the rich marzipan chord with a honey cherry rose touch. As well as the spicy-soft end of the fragrance. In between, however, the fragrance is often a bit too restless for me. The herbaceous-arsh notes and the scratchy incense (dis-)destroy the otherwise successful gourmand overall picture, instead of fitting in. I also find the occasional association with sticky artificial Haribo cherries rather unpleasant. Concerning these negative points it should be said that they are mainly noticeable from close up when I virtually flatten my nose on the scent. In the silage of the fragrance they are less important. Despite their seductive-sweet appeal, I don't like to bite into Guerlain's marzipan-cherry-almond in the end.
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Ok Havane or winter looks different in Cuba
On my voyage of discovery into the world of autumn and winter fragrances, I have, among other things, enjoyed a bottling of Mugler's Pure Havane. Especially because I was simply curious about the genre of (sweet) tobacco fragrances, which is still relatively unknown to me, and because it is a very well rated representative of its genre (since a long time in the perfumo top 30 of men's fragrances). But also because at the time of the order (already a few weeks ago) two perfumes were listed among the fragrance twins, which I like very much: Herod (Parfums de Marly) and L'Homme Idéal Extrême (Guerlain). The 5ml are used up and the impressions demand a detailed and hopefully helpful comment.
FLAKON
As I said, I have a souk bottling, therefore no comment and no rating on the bottle. Strangely enough, I haven't seen the flacon anywhere in the store yet
DURABILITY & SILLAGE
With 4-5 sprayers I am surrounded for the first 30-60 minutes by a fragrance cloud that is a little more than arm-long or wide. Then the Sillage goes down to a foot length to shoulder width and becomes skin-tight after 3-4 hours. The effective shelf life of 8-10 hours should be sufficient for most purposes. A few hours later the last remains of the scent are gone.
STEAM or STEAM RUN
Pure Havane starts mainly hay-like dry and flowery-fresh, with a lot of sugar-honey sweetness and a little tobacco leaf. This is accompanied by a bitterish-bitter note, which can be added to the honey accord or perceived separately as a cocoa note. In any case, the honey note is rather light, sugary-sweet and a bit flowery. For honey maybe a little "thin". Reminds me more of sugar syrup. The tobacco note becomes more prominent in the next few minutes, accompanied by balsamic and cedar-like notes and a little vanillin. With a little imagination I can also detect a hint of earthy patchouli. This gives the fragrance a little tingling spice and a little warmth. I smell the wood of the cigar box. Or a wooden barrel with slightly pungent, slightly exaggeratedly flowery and spicy rum? Be that as it may, the development of the scent would then be complete after 10-15 minutes. This is how Pure Havane should be and this is how it will stay. You can call it shallow and boring. Or more benevolent: minimalistic and reliable.
(I only get the cherry note in the opening performed by some reviewers on paper or clothes)
APPLICATION
Pure Havane is a very pleasing (gourmand) spicy-sweet tobacco scent for mild to cooler (but not cold) days and evenings. It goes well with leisure time or informal evening occasions and is certainly better with a jacket or shirt than with sweaters and jogging pants. Leather jacket would also work very well. The fragrance is relatively inexpensive and follows the gourmand-sweet trend of recent years. Therefore, in my opinion it fits best to younger people (let's say u40). But I wouldn't advise older people against it. Do what you think.
CONCLUSION
Phew, tough. I was looking for a spicy-sweet fall and winter scent. Personally, I find Pure Havane far too light for that. Especially at the base, a little more spice, warmth and fullness would be good for this rather narrow tobacco scent to counter cold temperatures. Or maybe something smoky to stay closer to the honey-cigar theme. On the other hand Pure Havane is perhaps not such a winter scent at all? If I ignore classification and the scent pyramid for a moment, I can read the scents differently: Behind the "honey" there is cocoa and sugar (syrup). The slightly flowery tobacco leaf remains. Maybe it is also a cigar flavoured with honey. From wood, balsam, flowery notes and sugar sweetness becomes an old rum. This creates a spicy, light and somewhat synthetic Cuba atmosphere, which does full justice to the name "Pure Havane" and in my opinion goes much better with mojito than with mulled wine. So maybe rather something for spring or autumn. Or even for cool summer evenings or the mild nights of the Cuban winter? It remains to be tested whether the scent might not be too sweet for that. Either way, Pure Havane is a good fragrance, but somehow it seems to me to be sitting between too many chairs: interesting but shallow, heavy but light, winter-summery. Preliminary verdict therefore "only": Okay
PS -
Keyword "Top 30 men's fragrances":
Can I really only find such a top-rated fragrance ok? Not even bad, but really just ok? Yeah, sure. After all, a scent is a highly subjective thing. It is possible that Pure Havane is currently still benefiting greatly from the good reputation and good ratings of its older formulations. In relevant internet forums the older Pure Havane is often said to have better performance and more depth compared to the current version. Also some of the newer positive reviews here explicitly deal with older or "vintage" formulations of Pure Havane. But maybe the changes are not as serious as they are partly presented.
Keyword "Scent twins":
- PdM Herod? No. Herod opulent, warm, fruity, floral, sweet, extroverted, with a strong vanilla base. Pure Havane in direct comparison quiet, limp, almost anaemic. Completely rightly Herod is meanwhile removed from the list of twins.
- Guerlain L'HIE? More likely no. Both with tobacco and honey-like sweetness. But despite all the similarity, L'HIE is clearly different from the slimmer Pure Havane, with notes of almond/Amaretto, dark cherry, cinnamon and leather.
FLAKON
As I said, I have a souk bottling, therefore no comment and no rating on the bottle. Strangely enough, I haven't seen the flacon anywhere in the store yet
DURABILITY & SILLAGE
With 4-5 sprayers I am surrounded for the first 30-60 minutes by a fragrance cloud that is a little more than arm-long or wide. Then the Sillage goes down to a foot length to shoulder width and becomes skin-tight after 3-4 hours. The effective shelf life of 8-10 hours should be sufficient for most purposes. A few hours later the last remains of the scent are gone.
STEAM or STEAM RUN
Pure Havane starts mainly hay-like dry and flowery-fresh, with a lot of sugar-honey sweetness and a little tobacco leaf. This is accompanied by a bitterish-bitter note, which can be added to the honey accord or perceived separately as a cocoa note. In any case, the honey note is rather light, sugary-sweet and a bit flowery. For honey maybe a little "thin". Reminds me more of sugar syrup. The tobacco note becomes more prominent in the next few minutes, accompanied by balsamic and cedar-like notes and a little vanillin. With a little imagination I can also detect a hint of earthy patchouli. This gives the fragrance a little tingling spice and a little warmth. I smell the wood of the cigar box. Or a wooden barrel with slightly pungent, slightly exaggeratedly flowery and spicy rum? Be that as it may, the development of the scent would then be complete after 10-15 minutes. This is how Pure Havane should be and this is how it will stay. You can call it shallow and boring. Or more benevolent: minimalistic and reliable.
(I only get the cherry note in the opening performed by some reviewers on paper or clothes)
APPLICATION
Pure Havane is a very pleasing (gourmand) spicy-sweet tobacco scent for mild to cooler (but not cold) days and evenings. It goes well with leisure time or informal evening occasions and is certainly better with a jacket or shirt than with sweaters and jogging pants. Leather jacket would also work very well. The fragrance is relatively inexpensive and follows the gourmand-sweet trend of recent years. Therefore, in my opinion it fits best to younger people (let's say u40). But I wouldn't advise older people against it. Do what you think.
CONCLUSION
Phew, tough. I was looking for a spicy-sweet fall and winter scent. Personally, I find Pure Havane far too light for that. Especially at the base, a little more spice, warmth and fullness would be good for this rather narrow tobacco scent to counter cold temperatures. Or maybe something smoky to stay closer to the honey-cigar theme. On the other hand Pure Havane is perhaps not such a winter scent at all? If I ignore classification and the scent pyramid for a moment, I can read the scents differently: Behind the "honey" there is cocoa and sugar (syrup). The slightly flowery tobacco leaf remains. Maybe it is also a cigar flavoured with honey. From wood, balsam, flowery notes and sugar sweetness becomes an old rum. This creates a spicy, light and somewhat synthetic Cuba atmosphere, which does full justice to the name "Pure Havane" and in my opinion goes much better with mojito than with mulled wine. So maybe rather something for spring or autumn. Or even for cool summer evenings or the mild nights of the Cuban winter? It remains to be tested whether the scent might not be too sweet for that. Either way, Pure Havane is a good fragrance, but somehow it seems to me to be sitting between too many chairs: interesting but shallow, heavy but light, winter-summery. Preliminary verdict therefore "only": Okay
PS -
Keyword "Top 30 men's fragrances":
Can I really only find such a top-rated fragrance ok? Not even bad, but really just ok? Yeah, sure. After all, a scent is a highly subjective thing. It is possible that Pure Havane is currently still benefiting greatly from the good reputation and good ratings of its older formulations. In relevant internet forums the older Pure Havane is often said to have better performance and more depth compared to the current version. Also some of the newer positive reviews here explicitly deal with older or "vintage" formulations of Pure Havane. But maybe the changes are not as serious as they are partly presented.
Keyword "Scent twins":
- PdM Herod? No. Herod opulent, warm, fruity, floral, sweet, extroverted, with a strong vanilla base. Pure Havane in direct comparison quiet, limp, almost anaemic. Completely rightly Herod is meanwhile removed from the list of twins.
- Guerlain L'HIE? More likely no. Both with tobacco and honey-like sweetness. But despite all the similarity, L'HIE is clearly different from the slimmer Pure Havane, with notes of almond/Amaretto, dark cherry, cinnamon and leather.
3 Comments
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Burnt almonds or the late effects of a catholic childhood
Whenever I passed by the turquoise shop in the city centre in the last weeks I went in and scented both wrists with autumn and winter water. This gentleman also fell into my hands. He made a very sympathetic first impression, so I got a bottling and tried it a few days with him. Here the result.
Flacon
I'm just a bottler, that's why I'm not rated. In the turquoise shop, the bottle made a valuable impression, especially the rather generously proportioning and very rich sounding spray head. The thick heavy bottom and the opaque black glass make it difficult to estimate the fill level
Durability and Sillage
With three sprayers on the neck and nape of the neck, the sillage is neat to powerful after application. Especially in warm surroundings (i.e. indoors) the scent projects long and strongly before it recedes into the close range (but not skin-tight) after 2-3 hours. The durability is very strong. Over 24 hours after spraying on I can still perceive iris, vanilla, balsam, smoke and patch at close range.
Fragrance or fragrance progression
The top note directly inspires me with a lively lavender note, which immediately recedes after a short but strong solo appearance and harmonizes wonderfully softly with dry powdery iris, fresh pepper and a light vanilla sweetness. Soon lavender and pepper weaken somewhat and are replaced by strong smoky-balsamic notes, which dominate the fragrance over the next few hours. This is accompanied by a clear, yet playful-light, almost icing sugar-like, vanilla sweetness. Unfortunately, these two "scents" are a bit too suddenly next to each other for my taste, instead of forming a round whole. This gentleman has corners and edges. Not least due to the appearance of a very distinguished patchouli, the fragrance now becomes increasingly softer, darker, drier and sweeter. Occasionally I think I can still detect remnants of pepper.
Conclusion
In comparison to related iris scents (I only know Valentino Uomo Intense), the incense-powdery-sweet gentleman doesn't look makeup-y or loud and exhilarated to me, but rather noble and serene. Very good-looking, but not directly sexy. A roughneck in a tuxedo.
A little joke at the end:
Those who are looking for a good, very close gourman should in any case apply Givenchy Gentleman edp very generously and then wait 24-36 hours. Remains of powdery iris and smoky-sweet vanilla/benzoin notes then create a first-class chord of still warm, freshly roasted almonds!
Personally, I have a very poor perception of incense and similar notes in perfumes, or rather fade them out very quickly (possibly late effects of a Catholic childhood). Therefore I have enlisted the help of my partner for this comment. After a short time, I am able to enjoy the powdery-sugary roasted almonds :P I want to apply more and more of them. Meanwhile, my partner's eyes are already watering from all the incense or Tolu balsam. A dangerous scent! br />
Flacon
I'm just a bottler, that's why I'm not rated. In the turquoise shop, the bottle made a valuable impression, especially the rather generously proportioning and very rich sounding spray head. The thick heavy bottom and the opaque black glass make it difficult to estimate the fill level
Durability and Sillage
With three sprayers on the neck and nape of the neck, the sillage is neat to powerful after application. Especially in warm surroundings (i.e. indoors) the scent projects long and strongly before it recedes into the close range (but not skin-tight) after 2-3 hours. The durability is very strong. Over 24 hours after spraying on I can still perceive iris, vanilla, balsam, smoke and patch at close range.
Fragrance or fragrance progression
The top note directly inspires me with a lively lavender note, which immediately recedes after a short but strong solo appearance and harmonizes wonderfully softly with dry powdery iris, fresh pepper and a light vanilla sweetness. Soon lavender and pepper weaken somewhat and are replaced by strong smoky-balsamic notes, which dominate the fragrance over the next few hours. This is accompanied by a clear, yet playful-light, almost icing sugar-like, vanilla sweetness. Unfortunately, these two "scents" are a bit too suddenly next to each other for my taste, instead of forming a round whole. This gentleman has corners and edges. Not least due to the appearance of a very distinguished patchouli, the fragrance now becomes increasingly softer, darker, drier and sweeter. Occasionally I think I can still detect remnants of pepper.
Conclusion
In comparison to related iris scents (I only know Valentino Uomo Intense), the incense-powdery-sweet gentleman doesn't look makeup-y or loud and exhilarated to me, but rather noble and serene. Very good-looking, but not directly sexy. A roughneck in a tuxedo.
A little joke at the end:
Those who are looking for a good, very close gourman should in any case apply Givenchy Gentleman edp very generously and then wait 24-36 hours. Remains of powdery iris and smoky-sweet vanilla/benzoin notes then create a first-class chord of still warm, freshly roasted almonds!
Personally, I have a very poor perception of incense and similar notes in perfumes, or rather fade them out very quickly (possibly late effects of a Catholic childhood). Therefore I have enlisted the help of my partner for this comment. After a short time, I am able to enjoy the powdery-sugary roasted almonds :P I want to apply more and more of them. Meanwhile, my partner's eyes are already watering from all the incense or Tolu balsam. A dangerous scent! br />
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Y - The little brother of the big blue?
First of all: This comment is part of my personal research project "(Summer) Immergeher 2020", in which I test and comment some possible alternatives to my current standard fragrance "Bleu de Chanel (edt)". For more information and links to further fragrance comments from me, please visit my profile or my blog (https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/HenrikBlau/Blog/Eintrag/projekt-sommer-dumb-grab-2020). But now to the matter.
Flacon
Simple and chic. Relatively thick glass with colour gradient from clear to dark blue/ black-blue. The black click fastener is made of plastic, has a non-slip surface and fits snugly. The atomizer produces a fine, even spray and releases the contents of the bottle in rather generous amounts. Solid.
Durability and Sillage
Spraying three times on neck and neck gives me a slightly over arm-length sillage. In closed rooms Y is present, but not room filling or obtrusive. After 3-4 hours the radiance gradually fades and the fragrance recedes to shoulder width. After about 6 hours it is slowly exhausted, but remains perceptible up close for some time.
Fragrance or fragrance progression
In the opening rather synthetic and incredibly (!) fresh. Sparkling sweet notes of green apple and citrus fruits widen my nostrils and make my mouth water. Does a slight ginger pungency tingling in my nose? ... hm, could be anything citric. In the first 30-60 minutes the sweetness decreases significantly, but without disappearing. Instead, fresh and tart notes appear, which combine with the fruity-sweet notes to create interesting impressions. I think of fresh orange peel, rose petals, tonic water/ gin and tonic. Without a doubt something green comes into play here. As sage and/or juniper, however, I cannot clearly identify it. Slowly but surely incense and a little wood are also coming through. After about 2 hours the fragrance has finished its development and remains synthetic green-blue-fresh-tart with a little fruit sweetness and woody-smokey undertones. I can only recognize the tonka bean listed in the pyramid when the other notes have almost completely disappeared (which can take 12 hours or more)
Conclusion
Yves Saint Lauren Y (edp) is a real blue one: fresh, clean, friendly, unobtrusive. But with an interesting fruity green twist, which makes him look a good bit younger than other representatives of his profession, without ever being childish. Fits to almost all occasions and times of day/seasons. Possible exceptions: Very fancy dinner dates (too young), romantic dinner dates (too fresh), winter (too "cool"). The basic DNA of Y actually reminds me strongly of the "big blue": Bleu de Chanel (edt). Citrus, incense, wood. But there are clear differences: Y performed a bit stronger and is definitely sweeter and fresher than BdC. The latter is a bit more reserved and especially in the base much softer, spicier and warmer. In the summer of 2020 I have never worn another fragrance as often and as much as YSL Y (edp).
Flacon
Simple and chic. Relatively thick glass with colour gradient from clear to dark blue/ black-blue. The black click fastener is made of plastic, has a non-slip surface and fits snugly. The atomizer produces a fine, even spray and releases the contents of the bottle in rather generous amounts. Solid.
Durability and Sillage
Spraying three times on neck and neck gives me a slightly over arm-length sillage. In closed rooms Y is present, but not room filling or obtrusive. After 3-4 hours the radiance gradually fades and the fragrance recedes to shoulder width. After about 6 hours it is slowly exhausted, but remains perceptible up close for some time.
Fragrance or fragrance progression
In the opening rather synthetic and incredibly (!) fresh. Sparkling sweet notes of green apple and citrus fruits widen my nostrils and make my mouth water. Does a slight ginger pungency tingling in my nose? ... hm, could be anything citric. In the first 30-60 minutes the sweetness decreases significantly, but without disappearing. Instead, fresh and tart notes appear, which combine with the fruity-sweet notes to create interesting impressions. I think of fresh orange peel, rose petals, tonic water/ gin and tonic. Without a doubt something green comes into play here. As sage and/or juniper, however, I cannot clearly identify it. Slowly but surely incense and a little wood are also coming through. After about 2 hours the fragrance has finished its development and remains synthetic green-blue-fresh-tart with a little fruit sweetness and woody-smokey undertones. I can only recognize the tonka bean listed in the pyramid when the other notes have almost completely disappeared (which can take 12 hours or more)
Conclusion
Yves Saint Lauren Y (edp) is a real blue one: fresh, clean, friendly, unobtrusive. But with an interesting fruity green twist, which makes him look a good bit younger than other representatives of his profession, without ever being childish. Fits to almost all occasions and times of day/seasons. Possible exceptions: Very fancy dinner dates (too young), romantic dinner dates (too fresh), winter (too "cool"). The basic DNA of Y actually reminds me strongly of the "big blue": Bleu de Chanel (edt). Citrus, incense, wood. But there are clear differences: Y performed a bit stronger and is definitely sweeter and fresher than BdC. The latter is a bit more reserved and especially in the base much softer, spicier and warmer. In the summer of 2020 I have never worn another fragrance as often and as much as YSL Y (edp).
