Hilli

I first came into contact with Guerlain's men's fragrances as a teenager in the mid-1990s. Heritage and Vetiver were my favourites at the time, but for me as a teenager at the time, I simply found Gucci Envy more fitting, although perhaps somewhat unusual - at least in the East Frisian province. In 2000 I found out that Vetiver had not only got a new bottle, but also smelled differently. The warmth of its predecessor had given way to a sharp icy cold that had already appeared in the iced glass of the new bottle and over which the rest of the fragrance could not comfort. I tried again and again without success to make friends with the new Vetiver until about 2012 when the perfume of my then boss filled our suit department and he told me that the fragrance was Guerlains Vetiver. In neighbouring Douglas, I was able to see that not only had the bottle changed again, but the heat had also returned. My memories of the nineties vetiver are no longer very detailed, but I have the feeling that the reformulation comes very close to it. For years, Guerlain's Vetiver has been my "Fiber Walker" and my signature scent alongside Equipage and Gomma

Today, contrary to my principles, I took the risk of blind buying and found that it can be worth breaking principles: I have found Miller Harris interesting for a long time, but due to the lack of local sources of supply (I live in Munich!), I could only test a few of the fragrances. Since vetiver scents usually work quite well for me, I took the opportunity today to get my first fragrance from Miller Harris. Since I regard fragrances as a total work of art, I think it is nice when the bottle, packaging and name correspond to my taste. The simple, elegant packaging and flacons with stylized flower and plant illustrations by Miller Harris appeal to me very much. The name "Vetiver Insolent", on the other hand, leaves me somewhat at a loss: What is said to be cheeky about this vetiver is not at all obvious to me. On the contrary: The vetiver has a wonderful buttery and nutty softness, as I have already smelled on Givenchys Vetyver. The only cheeky thing is the cardamom that flashes out again and again and sticks out your tongue when you don't look. But this impudence is definitely of the sympathetic kind. I also think I can smell a hint of anise and fennel, which is why the scent reminds me of liquorice, but definitely not one of the gourmand kind. It is these spices that remind me of the great Yohji Homme, who unfortunately was only granted a short existence. I'm curious how Vetiver Insolent will prove itself in everyday life, but my first impression makes me very optimistic

A few years ago I bought Theseus from Lorenzo Villoresi in Florence and the first time I regretted not having tested a fragrance long enough. The start is wonderful, but the drydown inevitably reminds me of Jil Sander Sun Men, probably the only perfume in the world that makes me sick. Fragrances whose names are based on antiquity, I find basically interesting and only very rarely am I disappointed. This is unfortunately the case with Theseus, even though I wish I would like him. Theseus is more complex, more elaborate and of higher quality than Jil Sander's cheap water for adolescents, which unfortunately cannot comfort me over the olfactory relationship. At first I found a grateful customer for the almost full bottle, but now it's annoyed by the same scent. After the Theseus disappointment I stocked up with Villoresis Piper Nigrum and Spezie, who I had on the radar for years and could make my peace with Villoresi

In the early 2000s I discovered this masterpiece either in the Ostendorf perfumery, unfortunately closed in 2017, or in the Pieper perfumery in Münster. Yes, Gomma is definitely reminiscent of rubber and a car repair shop, but one that specialises in the maintenance and care of valuable vintage cars. Besides the rubber, you can smell the high-quality leather of car seats, probably that of a convertible, whose scent has been reduced to a pleasant discreetness over the course of many years. Class, high quality and a subtle depth distinguish Gomma. Gomma is one of my all-rounders. Not for midsummer, but excellent for all other seasons. According to Etro's fragrance philosophy, Gomma is said to have a strengthening effect. Although this philosophy may be more the result of marketing than scientific studies, I always like to use this fragrance when I know that I have an appointment with a demanding customer. At least he hasn't hurt yet