HugoMontezHugoMontez's Perfume Reviews

1 - 5 of 40
HugoMontez 4 days ago 3
9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

Italian man in the 90's
Dolce & Gabbana, a brand that doesn't have many great fragrances, in fact, i guess this is their best (talking about the masculine ones).

A concoction of citruses, lavender, sage and woods. A simple eau de cologne mixed with a fougère style. Max Gavarry, the perfumer behind this fragrance, managed to create something with a cool water base and brighten it up with an Italian sexy vibe. It has a soapy quality, from the fougère structure and it's very alluring all the way. A typical 90's masculine but with this sexy citruses from a Italian eau de cologne.

The citruses aren't the most natural ones but, for some reason, they work perfectly here with the herbs de provence and the light wood/tonka base. Nothing is sharp here. A pretty smooth fougère that has also a soft tobacco leaf note in the base to blend everything together. Is probably the least perceptive note but it's the one that helps this composition not being boring and has this sexy masculine aura.

Unfortunately, D&G left EuroItalia in late 90's to joined P&G and later, Coty (everything from that era is very forgettable, to be honest) and the version of this classic is also completely different. Much sharper with less quality materials. Recently, the brand joined Shiseido group and they came out with slightly more interesting fragrances but i didn't tried the Pour Homme version yet. I hope the quality was increased as I consider Shiseido as a good brand/group.

But for now, I suggest you to find a EuroItalia version if you want to experience this fragrance in full HD Stereo.
The longevity is also better in this version (+8h) and the sillage is also stronger.
Overall, a great fougeres with some unique qualities.

4/5

HugoMontez 15 days ago 4
9
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle

Summer love
One of my first "hidden gems" that i came across when I started my journey years ago was this fragrance. A masterful composition by one of my favorites Perfumers, mister Jean-Claude Ellena.

He arrived at Hermès in 2003, and the first fragrance that he created was this one. This is probably one of my favorite spring/summer fragrances and even after these years and hundreds of fragrances tested, this is still a staple and a must have in my collection. My girlfriend steal it sometimes, cause she loves it too.

So what it smells like? Basically, a fresh, green, Mediterranean breeze in a summer afternoon. It starts off with a tomato steam accord. Very bitter, green but, still, with juicy and fruity elements. There's a cypress note that helps accentuate the green aspect and some nuttiness that camera from nowhere. Some would say pistachio, but i don't smell that.

Above this, and as the perfume develope, the fig tree and the leafs came to play and make this even more summery and refreshing. A true Mediterranean feel.

I live in a place where Fig trees can easily be found and i also a big fan of the smell and the fruit itself. This, although not the perfect reinterpretation of the Fig theme, it's definitely in the top 10 and, as a fresh-green scent, is probably one of the best. I love all the facets. The green cypress and fig leafs, the nuttiness, the refreshing tomato steam accord, the overall summer afternoon feel. A very good company on a summer afternoon walk after beach.

If you don't know this fragrance and love fig trees and wish for summer holidays in Italy, test this one out. Grab your sunglasses, put on your favorite flip-flops, a tripped t-shirt and some shorts, close your eyes and enjoy the Mediterranean breeze that this fragrance creates in the air.

Just a sidenote, the performance is not the greatest but it's decent. 5-6h with good projection in the first hour.

4/5

PS: I would give it a 5* rating but we have to be honest, objetive and unbiased. A very recommended one and my favorite from the line, with Un Jardin Sur Le Nil being a very close second.
2 Replies

HugoMontez 16 days ago 4
7.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

A woody spicy gem!
Mauboussin is not a prestigious house, fragrance wise. But this Alberto Morillas creation, in the early 2000's is an exception of a good woody spicy scent.

Morillas, at that point, was already a all-star perfumer. Xeryus, Tommy Cologne, CKOne, ADG, Pi, 212, M7.... the list was extensive. This, albeit not as good as the previous ones mentioned, is a really decent, creative and good value fragrance.

It's almost a fougère, due to the lavender and sage combo, but, it goes to a more woody and spicy territory with lots of cinnamon and a play-doh aftertaste. That weird powdery/dough accord is made, somehow, with sage, cinnamon and patchouli. The result is a very interesting take on a woody-spicy, with slightly sweet elements and herbal compounds. Closer to something like Heritage but less rich and full.

It starts off a bit herbal (sage+lavender) and warm spicy (cinnamon), then the play-doh effect appears and lately, after 2-3h, it settles down to a light patchouli with vanilla and cinnamon combo.

Again, not the greatest woody spicy around but very under the radar. I have the vintage EDT, with the build in sprayer (you have to turn to spray), and i find it very fun to wear during autumn. The bottle it's really cool and i like the sprayer mechanism.

The longevity is good (around 8-10h) with a good bubble in the first hour-hour and a half. For the price, i can easily recommend, specially, if you like woody spicy fragrances, or just if you like to collect inexpensive gems like I do.

3/5

HugoMontez 17 days ago 4
7.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

Vanillic suede.
I'm a big fan of the original masterpiece Fahrenheit, launched in 1988. An ozonic yet gassiest violet leaf with mandarin and Nutmeg on top and a leathery base.

This version, created my Demachy, is a gourmand interpretation of the violet leaf theme. A boozy vanilla that, on top, is very sensual, fresh, ozonic and sweet, but, as it dries down, it become more creamy, static, vanilla driven and with an suede aftertaste.

It's very appealing and more easy to reach than the OG but more boring, specially in the drydown. The performance is pretty good (+8h easily) and the projection is quite potent in the first 2h.

I only wear it in fall-winter time, during night, in casual and night out scenarios. I like it but I prefer the mutlifaceted eau de toilette. The opening is great and the vanilla-rum-violet leaf combo is very niche-like, a concept that is pretty much on pair with many other niche scents, but after 2h, the smell became a tamed, suede-like vanilla that fails to convince, despite being different and unique in a way.

Overall, a good exercise on the violet leaf theme and the gourmand needs in perfumary nowadays but nothing to celebrate or to be remembered afterwards.

The EDT will stand still as a masterpiece and the one to go.

3/5
1 Reply

HugoMontez 18 days ago 4
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
7
Sillage
7
Bottle

The Modern Man
I like it. Is fresh, citrusy, a little bit smoky, metallic, slightly sweet and very masculine.

Dior has some of the best and most iconic fragrances. Iris (Dior homme), aromatic citrus (Eau Sauvage), violet leaf (Fahrenheit), Fig (Dune for men), etc ... Sauvage brings the metallic-amber compound (ambroxan) and a juicy Bergamot to offer a very fresh, modern and long lasting experience.

I saw many hate when it was released and for the simple fact that it smells boring, screechy and not interesting. But the fact is that 6 years later, is one of the best sellers and a very influential fragrance. An iconic one, like it or not. Like Fahrenheit is. Or even 1 million. Fragrances that not everybody love but they defined a style, a wave of new fragrances, a status quo.

Sauvage inspired many others but it still the best combination of metallic and fresh citrus. The Elixir is also great but in a different way. Many will compare it to Bleu de Chanel but i don't find them similar in many aspects. While Bleu is more a traditional woody aromatic with an ambery base, Sauvage is more citrusy with a weird metallic ambroxan note.

If you want a modern masculine, with good quality and mass appeal, go for it. Don't be affeaid to buy a best seller. It's really decent and i recommend it for a signature scent or just to grab and go. Never fails and lasts +8h.

Fahrenheit, Eau Sauvage and Dior Homme are legends in Dior's lineup, and although this is not a masterpiece, is still a staple.

4/5

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