HugoMontezHugoMontez's Perfume Reviews

1 - 5 of 21
HugoMontez 19 hours ago 2
8
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
7
Bottle

A Chanel that doesn't smell like Chanel
Chanel is well known for his historic nº5 and for great classy and classic fragrances.
Unfortunately, the Olivier Polge era isn't going well and his father's last creations aren't truly classics either.

Bleu de Chanel or Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme aren't great releases although are the ones that youtubers and young noses know and praise a lot. That's because of this diabetic disease around perfumery. Since late 90's, the fragrance industry started to put out some sweet creations in the masculine lineup. GIvenchy's Pi, JPG Le Male, A*Men, etc...

In 1999, Jacques Polge created this Allure. A Chanel fragrance that doesn't smell like Chanel. A sweet concoction with creamy nuances and some fougere hints here and there. Lavender, bergamot, creamy woods and sweet tonka with a touch of peach. Since his creation, Chanel's masculines changed to a more fresh, sporty and versatile scents for everyday use.

Although not a great fragrance, it's one that is very overshadowed by his little brothers (Allure Homme Sport, Eau Extreme or even Edition Blanche (the best one, btw)) and specially by the Bleu line. This is one of the first good fresh-sweet fragrances that helped change the perfumery that we know today. For the good and the bad. But anyway, this is still masculine and with a 90's vibe. Super versatile, like some of his contemporanies (Boss Bottled, Rochas Man, etc...) and better than the Sport flankers.

I only prefer Edition Blanche over this for a Spring and summer day, but this is great for fall and winter. The only problem is that it was reformulated and it doesn't last so well and it isn't so complex (specially in the opening) like the version that i have (2002 batch), but still, is a good option for a everyday fragrance.

A fragrance that deserves more atention thatn the newer Chanel's fragrances.
3/5

HugoMontez 18 days ago 4
10
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
7
Bottle

With love, forever.
There are some fragrances that create so much with so little. Super straight forward, they want to replicate some moment/place or just the smell of something.

Goutal is a great classic brand that newer noses don't care and/or don't even know about it. And I don't blame them because today's standards are different from 20 years ago. Youtubers are the main sources for new hyped fragrances and the whole market are centered on fresh and sweet versatile scents and the niche houses are no longer niche brands but just high end designers clones, with higher price tags. Fortunately, there are still some classic niche brands that does things right.

This classic '85 release is a proof that we still can enjoy some different and quality fragrances with a good price and stand out while smelling appealing at the same time.

Created to his husband, Goutal wanted to replicate the smell of sand in Corsica beaches. And to do that, she choose to use immortelle. A big flower, with yellow tones and a strong smell (like burned curry). Very common in dunes and dry sandy places.

Sables has, right at the opening, a strong immortelle presence. Super dry, curry-like, a little bit creamy and sweet. There's also something sticky and sweet in the opening, that will evolve into a more dry, creamy and relaxed sweetness in he drydown. The main player here is, of course, the immortelle but I also can detect some dry and sweet cinnamon and a creamy sandalwood. That's it. Super straight forward composition. But it's so beautiful, powerful and majestic that it works perfectly.

A true piece of art, but still, very wearable and comforting like a warm coat. Winter is the best time to wear it due to his great performance and presence. Although I also can wear it in spring, on a walk on the coast side. 2 sprays will fill a room and will last all day (10h+)

All in all, a beautiful and magic fragrance that is a must-have and deserves more attention. Hopefully, will be available forever for us to enjoy, like the immortelle itself.

5/5

HugoMontez 19 days ago 3
7
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
6
Bottle

Vanilla Ice!
Tom Ford usually take some risks, specially on his first releases back in the 00's.

Black Orchid, Tobacco Vanille, Oud Wood and Tuscan Leather were pretty much pioneers and they still stand unique to this day (despite some clones and very "inspired" creations around there).

This one is kinda unique but more mainstream and less daring than the previous i mentioned. It's a vanilla based scent but not strong enough to be a winter killer, more a Netflix and chill, a cuddling scent, around the house or by the fireplace kind of a fragrance.

The main player here is the vanilla, as I said before, but along with that it has an interesting freshness due to some citruses and florals. The citrus here are not strong, not in your face. Just gives a slightly juicy sweet mandarin orange feel with hits of orange blossom. During the heart of this one, the florals became more pronounced but the vanilla is still pretty much on the front. The cardamom helps the vanilla become more tamed and spicy, more interesting and less sweet. A really delicious warm vanilla ice cream. It will not change much during the lifetime on your skin. A warm vanilla fresh and spicy ice cream!

The longevity is average to good (around 8-10h), and the projection is average to low. Again, I prefer it to be like this. Is a feel good scent for cuddling and Netflix. Not your typical vanilla sweet bomb, ambery or medicinal. It's unisex and appealing to everyone. Not masculine and a complement magnet. Just a good smelling scent that will fit indoor enviornments during colder weather.

I recommend it if you like sweet yet fresh vanilla scents with personality. Not groundbreaking or masterpiece territory but still, a great frangrance for indoors in winter time.

3.5/5


HugoMontez 20 days ago 4
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

I love you, honeybear
There's a trend specially in niche to create a scent that evoques a fake sophistication and pretentiousness. I don't know why but people go crazy over that type of scent.

They usually say that's "niche quality" which I don't agree at all, mainly because there isn't such thing as "niche quality". Niche means availability and price, not quality.
Don't get me wrong, I love many niche fragrances and indie ones, as much as I love designer ones, as long as they smell good, are unique and well blended. But the hype around overrated niche brands these days is enormous.

This Cartier is a true high quality woody fragrance and more unique that many out there (as many other fragrances from this slightly underrated brand are). This one is focused on honey and fresh violet leaves. Not a tipical combination but a successful one. It starts out very fresh and sweet with a big dose of violet leaves and ambrosia (honey). The gaiac wood is melted in the honey accord, giving a slightly creamy and woody tone to the composition. The evolution is smooth and barely exists. The fragrance become more airy, less sweet and with a touch of musk in the drydown but nothing crazy.

Overall, an airy, fresh and sweet woody composition, with an aura of elegance around. Very long lasting (8+ hours), and completely unisex in opinion.

It's unique, interesting, mature yet modern, and a must buy for people who apreciate Woody floral musk compositions or just want to have a great modern masculine fragrance.

5/5
2 Replies

HugoMontez 3 months ago 6
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Soapy Vetiver
There are 3 different categories of Vetiver based scents. The dry-earthy category, the more recent gourmand category and the classical soapy one. This is an example of the old style. I one of the best vetivers around. A true mark in fragrance history.
My review is based on my current bottle, which is the square frosted one. I had some decants of the current version in the HR style bottle with green cap and it's definitely watered down, lasts only 5h and more is slightly more fresh, with less tobacco.
It's a very linear scent. Basically starts with vetiver, bergamot and dry tobacco and it ends like that, just with less bergamot.
A great office scent, classy, refined, masculine, timeless.
If you want a versatile masculine vetiver, search no more.
This one lasts all day (12h+) and has a good bubble around you. Doesn't project like a monster though. It's more around you.
A masterpiece that everyone should have.
5/5
2 Replies

1 - 5 of 21