HugoMontezHugoMontez's Perfume Reviews

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HugoMontez 1 month ago 7
8.5
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

Smooth and creamy woody-spicy
Sometimes we see fragrances making a comeback due to hype or similarities to a new fragrance. That's what happened with Zino. A forgotten piece of work that i accidentally came across with a sample that i bought years ago just for curiosity.

Zinc came out in 1986, 2 years before Cool Water and, according to Osmothèque, was created in a collaboration between Michel Almairac and Pierre Bourbon (who later created, alone, Cool Water). A fragrance that has a lot of dry woods (mainly sandalwood and Rosewood) and creamy lavender.

It opens up very strong, woody and with a vanillic background. I detect more rosewood in this fase. To me, one of the best openings in classic fragrances. Smooth, rich and masculine. The thing about this one is that it doesn't feel dated or saturated. It's very vivid and crisp. It would cost a triple of the price, easily. I can't detect any cheap aura or bad quality materials.

Although not dated, the opening feels more mature and "complicated". To me, is fantastic and reminds me a bit of Heritage by Guerlain (1992). The sharp and aromatic woody note combined with the vanillic background is reminiscent to Guerlain but, the comparisons are much more evident in Beau de Jour by Tom Ford. They are 2 completely different scents but, for the first 1-2h, they reach almost the same tone. Both are woody, sharp and aromatic but, Tom Ford is more herbal and bitter, and smokier. Geranium is probably the key to reveil these facets.

Looking at Zino, after 2h the scent dies a lot, turning into a creamy woody-oriental scent with lavender in the front. The woodiness is tamed, the aromatic lavender is more pronounced and the vanilla finishes the composition. I don't detect a lot of patchouli to be honest. It's there, but not strong enough to be considered a patchouli based scent. Lavender, rosewood, sandalwood and vanilla are the stars here.

In the end, the fragrance is not a replacement for Beau de Jour but it's definitely a influence to the Tom Ford creation. I like them both but i wish Zino performed a bit better, specially in the sillage and projection department, where, after a strong opening, dries down and became more of a subtle masculine woody oriental with an aromatic touch. It lasts 6-7h on my skin, projecting a lot during the first 2 hours.

A great composition that still influence new fragrances and with a great price-value. Doesn't smell cheap, doesn't smell dated, has a great opening and a creamy and relaxing drydown, and is created by 2 legends. Buy a bottle or two, while you can. This is one of those dumb reach scents that keeps you entertained and smells awesome.

4/5
1 Reply

HugoMontez 1 month ago 4
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

Sweet spices for men
I really like this one. The best from the brand, imo. Extreme is a good vanilla-cinnamon bomb but the OG has more going on.

I like this fresh spices on top of a tobacco leaf and cedar. Although very spicy, it's not a Spice Bomb per say. It's sweet (but not cloying) and woody. The opening has some fresh citrus along with pepper, pimento and saffron. Has it dries down, the aromatic and woody aspects become more evident. The cedar-tobacco combo is to die for and the touch of sweet cinnamon turns this fragrance to a very alluring and sexy composition.

It's great for fall to early winter days. Specially on sunny days. It can be a date scent or night out during spring/summer. The longevity is really good and the projection is decent. Not a beast mode fragrance but a typical EDT with a good punch.

Olivier Polge is a very talented perfumer and, after his masterpiece Dior Homme, he created some good classic masculine scent like The One, F Black, MiP, Valentino Uomo or this one. To me, this is a fantastic fall staple and better than his your brother Extreme which is more common and less interesting, despite being a good smelling scent.

This is a must have for me. Not a masterpiece but a great unique scent. Spicy-woody fragrances are usually my favorites. There's something about this style that fits me well and this is no exception. It adds this sexy modern nuance to a light tobacco leaf and a bunch of fresh spicy ingredients.

4/5

HugoMontez 2 months ago 4
9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

Italian man in the 90's
Dolce & Gabbana, a brand that doesn't have many great fragrances, in fact, i guess this is their best (talking about the masculine ones).

A concoction of citruses, lavender, sage and woods. A simple eau de cologne mixed with a fougère style. Max Gavarry, the perfumer behind this fragrance, managed to create something with a cool water base and brighten it up with an Italian sexy vibe. It has a soapy quality, from the fougère structure and it's very alluring all the way. A typical 90's masculine but with this sexy citruses from a Italian eau de cologne.

The citruses aren't the most natural ones but, for some reason, they work perfectly here with the herbs de provence and the light wood/tonka base. Nothing is sharp here. A pretty smooth fougère that has also a soft tobacco leaf note in the base to blend everything together. Is probably the least perceptive note but it's the one that helps this composition not being boring and has this sexy masculine aura.

Unfortunately, D&G left EuroItalia in late 90's to joined P&G and later, Coty (everything from that era is very forgettable, to be honest) and the version of this classic is also completely different. Much sharper with less quality materials. Recently, the brand joined Shiseido group and they came out with slightly more interesting fragrances but i didn't tried the Pour Homme version yet. I hope the quality was increased as I consider Shiseido as a good brand/group.

But for now, I suggest you to find a EuroItalia version if you want to experience this fragrance in full HD Stereo.
The longevity is also better in this version (+8h) and the sillage is also stronger.
Overall, a great fougeres with some unique qualities.

4/5

HugoMontez 2 months ago 4
9
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle

Summer love
One of my first "hidden gems" that i came across when I started my journey years ago was this fragrance. A masterful composition by one of my favorites Perfumers, mister Jean-Claude Ellena.

He arrived at Hermès in 2003, and the first fragrance that he created was this one. This is probably one of my favorite spring/summer fragrances and even after these years and hundreds of fragrances tested, this is still a staple and a must have in my collection. My girlfriend steal it sometimes, cause she loves it too.

So what it smells like? Basically, a fresh, green, Mediterranean breeze in a summer afternoon. It starts off with a tomato steam accord. Very bitter, green but, still, with juicy and fruity elements. There's a cypress note that helps accentuate the green aspect and some nuttiness that camera from nowhere. Some would say pistachio, but i don't smell that.

Above this, and as the perfume develope, the fig tree and the leafs came to play and make this even more summery and refreshing. A true Mediterranean feel.

I live in a place where Fig trees can easily be found and i also a big fan of the smell and the fruit itself. This, although not the perfect reinterpretation of the Fig theme, it's definitely in the top 10 and, as a fresh-green scent, is probably one of the best. I love all the facets. The green cypress and fig leafs, the nuttiness, the refreshing tomato steam accord, the overall summer afternoon feel. A very good company on a summer afternoon walk after beach.

If you don't know this fragrance and love fig trees and wish for summer holidays in Italy, test this one out. Grab your sunglasses, put on your favorite flip-flops, a tripped t-shirt and some shorts, close your eyes and enjoy the Mediterranean breeze that this fragrance creates in the air.

Just a sidenote, the performance is not the greatest but it's decent. 5-6h with good projection in the first hour.

4/5

PS: I would give it a 5* rating but we have to be honest, objetive and unbiased. A very recommended one and my favorite from the line, with Un Jardin Sur Le Nil being a very close second.
2 Replies

HugoMontez 2 months ago 4
7.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

A woody spicy gem!
Mauboussin is not a prestigious house, fragrance wise. But this Alberto Morillas creation, in the early 2000's is an exception of a good woody spicy scent.

Morillas, at that point, was already a all-star perfumer. Xeryus, Tommy Cologne, CKOne, ADG, Pi, 212, M7.... the list was extensive. This, albeit not as good as the previous ones mentioned, is a really decent, creative and good value fragrance.

It's almost a fougère, due to the lavender and sage combo, but, it goes to a more woody and spicy territory with lots of cinnamon and a play-doh aftertaste. That weird powdery/dough accord is made, somehow, with sage, cinnamon and patchouli. The result is a very interesting take on a woody-spicy, with slightly sweet elements and herbal compounds. Closer to something like Heritage but less rich and full.

It starts off a bit herbal (sage+lavender) and warm spicy (cinnamon), then the play-doh effect appears and lately, after 2-3h, it settles down to a light patchouli with vanilla and cinnamon combo.

Again, not the greatest woody spicy around but very under the radar. I have the vintage EDT, with the build in sprayer (you have to turn to spray), and i find it very fun to wear during autumn. The bottle it's really cool and i like the sprayer mechanism.

The longevity is good (around 8-10h) with a good bubble in the first hour-hour and a half. For the price, i can easily recommend, specially, if you like woody spicy fragrances, or just if you like to collect inexpensive gems like I do.

3/5

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