HugoMontezHugoMontez's Perfume Reviews

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HugoMontez 4 months ago 3
7
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Cut grass on musk
Carolina Herrera is a house with not so many good offerings for men. One of them is the original Herrera for men (which has lost his power and quality over the years), another other one is this 212 for men.

This is one of the classics from the 00's. It came in 99, and has some qualities from other fresh scents of the nineties and, specially, a fragrance also made by Alberto Morillas. Lanvin L'Homme. A fragrance with lots of violet leaf with a musky base. That musky base is very similar to the one we find here.

The opening of 212 is essentially a cut grass accord mixed with some spices, namely pepper. Kinda unique for the time. As it dries down, the musk became noticeable. Soapy sweet musk, not an animalic one. And it's pretty much it. The musk is very present until the end. I have a vintage bottle and the performance is incredible. Super persistent and long lasting. 8+ hours easily.

I'm not a fan of that musky drydown to be honest but it's not super strong in the current formula. The cut grass is very interesting and refreshing. Definitely the star of this fragrance.

Overall, a easy fragrance that works for spring and summer time, versatile, masculine, grab n go sort of thing, uncomplicated and long lasting. Also appealing to the majority of the people.

A solid pick with good price online and a classic from the brand.

3/5

HugoMontez 5 months ago 4
8.5
Scent
5
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

Woody musky sexyness!
Gucci Rush for Men is so good that it's one of the few discontinued fragrances that truly deserves a comeback.

Gucci nowadays has almost nothing interesting in their fragrance line for men. Guilty Absolute, that offers a woody-leather experience and the underrated Guilty Cologne are probably the only ones that i can recommend. But back in the late 90's and early 00's, Tom Ford was in charge and put some ideas on the table.

One of the best examples was this fragrance. A woody fragrance composed by Antoine Maisondieu and Daniela Andrier. Two great perfumers who created some great fragrances throughout the years. They joined again later for Bottega Veneta pour homme, another great woody-leather fragrance with pine needles upfront.

This one was launched in the beginning of the new millennium and followed a new genre of woody masculines. The milky nuance is, I believe, popularized by Feu D'Issey in '98 but doomed because it was a feminine release. This time, the milky sandalwood was joined by Cedar and Cypress with a musky finale.

Seems and feels simple, and it really is, but in a beautiful and comforting way. A second skin experience. There's definitely Iso E Super here, supporting the woods and along with the musk, helping the increase of longevity. Very dry and fresh woody fragrance with milky nuances.

The opening has light green cypress leafs and echos of Encre Noire. Both have cypress and iso E super so the comparison is logical, but this is more milky, creamy and more musky. Also more rounded and second skin-like. They just have a similar woody-new wave style.

After the opening, it mellows a bit, tuning down the cypress and cedar note and increasing the musk one. It turns into a beautiful sensual milky musk with a masculine (and new at the time) woody trail. It doesn't last long (3-5h usually) and doesn't project great, but it acts like a sexy skin scent and i like that.

It's something that i can see in the niche world easily, cause it's very conceptual and avant-garde at the time. One fragrance that has some similarities is Azzaro Visit but that one is more sweet and it lacks the beautiful musk note. And it doesn't have the green cypress. It's more a alternative on a budget.

And speaking about the price, this is ultra expensive nowadays due to its discontinuation. So I can't recommend you for those prices. But if you find this under 90€/100ml I would pick it up. It's good, unique, sexy, avant-garde and it comes in a beautiful retro plastic and metallic bottle that seems like it came from the 80's.

Overall, a beautiful woody scent that i will miss when I finish my bottle. Luckily, I still have +90ml of juice to enjoy!

4/5


2 Replies

HugoMontez 6 months ago 7
8
Scent
6
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Perfect summer masculine!
Caron is criminally underrated. A classic french house, pretty much a true Niche brand (not available everywhere, pretty original and with perfumes as the main business).

Pour un homme is one of the pillars of Lavender masculines. A gorgeous and very natural lavender with vanilin and some musks in the base. Simple but memorable.

This Sport edition is a more fresh and green version of the original, without vanilla but, instead, with some Ambergris in the base. It starts like the original, with a burst of Lavender, very powdery, masculine and upscaled or, at least, gentleman-like.

What differs completely from the original is the mid and drydown. The star here is the Lemon verbena. A grassy, green, lemony scent that is reminiscent of tea (and is great for infusions). The fragrance turns fresher and slightly citrusy and green due to this ingredient. There's also some cedar to make it more rounded and masculine and the drydown reveals ambergris. A salty and slightly sweet ingredient.

Overall a fresh, salty, green and a bit sweet fragrance, excellent for summer and spring days with decent longevity and good projection in the first hour or so.

An underrated gem that needs more attention and is highly recommended by me as a great and unique fragrance for this upcoming summer.

4/5
4 Replies

HugoMontez 6 months ago 4
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

The bright side of Oud
Everyone knows what is Oud at this point. But back in 2004, only YSL and Tom Ford did knew what it was, and they wanted to spread the word to the world. M7 (2002) was a groundbreaking fragrance and put Oud on the map (although is more an accord rather than the material itself). 2 years later, they came out with a fresh interpretation of it, and they nailed it, again.

OK, M7 fresh is kinda predictable in terms of what you'd expect as a fresh flanker of M7, but it's very well made. Jacques Cavallier knows how to do a good and original fresh fragrance. It starts with a big dose of fresh and bitter citruses. Bergamot and Mandarin orange play a big role here. A dance between the juicy sweet mandarin and the bitter green bergamot. After this initial burst, that lasts about 10min, there's some aromatic nuances that i can't put my nose on. Maybe ginger mixed with the citruses makes this aromatic facet shines but it's only there for this transition between the opening and the mid, which is all about grapefruit, and the "oud" accord of the original, which in here, is very toned down and in the background of the composition.

This is a citrus woody aromatic fragrance with the added "oud" accord twist. It's pretty much it. In the drydown, there's vetiver but just supporting the fragrance and make it last a bit more.

Talking about lasting power, the fragrance lasts pretty long to be honest. Not a beast in terms of projection (Just average to good in the first hour or so) but will linger for the whole day. 8+ easily.

I'm enjoying this one a lot and i'm glad i picked up a bottle but i do not recommend paying the online prices that we see on ebay, amazon, etc... Around 60-70€ would be a great deal but not more than that.

The grapefruit-vetiver combination reminds me a bit of L'Homme Ideal Cologne. Not so fresh and almondy but in the same vein.

Overall, a fresh and citrus take on M7, as you'd expect, but very delightful. A sunny oud, as bashke81 said below. I love it and will be a good companion this spring/summer time.

4/5
2 Replies

HugoMontez 7 months ago 6
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

The ideal cologne !
Guerlain is no longer the same house that it once was. Since 94, when the brand was acquired by LVMH, the fragrances started to take a different direction.

Truth to be told, they launched several great fragrances since that time (the Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune and Herba Fresca, the fantastic L'Instant de Guerlain or even Cuir Beluga) but the majority of their fragrances were just mass market impulses.

Since Jean Paul Guerlain left the house in 2010, and choose Thierry Wasser to replace him, Wasser is been working hard to keep the heritage of the brand alive and to bring some good ideas to the table. The Les Absolu D'Orient line is decent (Ambre Eternel is absolutely great and my favorite, by far) and Mon Guerlain is doing well but they needed a new masculine line. L'Homme ideal (2014).

The concept was to create a sweet-gourmand scent with a everlasting freshness, and the result was quite convincing. I like the tonka-guerlinade-amaretto accord of the fragrance but it lacks something in the overall idea. That's when the Cologne flanker appears.

This one took the original tonka-amaretto accord and added a juicy grapefruit note which lasts the entire lifetime of the fragrance. Not a usual thing. The beauty of this fragrance, at least for me, is that is a citric fragrance that actually lasts with the citric being in the front during the lifetime. Longlasting, super fresh and very alluring and even, should I say, sexy!

The result is quite fascinating. A grapefruit with an almond-ish impression and a vetiver-musk finale. Thierry Wasser improved the DNA of the original idea and he never reached the right tune again with the rest of the line. Unfortunately, and i don't know why, they discontinued this fragrance and replaced it with Cool, which is supposedly a minty version but fails completely.

The EDP is the one that is talked about but I never cared much. Basically a cherry-tonka version of the original. Good but not so masterfully done as the Cologne version.

Make me a favor and pick up a bottle (or two) of this fragrance because you will miss it when it disappear completely.

4/5
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