HugoMontezHugoMontez's Perfume Reviews

16 - 20 of 42
HugoMontez 7 months ago 17
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Vetiver for everyone!
There's 3 Vetiver variations used in perfumery. Bourbon (the most high quality one, with green, woody and hazelnut aspects), Haitian (perhaps the most used and with more smoke nuances) and Javanese (a very woody and smoky variation). Nathalie Lorson picked Haitian and, allegedly, Bourbon, and created one of the most beautiful clean and woody vetivers around.

We all know that the most known Vetiver based scent is the 59 novel Vetiver by Guerlain. A great green vetiver with tobacco and some spices undertones and, overall, a crisp and natural feeling.

Lalique picked Nathalie Lorson and let her create a fresh woody fragrance with ink as a concept. Very interesting specially for 2006, when Sport flankers were a thing. She was able to put out a fantastic creation around vetiver.

The bitter green opening of cypress is fenomenal and immediately evokes wet soil in a forest. As it dries down, the vetiver takes control. It's very woody and slightly smoky. I would guess that is more haitian variation than Bourbon one.
The overall feeling is very fresh, woody and slightly smoky. I never became overpowering or offensive. It's very masculine, upscaled and office friendly and long lasting (!) thanks to the highly dose of Iso E Super (45% allegedly). The drydown shows a more subtle vetiver and a amped up Iso E super and Cashmere wood. Both give a modern woody trail with musky undertones.

The price for this one is excellent, specially online, as you all know. 100ml for less than 30€. Crazy!

If you love woody fragrances or want to smell a great woody Vetiver based scent, go buy yourself a bottle, please. If you love perfumery in general, this is a classic and a must have for Fragheads. Lalique could only have this beauty for sale and i would be OK with that. Just keep producing this gem, please!

4/5
6 Replies

HugoMontez 8 months ago 16
9
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

Forgotten gem!
When Tom Ford took the creative direction of YSL, back in 1999, he helped the brand create some of the best fragrances in their catalog. This was his first men's fragrance and was composed by the great Annick Ménardo. Although is kinda forgotten despite the fact that it's still available to purchase. Everybody talks about the discontinued M7 and Rive Gauche pour homme (which are both great fragrances) but this is very under the radar and i don't know why.

This is a really interesting fragrance. Despite the name, it doesn't remind me of Kouros at all. In fact, it smells like sweet woods (benzoin mixed with cedar) but in a weird, almost alien-ish, yet warm-fresh and inviting. The eucalyptus note is noticeable in the opening and brings the green freshness facet to the fragrance mixed with a chinese incense type of a smell that quickly fades away to the sweet wood thing that will last a good 8h on skin. There's a liccorice kind of a smell mixed in the composition but not so strong as in others like Lolita Lempicka, created also by Annick Ménardo.

Despite the weirdness, this is very easy and confortably fragrance to wear specially in night outs or during fall and winter time. Annick Ménardo ussually utilises new synthetic components and mix them with classical bases and ingredients. And this one is a good example of it. Very new and weird smell but, at the same time, really well made and with a classical touch.

i recommend this one even in the newer formulation. Of course the vintage has better quality and has a more disctinct eucalyptus note but, it's still Body Kouros and it still performs and smell good.

A forgotten gem that is still available and pleasant to wear.

4/5 for the vintage
3/5 for the current formulation
4 Replies

HugoMontez 9 months ago 8
8
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
6
Bottle

Everything Looks Better From A Distance
One of the most hyped and then hated fragrances of the last 20 years. 1 Million by Paco Rabanne.
A fragrance that started a line of ultra sweet clubing scents for men. Of course we already have Joop (another one understimated) or even Le Mâle. But 1 Million changed the fragrance world and was a huge influence for more recent releases also from PR but also from many other brands actually, including niche ones.

Many people wore this fragrance and many people hated this one, also. Youtubers started to make fragrance videos and hyped this back in the days. But 2 or 3 years later, people started to get bored of it and sick of it and then it become a nightmare for fragrance lovers. One of the rules to be a prestigious fragrance lover was hating 1 Million.

I was, also, included in that group of people, and for a long time i didn't care for it. I even made fun of it.
So now, in 2021, nobody wears 1 Million. Nobody likes 1 Million, i don't see anyone wearing it or talking about it.

For that reason, and because i'm a sucker for non talked about fragrances and a anti current "niche" brands, i decided to get a sample and revisited this one.

I'm surprised. The opening is still great and addictive! Mandarin orange and cinnamon with hint of fresh rose petals. For people that don't like sweetness, go away, but if you like some sweetness but not the chemical-synthetic mess that they use nowadays (including many niche fragrances), this one is great. Yes, i know, everybody says that this is very synthetic, but comparing to nowadays standards, this is very "natural".

The drydown adds a leather note which is not a classic leather base that we find in masterpieces like Knize Ten or Moschino pour homme or even the great BelAmi but more like the leather that we find in more contemporary releases such as Tuscan Leather (Tom Ford) or Cuir Intense (Guerlain).

The performance is great although, it was reformulated and now is a little more subtle that before. Personally, i think it's better this way.

I find this one really good for night outs or casual events in winter time. Specially outside. It's very unique and still relevant, in my opinion. It's far from being a masterpiece or a timeless masculine but it's very decent and the best from the line. The rating system in Parfumo it's not accurate, again. I see many classics of decent fragrances ranked below 7/10 and i don't understand why. This is better that many niche fragrances out there that so many people rave about and give ridiculous ratings here.

Don't be snob and try this one out. A decent and unique sweet clubing fragrance for the ones that like those kinda scents.

3/5

HugoMontez 9 months ago 5
7
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

UltraMega Ok
This Les Absolu D'Orient line is very mediocre to me. There's a lot of love around this line and, although i think is decent, i find it very pretencious and unconvincing.
The only one that grab my atention and that i have full bottle is the discontinued (but actually great) Ambre Eternel.

I'm a huge fan of Guerlain classics. If there's such a thing called niche, Guerlain should have been considered one. Starting with Jicky, Mouchoir de Monsieur or Mitsouko, passing through Shalimar and Habit Rouge or even Vetiver and Heritage, they all have uniqueness and high quality compositions.
But this line and the recent mainstream L'Homme Ideal, aren't that unique or great. Perhaps the Cologne it might be considered good, but nothing stands out or might be remembered for years.

This one has a good to top note, which makes me think that it might be great. But as it dries down, it became more traditional, more common, more uninteresting. Patchouli-leather-myrrh thing going on for a good 8h. The top note has laurel which brings something quite alluring and interesting. Very aromatic and along with the sweet resinous myrrh, creates an ellegant and sophisticated aura around.

After 1-2h, it changes into a patchouli resinous thing and the hole composition turns irrelevant.

I personally don't love it. Its decent and actually great in the opening but after that, i don't find nothing great to mention.

Try Ambre Eternel if you can. For a different amber and without the woody-amber syndrome.


3/5

HugoMontez 10 months ago
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

The Gour(man)d !
Thierry Mugler (Nowadays just MUGLER) changed the perfumery in 1992 when Angel was launched. A fruity patchouli, intoxicating and mesmerizing. A fragrance that defined a new olfactory family: Gourmand.

After the huge success of it, they needed a counterpart and hired Jacques Huclier to try this theme in a masculine fragrance. A very risky try because at that time, the world didn't have many sweet fragrances (Joop! Homme and Le Male were the 2 most popular ones, i guess), but it turns out to be another successful creation.

This masculine version takes the chocolaty patchouli heart of Angel which made it unforgivable and adds tar, caramel, coffee and lavender. And its freaking delicious!!!

The lavender helps it be more wearable and less sweet and the tar opening turns it more masculine. The development is quite flat but the composition is so glorious that i don't care. Tar, caramel and coffee are super strong in the opening. A sweet bite that immediately takes you to heaven. The tar is present in the early stages but quickly fades out as the fragrance evolve and the lavender-patchouli combo became more evident. The thing that makes this fragrance unique and mesmerizing is this strange masculine combination of lavender and patchouli with this eddible caramel-chocolate-coffee thing going on througout the fragrance lifetime, and it's much more evident here than in the flankers which are more focused on other compounds like the sweet tobacco on Pure havane or the boozy-caramelized whisky.

This is a true masterpiece that is overshadowed by his flankers, which some of them are great like those cited above, but not as remarkable as the originator.

The longevity is excellent (8+ hours easily) with good projection for the first hour.

Thierry Mugler made a timeless masterpiece and he never reach this level again, despite some great flakers.

5/5

16 - 20 of 42