HugoMontezHugoMontez's Perfume Reviews

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HugoMontez 1 year ago 6
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle

I love you, honeybear
There's a trend specially in niche to create a scent that evoques a fake sophistication and pretentiousness. I don't know why but people go crazy over that type of scent.

They usually say that's "niche quality" which I don't agree at all, mainly because there isn't such thing as "niche quality". Niche means availability and price, not quality.
Don't get me wrong, I love many niche fragrances and indie ones, as much as I love designer ones, as long as they smell good, are unique and well blended. But the hype around overrated niche brands these days is enormous.

This Cartier is a true high quality woody fragrance and very unique (as many other fragrances from this brand). This one is focused on honey and fresh violet leaves. Not a typical combination but a successful one. It starts out very fresh and sweet with a big dose of violet leaves and ambrosia (honey). The gaiac wood is melted in the honey accord, giving a slightly creamy and woody tone to the composition. The experience is incredibly smooth. The fragrance become more airy, less sweet and with a touch of musk in the drydown.

Overall, an airy, fresh and sweet woody composition, with an aura of elegance around. Very long lasting (8+ hours), and completely unisex in opinion.

It's unique, interesting, mature yet modern, and a must buy for people who apreciate Woody floral musk compositions or just want to have a great modern masculine fragrance.

EDIT: this one became instantly one of my favorite fragrances. The composition is so well blended and unique, and very wearable! Sometimes we have super creative stuff with low versatility but this is a easy reach during the colder months.
Mathilde Laurent is a incredible nose and deserves more attention. Stuff like this, Roadster or Declaration Parfum are classics from the brand and even Herba Fresca and Pamplelune from Guerlain are great example of fresh yet interesting compositions.
Overall, L'Envol is fantastic and deserves the 5* in my book.

5/5
2 Replies

HugoMontez 1 year ago 7
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Soapy Vetiver
There are 3 different categories of Vetiver based scents. The dry-earthy category, the more recent gourmand category and the classical soapy one. This is an example of the old style. I one of the best vetivers around. A true mark in fragrance history.
My review is based on my current bottle, which is the square frosted one. I had some decants of the current version in the HR style bottle with green cap and it's definitely watered down, lasts only 5h and more is slightly more fresh, with less tobacco.
It's a very linear scent. Basically starts with vetiver, bergamot and dry tobacco and it ends like that, just with less bergamot.
A great office scent, classy, refined, masculine, timeless.
If you want a versatile masculine vetiver, search no more.
This one lasts all day (12h+) and has a good bubble around you. Doesn't project like a monster though. It's more around you.
A masterpiece that everyone should have.
5/5
2 Replies

HugoMontez 1 year ago 4
9
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
7
Bottle

Summer memory - Wet sand and suntan lotion
This fragrance is unexpectedly good. Pretty simple, short lived and with a slightly generic base, but unique and great at the same time. It has Hedione which gives a jasmine vibe with a summer dry air feeling.
Objectly, the fragrance starts with a slighty sweet fig accord along with a currant leaf note and the Hedione. It drys down to a creamy-sweet lotion vibe provided by the sandalwood and Hedione. Hedione is the key here and links the fig opening with the creamy and sweet drydown.
It reminds me of beach but not in an aquatic way, neither in an suntan lotion way (which coconut and tuberose usually do), more in a breezy-wet-sand way. I know, sounds awkward, but that's what this one is. A bit strange but familiar. Like a memory, an old summer photograph that you have.
This is very interesting because of that. No Calone, no citruses, no tropical fruits, just a fig fruit accord (which is not super evident and completely different from other fig leaf base fragrances), Hedione, and soft creamy sandalwood. Doesn't last a long time but it's fun, masculine, summery and different although the Hedione gives a familiar and, for some, a "generic" vibe, which is not in a bad way and, if you pass some time with it, you'll find the beauty and the original twist that it has.
A solid and underrated fragrance by Dior.
4/5 (this review is based on a vintage bottle)
3/5 for the current formulation

HugoMontez 1 year ago 3
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle

A walk in a forest near the coast.
A fantastic woody marine fragrance!
This one is a classic already and it's one that not many people know or talk about lately. It was the second one to use Calone in perfumery, after New West (Aramis, 1988).

Aramis used Calone to represent the smell of West Coast with a green and marine feel. Super odd to be honest due to the amount of Calone used.

Years later Issey Miyake used Calone one their L'eau D'Issey for woman (1992) and was a huge success.
This Kenzo is very different from the other fresh aquatics from the 90's because it uses calone just to create a fresh and breezy marine accord but with more woody and herbal aspects on it. It's not sweet at all.

The overall smell is around sandalwood, pine needles and the marine nuances. It's like a walk in a forest near the coast. A fresh and foggy morning.

Beside the marine impression, i don't see it as a fresh summer scent and that's the thing that makes me love this one. The perfumer Christian Mathieu achieved a unique woody fresh herbal scent using the new (at the time) Calone molecule but without trying to replicate the salty-melon like feel of many other fresh summer scents from that era. The result is really brilliant!

The performance is also great (vintage and the newer batches) but i prefer the smoothness of the vintage.

I don't recommend this one for summer, unless, if you wear it at night. I do recommend wearing this on fresh and foggy days to fully experience this one.

If you find a vintage, it's well worth it, otherwise, the current version is still OK and will do the job, specially if you never smelled the vintage.

4/5
3 Replies

HugoMontez 2 years ago 5
8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

A trip to Nil
Jean Claude Ellena is a master parfumer well known for his "natural smell theme" in his creations. I'm a fan of his work and some of his creations are among my favorites of all time. Déclaration, Terre D'Hermès, Un Jardin en Mediterranée, just to name a few.

This "Un Jardin" line started in 2003 with the great Un Jardin en Mediterranée which combines fig leaves and tomato stem. But this one is the one that is talked about just because all of it's story around. In fact, is a really decent and almost great fragrance. Kinda complex, yet super easy-to-wear and with this "natural" feeling.

I confess i didn't love it at first and rejected it for some years just because i though it didn't have anything special. Until i bought it and spent some time with it. I still prefer Mediterranée but this is actually really good too.

It starts green and juicy. The greeness comes from the green mango accord and juiciness from grapefruit. The overal feel is very fresh, bitter, green, slightly plastic also. Luca Turin describes it as a new plastic tablecloth smell, and i totally get what it means. It has that plastic feel during the lifetime of the fragrance but never offensive but, actually, quite fascinating. As it dries down, the floral aspects came to life. Lotus is the more proeminent, giving a watery and transparent vibe to the fragrance, but always with this (less) greeness from the mango-grapefruit thing.

Underneath this composition, especially in the drydown, i detect the soft incense and sweet-soft sycomore wood. That's when you realize this travel was worth it and the Nil is there. That's the twist! The "pièce de résistence" of this fragrance. The glue that makes the whole composition works. A fresh wood scent with a strong green watery presence. There's a Timbuktu vibe going on sometimes due to Mango-Incense combo, although, Sur Le Nil is greener and watery.

The projection is average and longevity is around 6h but for this type of fragrance, i think is adequate.

Overall, an excellent fresh woody scent with a green opening and an incense feel.

3,5/5

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