ItchynoseItchynose's Perfume Reviews

1 - 5 of 38
Itchynose 36 days ago 4
8.5
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
9
Bottle

The Rite of Spring
There is a fig tree in my back garden that keeps me busy all year round. Branches grow and extend all over the place and regardless of how many I manage to chop one year twice as many will take their place the following season.

During spring the garden is taken over by bees and bugs and in late summer, once the figs start dropping from the branches like hand grenades the insects multiply. Any attempt at gardening will leave me bitten, stung and with plenty of decomposing fig pulp stuck to my soles.

In autumn the massive fig leaves have turned brown and started to fall, waiting for the rain that will turn them into a wet and musty blanket all over the floor. Before winter arrives the last gardening tasks of the year are completed in preparation for the cycle to start again only a few months later.

Philosykos brings me back to this garden every time I spray it: I can smell the wet leaves, the wood and branches as they go through the seasons: very green and fresh during the spring-like opening, more woody as the scent evaporates with the summer heat and almost earthy during the autumn-like drydown. It smells clean, transparent and natural but also at times milky with an almost rubbery feeling, bringing to mind sticky sap. Since the fragrance recreates the entire tree and not just the fruit it remains a perfectly unisex fragrance throughout, light and easy to wear by anyone almost all year round.

One day I wlil move to another place and no longer have a fig tree to keep me busy throughout the year but I will always keep a decant or two of Philosykos to bring those memories back.

Itchynose 57 days ago 3
8
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle

Good things come to those who wait
Oftentimes the initial stage of a fragrance is the most exciting part and it's rare –at least for me– for the fading drydown to beat an opening full of fireworks. Eau Duelle is one of such exceptions: a scent that requires patience in order to reach the proverbial pot of gold.

The first few minutes may come across as too loud or agressive particularly for a Dyptique fragrance, usually so full of restraint. There is an abundant bright spice that is fizzy like ambroxan, and it combines with cypriol oil to create an almost sour accord that the most sensitive nostrils won't appreciate. Thankfully this stage doesn't last too long.

Once the spice settles the real protagonist rears its head. It's a warm, slightly powdery and very pleasant vanilla –far from sickly sweet– next to some wood and incense. This is a much more enjoyable combo that comes to the forefront fully as time goes by, ending up in a sober, unisex vanillic woodwork smell with a hint of smoke. It's a perfume that could be categorized as spicy, woody and sweet but it never approaches gourmand territory.

A few hours later most of the notes are gone and there is just a faint vanilla scent on the skin, so comforting that one wishes it would never fully fade away.

Itchynose 61 days ago 3
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
7
Bottle

Caramel vanilla hugs
Vanilla and benzoin –the dominating combo in SDV– are a match so perfect that it should be regarded in the same category as other classics such as mint and chocolate, lime and coconut, rum and raisin or cheese and onion. The stuff great memories and clogged arteries are made of.

Here the vanilla brings warmth and sweetness while the benzoin adds smoothness and depth, resulting in an accord not too far away from caramel or golden syrup bubbling up in a pan. It's a thick and pleasant treacle-like aroma, comforting and slightly boozy like the hug of a drunken relative on New Year's Eve and with just a hint of ylang-ylang or pink pepper every now and then to keep things interesting.

All in all Spiritueuse Double Vanille is a cozy cold weather fragrance well suited for intimate and special occasions, or for any time a gourmand craving may arise; a scent that would be just criminal for any sweet-toothed vanilla lover to miss.

Itchynose 67 days ago 1
9
Scent
8
Longevity
5
Sillage
9
Bottle

Boozy sobriety
We all know that anyone can wear anything, that there is no seasonality, that gender and class and age are labels, marketing ploys, social constructs and all that jazz. Yet there are times when you bring a fragrance to your nose for the first time and the picture it paints is so vivid that the associations are very hard to deny. At the end of the day we are only the children of our own circumstance and many mental images speak louder than words: grandpa's aftershave, mom's purse, you catch my drift.

Kilian's Straight to Heaven has such an effect on me. From the initial blast of rum and nutmeg to the drydown full of wood and patchouli there is an unmistakeable masculine quality to it, one that evokes a particular man: a sleek and suave operator with just the right number of undone buttons in the tailor-made shirt, just the right amount of stubble on his face and just the right drink in his hand. Maybe it's the smell of the sort of fantasy character many of us men would aspire to become "when we grow up".

The scent itself may be accused of being slightly linear and quite underwhelming in the performance department –the hefty price tag can't be ignored– but ultimately this is not a fragrance for an impressionable young contender desperate for attention, it's a scent for a confident adult with plenty of tricks up his sleeve.

Itchynose 69 days ago 1
7.5
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

The fairies favorite
I haven't come across many perfumes that manage to recreate the smell of winter; and I'm not talking about sweet warm chestnuts in front of a Christmas fire but the cold blast of a massive snowball to the face.

Euphorium Brooklyn's Ume not only manages to evoke that sensation accurately but it does so with a rather unorthodox ball of snow: this one doesn't pack solid frozen water but an orange and purple concoction made of frosty apricot and plum juice. Its scent is sweet and fluffy like cotton candy, feminine and ethereal like a woodland fairy and mesmerizing like a magic spell.

Maybe not the easiest to pull off but a unique and beautiful fragrance nonetheless.

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