Itchynose

To my nose there is a beautiful opening of warm spicy cardamom, velvety cashmere and a slightly sweet balsam fir that evoke neatly wrapped luxurious presents under the christmas tree.

Joop certainly went in a different direction with a fragrance that is more mature than their usual in a much better looking bottle than usual. Surprisingly though they still chose a rather juvenile name that doesn't seem to match this darker, woody scent. The sweetness here is not the sickly type found in Homme or Homme Wild but much more ambery and natural, with none of the teenage fun factor of the other Joop fragrances. The performance sadly is not like Homme or Homme Wild either and it's a shame the initial smooth top notes don't last longer, but the dry down is still very aromatic and enjoyable.

Wow may not have the celebrity status of Joop Homme but to me it's a more serious, versatile and wearable scent for the colder months.

With a lot of watery seaweed, cucumbery oceanic notes and a touch of iris and aldehydes Margiela's Sailing Day manages to recreate that clean and slightly salty scent that lingers on your skin, towel and swimming trunks after spending a day at the beach, pool or of course, sailing. It's a pleasant, light and airy kind of chlorine that barely projects but lasts a good while.

Sailing Day may be a bit too subtle and pricey to replace your favorite fresh fragrance but it's still a different and evocative addition to the summer rotation, one particularly suitable to those looking for a refreshing but citrus-less aquatic scent. Another great creation by Maison Martin Margiela.

Margiela's Blur is a multipurpose Swiss army knife of a fragrance, not meant to project but to sit oily on your skin with a subtle, comforting cottony scent. It can be used on its own but will find a greater purpose if used to layer other fragrances on top of it for unexpected results or extra longevity. It can be sprayed on pillows and bedsheets and since it's an oil it can also be applied on the hair making it fluffy and shiny with the nicest clean laundry scent.

All in all Blur is a soft and clean cotton and talc powder accord in a little wonderful bottle; something different to have in the collection.

For three decades Wolfgang Joop and Michel Almairac have pulled a prank on men all over the world with a fragrance that smells feminine, looks pink and comes in a bottle of nail polish. Since the juice is great the joke's on them.

Joop Homme is an intoxicatingly sweet fragrance that for most men belongs in the "love or hate" category. Its scent could be described as fruity lollipop, artificially flavored candy or cough syrup strawberry; it is a unique, practically unisex 90s icon for the sweet-toothed or one to avoid for those who prefer their perfumes to be masculine, discreet or understated. Still, Joop Homme can be a lot of fun in the right setting and weather –cold–, and its excellent performance will make heads turn for good or bad.

tl;dr: an intense bubblegummy trip worth experiencing at least once.

There is something almost soothing about Starwalker's opening bamboo and bergamot combo, a gentle blend of sweet soft wood and sharp citrus with all other supporting notes in the background –fir, ginger, cedar, sandalwood– adding to the quiet, zen-like balance. This is not an aggressive scent that will turn you into an alpha male; it's a fresh, watery fragrance preparing you for a meditation session on the yoga mat.

Individuel or Legend and its flankers may have been getting all the attention in recent years but to me Starwalker is the real hidden gem in Montblanc's collection. As a lover of citrus fragrances with a distinct personality this is as close to signature scent material as it gets.