JMK

Well, it was a decent idea at least. Burberry have attempted to evoke a garden after the rain with this fragrance composed by it-perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, but the perfume seems to run out of steam (or should that be cash) after a very brief time both on my skin and on a tester strip. Granted, the fragrance is suitably sharp and elegant when it does manage to make an appearance, but the brevity of that opening loveliness is all too brief for me. All that's left is a beige patchouli nothingness, and by the time that point is reached, I've forgotten what the start smelled like.

A nice try from Burberry, but there's hundreds of other perfumes that do this better. In particular, take a look at Guerlain's Après L'ondée for the most beautiful post-rain experience in perfumery.

One of the things I loved about the original Narciso Rodriguez for Her was the dissonance it created between being a pretty floral and a sensual, almost delinquent musk. Narciso (2014) continues that theme; the pastel shades implied by the soapy gardenia and smooth vanilla are offset by the signature musk and the addition of cedar (two kinds!).

The result is modern and chic, but it manages to eschew many of the tired clichés that many other modern fragrances fall into by playing them off against one another. There's a hint of vanilla sweetness, a soapy floral note, and a woods-and-musk drydown - on their own, they equate to department store-friendly unit shifters, but when put together in Narciso, the result is a gorgeous, creamy scent, presented in a your-skin-but-better manner. The reassuringly-heavy cubic bottle is very fitting in that regard, with a milky-white opaque filling akin to that of past Narciso Rodriguez releases, and a gorgeous nude-coloured square cap that stands out on any perfume shelf. Appropriately, the fragrance stays close to the skin, and never outstays its welcome, reaching the base after around 4 hours and gently clinging to the skin for some time after that.

All in all, a timeless modern classic, unspoilt by tired ideas seen elsewhere in perfumery. The closest thing I've met to a signature fragrance, and one that I hope stays with me for a long time.

In a way, I am still disappointed with Chanel 1932 (EDT). It does seem to occupy a space between Chanel's previous offerings - 31 Rue Cambon and 28 La Pausa - whilst not really being as distinctive as either of those two.

Aside from that minor irk, I do think 1932 does smell beautiful just like many other Exclusifs. Unlike 31 Rue Cambon, 1932 possesses a lovely, light, almost silky jasmine note (not at all dirty like some jasmine notes), and this combined with the trademark Chanel iris and whispery aldehydes make for a fragrance that is equally suitable for day and evening wear. The heart of the fragrance lasts for around 3 hours on my skin before settling down to the slightly sweet muskiness previously seen in 31 Rue Cambon.

1932 lasts longer than 28 La Pausa - which only gives me about 2 hours of longevity before disappearing entirely - but doesn't radiate for quite as long as 31 Rue Cambon does with its trail of ambery patchouli. Whilst not being the most distinctive Chanel Exclusif, it's one of the prettiest. 1932 could make a good starting point for those new to the line, but they may eventually move on to some of the bolder releases in the line.

EDIT - I've really grown to love this one. Perhaps the most easy to like of all the Exclusifs.