JacSi9
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JacSi9
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Of Raging Kinskis And Fake Rose Petals
The most fascinating fragrances for me are those that do not directly trigger a reflex to buy. Which, months after the first encounter notwithstanding, creep back into consciousness without any external trigger and say: "I'm still here. You might have to look for half a day. But I'm there. And you should try again." I've written about this in the past, and I'm doing it again now. Often these are the scents that don't fit the familiar pattern and break up the known. The force of habit is stronger than the spirit of discovery at first. But the forward-pressing desire for the new eventually finds its way through the brain into olfactory memory.
I must have had my sample of Fars for over two years. Every few months it comes out of nowhere. The need to seek out Fars again. After the pale memory on which I want to spray again a current impression. Up until now, along with the obvious fascination, there has always been a doubt present as to whether the scent suits me. Slowly, however, I have to admit to myself that I no longer want to escape the spell. The spirit of discovery has triumphed once again. But why is that so?
I've read about comparisons to Jubilation 25 by Amouage. And while the fragrance profiles are really far apart, it makes sense. In both fragrances, the contents are extremely tightly woven. Individual notes are hard to pick out. The famous whole that is more than its parts. There's also the solemnity of demeanor, even if the extroversion is a different one here. And just like the Amouage, something touches me here that I can't quite put into words. That certain je-ne-sais-quoi vibe that every fragrance enthusiast knows from somewhere. That you can't attribute to specific fragrance notes. The sum makes the music here.
Whether Fars really belongs in the family of oud stars is questionable. That it has rather harmed the fragrance, probably. When I read here, Fars is an ordinary rose oud fragrance, the inner Kinski rages. Oud is indeed a not entirely unimportant note here, but it has more of an embracing effect in the background. Rose and rose geranium are also NOT the same thing olfactorily (damn it, but Klaus is starting to calm down). It's more the rose stem, including the leaves, that's been used up here. I'm pretty sensitive to rose scents - here everything blends smoothly into said whole and it doesn't smell classically rose.
So who are the fragrance stars here? Honestly, it's hard to say. The lavender is definitely present. I'm really not a lavender fan, but it's so elegantly tucked away here. So cooling and pure. I can't detect the stated bergamot separately. To me, Fars is an extremely tight interplay of the cool lavender, a woody rose geranium with a bit of vetiver tangled in it, and a dark, bubbling base. At first glance, this sounds like a contradiction that doesn't necessarily go well together. But with Fars, everything just fits. As if it could be different, but it doesn't need to be. The whole thing comes across extremely smooth and almost airy despite an undeniable heaviness. The scent texture really makes me think of silk. As cheesy as it sounds.
As alluded to above, Fars smells really classy and celebratory. Unlike Jubilation 25, however, Fars doesn't need a baroque palace to come through. Fars practices in understatement and can be worn low dosed certainly well in the work environment. A fragrance for people who appreciate beauty but don't want to tattoo that on their forehead. However, Fars can certainly be disguising due to its luxurious appearance. One of the reasons I wasn't quite sure at first. Fars carries something very pleasantly sophisticated - without being too enamored with his own aesthetic. Attractive and thoroughly sexy. Provided the fragrance suits the demeanor of the wearer. For me, the fragrance is rather masculine, but have also read contrary opinions.
Extremely Arabic Fars does not work on me. In a blind test, I would probably not have been able to categorize him in this way. Which is part of the appeal. Either I know too little in the field of Arabic fragrances (possible) or the marketing does the rest. Fars could also be an Arabic interpretation of a French fragrance house. I understand the reference in principle. When you think of oud, you naturally think of Arabic fragrances. However, the whole making of the fragrance reminds me more of French perfumery. I may be wrong, but that's my impression. The longevity is very good, the sillage finely tuned. Fits simply.
So another fragrance has taken its time. Even if the result was probably already determined at the first encounter. The gentle bonds of habit did not want to allow it, for that it is now all the more beautiful. That's why this hobby is so beautiful: because one's own ideas are always challenged. This is the only way to keep the spirit of discovery alive. In a world of raging Kinskis, delicate rose petals and woody rose stems. Actually not so bad.
I must have had my sample of Fars for over two years. Every few months it comes out of nowhere. The need to seek out Fars again. After the pale memory on which I want to spray again a current impression. Up until now, along with the obvious fascination, there has always been a doubt present as to whether the scent suits me. Slowly, however, I have to admit to myself that I no longer want to escape the spell. The spirit of discovery has triumphed once again. But why is that so?
I've read about comparisons to Jubilation 25 by Amouage. And while the fragrance profiles are really far apart, it makes sense. In both fragrances, the contents are extremely tightly woven. Individual notes are hard to pick out. The famous whole that is more than its parts. There's also the solemnity of demeanor, even if the extroversion is a different one here. And just like the Amouage, something touches me here that I can't quite put into words. That certain je-ne-sais-quoi vibe that every fragrance enthusiast knows from somewhere. That you can't attribute to specific fragrance notes. The sum makes the music here.
Whether Fars really belongs in the family of oud stars is questionable. That it has rather harmed the fragrance, probably. When I read here, Fars is an ordinary rose oud fragrance, the inner Kinski rages. Oud is indeed a not entirely unimportant note here, but it has more of an embracing effect in the background. Rose and rose geranium are also NOT the same thing olfactorily (damn it, but Klaus is starting to calm down). It's more the rose stem, including the leaves, that's been used up here. I'm pretty sensitive to rose scents - here everything blends smoothly into said whole and it doesn't smell classically rose.
So who are the fragrance stars here? Honestly, it's hard to say. The lavender is definitely present. I'm really not a lavender fan, but it's so elegantly tucked away here. So cooling and pure. I can't detect the stated bergamot separately. To me, Fars is an extremely tight interplay of the cool lavender, a woody rose geranium with a bit of vetiver tangled in it, and a dark, bubbling base. At first glance, this sounds like a contradiction that doesn't necessarily go well together. But with Fars, everything just fits. As if it could be different, but it doesn't need to be. The whole thing comes across extremely smooth and almost airy despite an undeniable heaviness. The scent texture really makes me think of silk. As cheesy as it sounds.
As alluded to above, Fars smells really classy and celebratory. Unlike Jubilation 25, however, Fars doesn't need a baroque palace to come through. Fars practices in understatement and can be worn low dosed certainly well in the work environment. A fragrance for people who appreciate beauty but don't want to tattoo that on their forehead. However, Fars can certainly be disguising due to its luxurious appearance. One of the reasons I wasn't quite sure at first. Fars carries something very pleasantly sophisticated - without being too enamored with his own aesthetic. Attractive and thoroughly sexy. Provided the fragrance suits the demeanor of the wearer. For me, the fragrance is rather masculine, but have also read contrary opinions.
Extremely Arabic Fars does not work on me. In a blind test, I would probably not have been able to categorize him in this way. Which is part of the appeal. Either I know too little in the field of Arabic fragrances (possible) or the marketing does the rest. Fars could also be an Arabic interpretation of a French fragrance house. I understand the reference in principle. When you think of oud, you naturally think of Arabic fragrances. However, the whole making of the fragrance reminds me more of French perfumery. I may be wrong, but that's my impression. The longevity is very good, the sillage finely tuned. Fits simply.
So another fragrance has taken its time. Even if the result was probably already determined at the first encounter. The gentle bonds of habit did not want to allow it, for that it is now all the more beautiful. That's why this hobby is so beautiful: because one's own ideas are always challenged. This is the only way to keep the spirit of discovery alive. In a world of raging Kinskis, delicate rose petals and woody rose stems. Actually not so bad.
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Of uncanny scent memories and the shade of the apple trees
There's a mystical, spooky thread running through my perfume days. It comes out of nowhere. There he is apparently waiting for me, while the earth is turning before him and the days go by. When he opens the door to my consciousness, he rings with the self-evidence of a DHL messenger. Then suddenly a scent appears on the cognitive screen that I haven't smelled for months. So I order a sample for a new test, and not infrequently that composition makes it into my collection as a bottle or larger filling. I smelled Promise briefly in a department store last winter. That's it. And now it stands as 10ml travel spray next to my other fragrances. The mystery thread has struck again with full force. No defense.
Promise starts with an apple. Not a sentence that would win any literary awards, but at least it's true. Not a fresh, crunchy apple. Not green and crunchy, not part of Edeka commercials. It had already been lying near the trunk of the apple tree for some time, deep red and in its ripeness well on its way to the apple beyond. But it can still be eaten. Why people experiment with wood varnish near an apple tree, I do not know. But that is the situation - I am only the rapporteur here. This somewhat pungent metallic smell lingers in the background and recedes in intensity as the scent progresses. Just like the apple I mentioned.
The sun has long since retired. There is nothing cheerful, nothing sweet and certainly nothing Tutti Frutti. There are already indications of what will be important later: A dark, heavy carpet of earthy woodiness makes its way through the opening. Wafts of smoke drift through the air on the horizon. Something alcoholic resonates. There could also be a wooden barrel hidden in the immediate vicinity, in which an apple brandy was stored for a long time. Perhaps too long.
The start is in my opinion the most challenging part of Malle's promise. Maybe one reason for the rather restrained reviews here on Parfumo. Objectively speaking, I would have rated them higher - as objectively as one can look at something like that. The complexity of the scent is comparatively limited. Which does not detract from the complexity of the fragrance. In my opinion, the latently fermenting fruitiness of the apple in particular withdraws and makes room for an oud-like impression. The earthiness of patchouli coupled with the dark woody scent of cypriol and the slightly animalistic edge of beaver's horehound are responsible for this. Labdanum lends rather restrained warmth. I think this is a very smart solution. In comparison with Frédéric Malles The Night, 100ml will cost "only" 275 Euros instead of the 1,100 Euros. And the best: I like it much better.
After the aforementioned main development, the dark, smoky, somewhat bitter oud impression remains with a good deal of stamina. I do not perceive the rose components separately. With this fragrance one can expect a good deal of depth. The "fruitiness" resonates as an echo. A certain smokiness remains, but fits in willingly. I perceive the fragrance as very broad, with high volume, almost a little juicy.
The dose makes the poison here. Low doses, perhaps under textile, Promise is well wearable for those who do not feel disguised with it. Primarily in the evening and at night. Cold temperatures are not only welcome here, but part of the job description. My Travel Spray will last a long time thanks to the power and special nature of the fragrance. The application possibilities are limited, but there must also be scents for special moments. Although I am not a great expert when it comes to Arabic scents. But here I have the impression that marketing really goes hand in hand with the product. The fragrance shows edge, leaves the terrain of the western habit and stops.
I like Promise best after the 30-minute mark and I can only recommend to give the fragrance time. Just as the haunting thread gave me time to prepare myself subconsciously. For pome fruit lying in the shade of the apple trees, saying goodbye to our reality. For wood varnish experiments. And to one of the most interesting oud impressions I've seen in a long time.
Promise starts with an apple. Not a sentence that would win any literary awards, but at least it's true. Not a fresh, crunchy apple. Not green and crunchy, not part of Edeka commercials. It had already been lying near the trunk of the apple tree for some time, deep red and in its ripeness well on its way to the apple beyond. But it can still be eaten. Why people experiment with wood varnish near an apple tree, I do not know. But that is the situation - I am only the rapporteur here. This somewhat pungent metallic smell lingers in the background and recedes in intensity as the scent progresses. Just like the apple I mentioned.
The sun has long since retired. There is nothing cheerful, nothing sweet and certainly nothing Tutti Frutti. There are already indications of what will be important later: A dark, heavy carpet of earthy woodiness makes its way through the opening. Wafts of smoke drift through the air on the horizon. Something alcoholic resonates. There could also be a wooden barrel hidden in the immediate vicinity, in which an apple brandy was stored for a long time. Perhaps too long.
The start is in my opinion the most challenging part of Malle's promise. Maybe one reason for the rather restrained reviews here on Parfumo. Objectively speaking, I would have rated them higher - as objectively as one can look at something like that. The complexity of the scent is comparatively limited. Which does not detract from the complexity of the fragrance. In my opinion, the latently fermenting fruitiness of the apple in particular withdraws and makes room for an oud-like impression. The earthiness of patchouli coupled with the dark woody scent of cypriol and the slightly animalistic edge of beaver's horehound are responsible for this. Labdanum lends rather restrained warmth. I think this is a very smart solution. In comparison with Frédéric Malles The Night, 100ml will cost "only" 275 Euros instead of the 1,100 Euros. And the best: I like it much better.
After the aforementioned main development, the dark, smoky, somewhat bitter oud impression remains with a good deal of stamina. I do not perceive the rose components separately. With this fragrance one can expect a good deal of depth. The "fruitiness" resonates as an echo. A certain smokiness remains, but fits in willingly. I perceive the fragrance as very broad, with high volume, almost a little juicy.
The dose makes the poison here. Low doses, perhaps under textile, Promise is well wearable for those who do not feel disguised with it. Primarily in the evening and at night. Cold temperatures are not only welcome here, but part of the job description. My Travel Spray will last a long time thanks to the power and special nature of the fragrance. The application possibilities are limited, but there must also be scents for special moments. Although I am not a great expert when it comes to Arabic scents. But here I have the impression that marketing really goes hand in hand with the product. The fragrance shows edge, leaves the terrain of the western habit and stops.
I like Promise best after the 30-minute mark and I can only recommend to give the fragrance time. Just as the haunting thread gave me time to prepare myself subconsciously. For pome fruit lying in the shade of the apple trees, saying goodbye to our reality. For wood varnish experiments. And to one of the most interesting oud impressions I've seen in a long time.
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From the aroma of sandalwood
A few days ago Vientiane met my olfactory reality for the first time. And since then there is a voice every now and then: "Don't be so irresponsible. There are sandalwood fans outside who don't know what they're missing. Enlighten them. Dare."
80% of pathos and the truth is revealed. This is not intended to be a comprehensive commentary. But I don't want to miss the opportunity (by whom ever?) to inform you about this sandalwood bead.
I first came into contact with sandalwood semi-consciously thanks to my first high-quality perfume creation: Green Irish Tweed. The base had captivated me directly, but it was not easy to decipher. Fresh and not really woody. But also creamy, airy, light and - yes, somehow woody in this context. Later I realized that the sandalwood component plays a very important role. Since then I have been looking for sandalwood scents again and again, but nobody has been able to fascinate me so far.
I came across this brand by chance online. The fact that 100% natural raw materials are used, made me buy two samples directly from the USA. On the other hand this scent was decisive - pure sandalwood I expected, pure sandalwood I got.
I haven't smelled pure sandalwood oil until now, but I could imagine that in perfume form you don't get much closer to the right fabric like here. The rice component fits in extremely organically, as if it were a natural part of the wood. In general everything here smells (logically) natural and really high-quality. Here you get what you expect: The full roar of sandalwood. Milky, not too scratchy sandalwood. Maybe some subtle green nuances, but you have to look for them. Tam Dao and Santal 33 can really pack it in. I do not perceive a great development. The big advantage of this perfume is at the same time its disadvantage: you have to like sandalwood here, because the fun is already very monothematic.
After initial strong enthusiasm, this is the reason why there will be no bottle for me. But as a sandalwood lover, Vientiane should definitely be on the watch list. At least that's my recommendation.
When it comes to durability and silage, I'm not the best person to talk to, as my sense of smell quickly fades out scents (which really amazes me after the tidal waves from samples from the last 2+ years, too bad nose). Furthermore I still haven't understood how to measure sillage myself. It's probably me. This much I can say: I have perceived the scent on me for an above-average amount of time and was surprised by the sandalwood again and again in between. So it seems to work out fine.
So much for that. Quick & Dirty. Those who love sandalwood should try this fragrance. So the voice in my head may now gladly disappear again. Although I only differentiate rudimentarily in the meantime. No matter. The main thing is to smell good. And a sandalwood bomb helps enormously
80% of pathos and the truth is revealed. This is not intended to be a comprehensive commentary. But I don't want to miss the opportunity (by whom ever?) to inform you about this sandalwood bead.
I first came into contact with sandalwood semi-consciously thanks to my first high-quality perfume creation: Green Irish Tweed. The base had captivated me directly, but it was not easy to decipher. Fresh and not really woody. But also creamy, airy, light and - yes, somehow woody in this context. Later I realized that the sandalwood component plays a very important role. Since then I have been looking for sandalwood scents again and again, but nobody has been able to fascinate me so far.
I came across this brand by chance online. The fact that 100% natural raw materials are used, made me buy two samples directly from the USA. On the other hand this scent was decisive - pure sandalwood I expected, pure sandalwood I got.
I haven't smelled pure sandalwood oil until now, but I could imagine that in perfume form you don't get much closer to the right fabric like here. The rice component fits in extremely organically, as if it were a natural part of the wood. In general everything here smells (logically) natural and really high-quality. Here you get what you expect: The full roar of sandalwood. Milky, not too scratchy sandalwood. Maybe some subtle green nuances, but you have to look for them. Tam Dao and Santal 33 can really pack it in. I do not perceive a great development. The big advantage of this perfume is at the same time its disadvantage: you have to like sandalwood here, because the fun is already very monothematic.
After initial strong enthusiasm, this is the reason why there will be no bottle for me. But as a sandalwood lover, Vientiane should definitely be on the watch list. At least that's my recommendation.
When it comes to durability and silage, I'm not the best person to talk to, as my sense of smell quickly fades out scents (which really amazes me after the tidal waves from samples from the last 2+ years, too bad nose). Furthermore I still haven't understood how to measure sillage myself. It's probably me. This much I can say: I have perceived the scent on me for an above-average amount of time and was surprised by the sandalwood again and again in between. So it seems to work out fine.
So much for that. Quick & Dirty. Those who love sandalwood should try this fragrance. So the voice in my head may now gladly disappear again. Although I only differentiate rudimentarily in the meantime. No matter. The main thing is to smell good. And a sandalwood bomb helps enormously
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From the journey to the personal oud scent
In the last few months I have been driven more and more into the world of oud. Far away from being an expert, I could at least get a little closer to the subject. No fragrance genre that would have appealed to me directly as a newcomer 2.5 years ago. But the manifold attributes of the dark wafts of scent, the creativity of nature and the adventurous production of the raw material contributed their part to the restrained fascination.
I deliberately want to limit my collection to a maximum of 20, or even better 15 flacons. That way I keep the overview and don't have to bury fragrances in my head too often, because everyday life is just around the corner with my scythe. Nevertheless, I would like to cover the widest possible range within the scope of my taste. Which of course ensures that fragrances really have to hit the mark so that they get a foundation in my collection.
Now I wanted to find an oud scent for myself. So the first question is, what does oud smell like? I have answered this question with mini-samples of an oud oil and some attars (according to my research the range of scents is very wide, from fruity green to fecal brown). The result: Just because something is precious, I do not have to wear it in its pure form. Too pristine, too much steam under the bonnet, too far away from a perfume I want to wear in public. But: Learned something again.
So what do I expect from my oud perfume? What are the parameters?
- Strong oud focus without much accessories (e.g. rose)
- Authentic impression, powerful, deep, black, very distinctive, without being too animalistic
- Little sweetness
- Must stand out, but also work in a restaurant with non-scented freaks
- Urban-edel - therefore does not evoke pictures of horse stables (matter of taste)
Very animalistic oud scents like Oud Luwak bubble in my perception. I virtually perceive a restless movement when smelling. This should not trigger my oud scent. Rather, it carries the dynamics compressed within itself, suggests its nature, hides it much more in its depth.
In my collection Black Afgano comes closest to this. But the focus here is on the dark resins, the slightly herbaceous smoke, which is surrounded by a liqueur-like sweetness (see fragrance commentary). So far, only Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo was really close to the ideal in the Extrait edition. Looks very authentic and powerful, only the point "urban-noble" is not 100% realized. A bit too much incense stick attitude. At least for me.
The best scent discoveries usually came to me with a supplier called Chance. Beauty often comes when you let go. Same here. A little extra from a fragrance order, 1-drop strong, just enough to roughly capture the scent character. And then there's Roja Dove. In my commentary on Elysium Cologne (which I own and like very much) I have already critically examined the brand's intended luxury attitude. Not out of envy - I'm happy for every person who is professionally successful and doesn't have to worry about money. Even the creator (if he really is, given the large number of new releases) seems likeable and thoroughly charismatic in interviews. But because I think that luxury should speak for itself. I'd better not start with the prices. But I do rate fragrances. And the fragrance can't help it. You don't choose your family. At least that's what I've heard
I had to sniff the quickly emptied sample so often that I gave up at some point: It's okay, Scent-God, I got it. Finally I dared to order a 7.5ml atomiser directly from Roja.
And I must say: This comes very, very close to my wishful thinking about what is unfolding!
The first 30 minutes can be daunting, that should be clear. The fact that I am so enthusiastic as a patchouli denier is like a small miracle. The oud grabs him and makes him his partner in crime, turns him into his Clyde. The patchouli-owd combo is rapidly making its way to the memory, just at the start. With breathtaking speed and pointed concentration. This is what it's all about. Nothing stings, everything is soft and cuddly within the scope of depth and darkness. Only if the patchouli is applied in larger doses, it can initially appear a little harsh. Not in the sense of a synthetic sharpness, it looks soft despite the punch as described. But in the sense of a short overdose. But this will subside - the partners will become equal in the course of time
I hardly notice the floral notes that are often used in Rojas. Which plays right into my hands. It is more modern and oriental here. But in such a way that it is pleasant for a western nose like mine. To be quite honest: All I smell is patchouli, oud and a little oregano. I have to pass on Cypriol and Gurjun balm - I haven't smelled them alone yet. Sometimes benzoin adds warmth.
I don't notice an extremely strong fragrance development after 30 minutes - but I don't have this claim either. After the rapid start, the whole thing catches a bit, becomes calmer and more relaxed. The scent gains dryness, a very pleasant, reserved sweetness is added. The shelf life is very good, the fragrance is very present.
H - The Exclusive Aoud seems to me very stylish, strongly masculine, self-confident and meets the attribute urban-noble bravura. It's not a true solo oud fragrance, but the patchouli blends so pleasantly with the oud and gives it a certain earthiness, which fits the nature of the eaglewood resin, so that a very authentic oud impression is created. This fragrance is a statement and should be worn with self-confidence. Despite its high masculinity and complete absence of freshness, the fragrance has been well received by the non-scented faction so far. Which makes me very happy. So I have to say that my above mentioned parameters have been fulfilled to at least 90%. Which is why I gladly forgive this score.
I don't read a lot about that scent online. Also here on Parfumo there is hardly any talk about H - The Exclusive Aoud. Wrongly, in my opinion. This here is really a fragrance that you have to leave on your skin for a longer period of time. But also nice to discover such a pearl so unexpectedly.
My flight to the oud world is certainly not finished yet. I will still often be surprised and I am looking forward to it. But I am very happy with this truth and I recommend it to everyone who is reflected in my initial words and wants to discover the depths of the oud. A bottle could become a long-term reality for me. I will probably have to make friends with Swarovski crystals.
I deliberately want to limit my collection to a maximum of 20, or even better 15 flacons. That way I keep the overview and don't have to bury fragrances in my head too often, because everyday life is just around the corner with my scythe. Nevertheless, I would like to cover the widest possible range within the scope of my taste. Which of course ensures that fragrances really have to hit the mark so that they get a foundation in my collection.
Now I wanted to find an oud scent for myself. So the first question is, what does oud smell like? I have answered this question with mini-samples of an oud oil and some attars (according to my research the range of scents is very wide, from fruity green to fecal brown). The result: Just because something is precious, I do not have to wear it in its pure form. Too pristine, too much steam under the bonnet, too far away from a perfume I want to wear in public. But: Learned something again.
So what do I expect from my oud perfume? What are the parameters?
- Strong oud focus without much accessories (e.g. rose)
- Authentic impression, powerful, deep, black, very distinctive, without being too animalistic
- Little sweetness
- Must stand out, but also work in a restaurant with non-scented freaks
- Urban-edel - therefore does not evoke pictures of horse stables (matter of taste)
Very animalistic oud scents like Oud Luwak bubble in my perception. I virtually perceive a restless movement when smelling. This should not trigger my oud scent. Rather, it carries the dynamics compressed within itself, suggests its nature, hides it much more in its depth.
In my collection Black Afgano comes closest to this. But the focus here is on the dark resins, the slightly herbaceous smoke, which is surrounded by a liqueur-like sweetness (see fragrance commentary). So far, only Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo was really close to the ideal in the Extrait edition. Looks very authentic and powerful, only the point "urban-noble" is not 100% realized. A bit too much incense stick attitude. At least for me.
The best scent discoveries usually came to me with a supplier called Chance. Beauty often comes when you let go. Same here. A little extra from a fragrance order, 1-drop strong, just enough to roughly capture the scent character. And then there's Roja Dove. In my commentary on Elysium Cologne (which I own and like very much) I have already critically examined the brand's intended luxury attitude. Not out of envy - I'm happy for every person who is professionally successful and doesn't have to worry about money. Even the creator (if he really is, given the large number of new releases) seems likeable and thoroughly charismatic in interviews. But because I think that luxury should speak for itself. I'd better not start with the prices. But I do rate fragrances. And the fragrance can't help it. You don't choose your family. At least that's what I've heard
I had to sniff the quickly emptied sample so often that I gave up at some point: It's okay, Scent-God, I got it. Finally I dared to order a 7.5ml atomiser directly from Roja.
And I must say: This comes very, very close to my wishful thinking about what is unfolding!
The first 30 minutes can be daunting, that should be clear. The fact that I am so enthusiastic as a patchouli denier is like a small miracle. The oud grabs him and makes him his partner in crime, turns him into his Clyde. The patchouli-owd combo is rapidly making its way to the memory, just at the start. With breathtaking speed and pointed concentration. This is what it's all about. Nothing stings, everything is soft and cuddly within the scope of depth and darkness. Only if the patchouli is applied in larger doses, it can initially appear a little harsh. Not in the sense of a synthetic sharpness, it looks soft despite the punch as described. But in the sense of a short overdose. But this will subside - the partners will become equal in the course of time
I hardly notice the floral notes that are often used in Rojas. Which plays right into my hands. It is more modern and oriental here. But in such a way that it is pleasant for a western nose like mine. To be quite honest: All I smell is patchouli, oud and a little oregano. I have to pass on Cypriol and Gurjun balm - I haven't smelled them alone yet. Sometimes benzoin adds warmth.
I don't notice an extremely strong fragrance development after 30 minutes - but I don't have this claim either. After the rapid start, the whole thing catches a bit, becomes calmer and more relaxed. The scent gains dryness, a very pleasant, reserved sweetness is added. The shelf life is very good, the fragrance is very present.
H - The Exclusive Aoud seems to me very stylish, strongly masculine, self-confident and meets the attribute urban-noble bravura. It's not a true solo oud fragrance, but the patchouli blends so pleasantly with the oud and gives it a certain earthiness, which fits the nature of the eaglewood resin, so that a very authentic oud impression is created. This fragrance is a statement and should be worn with self-confidence. Despite its high masculinity and complete absence of freshness, the fragrance has been well received by the non-scented faction so far. Which makes me very happy. So I have to say that my above mentioned parameters have been fulfilled to at least 90%. Which is why I gladly forgive this score.
I don't read a lot about that scent online. Also here on Parfumo there is hardly any talk about H - The Exclusive Aoud. Wrongly, in my opinion. This here is really a fragrance that you have to leave on your skin for a longer period of time. But also nice to discover such a pearl so unexpectedly.
My flight to the oud world is certainly not finished yet. I will still often be surprised and I am looking forward to it. But I am very happy with this truth and I recommend it to everyone who is reflected in my initial words and wants to discover the depths of the oud. A bottle could become a long-term reality for me. I will probably have to make friends with Swarovski crystals.
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From natural scarcity, kitsch blockers & unusual smiles
Don't get corny now. Could be the headline here. Write matter-of-factly, but not dryly. Medium dry. Like the penny wine. Communicate emotion, but remain professional. It's Germany here. It can't be that difficult.
But the scent is soooooo beautiful.
Okay, damn it.
Well, I'll try - as objectively as possible: Imagine a butter-gold sunrise in a country that has the progressiveness of our industry and the level-headedness of the old Zen masters. The fabric of time in our childhood. When the minutes were still pregnant with meaning, to burn themselves into the nostalgia memory. The refreshing warmth of the sun consists of an accumulation of bite-sized citrus fruits that were in the fresh gym before they appeared and are now doing their thing fully charged.
This sun shines into a spacious room and the view flies over the breakfast buffet of a Far Eastern ruler (or ruleress, just shows me). There is more than the citric, which already warmed many countries. There are white-yellow flowers that frame a foreign dessert that reminds of lemon sorbet. From the adjacent kitchens, the fragrance of biscuits, which has just been born, flows gently, but is still present. How gently it wafts through the air. It is the hour of hygiene. This is why the country's creams rise to the surface and add texture to the spectacle. They're sweet.
Since every morning offers a multitude of possibilities (I could spontaneously decide tomorrow morning to become a serious criminal. Crazy, right? But I won't. It's too exhausting for me), the theme of freedom is also built into the scent. Freedom comes to us in the form of the smell of the ocean, which is obviously nearby. Like the dripping sea salt of a creamed, happy body that has just emerged from the water. The saltiness blends into the scenery in a light and floating way. It has an activating effect, bringing up images of dark, glittering bays from times when everyday life was still romping behind the horizon. The country seems far away and yet very near. Perhaps it is not so much in the distance as in the depths. But what does it matter. The sun has now successfully completed its ascent. It shines on my skin and - I dare not say it - makes me smile. And I smile really little.
It couldn't have been more objective. I'm a little ashamed too, but I'm a friend of the truth. The above described takes place in a fraction of a second while perceiving the scent. At least for me. I've seldom wanted to breathe a fragrance so deeply. It euphorizes and clears the airways. Not in the sense of a menthol breath. But in the way you take a deep breath when you open the balcony door for the first time in the day and look out to sea. A deep inhalation that disappears somewhere in the depths of the chest region.
As someone to whom fragrances quickly become feminine (naturally out of subjective taste and not because of toxic masculinity. I just hope now), I have to say that Amber Cologne is really unisex. Universally beautiful, so to speak.
What I find very appealing about Bortnikoff as a brand is the use of the raw materials. On the one hand, we are dealing with a very natural composition (according to my research the fragrance is 90% natural). And while other luxury brands use artificial scarcity to pretend exclusivity, Bortnikoff has chosen quasi natural scarcity. Some of the raw materials are so rare that the fragrances are naturally limited. Other batches of the ingredients would have different characteristics and the balance of the fragrance would no longer be guaranteed. Here we come back to the naturalness of the fragrance. From my point of view, this is an approach that really deserves the predicate luxury. As a result, the fragrances are limited, some of the brand's other perfumes have been relaunched in the past as flankers, so to speak, after being discontinued with a modified formula. The fact that the perfumer himself distils fits the overall impression.
At a price: Amber Cologne is the "cheapest" fragrance of the brand. With 180 Euro on 50ml certainly not a bargain, but I feel the price is justified. At Tom Ford and Creed you often pay more in retail for 50ml, the ingredients will be much cheaper in the shopping. Here, one gets an extremely well-balanced, natural, handmade scent. So from my point of view this is okay.
I still find it generally difficult to judge the durability, as my nose quickly fades out scents. Maybe I should take a scent break, but I need my fabric. And no, I am not an addict. I've got it all under control. Now give me back the bottle. No, I'm not shaking. Okay, back to the matter at hand. The bottle releases a rather small amount of fragrance. With five sprays, my surroundings will perceive me well, at least for the first two hours. After that it withdraws towards the skin, but remains well present, especially for me as a wearer. During the day I get small wafts of fragrance blown into my consciousness again and again. Elegant through and through. Present, but not obtrusive. A little more power would have been great, but it all fits together.
In conclusion, I must say that I am very proud to have managed to create a few sentences after all, which were not drawn through a kitsch color palette. I myself often don't know exactly where a text will lead me. So surprise myself. But the more predictable is the joy that this perfume gives me. A sunrise to spray on. A bliss that warms my heart and makes me feel the bliss of this world... (The kitsch blocker was activated. Please spray yourself with the Amber Cologne to generate valid impressions. The author of the text has been temporarily put into a dream state).
...
____
PS: Since I wanted to avoid the shipping from Thailand, I asked Bortnikoff directly which sources of supply are available in Europe. And I am very, very satisfied with the answer I received. Ecuacion Natural, a niche perfumery based in Malaga. I (unfortunately) don't get any money for it, but I have to give a clear recommendation. Free, extremely fast shipping from 100 Euro purchase value, great packaging and many high quality samples. I did not have this before. Whether the service will always stay like this, I can't promise, of course. But at least it worked out very well for me. A tip for you - as compensation for all the kitsch.
But the scent is soooooo beautiful.
Okay, damn it.
Well, I'll try - as objectively as possible: Imagine a butter-gold sunrise in a country that has the progressiveness of our industry and the level-headedness of the old Zen masters. The fabric of time in our childhood. When the minutes were still pregnant with meaning, to burn themselves into the nostalgia memory. The refreshing warmth of the sun consists of an accumulation of bite-sized citrus fruits that were in the fresh gym before they appeared and are now doing their thing fully charged.
This sun shines into a spacious room and the view flies over the breakfast buffet of a Far Eastern ruler (or ruleress, just shows me). There is more than the citric, which already warmed many countries. There are white-yellow flowers that frame a foreign dessert that reminds of lemon sorbet. From the adjacent kitchens, the fragrance of biscuits, which has just been born, flows gently, but is still present. How gently it wafts through the air. It is the hour of hygiene. This is why the country's creams rise to the surface and add texture to the spectacle. They're sweet.
Since every morning offers a multitude of possibilities (I could spontaneously decide tomorrow morning to become a serious criminal. Crazy, right? But I won't. It's too exhausting for me), the theme of freedom is also built into the scent. Freedom comes to us in the form of the smell of the ocean, which is obviously nearby. Like the dripping sea salt of a creamed, happy body that has just emerged from the water. The saltiness blends into the scenery in a light and floating way. It has an activating effect, bringing up images of dark, glittering bays from times when everyday life was still romping behind the horizon. The country seems far away and yet very near. Perhaps it is not so much in the distance as in the depths. But what does it matter. The sun has now successfully completed its ascent. It shines on my skin and - I dare not say it - makes me smile. And I smile really little.
It couldn't have been more objective. I'm a little ashamed too, but I'm a friend of the truth. The above described takes place in a fraction of a second while perceiving the scent. At least for me. I've seldom wanted to breathe a fragrance so deeply. It euphorizes and clears the airways. Not in the sense of a menthol breath. But in the way you take a deep breath when you open the balcony door for the first time in the day and look out to sea. A deep inhalation that disappears somewhere in the depths of the chest region.
As someone to whom fragrances quickly become feminine (naturally out of subjective taste and not because of toxic masculinity. I just hope now), I have to say that Amber Cologne is really unisex. Universally beautiful, so to speak.
What I find very appealing about Bortnikoff as a brand is the use of the raw materials. On the one hand, we are dealing with a very natural composition (according to my research the fragrance is 90% natural). And while other luxury brands use artificial scarcity to pretend exclusivity, Bortnikoff has chosen quasi natural scarcity. Some of the raw materials are so rare that the fragrances are naturally limited. Other batches of the ingredients would have different characteristics and the balance of the fragrance would no longer be guaranteed. Here we come back to the naturalness of the fragrance. From my point of view, this is an approach that really deserves the predicate luxury. As a result, the fragrances are limited, some of the brand's other perfumes have been relaunched in the past as flankers, so to speak, after being discontinued with a modified formula. The fact that the perfumer himself distils fits the overall impression.
At a price: Amber Cologne is the "cheapest" fragrance of the brand. With 180 Euro on 50ml certainly not a bargain, but I feel the price is justified. At Tom Ford and Creed you often pay more in retail for 50ml, the ingredients will be much cheaper in the shopping. Here, one gets an extremely well-balanced, natural, handmade scent. So from my point of view this is okay.
I still find it generally difficult to judge the durability, as my nose quickly fades out scents. Maybe I should take a scent break, but I need my fabric. And no, I am not an addict. I've got it all under control. Now give me back the bottle. No, I'm not shaking. Okay, back to the matter at hand. The bottle releases a rather small amount of fragrance. With five sprays, my surroundings will perceive me well, at least for the first two hours. After that it withdraws towards the skin, but remains well present, especially for me as a wearer. During the day I get small wafts of fragrance blown into my consciousness again and again. Elegant through and through. Present, but not obtrusive. A little more power would have been great, but it all fits together.
In conclusion, I must say that I am very proud to have managed to create a few sentences after all, which were not drawn through a kitsch color palette. I myself often don't know exactly where a text will lead me. So surprise myself. But the more predictable is the joy that this perfume gives me. A sunrise to spray on. A bliss that warms my heart and makes me feel the bliss of this world... (The kitsch blocker was activated. Please spray yourself with the Amber Cologne to generate valid impressions. The author of the text has been temporarily put into a dream state).
...
____
PS: Since I wanted to avoid the shipping from Thailand, I asked Bortnikoff directly which sources of supply are available in Europe. And I am very, very satisfied with the answer I received. Ecuacion Natural, a niche perfumery based in Malaga. I (unfortunately) don't get any money for it, but I have to give a clear recommendation. Free, extremely fast shipping from 100 Euro purchase value, great packaging and many high quality samples. I did not have this before. Whether the service will always stay like this, I can't promise, of course. But at least it worked out very well for me. A tip for you - as compensation for all the kitsch.
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