Jakoparfum

Jakoparfum

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Jakoparfum 3 years ago 32 5
9
Bottle
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
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The city buried in the sand
Ubar was a city in the Arabian Peninsula, in the region of Oman.
Even today there are archaeological remains of this city, also known as the city of a thousand pillars.
The city became an important center of trading wealth due to the exchange of goods and valuable materials found in it.
Legend has it that Allah, angry with its inhabitants for their lascivious and dissolute behavior, struck the city with a curse and buried it forever in the desert sands.
What remains of Ubar today is an important archaeological center, discovered only in 1992, where you can find the path of the caravans that traveled the magnificent incense route
Amouage produced a perfume in 1995 that embodied the smell of this city, a kind of inspiration for the raw materials that were grown in this city, as well as the magnificent Omani frankincense.
The little-known 1995 version had a slightly different formula than the current one, being woodier, more incense-rich, and literally smelling like hot sand.
The perfume remained on the market for a few years before being discontinued.
In 2009, when Amouage went through a period of great hype and recognition around the world (under the leadership of the great Christopher Chong) . The perfume was remade and then marketed with a different bottle. The fragrance "new" also takes a slightly different smell, it is much more floral and less woody than the original.
This is one of the most complex compositions in the history of Amouage, Those who like simple, straightforward and delicate fragrances will not appreciate this.
In Ubar there is a complexity and layering of notes that have disappeared in recent fragrances.
Is a framework inspired by the great masterpieces of vintage perfumery. Ubar is much more than a "simple" chypre, it is also an oriental floral, a woody fragrance, a monster of infinite beauty, ready to scratch you and enchant you with her seductive allure.
Ubar opening sounds like the breath of Allah, who buried the city under the sand with his curse.
In the first opening phase of Ubar, a note of green, leathery and rough violet is clearly perceptible, accompanied by citrus notes of bitter orange and tangerine.
Immediately after, a powerful lily of the valley emerges, dry and acidic, opening a floral dance of fleshy ylang ylang and jasmine.
The floral heart becomes roaring with a constant battle between the white component (jasmine and tuberose) and a fleshy, round, rich and disruptive ylang ylang.
After about 2 hours, the middle phase allows the base notes to emerge. It is a very strong and complex base, whose outstanding element is the copaiba balsam, which gives the perfume a warm, robust and honeyed note (it rounds out the fragrance even more, together with a tentative hint of vanilla).
Next to the copaiba balsam, the patchouli is clearly perceptible: a "purified" patchouli, fractionated, so to speak, the earthy note is absent and the natural green patchouli note emerges.
The patchouli is accompanied by a beautiful warm and slightly animalic, almost musky amber note, which is rounded off by the note of Mysore sandalwood and oakmoss.
Overall, the perfume has several phases in which the individual notes are not always perceptible, The overall fragrance that is perceived is a floral, musky, amber and woody, a kind of coat of cashmere and flowers with leather applications :)
The fragrance is a work of art of rare beauty, its duration exceeds 6/7 hours.
Its ideal season is spring and summer; at low temperatures, unfortunately, its floral heart does not unfold as it should, and the fragrance fades ( on my skin).
It has slight similarities to Knowing by Estee Lauder (although Ubar is much more floral), Diva by Ungaro and 1000 by Patou (resembles 1000 by Patou in the dry, chypres phase of the fragrance).
It remains a timeless masterpiece, one of the most beautiful, original and artistic perfumes of Amouage.
The review refers to the 2009 version (bottle without magnetic cap).
5 Comments
Jakoparfum 3 years ago 35 9
10
Bottle
10
Sillage
10
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The scent of gold
Chanel's greatest oriental flowers:
Flows of spices (coriander and cloves) under a floral mantle of absolute of rose, mimosa and orange blossom.
On the bottom we find opoponax, which gives a resinous aspect to the perfume, patchouli and civet.
It has similarities with the other great oriental spiced released seven years earlier, Opium YSL.
But in Coco Chanel we find weaker spices than Opium and more pronounced dark florals and a velvety, silky and smoky rose.
An immense masterpiece that bears the signature of Jacques Polge under the direction of genius Karl Lagerfel (recently arrived at the helm of the house in 1983),
It perfectly embodies the scent of gold and the legendary 80s
This is a great masterpiece for all nostalgics of opulent perfumes like me :)
The review refers to the vintage EDP version (1980s).
9 Comments
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