JohnVapiano

JohnVapiano

Reviews
JohnVapiano 3 years ago 12 5
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Mango Sticky Rice - Thai dessert in seductive fragrance form
If there's one scent that has never interested me, it's citrus scents. Not because they smell bad - there are countless beautiful bergamot and orange notes. But because they're stinkers. Citrus and freshness are the epitome of perfume to me, the standard par excellence, THE association that comes to most people's minds when they hear the term "perfume".

I need more! Something special, that certain something. Also for the summer, to meet the coming heat records with a pleasant fragrance.

So what is suitable for the increasingly hot summer weather, if you want to spare his fellow man the brute winter oud, but do not want to resort to lemon and shower gel? Here comes "Kilian - Moonlight in Heaven" into play.

I don't want to say that Kilian is unique to everyone, especially women. In fact, it reminds me of shampoos and body lotions with a mango coconut scent. A scent that one or two here may have noticed on their girlfriend's hair. It has that feminine touch without a doubt. But nevertheless or just because of that: this is not a perfume that you often get to smell, especially not on men. Therefore, this fragrance is for me on women and men equally interesting.

"Moonlight in Heaven" to my nose focuses on the interplay of mango and creamy rice in coconut sauce. No wonder, because Kilian Henessy was inspired by a traditional Thai dessert with the ingredients just mentioned. He was interested in developing an accord that evokes a paradisiacal feeling without relying exclusively on classic citrus freshness. The result is fresh, tropical, exotic, noble - pure summer.

What surprises me above all is the incredible performance. Fresh fragrances have the well-known problem of evanescence - after a few hours at the latest is over. But not "Moonlight in Heaven". I can perceive the fragrance on my skin for hours, it performs and performs and radiates unwaveringly. My recommendation: be sparing with the sprays, you will be noticed!

Unfortunately, many perfumos seem to disagree with me here and find the Kilian to be fleeting. My advice is to give Moonlight in Heaven a fair chance. For all fragrance fans who want to know if their perfume is perceived on them, even if they can't smell it themselves: just spray "Moonlight in Heaven" on another person. Reports gladly, whether the Kilian remains for you just as long perceptible as for me.

And these are Kilian Henessy's own words about his fragrance:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQIrQfVcDRg
5 Comments
JohnVapiano 4 years ago 14 2
8
Longevity
10
Scent
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Straight to the top with a heavenly overdose of rum, cedar & patchouli
Immediately interesting: Straight to Heaven is a fresh fragrance without classic fresh notes such as citrus and shower gel - Kilian Hennessy himself says something similar in a YouTube interview. Here you get an all-rounder fragrance of a special kind that is basically suitable for all seasons. Straight to Heaven isn't necessarily a "Lets Go To The Beach" fragrance, but the rum+gourmand mix does make you feel like having cocktails on the beach.

The fragrance beguiles without any unnecessary complexity: in the same YouTube interview, Kilian Hennessy reveals that Straight to Heaven allegedly consists of only 15 ingredients - a very short list of ingredients in the perfume world. This simplicity calls for an overdose of ingredients: cedarwood and patchouli probably make up 60 percent of the formula. Is that the reason why so many complain that they perceive an unloved note as dominant?

But there are no complaints with me. For me Straight to Heaven is smooth, stylish, sensual, serene, very well-groomed and absolutely pure. The embodiment of Kilian Hennessy's elegant appearance.
Bad Boy/Bad-Ass Scent? Not at all. Sure, there are some Bad Boys who wear this Kilian, but it doesn't fit into the "Bad Boy" fragrance category - it's too soft for that. If you see a disadvantage in it, you can get the necessary dose of Bad-Ass+Rum from John Varvatos Dark Rebel or Kilian Black Phantom.

Three types of fragrance fans must try Straight to Heaven:
1. People who are looking for a fresh fragrance that does not go in the typical shower gel direction.
2. Fans of rum, cedar wood and patchouli. Because there is a lot of that in this Kilian.
3. People who go for the rock stars of the niche world: Reflection Man, PdM Herod, TM Oud Wood and so on. If you like the mix of niche and mass appeal, Straight to Heaven is the right choice. On the other hand, if you want to make people happy with dirty notes, you'd better go for the fragrance twin Tiziana Terenzi Ursa. The animalistic in Straight to Heaven is fully revved up with Ursa. If you're looking for the full buzz of alcohol, you can check out the extreme version of Straight to Heaven.

A fragrance for women too? Unisex? Gender labels are often marketing anyway. It's 2020 - just wear it when you feel comfortable.

Once again I can criticize the packaging of this "luxury" product. I find the packaging of numerous niche fragrances to be deficient: Tom Fords with a crooked label and a barely adhering cap, the underground spray buttons from Tauer, and so on. My Kilian joins the negative list. Looks nice, but the foil on my bottle is crooked. It's no drama, but that's no luxury either. It's not 100%. May I not expect them for 200€ or 250€ retail price?

The interview with Kilian Hennessy and Robin James (english) - from 11:20 it's all about Straight to Heaven:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4osQGdry12g
2 Comments
JohnVapiano 4 years ago 16 1
8
Sillage
10
Longevity
8
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The Hidden Champion of Parfums de Marly
Regularly I discover Layton Exclusif in the lists of forum users and I am happy that the fragrance is on
...appreciation. Nevertheless, Layton Exlusif remains an underdog, standing in the shadow of his older brothers Herod, Layton and co. Herod is the number one men's perfume on Parfumo, Pegasus is at number 91. In the unisex list, Layton Exclusif leads before Layton, but Layton has twice as many ratings.

Herod, Layton and co. are without doubt more popular. This is a pity in so far as Layton Exclusif is an interesting and exciting fragrance, next to which the original Layton seems dull and uninspired. Layton Exclusif combines niche and mass appeal in an interesting and pleasant way. It retains the modern, mass-appropriate and sweet elements of Layton, but adds sophisticated elements. The result is a prime example of a fragrance that can satisfy both niche and designer noses.

I would particularly recommend Layton Exclusif to people who value the quality and uniqueness of the niche world, but at the same time demand suitability for everyday use and are happy to receive positive reactions from their surroundings. This is exactly what Layton Exclusif can offer.
Keep your distance from people who don't like sweet, heavy and modern fragrances or who are looking for a summer scent

Which notes give Layton Exlusif its special dark character? The official website and Parfumo mention guaiac wood, while other forums list civet, coffee and oud. In the commentary below me, almonds are noticed. Some describe Layton Exclusif as extremely woody or oriental, while others perceive oud or animal notes.
As a layman, I'm keeping a low profile here. The only thing I know for sure is that Layton Exclusif smells heavier, darker and more demanding than its older brother.

Durability and silage are great. Layton Exclusif is noticed by fellow men even after hours, without me having to get on their nerves. And this is exactly what I expect from a fragrance - I want to be perceived from a reasonable distance. Especially in these times an understandable wish
1 Comment
JohnVapiano 4 years ago 10 6
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
8
Scent
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No old-fashioned perfume, but a youthful, energetic scent
I can understand the association of Viking with oldschool scents, because I had them myself for a long time.
When I smelled a sample for the first time, I remembered cheap aftershave or perfume that I smelled as a child in the 00s - not a desirable association for me.
So the sample remained in the cupboard for five months. Viking was written off for me

But it came as it often happens, when you deal with a fragrance for a longer time - my impression has been
completely turned to the positive.
I perceive the prelude, which was perceived as old-fashioned a few months ago, as energetic and modern. It smells like soda or cola - maybe this association comes from the combination of lemon, pepper, or other spices that are also contained in cola.
This sensation lasts until the end. Of course Viking doesn't smell like cola, but I can't describe it as old-fashioned and boring for the best of my knowledge.
I can still admit that there is a vibe to oldschool scents, but in my opinion Viking can be worn by anyone. It is a classic Creed all-rounder - wearable in all seasons except the hottest summer days.

To me, Viking is a misunderstood perfume. Aventus is mainly to blame - the footsteps
were just too big.
Another problem is the marketing in question. The qualities that Creed attributes to the Vikings as bold explorers do not overlap with the popular image of the Vikings as primitive barbarians, as we know them from series and films. Viking is not brutal. Masculine yes, self-confident too, but not in the way I would attribute the destructive Hollywood Vikings.
But I can imagine that snobs and rich businessmen (the most affluent clientele of male Creed fragrances) are fully into this "warrior and explorer" marketing.

Nevertheless, Viking is further proof for me that dealing with fragrances always takes time. Meanwhile I never forget a sample, no matter how boring or bad I find it the first time. Every fragrance gets a second, third, fourth chance

Less pleasing is the price.
Prices are one thing - some are willing to pay them, others are not (and can still switch to bottling). Including the price in judging a niche fragrance is difficult - it is a luxury product. However, I would like to say that I would prefer 230 for 100ml, as I do for MI, SMW and GIT
6 Comments
JohnVapiano 4 years ago 11
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
7.5
Scent
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One of the best designers currently on the market
At least if you follow the spirit of the times and like sweet designer fragrances.

I can only join the previous poster and praise the fragrance in the highest tones.
Code Absolu is of course not a gamechanger - it carries the well-known Code DNA within it and joins the ranks of the countless cute designers who are often torn as "synthetic" and "chewing gum". The chewing gum/root beer vibe also bothered me at first - but with each test Absolu convinced me bit by bit and finally converted me to a fan.

What distinguishes the fragrance is its top marks in all areas. It looks as high quality as Dior Homme, but also has an excellent performance. It smells similar to most Bubblegum designers, but has a touch of class and elegance that makes it more interesting and versatile.
Therefore it must not be stamped as a party scent for young people - anyone who likes sweet scents can wear this scent. In any case, it should not be forgotten that designers in the Code Absolu price range are marketed to adults, not to young people with no income.

Ultimately, Code Absolu combines the goodness of different worlds - it is modern, stylish, sensual, long-lasting and has the unmistakable character of the Armani Code DNA. If one compares him with his big brother Profumo, he also appears reserved and calm.

What remains to be said in conclusion?
Armani Code Absolu is, like almost all designers, designed for mass appeal and that's a good thing. The fragrance fulfils the purpose for which it was created - it smells good for the environment.
His mixture of youthfulness and simultaneous maturity give me that certain something that is missing in other Bubblegum designers.

Recommendation to buy? If you like modern cute designers and at the same time expect elegance and strong durability, then YES, ABSOLUTELY.
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