Kohaku

Opens with a crisp peach, much more than the plum for me. The violet adds that oddly comforting note that when combined with patchouli and leather smells just like it does in the book stacks of the library. As a graduate student, I’ve spent so many years in them that it’s a scent I absolutely crave for comfort and concentration. The leather has a bit of smokiness to it; like vintage leather-bound books read for years by candlelight rather than fluorescent fixtures. I’ve not found another fragrance just like it. A pity, I do find Byredo rather overpriced in spite of how much I like this.

This is toothache inducing, cotton-candy frosting covered, jelly-filled pastry. It really is that sweet. I think this is to be enjoyed but not taken seriously. Appropriate for night out or happy hour for certain, but maybe not the office, unless your office is the local pub. This is clean, young fun though, with fabulous lasting power. Plums and maraschino cherries in syrup, what’s not to like here?

This opens with sweet apricot, just a whisper and then it’s gone. The rose and pear together though are sheer beauty! The richest, greenest rose, and a juicy but still kinda tart pear that lasts throughout the fragrance and beyond. The pear is still with me after 7 hours. How is the longevity so good without a traditional base note? A youthful jasmine note is in there somewhere, but I think the tart raspberry is overtaking it, in the best way. One of my spring and summer favorites, and it wears beautifully on a warm night.

My, this unfolds so beautifully! An initial and short-lived whiff of bergamot, then dark berries and tart-ish peach. Ten minutes on, a gentle, powdery iris and vanilla stands up but doesn’t take center stage. Another 15 minutes or so and that gorgeous base of musk, coconut and Tonka makes itself known. Even though the coconut is synthetic, it fits well with the the fruits. Lasting power is average. Still its beautiful and if you can find this, it’s worth buying.

Less in-your-face than BR540, though they clearly share similar DNA. Sunset Riot is a woman wearing a cool leather jacket over a sleek satin gown w/ platform Doc Marten boots. I believe I detect ambroxan in this though it isn’t mentioned here. It adds a bit of refinement to a very sweet fragrance, makes it a bit more grown up but still kind of punk. I consider this BR540's rebellious sister who’s a drummer in three different bands. Sunset Riot definitely stands on its own merit.