Kohaku

I can find nothing to dislike about this. It’s really lovely from start to finish. It lasts all day, and is one that I can smell on myself throughout the day, which is the main reason I wear perfume. Does it reinvent the wheel? Of course not, but does it check all the boxes? A whisper of citruses near the top that knows exactly when to stand down to a rich black currant. A fool-proof heart of tried and true crowd pleasing florals, and naturally, a vanilla/wood/amber base to hold them up. Sì, indeed. Surely there are people of the opinion that this is basic, even boring, but I think disliking this for that reason alone forgets the old adage that says if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. This formula works time and again for a reason, and I for one, quite enjoy a well crafted vanilla.

At first dismissed this one as another BR540 knock off. It feels similar on opening with the strong ambroxan, and the two have similar silhouettes, but in the light you can’t mistake their differences. But given a few minutes it turns into its own signature of sweet, comforting, woodsy rose treat that makes me think of Turkish delight. It’s hard not to like it. It’s not groundbreaking but I quite enjoy it. Longevity is pretty good, 6+ hours before topping up, and lasts days on clothes. It’s quite affordable but has a rather expensive feel to it, making it a good value for money in my opinion. I live in a desert climate where our winter lows rarely get below 40 degrees Fahrenheit and it’s been wearing beautifully, it projects well enough & it leaves a nice sillage. It’s gotten many compliments. I suspect it will wear well in all but the hottest of weather. This is also one that I can smell on myself throughout the day, which is the best thing about a fragrance to me.

I bought both EDP and EDT last year during the summer, luckily managing to capture one of the bottles from a batch before the 2020 reformulation. I wore just a little of the EDT one summer night, and found it's body-lotion like freshness pretty forgettable. I shelved it. It didn't make sense to test a cold weather fragrance in the middle of summer when it might be intolerable. Now that autumn is in full swing, I tried the EDP last night. Again, lotion. Johnson & Johnson's baby lotion, to be specific. It's a scent that has always made me a bit sick and I came close to scrubbing this off. But I stepped outside for a moment and perhaps that was just long enough for this to start to develop. I was able to smell in a pretty linear way the ginger and cardamom, and a creamy gardenia edging from beneath these spices. It is much prettier (and more potent) than I first thought. This fragrance is so strong, it was still with me the next day. The next morning is when I was able to pick up the sandalwood and musk. I would only wear this in very cold weather if ever, as I find it terribly strong and heady. I suspect I’ll give this away after all as I do prefer sweet or floral scents.

While my collection keeps evolving, this one is a constant, my signature that I can't wait to bring out once the leaves start changing and falling. It's a woody, smoky scent that doesn't usually lean too dark, and in the rare cases it does I brighten it up with M by Mariah Carey. I think the spices and woods in Santal Blush layer well with the frankincense in M, and M's marshmallow adds the sweetness to perk this up for day time. This fragrance is perpetually classy and stands out in the best way. I wear this when we go somewhere special, and always feel a bit more confident and classy when I do.

Composed of just a few notes, this is simple but stunning. The shining star is of course rose, and is the scent of a room full of them in full bloom. The opening of this fragrance fills my flat when I spray it. It subsides into something gently peppery and citrusy that as you get whiffs of it throughout the day, recaptures your interest every time. I dislike pepper intensely most of the time, and gregarious citrus often bores me. This is combined so masterfully though that I may need to reconsider this opinion, lest I miss out some other masterpieces. I put this one away except for fall and winter, such is its strength. It makes me a bit sick in the heat. But saved for the right season, this is as another reviewer so aptly said: cool, elegant, and flirty.