Krmarich

Rive Guache was a cultural staple in the 1970s with those trendy commecials on the TV. My mother caught YSL fever and had a bottle in the 1976. Ah yes, every Friday at cocktail time she would don her fur, spray it liberally and it lingered behind. For a few years it was her signature. I was fascinated by its chic character. And it came in a can! Revolutionary! The Designer Imposters followed.

I found a large vintage can last year-indeed its a lifetime supply. It is a cold metal aldehydic rose-jasmine-ylang ylang masterpeice. I would say more than 30 notes or more. It works best in the cold snowy winter as the revolving door of florals drift on the wind. The metallic quality has since vanished from the current market. Just how was that note created? The drydown is reserved. It lasts a nice 16 hours. The can just feels good in your hand.

I tried a smaller refromulated version in 2005. It was not right. Somewhat plastically and wierd. It only becomes authentic during the drydown. This is simply too late in my opinion. I knew something was wrong at YSL. By 2009 when L'Oreal Paris took over, I knew the end had come. Rive Gauche is now discontinued

I was born in 1964 as well, at the crossroads of modern perfume history when Y was introduced. Y was the cornerstone of an empire that would eventually dominate my world. I had an older cousin who lived in Detroit before it collapsed-say 1973. She played David Bowie and Elton John records and wore Y. She was my idol! Enough said. It was forever branded for cool people only. It was massive and unforgettable. Detroit, my cousin and Y have sadly since disappeared.

I found a perfectly preserved vintage spray last year and have rediscovered its majestic power. This epic masterpiece is perhaps the definitive chypre behind Mitsouko and Coty's original. I have described it like Mitsouko on steroids. Why? Perhaps more redolent florals in the composition? It seems so tighly compressed as if it sat in the vat for centuries! Micheal Hy was a genius in his brief career. Calandre and Rive Guache were to follow. I suspect he worked on YSL Pour Hommme.

The opening is indeed incredible. The fruit has an aged fermented quality to it. This particular bottle takes a good six hours or more to work through the florals. Indeed, the brilliance of the chypre is defined here. Time is required for the novice. It can last 24 hours or more depending on the wearer. Expeiencing it in its original form is the only way.

Around 2002, I tried a mini and was heartbroken. Although Y was never as commecially successful as Opium, it had a cult following. Did YSL think no one would notice? The oakmoss and vetiver was gone! It has finally been raised forever at the brutal hands of L'Oreal Paris. Maybe one day it will return? I cannot loose hope. Until then, I apply a drop at a time and mourn as my bottle gets lower...

In 1976, I had a young female art teacher with big glasses, feathered hair and very fashionable clothes with a matching personality. She wore Halston liberally in class and as an end of the year appreciation gift, our class bought her a bottle. It was around $4.99. She taught drawing, yet I learned perfume and how to use my nose.

I discovered a vintage splash this March and found it surprisingly familiar and unisex by todays standards. It is very easy to wear in the spring. In its day, it was outselling Chanel no. 5. Americal culture seemed to be at its halcyon. The 1970 was the green decade with galbanum, oakmoss, vetiver and patcholi in everything. This has oakmoss in every stage. Its pretty green and has all of the classic elements of a chypre-with a heart of rose(yellow/peach variety)and jasmine.

There is a very urban feel to it. Yes, I am sure it permeated Studio 54 between the tobacco smoke and blasting disco mixes. I imagine Halston, Bianca Jagger, Micheal Jackson, Liza Minelli and Jack Haley Jr sitting in a cloud of this, among various other substances. Its beautiful and excessive. If this is your scene, by all means persue a vintage.

A word about the EA Fragrance plane crash-avoid it! Its nothing like the original. Its alcohol, oamoss, disco free, laden with chemicals and offends the original fans. Its a very good example of how far away the "industry" has removed itself from tradition.

This was the first fragrance I remember wearing in 1977. I was only 13 and surprisingly fragrance saavy. This was so urban. Growing up in the 70s let ones character develope freely. Halston ideal for me. I had no clue what was in it. I only knew it was perfect on my young body. I am shocked when others call this "old mens". It was "Teenage Wasteland"! I recognized herbs, spices and woods. Little did I know that oakmoss would be my companion for life, even after the ban in 2000.

I wore it to the roller skating rink, leaving behind my incredible wake, my feathered hair blowing in the breeze! Then I would hang out with friends at the mall. I wore it to see Star Wars. Indeed, wearing it now brings back vivid memories of that age of innocence. I was inspired and empowered. One thing led to another and soon my allowance money was shared between the record store and perfume counter. My botttle lasted until 1984 and I moved on to bigger things.

The vintage I discovered this summer was a splash and everything I remember. EA Fragrance is no friend of mine. The reformulation is peculiar. Its like a ghost of itself. Most of the ingredients are replaced by aromachemicals and the most obvious substitute is the lack of oakmoss, jasmine and sandalwood. Its sort of like Star Wars remastered. I am a purist and refuse changes of this sort. Its tricky but there are some bottles left floating around on e-bay, even cheaper than the imposter.