Kurai
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Bois Solaire
The note list mentions both pistachio and a solar note. Don't be mistaken, though. This is not another "Brazilian Crush Cheirosa '62 | Sol de Janeiro" or some lame sunblock simulator. Jux goes its own way. I'm not even sure I would call this a sunny perfume.
The start is really uplifting and yes sunny, though. Clearly there is a good amount of salicylates brightening the mood here. What follows is a warm, slightly terpenic type of woods. There is this smoky-amber bit hidden in the background at first but it gains in intensity over time. This is where the connection with the only other Liza Witte release "Amalgam A | Liza Witte" becomes obvious. The smoky-ambery accord that forms the heart of Amalgam A returns as a small but clever detail in Jux. With that smoky part a bit of spice comes along as well.
Over time the mood darkens quite a bit. In the end the profile would just as well fit in a fall-winter setting, I think. The way the scent develops over time is fascinating, but I must say I preferred the uplifting character in the opening stage over the later slightly masculine appearance. So that leaves me with a bit of an anti-climax. Others who can appreciate spicy-smoky facets might very well enjoy this, though.
The start is really uplifting and yes sunny, though. Clearly there is a good amount of salicylates brightening the mood here. What follows is a warm, slightly terpenic type of woods. There is this smoky-amber bit hidden in the background at first but it gains in intensity over time. This is where the connection with the only other Liza Witte release "Amalgam A | Liza Witte" becomes obvious. The smoky-ambery accord that forms the heart of Amalgam A returns as a small but clever detail in Jux. With that smoky part a bit of spice comes along as well.
Over time the mood darkens quite a bit. In the end the profile would just as well fit in a fall-winter setting, I think. The way the scent develops over time is fascinating, but I must say I preferred the uplifting character in the opening stage over the later slightly masculine appearance. So that leaves me with a bit of an anti-climax. Others who can appreciate spicy-smoky facets might very well enjoy this, though.
Hand rolled in Amsterdam
Liza Witte's fragrances come in a cardboard wrapper. Hand made in every way, which is nice. It adds a bit of indie flavour. Plus it is a Dutch house that combines design with body care products, so we are off to a great start.
Amalgam A is not the most alluring name for a perfume, but I guess it refers somehow to the typical 'golden glow' of amber. Because this is in fact a full-on amber perfume. It starts with a certain cognac-like scent that keeps me in a chokehold for a while, but that gets sorted out along the way. When it all settles down, the amber remains with some faint woody and sugary notes on the side. And lots of smoke, cold smoke.
Apart from the boozy opening the perfume wears light and it is pretty wearable for an indie brand. I guess it shows that she is a product designer and has eye for functionality as well as creativity.
Amalgam A is not the most alluring name for a perfume, but I guess it refers somehow to the typical 'golden glow' of amber. Because this is in fact a full-on amber perfume. It starts with a certain cognac-like scent that keeps me in a chokehold for a while, but that gets sorted out along the way. When it all settles down, the amber remains with some faint woody and sugary notes on the side. And lots of smoke, cold smoke.
Apart from the boozy opening the perfume wears light and it is pretty wearable for an indie brand. I guess it shows that she is a product designer and has eye for functionality as well as creativity.
Not Pierre
His name is Pierre, from Africa. He has quite a reputation. Today I finally met him, after hearing all these legendary stories. For a moment I thought we were going to be buddies. But after a while of close interaction, he got on my nerves. I mean he got all rubbery on me and I hate that. Plus he got saffron, he is full of it. Turns out he is not quite the guy I thought he was. Not my Pierre.
Unforgettable
The market for discontinued gems is a whole different world than the luxury boutiques offering the latest hypes. Vintage perfume conventions, shady Souk interactions, online exchange groups. While for some all that is an inseparable part of the perfumed journey, for me it is too much of a hassle. For Oudh Infini I made an exception, though, and I could not be more excited when I finally found a full bottle on offer. This has a legendary status in some circles. For good reasons, if you ask me.
The oud of choice is bold as hell, to say the least. It introduces itself with quite the dramatic entrance and as it warms up on skin becomes increasingly manure-like. At the same time there is a huge floral side to the perfume even during that overwhelming first phase. Both the oud and the musks boost those florals - rose particularly - to incredible levels. Ultimately, when the oud has settled into a more polished shimmer, a magnificent sandalwood note emerges adding the necessary warmth and softness into the composition.
The oud plays a significant role but only to bring out the best of the rose. On me this is a full-on floral perfume. A statement piece that is both daring and dramatic, leaving an unforgettable impression. Absolutely worth the scavenger hunt.
The oud of choice is bold as hell, to say the least. It introduces itself with quite the dramatic entrance and as it warms up on skin becomes increasingly manure-like. At the same time there is a huge floral side to the perfume even during that overwhelming first phase. Both the oud and the musks boost those florals - rose particularly - to incredible levels. Ultimately, when the oud has settled into a more polished shimmer, a magnificent sandalwood note emerges adding the necessary warmth and softness into the composition.
The oud plays a significant role but only to bring out the best of the rose. On me this is a full-on floral perfume. A statement piece that is both daring and dramatic, leaving an unforgettable impression. Absolutely worth the scavenger hunt.
Cocoa powder and lilac
Oooh what a surprise! I was so not expecting this. With lilac as a theme, my mind was set for delicate pastel-tinted scents like "En Passant | Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle" and the beautiful "Collection Héritage - Vacances (2015) | Jean Patou". This is nothing like that at all.
Lilac Love starts with some powdery florals thickened with a mixture of amber, tonka and vanilla. This settles into a half gourmand half floral-amber profile, where the cocoa -to my nose- is the dominant note in the first phase, while the lilac starts to really bloom in the drydown. It seems lilac fits surprisingly well in a full-bodied winter fragrance. In the end the profile is quite common given nowadays trends of semi-gourmands and abundant use of cocoa powder. On the other hand, the note clarity in the top/mid and the solid amber base create a sense of quality and comfort that elevates this above the average high-street genre.
To me the best part is the opening, where the top notes are heavy and kind of all over the place but still manage to gently click into place. The scent profile down the road is not exactly unique but really comfortable nonetheless.
Lilac Love starts with some powdery florals thickened with a mixture of amber, tonka and vanilla. This settles into a half gourmand half floral-amber profile, where the cocoa -to my nose- is the dominant note in the first phase, while the lilac starts to really bloom in the drydown. It seems lilac fits surprisingly well in a full-bodied winter fragrance. In the end the profile is quite common given nowadays trends of semi-gourmands and abundant use of cocoa powder. On the other hand, the note clarity in the top/mid and the solid amber base create a sense of quality and comfort that elevates this above the average high-street genre.
To me the best part is the opening, where the top notes are heavy and kind of all over the place but still manage to gently click into place. The scent profile down the road is not exactly unique but really comfortable nonetheless.